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The Official Pioneer 9G non-Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 478

post #14311 of 14941
Hi guys,

I have another question about my 500m >.<<br />
So i am noticing that in the day time, the screen looks greyish. Unlike the Sony LCD i had, when the TV is off, it seems that there is a grey filter on the TV.

Is this normal? Because it seems like in the day time the black levels don't look as good as they do in the night time which seems absolutely bizarre! When i display a black image with some text in the day time it looks grayish the blacks, where as at night time, the same image produces pure blacks.

For day time i am using D-nice's pure setting. For night time i am using his pure setting minus 14-18 points in contrast.

EDIT: I should note that i am testing the blacks at day time with both a PS3 and PC. Have tried a combination of different RGB/display settings and am also aware of the RGB bug.

EDIT 2: Alright i figured it out. It was because my room was painted white. As a result, the screen was reflecting a lot of the white color. Looks like i will have to paint the room!
post #14312 of 14941
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeremyBramble View Post

Hi guys,

I have another question about my 500m >.<<br />
So i am noticing that in the day time, the screen looks greyish. Unlike the Sony LCD i had, when the TV is off, it seems that there is a grey filter on the TV.

Is this normal? Because it seems like in the day time the black levels don't look as good as they do in the night time which seems absolutely bizarre! When i display a black image with some text in the day time it looks grayish the blacks, where as at night time, the same image produces pure blacks.

For day time i am using D-nice's pure setting. For night time i am using his pure setting minus 14-18 points in contrast.

EDIT: I should note that i am testing the blacks at day time with both a PS3 and PC. Have tried a combination of different RGB/display settings and am also aware of the RGB bug.

EDIT 2: Alright i figured it out. It was because my room was painted white. As a result, the screen was reflecting a lot of the white color. Looks like i will have to paint the room!

Kuros are not as good at showing black in daylight as a lot of modern LCD's are.....they really shine in lower light environments though..probably another reason for their demise since they didn't look so great at Best Buy etc. in the store lighting.
post #14313 of 14941
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlanBuck View Post

Kuros are not as good at showing black in daylight as a lot of modern LCD's are.....they really shine in lower light environments though..probably another reason for their demise since they didn't look so great at Best Buy etc. in the store lighting.

really?

Without the right software, the right Calibrator... Ignorance is bliss?
post #14314 of 14941
Well yeah i was actually able to temporarily fix it by installing thicker curtains.

I would actually say that the black levels are much better now during day time as opposed to complete darkness, LOL.

But seriously, this has to be the best TV i have ever seen. Really impressed by the quality. I can't believe just how much better it is compared to the Sony HX909 i had. God, the blooming on that set was horrible.

Thanks for the input though mate!
post #14315 of 14941
Quote:
Originally Posted by turbe View Post

really?

Without the right software, the right Calibrator... Ignorance is bliss?

Yes really...are u kidding? The screen looks GREYISH BLACK
with any room light hitting it...how can one calibrate that? Mine is calibrated and blacks are greyed out in a light room. Not that it looks bad...but it does not look inky black either. The Kuros are great sets, but they are not perfect. They look best in a dark environment.
post #14316 of 14941
Howdy,

I have never had a problem or noticed blacks, anything less during the day with light streaming into my living room.
You will see in the pictures below that I have a sliding glass door to the right of my Kuro PDP5020 and a large window to the left of my Kuro.
My living room is very bright and flooded with light!
Granted, I do not have light flooding in against the face of my Kuro, but I would not set up my room like that either.
Just an FYI on my 2 year Old Kuro!

The Pics were from last years NFL Season.

Later,
Bud
LL
LL
LL
LL
post #14317 of 14941
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bud B View Post

Howdy,

I have never had a problem or noticed blacks, anything less during the day with light streaming into my living room.
You will see in the pictures below that I have a sliding glass door to the right of my Kuro PDP5020 and a large window to the left of my Kuro.
My living room is very bright and flooded with light!
Granted, I do not have light flooding in against the face of my Kuro, but I would not set up my room like that either.
Just an FYI on my 2 year Old Kuro!

