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The Official Pioneer 9G non-Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 45

post #1321 of 14720
6/22/08 at 3:10pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by kurochickensoup View Post

Does anyone else notice an unusual amount of blank space between the actual lit up screen and the bezel? That small part between the screen and the bezel that stays blank seems to be larger than my old 6010 on the new 6020 and also there is more on the right side than the left. Does anyone else notice this?

I just took a look at mine and I see exactly what you are talking about.
Mine is the same way. The blank space is larger on the right than the left. This throws the centering of the TV off by 1/8 inch.
I had to measure just to notice it so its is no big deal at all to me.
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post #1322 of 14720
6/22/08 at 3:15pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by spongebob View Post

Darn, you said you're already taken?


bob

I was thining the same thing!

Could you imagine going on a date with a girl and then she looks at you and says "would you like to come inside?". Then you say yes and walk into her living room and see a shiny new Pioneer Kuro sitting there. I would probably drop to a knee and propose right then and there.
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post #1323 of 14720
6/22/08 at 5:00pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nambit View Post

Wow! That first city shot without the car is more convincing than anything
else! The detail in that scene is insane considering the limited amount of
white the city lights provide! Usually the whites appear muted on a shot like
that on my previous Pro-150FD! I'm starting to understand where D-Nice is
coming from when he's saying the 6020 is better than the elite for the blacks
and overall pop.

If the image is anything like that... wow. I did get to see the 151FD in action while passing by Best Buy. Heh, I am not so impressed anymore by flat screens but I know its really the only one worth checking out.

The menu system is SO MUCH better now. It looks really nifty. The controller layout is really.. detailed. I did the black level check by doing the stupid little 'cover your eyes' thing. It looked extremely.. extremely dark. Barely any visible residue of light.

I still know in a complete dark room there will be a remnant glow, just how much is still up in the air. I need to see this in the dark.

Overall it looks very similar to previous Kuro at Best Buy Magnolia lighting. Only by doing the 'cover the eye' thing was I able to notice there is a black level decrease.

Still waiting on 10g or beyond if necessary.
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post #1324 of 14720
6/22/08 at 5:10pm
I'm considering the 6020 and I have a few questions:

1) My family room niche is 59"w x 78"h x 24"d, and it's 18" from the ground. The 6020's width--57 11/16", according to the Pioneer specs--is the concern. Do I need more than .5" clearance on each side? Any other considerations for the 6020 in that size niche? I plan to put the 6020 on a @24" stand in the niche.

2) Is that "KURO" label/decal on the upper right of the frame easily removable? Please say yes.

3) Does the 6020 swivel on its pedestal?

Thanks for any help.

- Tom
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post #1325 of 14720
6/22/08 at 5:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Penman View Post

I'm considering the 6020 and I have a few questions:

1) My family room niche is 59"w x 78"h x 24"d, and it's 18" from the ground. The 6020's width--57 11/16", according to the Pioneer specs--is the concern. Do I need more than .5" clearance on each side? Any other considerations for the 6020 in that size niche? I plan to put the 6020 on a @24" stand in the niche.

2) Is that "KURO" label/decal on the upper right of the frame easily removable? Please say yes.

3) Does the 6020 swivel on its pedestal?

Thanks for any help.

- Tom

1. space on top is more important than on the sides.

2. yes

3. no
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post #1326 of 14720
6/22/08 at 5:41pm
Here are some suggestions from the manual: 2.1.1 Check the Location for Suitability
When choosing the location for your panel, there are several factors you need to keep in mind. The installation
site should be out of direct sunlight and have sufficient ventilation around the flat panel TV to allow cooling.
For more installation information, refer to the following bullet points:
• Confirm that panel vents are not partially obstructed or completely blocked.
• Use a vacuum cleaner set to its lowest suction setting to clean dusty vents.
• Distance the panel from the wall, other equipment, etc. (for minimum space requirements, refer to “2.1.1
Check the Location for Suitability”).
• Do not fit the unit inside of narrow spaces where ventilation is poor.
• Do not drape, seat, or enclose the panel in any material including blankets, loose cloth, or carpeting as this
could block the panel vents.
• Use a proper mount or stand rather than leaning the panel against a wall or other support.
For a copy of the manual:http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...0FD.Kuro?tab=D
Ralph
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post #1327 of 14720
6/22/08 at 5:42pm
By the way, yes the Kuro emblem easily peels off.

