The Official Pioneer 9G non-Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 441

Originally Posted by Eddy13

can anyone help.

Originally Posted by Eddy13

wouldnt it make sense to adjust to rgb full or no

Originally Posted by 4yanx

As posted earlier, I bought a 6020 last week. It is doing the break-in thing. This weekend, I plan to install the dedicated service line and I have some high-grade 20A outlets and a couple cords with 20A ends from an audio system. Will this TV handle 20amp service and, if so, also benefit from using a 20A cord?

Also, if someone can recommend a calibration expert for this particular set who services the Bay Area (California), I'd appreciate a heads up. Here, or via PM. Thanks.

Originally Posted by wrinklefree

I spent the last few days playing around with some of the RS232 commands listed in the service manual. Anyone with a straight through serial cable and hyperterminal can use them. Disclosure: Please don't play around with these commands unless you know exactly what you're doing, especially those which are entered in the SM.

Some I found interesting include the different picture modes shown below which actually CAN be selected in and outside of the SM, but of course none of the changes stick once the panel is turned off. For instance open a hyperterminal session and type: pavs06 and the tv switches to Pure mode. Alternatively pavs08 changes to a bright ISFday. Interestingly if you hit display on the remote it still shows "Movie" but you can actually go into the settings and alter this quasi ISF-day PQ setting. Of course turning the TV off and back on reverts to settings stored in NVram.





BTW none of this information is new, as D-nice played with these settings last year. Nevertheless I found a few interesting tidbits about what could potentially make the NE different then the Elite, and here's what I found.

1. The panels are virtually identical, as just about all of the assembly's (main, x, y, sensor) share the exact same part numbers.

2. Typically electronic devices are set for a model and region when it leaves the plant, usually somewhere in the service menu that determines which features to activate, such as PAL mode. Issuing the QSE command shoots off this information in cryptic code but there's nowhere in the SM that tells you how to set the model and region, for obvious reasons. There are some values in the SM that the manual describes as "reserved" with a cryptic outputs of "****". Not sure if these values are being hidden purposely, or I'm barking up the wrong tree.

3. There's an adjustable identification resistor on the the X drv assy that identifies the model to the sensor assy but it's unclear if the distinction is 50 vs 60 inch or NE vs elite. The part number of the x assy is: AWV2546 which pioneer parts says works for both the 5020FD and Pro-111. Again I could be barking up the wrong tree. The ID resistor has to match the software build of the unit or else it will throw an error code. Even though the FW updates are technically the same file, that doesn't mean both units extract the same pieces from it during the update. The SM info page lists the software version. It'd be interesting to know if the builds are the same.

4. Serial numbers can be manually entered in the SM. Perhaps changing the SN an elite range might do something? hmmm


Besides that the manual states there's 4 white balance tables within the display adjustable by switching whats called the raster mask. a 60hz, 50hz and 72hz and 75hz. Go figure.


Boy I wish I had a cracked 5020FD to play with.

Originally Posted by D-Nice

You're welcome

Originally Posted by hodges69

recommendations anyone? Just had my 5020 FS delivered from best buy....
looks fantastic BTW.....however,best buy uses stickers on the bezel(2,one on the bottom left...other on the bottom right)I am having a devil of a time getting the stickum off the bezel...I used alcohol and it helped..but did not do a thorough job...Not wanting to damage the bezel with goo-gone or something like that...is there any cleaning product you can recommend to me?
Thanks

Originally Posted by TheFactor

So when are you going to be in Oregon ?

Originally Posted by smeg36

Had the same thing on my display 5020. I used a small drop of Oops from goo gone on a paper towel, then rubbed the residue left. It took it right off. You have to be very careful though, it could also remove the paint if you use too much or rub too hard.

Originally Posted by tony9


a 'lil WD40

Originally Posted by bill288

Had my 500m calibrated this past sunday by D-Nice ...