The Pics were from last years NFL Season.

Later,
Bud

The Kuros don't do black as well (you can easily see that when it's OFF), nor or they as bright in a bright room as any sort of a good LCD is. Reviewers noted that when they were new. Not saying it's not watchable in a bright room, (and NFL games are hardly a test of black level performance..try a dark movie and see what it looks like in daylight..I can report not so great) , but the Kuro does much better in a darker room as do all plasmas. When I go to Sams, Costco etc the plasmas look pretty sad (dim with washed out blacks) compared to the LCD's in that lighting. It is a different story at home but most people don't realize that. I still prefer the Kuro overall, but I'm not a total fanboy...it does have its weaknesses as well.
post #14318 of 14941
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlanBuck View Post

The Kuros don't do black as well (you can easily see that when it's OFF)

Most people use "black" to refer to the minimum output of the display which is constant in all conditions. You seem to be using "black" to refer to the effectiveness of the anti-reflective coating in high ambient lighting.
post #14319 of 14941
My Pioneer 6020 plus home theatre is listed with lowered price in classified section. Reason for selling is moving to an apartment. Just giving everyone here a heads up.

Sincerely,

Mark
post #14320 of 14941
Quote:
Originally Posted by bodosom View Post

Most people use "black" to refer to the minimum output of the display which is constant in all conditions. You seem to be using "black" to refer to the effectiveness of the anti-reflective coating in high ambient lighting.

Exactly...in low lighting (not pitch dark though) 'black' nearly matches the bezel...with any room light striking the screen 'black' is noticably lighter than the bezel. My glossy screen LCD monitor looks much blacker in room lighting than the Kuro does. It's another story though in low light..the Kuro is much better.
post #14321 of 14941
Hi!

Got my KRP-500A ISF-calibrated today (by a professional) against my PS3.
I noticed that he had the Pure Cinema set to Standard.
What would be the most optimal and prefered setting to have in Pure Cinema when ISF-calibrating as these options are locked for editing in the ISF day- and night modes?

Thanks in advance!
post #14322 of 14941
I like advanced cause it does auto IVTC for 30i content. I think that's the only difference with it and standard.
post #14323 of 14941
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy o View Post

I like advanced cause it does auto IVTC for 30i content. I think that's the only difference with it and standard.

Normal does too it just doesn't refresh at 72hz so you get the 3:2 studder
post #14324 of 14941
If it doesn't refresh at 72 how is it doing IVTC?
post #14325 of 14941
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff_DML View Post

Normal does too it just doesn't refresh at 72hz so you get the 3:2 studder

I'm going to have the TV re-calibrated - Would it it be a good idea to have PureCinema on ISF-Night set to Advanced and have the ISF-Day with exactly the same values as ISF-Night but with PureCinema either set to Standard or Off?
post #14326 of 14941
That way I could switch between Advanced and Standard/Off depending on the "source"

EDIT: Sorry for double post, I was going to edit and ended up with a second post
post #14327 of 14941
Quote:
Originally Posted by virre View Post

That way I could switch between Advanced and Standard/Off depending on the "source"

was going to say do advance for both but that brings up a interesting option. I leave mine on advanced all the time but see some occasionally issues on my over compressed DISH HD lite. I pretty much only watch movies at night and sports/kids stuff during the day. Advance/72hz is only required for 24p/film sources, so for my normal viewing situation it might make sense to do night/advance and day/normal. Not sure if that make sense for you.
post #14328 of 14941
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff_DML View Post

I pretty much only watch movies at night and sports/kids stuff during the day. Advance/72hz is only required for 24p/film sources, so for my normal viewing situation it might make sense to do night/advance and day/normal. Not sure if that make sense for you.

That's pretty much the same case for me, I hardly watch movies during the day, so yeah, that makes a lot of sense

Next question is, should I have PureCinema on the Day mode on Standard or completely Off?
What's advantage/disadvantage between Standard and Off?