Ralph
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post #1328 of 14720
6/22/08 at 5:45pm
Sorry, but the stand does not swivel.

This, IMHO, is a truly excellent display that will not disappoint!!

Ralph
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post #1329 of 14720
6/22/08 at 5:46pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by minerat View Post

Is anyone else having issues with input from a PC?

I've found the 5020 extremely touchy for PC input. I've set the output to HDTV 1080p in the nvidia control panel and about half the time it won't display. If I change to 720p, but don't accept the change and let it fall back to previous resolution, sometimes it'll suddenly come up on the tv. Or when I've got it running and reboot, it drops the signal (low res on bios screen) and doesn't pick it back up when I get into windows. I have to spend 20min each time fiddling with settings, changing resolutions, etc. It's much more of a pain in the ass because I only have one output.

Ugh, just read manual - it doesn't support DVI from the PC w/ DVI-HDMI. It displayed a couple times, but I guess it was just a fluke.
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post #1330 of 14720
6/22/08 at 6:10pm
minerat,
Have you tried other cables? Maybe a 1.3 HDMI cable with a DVI to HDMI adapter. What

kind of video card are you using? Some are picky with the HDCP handshaking etc. I

would try a different cable first. I tried to find something in the manual, but could not. I

think I read in forums of other people having good luck running their computer through

the HDMI connections. Will try to research this and get back. I am currently running the

break-in disk, so I cannot experiment till tueday evening. Good luck and keep us posted.

Ralph
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post #1331 of 14720
6/22/08 at 6:16pm
I'm using a 1.3 cable with an evga 7900GT w/ WinXP. It's displayed a handful of times, but each time is mysterious. I ONCE got the nvidia control panel to detect it as a PIONEER-TV, but after that, no luck.
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post #1332 of 14720
6/22/08 at 6:31pm
Thanks, all, for the answers. I've downloaded the manual. I've some experience with home theater (2 projectors in a dedicated room), but this is my first flat-screen purchase, and it's for the family room.

The quality of the 6020 is established. For me, it's now a question of how exactly I (and one other adult male) will maneuver the set into the niche with less than .5" room on each side.

Btw, if you mount your flat panel or have little clearance, how much hassle is it to change cables when you change equipment (say, remove an HD-DVD player to connect a Blu-ray)?

Thanks again.

- Tom
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post #1333 of 14720
6/22/08 at 6:40pm
Penman

Buy , connect and label a few hdmi and a component cable before placing the panel in the niche.
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post #1334 of 14720
6/22/08 at 6:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Penman View Post


Btw, if you mount your flat panel or have little clearance, how much hassle is it to change cables when you change equipment (say, remove an HD-DVD player to connect a Blu-ray)?

Thanks again.

- Tom

I plan on feeding all the necessary cables through my drywall before I mount the panel on the wall. Every possible HDMI, Component, Ethernet, etc. cable will be connected to the panel inputs and clearly labeled as they come out of the bottom of the wall.

I'm hoping this will minimize the hassle in the future.
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post #1335 of 14720
6/22/08 at 6:49pm
minerat

The first thing you should do is update the drivers for your video card. Secondly, make

sure the output on the nvidia control panel matches the input on the HDMI port you

choose to use on the display for the PC. These simple steps may work. Hope so.

Ralph
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post #1336 of 14720
6/22/08 at 7:38pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ylnad123 View Post

I have the 8300 set at 1080i and 720p. It is able to choose which one to use by what the certain channel sends to it. This to me works best, because if I set it to just 720p or just 1080i some hd channels look worst.

I added in the 720p mode today and having the TV change and flash into that mode drove me up a wall. It's not a big enough quality improvement for me to keep it that way. So, I changed it back to 1080i only.
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post #1337 of 14720
6/22/08 at 7:40pm
For those that are interested, I have now had the opportunity to test many blu ray rips:

1) MPEG2 blu ray rip using dolby digital audio-all is well
2) MPEG2 blu ray rip using DTS audio-video but no audio
3) AVC blu ray rip using dolby digital audio-video and audio studders
4) VC-1 blu ray rip using dolby digital audio-video and audio studders

So, bottom line was what I expected- MPEG2 streams fine, but the newer HD codecs have problems. I will have to continue using my Tvix 6500 and PS3 for streaming blu ray files.

