The Official Pioneer 9G non-Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 49

Exactly. So people shouldn't be jumping on me and saying I'm full of it when I state, what to me is a clearly observable fact, that the Kuros can't get blacker than dark gray with high ambient light?

I think the Kuro is an amazing TV. That's why I bought it and I would buy it again. However, there are pluses and minuses with any technology and I'm a realist. I was completely shocked by the gray screen when I got the Kuro out of the box, and *if* it mattered to me, I would have been just as disappointed as the poor guys who have excess buzz. btw, my set doesn't have any buzz that I can hear.

D-Nice,

I know you've probably been asked 100 times, but I'm due to receive my 5020 next week (my first HDTV).

I'm confused about break in settings vs. post break in settings. Specifically, what method/settings/disc do you recommend to break in the TV?

After break in, what (in your opinion) are the best settings?


If it matters, I'm getting a PS3 but not for a couple of weeks. Right now, all I have is a standard def DVD player. I see people running the break in discs for 150+ hours straight. I'm nervous that if the DVD player hangs up for any reason, I'll burn the screen.


Thanks.

No need to rub it in.

yea. lol

It's pretty clear in the first post. Use the break in settings while using the break in DVD that's linked in the post. Make sure it takes up the entire screen/no black bars when playing. Then, after break in, use the reference settings.

I only run the break-in DVD when I'm actually around, although my ancient PS2 was a trooper and ran it for about 20hrs without a problem. I mix in regular TV watching after the first 20 hours and have had ZERO image retention.

He also might not be able to hear it as well as you guys - a possibility, anyways.

After many years on Navy ships, that is indeed possible.

When I receive the TV I make sure that the first 24 hours are playing nothing but the Break-in Disk. This makes sure that all the pixels are illuinated during the TV's first use for an extended period of time.
Then I start watching televison as I normally would. And when I am not watching it, at work, or sleeping, I put in the break-in Disk and let it do its thing.
So the Brek-in disk is running during the first 24 hours straight and then about 18 hours out of every day until the 200 hour mark hits.
This seems to work perfctly for every plasma I have done it with.
And the good thing is you can watch your TV when you first get it instead of having to torture yourself by watching the Beak-in disk run 24/7 until 150-200 hours has passed.
3-4 years ago I would have ran the break-in disk for the full 200 hours no doubt. But with todays top-of the line plasmas, I think doing it the way I do it is just fine and is just about as effective (if not just as effective) as running for the full 150-200 hrs straight.
And like you, I have suffered from Zero Image retention.
This is why I totally trust that the Break-in Disk helps regardless of what some skeptics will say.
I have seen alot of posts of people complaining about I.R. who did not use the break-in DVD. But I have seen very very few people who used the break-in Disk complain of I.R.
Thi is more than just a coincidence in my eyes. Especially when some manufactuers still speak of the "Break-in Period".

Has anyone gotten the tv to work with an SR+ cable hooked up to a pioneer receiver?

I got my 5020 last week Tuesday and did zero break in on it. I have seen no evidence of IR. I finally noticed the break in DVD link in the first post yesterday and downloaded it. I let it run this morning for about 10 minutes. I don't know that I'll use it much more, but I just wanted to see what was on the disc.

ooooh, the colors

b11051973, you just became optivity's new best friend!

yes, should work just fine. and can vouch for monoprice, good solid well built cables at excellent prices with fast shipping. many avs members use and reccomend them.

d nice just reported his Pro111 came cracked. more Kuros being lost to cracked glass..........

Every Single Outlet

I plan to place my 6020 where it will be difficult (if not impossible) to connect cables to it once the PDP is set.

So, based on recommendations here, I'm planning on plugging in cables into every single outlet before the PDP is placed.

My question: Is there any problem with having all cables coming out of the PDP, even if only a few of them will be connected to other hardware?

If anyone has done this, I'd appreciate any feedback. Thanks.

smart man. will be no problem. just be as smart and clearly label them. find good cables great prices at monoprice.com and plug er up.

I just did this last night. I ran 3 HDMI and 1 Comp but am letting my AVR do all the switching to 1 HDMI. Works with no issues.

chadmak, what ever happened with that "arc" that traveled up through the center of your screen? Did you contact Pioneer? I didn't see anything posted after you mentioned it, though I may have skimmed over it.