And last question, If I just want to read/extract the ISF values from my TV, is ControlCal the only choise, and do I need to buy an activation key for that or is there another way for this?
post #14329 of 14941
can someone help me here........


i just recently bought a 6020fd and have set the settings to d-nice's settings. The problem that I seem to be having is the fact that when in movie mode, and purecinema set to advance as d-nice recommended, i seem to notice a bit of the soap opera effect when watching directv and blu rays. Only time I don't notice it is when purecinema is turned off, but i see alot of ?dejuddering? (where when the camera pans, i notice alot of choppiness)...sorry i dont know the terms for these things..

so i was wondering if im missing something here as far as my settings are concerned. once again, they are set exactly to the settings d-nice has recommended for the 6020fd.

thanks

also...
if anyone needs to know..

components:
6020fd
directv hd-dvr
bdp-23fd
apple tv
pioneer vsx-1020k




thanks!
post #14330 of 14941
Quote:
Originally Posted by stp2585 View Post

can someone help me here........


i just recently bought a 6020fd and have set the settings to d-nice's settings. The problem that I seem to be having is the fact that when in movie mode, and purecinema set to advance as d-nice recommended, i seem to notice a bit of the soap opera effect when watching directv and blu rays. Only time I don't notice it is when purecinema is turned off, but i see alot of ?dejuddering? (where when the camera pans, i notice alot of choppiness)...sorry i dont know the terms for these things..

so i was wondering if im missing something here as far as my settings are concerned. once again, they are set exactly to the settings d-nice has recommended for the 6020fd.

thanks

also...
if anyone needs to know..

components:
6020fd
directv hd-dvr
bdp-23fd
apple tv
pioneer vsx-1020k




thanks!

What's the difference between soap opera and judder?


bob
post #14331 of 14941
Hi all,

A couple of questions with the PDP 5020
I just purchased a new Pioneer Elite VSX 53 receiver.

I want to use the HDMI Control between the two.
After I make all connections and select the Software link, the HDMI Function seems to work fine but each time my VSX 53 comes on with the 5020,
it goes to TV/SAT on the receivers and not to HDMI 2 which is the HDMI Input for my 5020 on my Elite VSX 53.
This may be a receiver question and I can ask that in the Elite Owners thread.

1) Does the 5020 have Audio Return Channel? (ARC)
2) HDMI Control choices are "ALL" or "PQLS".
Does the 5020 have PQLS?

Does anyone else have a Pioneer receiver with HDMI connected to their Kuro and if so what can be expected?

Thanks,
Bud B
post #14332 of 14941
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bud B View Post

Hi all,

A couple of questions with the PDP 5020
I just purchased a new Pioneer Elite VSX 53 receiver.

I want to use the HDMI Control between the two.
After I make all connections and select the Software link, the HDMI Function seems to work fine but each time my VSX 53 comes on with the 5020,
it goes to TV/SAT on the receivers and not to HDMI 2 which is the HDMI Input for my 5020 on my Elite VSX 53.
This may be a receiver question and I can ask that in the Elite Owners thread.

1) Does the 5020 have Audio Return Channel? (ARC)
2) HDMI Control choices are "ALL" or "PQLS".
Does the 5020 have PQLS?

Does anyone else have a Pioneer receiver with HDMI connected to their Kuro and if so what can be expected?

Thanks,
Bud B

I had my 5020 hooked up to a 1120k AVR and now a Elite SC35. I have never fooled around with the HDMI control, i have to power on my SC35 and 5020 with two remotes. Only thing i notice is when i power up my OPPO83 or Elite 05FD BD player the AVR will auto switch to that input.
post #14333 of 14941
Quote:
Originally Posted by stp2585 View Post

can someone help me here........


i just recently bought a 6020fd and have set the settings to d-nice's settings. The problem that I seem to be having is the fact that when in movie mode, and purecinema set to advance as d-nice recommended, i seem to notice a bit of the soap opera effect when watching directv and blu rays. Only time I don't notice it is when purecinema is turned off, but i see alot of ?dejuddering? (where when the camera pans, i notice alot of choppiness)...sorry i dont know the terms for these things..