P.S My overall reaction to the 5020 is very postive. I am very impressed with the black levels (which I should be), and the picture quality in general is what should be expected from Pioneer. I had a 4360 model before and the major difference is of course the amazing black levels. Aside from the black levels, I would say that the picture quality is "slightly" better than my 4360. I can't wait to test out the blacks when I play some PS3 games tomm. (Lego Star Wars and Transformers, which both involve alot of dark scene graphics).
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post #1338 of 14720
6/22/08 at 7:56pm
Ah! Perfect solution: Plug in every cable possible to the panel, label them, be done with it.

It's really great to not have to reinvent the wheel on this stuff. Thanks, guys.

- Tom
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post #1339 of 14720
6/22/08 at 9:22pm
I've been toying with the Power Saver, and cannot notice any difference in brightness or otherwise when switching between "Off" and "Mode 2." Am I missing something? When you're on the Power Saver screen and you toggle between the options, is the "preview" screen supposed to change? Even when I return to the full-screen view after toggling between Power Saver options, I see no changes.

On the other hand, when I swapping between pictures modes (e.g. Optimum vs. movie. vs. dynamic), i see drastic differences. Also, when I'm toggling the "Brightness" adjuster, I see big differences for even small changes (as in between -1 to +1).

But, I can't see any change when swapping the power adjuster. I'm thinking that I should just watch it on Mode 2 since then i don't have to deal with the horrific buzzing....am i missing something? are there some scenes in which Power Off makes a difference?
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post #1340 of 14720
6/22/08 at 10:10pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by spongebob View Post

Actually, when the 750U came out, ken Ross had a link to a calibrated shootout that had (at the time) the Panny the clear winner, especially in color accuracy (vs an Elite or a pro, don't remember) bob

bob i could be wrong but i think that review compared the 750u to a 7g fhd1 pioneer. the reviewer later tested a new 8G and found it to be much better the the 750u he had tested previously.

the fhd1 was a good panel but the new Kuro 8G and now the 9G are much improved.
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post #1341 of 14720
6/22/08 at 10:44pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by dssturbo1 View Post

bob i could be wrong but i think that review compared the 750u to a 7g fhd1 pioneer. the reviewer later tested a new 8G and found it to be much better the the 750u he had tested previously.

the fhd1 was a good panel but the new Kuro 8G and now the 9G are much improved.

Yeah, it's been a while, huh? LOL.

I remember the comment on how the tail lights in Fast & Furious looked like real red on the Panny and reddish orange on the Pio. This was post calibration. But, like you said, that was a few generations ago!


bob
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post #1342 of 14720
6/22/08 at 11:06pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnybrulez View Post

Overall it looks very similar to previous Kuro at Best Buy Magnolia lighting. Only by doing the 'cover the eye' thing was I able to notice there is a black level decrease.

Still waiting on 10g or beyond if necessary.


I'm curious as well but from the reports the black is MUCH improved over the 8G. Dnice has said "infinite", well almost, i believe him. Besides, don't you use a bias light, you would think you would need absolute darkness to really benefit from the better ratio. I also wonder if the 10g really will be better than the 9G. And what will the price be on the razor thin tv. AND it will be panny glass, might be a good thing though if it buzzes less.
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post #1343 of 14720
6/23/08 at 5:57am
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnylighton View Post

The answer is obvious. D-Nice knows the Panasonic is better and he's busy with a thesaurus trying to find complementary words for the Pioneer such as "tantamount" and "practically" so that the Pioneer executives don't jump off the roof of their building when they read his review.

As an owner of three Panny plasmas over the the last four years I'll be the first to say they make a great panel. Yet as the owner of a Pioneer for less than two weeks I'll tell you that the Kuro is outstanding, it's processing ability alone makes my Pannys look poor. My advise to anyone happy with their Pannys, don't buy a Kuro because there's no going back.
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post #1344 of 14720
6/23/08 at 5:58am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dobeman View Post

For those that are interested, I have now had the opportunity to test many blu ray rips:

1) MPEG2 blu ray rip using dolby digital audio-all is well
2) MPEG2 blu ray rip using DTS audio-video but no audio
3) AVC blu ray rip using dolby digital audio-video and audio studders
4) VC-1 blu ray rip using dolby digital audio-video and audio studders

So, bottom line was what I expected- MPEG2 streams fine, but the newer HD codecs have problems. I will have to continue using my Tvix 6500 and PS3 for streaming blu ray files.