I'd be interested to know as well. I've been thinking about one of the new Pioneer AVRs, but I can't figure out from the manual if the SR+ cable can provide the on screen display info while at the same time allow you to be connected to the tv via HDMI. The drawing in the manual makes it look like you have to use component and HDMI control has to be set to off. But then, others seem to think this is not the case, but I haven't come across anyone that can confirm this.

I have HDMI-DVI cables - has anyone noticed an unpleasant amount of current going through from HDMI on the tv to DVI when it's not connected? Both of my cables give an uncomfortable sting (not painful, just uncomfortable) when I've accidentally touched the DVI pins while HDMI is in the TV (and tv is on).

Also, figured out my problems with black detail - I used the reference settings on Standard and not Movie- that cleared everything up.

So I d/l'd and burned it. Watching it on my mac until I receive and hook up my 6020.

Questions: How should it behave? Asked another way - what should I see? I get full screen color tones - whites, greys, blues, etc. for around 30 seconds each. But then the time stops . . . and then starts again on a new color (and ultimately repeats). Is this right? If so, do I need to set my DVD player to loop the disc overnight or does it somehow just keep going and going?

Please advise...

TIA
TM

HAHA, I'm hoping that my five years in the Corp working on F/18s have made it so I don't hear the Buzzzz.

If you're opening up the wall (cutting drywall), I'd also recommend putting some conduit in so that years from now when its time to upgrade, if the cable specs have changed, you'll only have to pull cable through the conduit.

I probably wouldn't run cables to every type of input. Seems to be a bit of a costly overkill.

I think this is FAR more the case with the majority of sets. People talk about getting "buzzers" all the time, but the fact remains, READ YOUR MANUAL! It clearly states that an audible buzz is completely NORMAL! All these sets buzz, every single one. It's just a difference of the owners hearing, typical volume level, and room acoustics. Its the nature of the technology...

I just ordered 15' cables for just about every port on the back of my TV (including 4 HDMI in-wall quality, Component, Video and Audio RCA, S Video, Audio out excluding optical, power cable) from monoprice and paid under $100. Just about the price of one ridiculous Monster HDMI from Best Buy.

After upteen million posts on the Buzz Poll thread, I was inclined to agree with you. Most people that heard the buzz on their original unit, also heard it on their replacement unit. And most people that didn't hear a buzz, never heard it on another set. There were probably 1-2 instances on the Buzz Poll thread where people went from one side to another.

But as more people are exposed to multiple Kuros (by buying 9Gs with 8Gs already) I've noticed about 3 reports already of people hearing buzz on one unit but not the other. This growing number would suggest that there MAY be more variance between sets than previously thought (at least in my mind) since most of these owners have the TV in a similiar setup, with similiar ambient noise, and are listening with the same ears.

Yea I would agree with that also. There is probably a (very) small percentage of units that have some excessive buzz. But I also think that because of the the mentioning and perception of buzz, people are looking for it more, and take it as there unit being defective. I just hope enough people realize that some buzz is normal and to be expected (per the manual).

Oh, and I have listened to a bunch of different pio's and never heard anything excessive. I don't think it should ever be a reason to not buy an 8 or 9g. There really should be only 2 reasons, price or if you like a fake looking picture (LCD).

My 5020 showed up yesterday...big thanks to Alex and Deb at Invision. Delivery went smoothly, panel was in good shape. I've been running the break-in DVD on and off for the past 24 hours...for now, it looks like no dead pixels, and no buzz that I can hear unless I get my head behind the panel.

I tried to take a few pictures, but all I've got is a point-and-shoot, so they don't do the display justice. I've yet to play anything at 1080p, but SD, in my opinion, looks fantastic (480i from a standard DVD player). The 720p PS3 games look great. Here are some pics! (keep in mind that the exposures are crap...these pics don't show all of the detail...they do show how good the blacks get)

show me more show me more!! can we see the back? can u do some 360 degree shots?

I plan on making my purchase with my AE Gold.When you make a purchase with the card the will double the factory warranty.
They also have the buyers protection plan which lets you return an item up to 90 days after purchase.