so i was wondering if im missing something here as far as my settings are concerned. once again, they are set exactly to the settings d-nice has recommended for the 6020fd.

thanks

also...
if anyone needs to know..

components:
6020fd
directv hd-dvr
bdp-23fd
apple tv
pioneer vsx-1020k




thanks!

anyone??
post #14334 of 14941
Quote:
Originally Posted by stp2585 View Post

anyone??

advanced does not interpolate any fake frames so it will not create a soap opera effect. I have seen issues with advance and my over compressed DISH but it was more of a weird frame rate refesh that caused studdering not what I would consider soap opera effect. But since you see it on blueray, which should be a pristine source then I am not sure what your problem is.

The Smooth setting will generate extra frames giving it a a soap opera effect, are you sure it is not set in that mode? I think it only generates enough to go from 24->30 so not as bad as the 120/240z LCDs.
post #14335 of 14941
After an earthquake, construction in a neighbor's apartment, and a hurricane, my 5020 ripped out of the wall, smashing on the floor. While I'm deeply saddened by it's demise, I'm happy no one got hurt, as the dog and child were in the room when it happened. It was the best screen I had ever watched outside of post-production facilities. I loved it... Wah.

What do you think is the next best screen to replace it with? The 55" Pannys won't fit in the space I lovingly created for the Pioneer. Needs to be 52" max width...

Thanks!
post #14336 of 14941
Quote:
Originally Posted by atstern View Post

After an earthquake, construction in a neighbor's apartment, and a hurricane, my 5020 ripped out of the wall, smashing on the floor. While I'm deeply saddened by it's demise, I'm happy no one got hurt, as the dog and child were in the room when it happened. It was the best screen I had ever watched outside of post-production facilities. I loved it... Wah.

What do you think is the next best screen to replace it with? The 55" Pannys won't fit in the space I lovingly created for the Pioneer. Needs to be 52" max width...

Thanks!

Sorry to hear that man, but glad to hear no one got hurt which is the most important thing =)

As for which TV to get, if used Kuros aren't an option, if I was in the market today I'd consider either the latest Panny plasmas or the latest 8000 series Samsung LED HDTVs.

I'm a pretty hardcore video gamer so I'd probably go for the Samsung because I don't like what I hear about Panasonic's image retention/burn in issues, they don't seem to be as resistant as the Kuros in that department.
post #14337 of 14941
Quote:
Originally Posted by metallicaband View Post

Sorry to hear that man, but glad to hear no one got hurt which is the most important thing =)

As for which TV to get, if used Kuros aren't an option, if I was in the market today I'd consider either the latest Panny plasmas or the latest 8000 series Samsung LED HDTVs.

I'm a pretty hardcore video gamer so I'd probably go for the Samsung because I don't like what I hear about Panasonic's image retention/burn in issues, they don't seem to be as resistant as the Kuros in that department.

Panasonic won't fit size-wise. I'd get the 55" if it did. What do you think about the new Sony XBR's (HX929)? Many seem to compare them favorably to the Samsung LED's.
post #14338 of 14941
Quote:
Originally Posted by atstern View Post

Panasonic won't fit size-wise. I'd get the 55" if it did. What do you think about the new Sony XBR's (HX929)? Many seem to compare them favorably to the Samsung LED's.


I'd still be hesitant to get the Sony because of the shallow viewing area. If you always sit almost dead center, then it may be a good choice.

Otherwise, what about the Samsung 51D7000? Or for half the price of that one the 51D550? These would have no problem fitting in that space.
post #14339 of 14941
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bud B View Post

...I want to use the HDMI Control between the two....

You better off leaving that set to Off. HDMI Control just seems to cause more problems than the little convenience it offers, especially with handshakes between the various components.
post #14340 of 14941
Please stay focused on the Kuro, not what to replace one with - there's many threads that already have addressed it. Thanks.

larry
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