P.S My overall reaction to the 5020 is very postive. I am very impressed with the black levels (which I should be), and the picture quality in general is what should be expected from Pioneer. I had a 4360 model before and the major difference is of course the amazing black levels. Aside from the black levels, I would say that the picture quality is "slightly" better than my 4360. I can't wait to test out the blacks when I play some PS3 games tomm. (Lego Star Wars and Transformers, which both involve alot of dark scene graphics).

What did you use to process the ripped the Blu-rays (other than AnyDVD to get the raw file to the computer)?

What program are you using to run the DLNA server from your computer?

Did you try any AVI files?
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post #1345 of 14720
6/23/08 at 6:04am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Penman View Post

Thanks, all, for the answers. I've downloaded the manual. I've some experience with home theater (2 projectors in a dedicated room), but this is my first flat-screen purchase, and it's for the family room.

The quality of the 6020 is established. For me, it's now a question of how exactly I (and one other adult male) will maneuver the set into the niche with less than .5" room on each side.

Btw, if you mount your flat panel or have little clearance, how much hassle is it to change cables when you change equipment (say, remove an HD-DVD player to connect a Blu-ray)?

Thanks again.

- Tom

I used the Peerless 670 flat wall mount and did use the spacers included. I can actually change out cables as needed. I drilled a hole about 2 inches in diameter that is located behind the bottom, right-hand corner of the panel where I run my cables. I hung the 6020 and then was able to connect cables for power, 2 HDMI, coaxial antenna, component, L&R audio, and Toslink out. There is just barely enough space to work with, which is fine with me as I wanted the plasma to be as close to the wall as possible with the flexibility of changing cables as needed. Hope that helps!
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post #1346 of 14720
6/23/08 at 6:20am
Quote:
Originally Posted by KNace View Post

I added in the 720p mode today and having the TV change and flash into that mode drove me up a wall. It's not a big enough quality improvement for me to keep it that way. So, I changed it back to 1080i only.

KNace,

Are you connecting via component or HDMI? I originally thought I'd run HDMI from my SA 8300HD cable box to my AVR, and then HDMI from AVR to the Kuro. However, according to Robert from Value Electronics this isn't the way to do it.

According to this post and this one he recommends using component to hook up the cable box.

I'm still not exactly sure how the connection flows, however. I assume component out from the STB to component in on the AVR...then component out from the AVR to component in on the TV? Like you, I'm also not sure what's best to feed the Kuro beyond that...480i, 720p, etc.???

Anyone that's done the above care to comment?
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post #1347 of 14720
6/23/08 at 6:22am
Quote:
Originally Posted by DAMAC View Post

I used the Peerless 670 flat wall mount and did use the spacers included. I can actually change out cables as needed. I drilled a hole about 2 inches in diameter that is located behind the bottom, right-hand corner of the panel where I run my cables. I hung the 6020 and then was able to connect cables for power, 2 HDMI, coaxial antenna, component, L&R audio, and Toslink out. There is just barely enough space to work with, which is fine with me as I wanted the plasma to be as close to the wall as possible with the flexibility of changing cables as needed. Hope that helps!

By the way, congratulations, Daddy!
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post #1348 of 14720
6/23/08 at 6:54am
Quote:
Originally Posted by coursey View Post

minerat

The first thing you should do is update the drivers for your video card. Secondly, make

sure the output on the nvidia control panel matches the input on the HDMI port you

choose to use on the display for the PC. These simple steps may work. Hope so.

Ralph

No luck - the television doesn't even show up in windows as a secondary monitor (forgot I had two dvi ports). The only times it's worked is when i've swapped connections at the PC, even then it wasn't consistent - often times mostly when it was changing resolutions, THEN the tv would pick up the change.
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post #1349 of 14720
6/23/08 at 7:49am
Quote:
Originally Posted by billybob0405 View Post

By the way, congratulations, Daddy!


Thanks! I have a little girl at home that is 3 1/2 months old (our first). She definately limits the viewing hours on the Kuro (I've watched it for about 7-8 hours in the 2 weeks I've had it), but she is definately worth it!
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post #1350 of 14720
6/23/08 at 8:05am
Quote:
Originally Posted by DAMAC View Post

What did you use to process the ripped the Blu-rays (other than AnyDVD to get the raw file to the computer)?

What program are you using to run the DLNA server from your computer?

Did you try any AVI files?

Other than AnyDvd I used Tsremux to obtain just the video stream and the dolby audio stream. I did not try any AVI files-I don't have any. And I use Tversity as my DLNA server.
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