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The Official Pioneer 9G non-Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 485

post #14521 of 14941
Remember my older post about my black levels not looking black. Well Here's an image that I found which showing exactly what i notice with my krp500A. MY krp500A blacks looks more like the TV on the left.


i really dont know what to do? should i send a tech over?
post #14522 of 14941
Im on my phone so i cant check your post hist but given that it's from the 500 series you have no warranty left from Pioneer, right? Maybe I'm missing something here but I would lean towards having a calibrator come out. I bet you a good one will be more beneficial to you overall than a "tv tech". They will probably be able to solve your problem or facilitate you better. I just believe they understand the sets better than most of the techs. You know, a good one will have analytical intuition that exceeds what a tech will probably have IMO. Sometimes "what the book says" doesn't cut it. Id rather have someone with more adept analytical skills. But I'm sure their are exceptions to every situation.
post #14523 of 14941
I still have a weeks of warranty. Its an 500A, not the M.

well there are no calibrators where i live at.
maybe the krp500A black levels arent as good as the M model?
post #14524 of 14941
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike kaw View Post

Remember my older post about my black levels not looking black. Well Here's an image that I found which showing exactly what i notice with my krp500A. MY krp500A blacks looks more like the TV on the left.


i really dont know what to do? should i send a tech over?

what is your brightness setting set at? what mode are you using? i know you mentioned that there are no calibrators local, but you can try using a disc first. the avs709hd is free here, but i also like the disney WOW disc too. its worth a shot....
post #14525 of 14941
anyone help me input hdmi 4 on the back of my kuro 6020fd will not work unless i hold the hdmi cable ...i think years against the wall didnt help. its not the cable its brand new i was looking at board aww1371 its the board with all the hdmi jacks on it anyone have a write up on how to replace it
post #14526 of 14941
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jriverskuro6020 View Post

anyone help me input hdmi 4 on the back of my kuro 6020fd will not work unless i hold the hdmi cable ...i think years against the wall didnt help. its not the cable its brand new i was looking at board aww1371 its the board with all the hdmi jacks on it anyone have a write up on how to replace it

You need to purchase a Service Manual. It will show you, in general, how to replace that board.

Also, it sounds like you have stressed the port with the cable you have been using against the wall. It happens. If you have steady hands and are up to it, try bending in the outer edges of the port so that it will hold the cable more securely where you don't have to hold the cable for it to work.
post #14527 of 14941
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1forsnow View Post


what is your brightness setting set at? what mode are you using? i know you mentioned that there are no calibrators local, but you can try using a disc first. the avs709hd is free here, but i also like the disney WOW disc too. its worth a shot....

He also needs to verify he isn't sending the display a RGB-16-235 signal without forcing the KRP into RGB-16-235.
post #14528 of 14941
Quote:
Originally Posted by jriverskuro6020 View Post

anyone help me input hdmi 4 on the back of my kuro 6020fd will not work unless i hold the hdmi cable ...i think years against the wall didnt help. its not the cable its brand new i was looking at board aww1371 its the board with all the hdmi jacks on it anyone have a write up on how to replace it

I'd still try another brand cable first

bob
post #14529 of 14941
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

You need to purchase a Service Manual. It will show you, in general, how to replace that board.

Also, it sounds like you have stressed the port with the cable you have been using against the wall. It happens. If you have steady hands and are up to it, try bending in the outer edges of the port so that it will hold the cable more securely where you don't have to hold the cable for it to work.

thank you ...found a board and a service manual i am gonna make it so there is no stress on the port after i swap out the board @bob this is a brand new cable from bluejeans i did check the cable it works but the port on back of tv is half broke anything else i need to know before i venture into this ? also as a funny side note i did talk to a tv repair man and he told me to buy a new tv!!! he apparently doesnt know anything about these tvs and there worth
post #14530 of 14941
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

He also needs to verify he isn't sending the display a RGB-16-235 signal without forcing the KRP into RGB-16-235.

Hmmm...
How do you do that?
post #14531 of 14941
i will try posting later pictures of my tv black levels.
post #14532 of 14941
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike kaw View Post

Hmmm...
How do you do that?