Originally Posted by D-Nice

When I have 7 additional people sign up for a tour (it doesn't matter what type of display they have)

Originally Posted by D-Nice

• RGB Gamma
• Color point modification (RGB only)
• Colorspace selection
• A/V modes ISF Day/Night/Auto, Pure, User
• Color temps High, Mid-High, Mid, Mid-Low, Low
• Brightness limitation

are all listed in the SM. The trick is getting them to stay active after you exit the SM. JimP is correct as you can REALLY screw things up in the SM....especially this one.

Originally Posted by wrinklefree

I spent the last few days playing around with some of the RS232 commands listed in the service manual. Anyone with a straight through serial cable and hyperterminal can use them. Disclosure: Please don't play around with these commands unless you know exactly what you're doing, especially those which are entered in the SM.

Some I found interesting include the different picture modes shown below which actually CAN be selected in and outside of the SM, but of course none of the changes stick once the panel is turned off. For instance open a hyperterminal session and type: pavs06 and the tv switches to Pure mode. Alternatively pavs08 changes to a bright ISFday. Interestingly if you hit display on the remote it still shows "Movie" but you can actually go into the settings and alter this quasi ISF-day PQ setting. Of course turning the TV off and back on reverts to settings stored in NVram.





BTW none of this information is new, as D-nice played with these settings last year. Nevertheless I found a few interesting tidbits about what could potentially make the NE different then the Elite, and here's what I found.

1. The panels are virtually identical, as just about all of the assembly's (main, x, y, sensor) share the exact same part numbers.

2. Typically electronic devices are set for a model and region when it leaves the plant, usually somewhere in the service menu that determines which features to activate, such as PAL mode. Issuing the QSE command shoots off this information in cryptic code but there's nowhere in the SM that tells you how to set the model and region, for obvious reasons. There are some values in the SM that the manual describes as "reserved" with a cryptic outputs of "****". Not sure if these values are being hidden purposely, or I'm barking up the wrong tree.

3. There's an adjustable identification resistor on the the X drv assy that identifies the model to the sensor assy but it's unclear if the distinction is 50 vs 60 inch or NE vs elite. The part number of the x assy is: AWV2546 which pioneer parts says works for both the 5020FD and Pro-111. Again I could be barking up the wrong tree. The ID resistor has to match the software build of the unit or else it will throw an error code. Even though the FW updates are technically the same file, that doesn't mean both units extract the same pieces from it during the update. The SM info page lists the software version. It'd be interesting to know if the builds are the same.

4. Serial numbers can be manually entered in the SM. Perhaps changing the SN an elite range might do something? hmmm


Besides that the manual states there's 4 white balance tables within the display adjustable by switching whats called the raster mask. a 60hz, 50hz and 72hz and 75hz. Go figure.


Boy I wish I had a cracked 5020FD to play with.

Originally Posted by Dominus

SO EXCITED

I went into my local BB this evening and sitting in the middle of the floor in the Magnolia section was a brand new, boxed Kuro 6020FD with a clearance tag on it.

I have been in the market for a new HDTV for a few years now and as we all know, nothing touches these panels. Should I pull the trigger? I wanted a new entertainment center for this bad boy but the interior designer is coming tomorrow to rid me of this gargantuan 4:3 entertainment center etc so it will be a few months before I can set it up.

Buy or wait? The price, well, just under 4.

Cheers!

Originally Posted by ryanhugh

the 6020FD is an amazing set! Did you try to talk them down at all? I got mine NIB for under 3 just a month and a half ago. I'd go in there and make them an offer....

Originally Posted by Dominus

SO EXCITED

I went into my local BB this evening and sitting in the middle of the floor in the Magnolia section was a brand new, boxed Kuro 6020FD with a clearance tag on it.

I have been in the market for a new HDTV for a few years now and as we all know, nothing touches these panels. Should I pull the trigger? I wanted a new entertainment center for this bad boy but the interior designer is coming tomorrow to rid me of this gargantuan 4:3 entertainment center etc so it will be a few months before I can set it up.

Buy or wait? The price, well, just under 4.

Cheers!