Read your manual. Input setup menu.
post #14533 of 14941
hey guys,

it would be great if you can help me with this one:

i got a LX5090H (europe) and recently added a master/slave extension lead to my home cinema system. master is my av-receiver, everything else (including the KURO) is slave.

i am using a Philips remote control to control all devices. to turn everything off, i use a macro as follows:
1. KURO off
2. cable receiver off
3. av-receiver off

that - of course - works with the master/slave extension lead as well, but the last bit of the macro (AVR off) cuts power for the KURO.

my question is - the KURO usually takes some time to "cool down", which ends in the "click" of a relay. but with my macro i am cutting it's power (after KURO LED had turned red of course) and interrupt the "cool down phase" or whatever this is.

do you think/know if this is in any way harmful to the KURO?

thanks.
post #14534 of 14941
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike kaw View Post

I still have a weeks of warranty. Its an 500A, not the M.

well there are no calibrators where i live at.
maybe the krp500A black levels arent as good as the M model?

The Krp-500A and M (are the same 9.5g panel technology).
post #14535 of 14941
Update

500A's are if they were built in Europe BEFORE 2009
post #14536 of 14941
Any recommendations on cleaning my pioneer's screen? It's an 8G 5080HD but shouldn't have any bearing on what to clean it with. I generally just dust it and a damp 100% cotton cloth. Anyone have any other recommendations to get one cleaned up? My dog decided to do the slobber shake in front of my tv and it's leaving a bit of residue...
post #14537 of 14941
Quote:
Originally Posted by 6SpeedTA95 View Post

Any recommendations on cleaning my pioneer's screen? It's an 8G 5080HD but shouldn't have any bearing on what to clean it with. I generally just dust it and a damp 100% cotton cloth. Anyone have any other recommendations to get one cleaned up? My dog decided to do the slobber shake in front of my tv and it's leaving a bit of residue...

Use a high quality microfiber cloth slightly damp with distilled water.
post #14538 of 14941
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Use a high quality microfiber cloth slightly damp with distilled water.

....and NOTHING else
post #14539 of 14941
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Use a high quality microfiber cloth slightly damp with distilled water.

Easy enough...
post #14540 of 14941
Quote:
Originally Posted by progrhythmical View Post

....and NOTHING else

Absolutely!
post #14541 of 14941
Quote:
Originally Posted by jd17 View Post

do you think/know if this is in any way harmful to the KURO?

can noone help me with this?
post #14542 of 14941
Quote:
Originally Posted by jd17 View Post

can noone help me with this?

There probably aren't many setups like yours, but what you really need is an engineer from Pioneer to answer your question.

My impression is that most owners in the US leave their displays in standby and provide the display with it's own source of power. The only time I've ever cut the power connection to our Kuro is when there is a threat of lightning in the area.
post #14543 of 14941
^I cut the power to mine regularly (after every use) to reduce vampiric loads.
post #14544 of 14941
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinnie97 View Post

^I cut the power to mine regularly (after every use) to reduce vampiric loads.

Is that based on trickle down theory?
post #14545 of 14941
Unlikely it will hurt, I have an old nec in my garage that I cut the power to with a switch and it still works even with the lack of climate control.
post #14546 of 14941
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

Read your manual. Input setup menu.

D, I found a 151FD NIB. How do I make sure the unit is actually new and not put back in the box and taped up? Is there a way to tell??
post #14547 of 14941
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bardia View Post


D, I found a 151FD NIB. How do I make sure the unit is actually new and not put back in the box and taped up? Is there a way to tell??

If that is the 9G elite 60" monitor (which I think it is) you have to connect the Ethernet to a website to check the hours I think. I can't remember it's name. But if you would do a little research on your own you will find it in this thread and other kuro related threads.
post #14548 of 14941
Wait, that's the tv. You should be able to pull it up through the menu. Yet once again, "read the manual" lol
post #14549 of 14941
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post


Read your manual. Input setup menu.

Haha, just saw this. Word.
post #14550 of 14941
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bardia View Post

D, I found a 151FD NIB. How do I make sure the unit is actually new and not put back in the box and taped up? Is there a way to tell??

You need to be asking in the Elite thread. This is the 6020 non-elite thread.

The Official Pioneer 9G Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread

Check in the first post, and ask the other owners. I don't think you can use the menu. If you set up the display, I think you would get a good clue that way too. In addition to checking the hours, I would also use the aging screens that D-Nice recommends for the first 100 hours to check for stuck pixels or burn-in. Also use a flash light from a sharp angle to check for minute cracks in the screen. Lastly, I would want a reliable owner (seller) to avoid buying stolen goods that might wind up biting you if you ever needed warranty work.
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