The Official Pioneer 9G non-Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 486

I have a 5010fd and it seems due to a power surge the main board got blown. The indicator light blinks 8 times. I had a service tech out and he said the main board needs to be replaced, which is $823 + labor (350). Not worth it I don't think.

Does anyone know if there is any market to sell the set for part value? I would think that someone that can do the work can buy a used board and probably get the set working for $200 or so.

Does anyone know how hard it is to execute the repair itself?

Thanks
Glen

Thanks for the reply. One thing a tech told me is that the firmware may need to be upgraded before install. Is there any truth to that?

Ok, last question (I think). I ordered the part, read the service manual. One thing it says is that after I replace the main assy, you need to perform "FINAL SETUP" using the service menu. However, it also seems to say in the service manual that:

How to enter Service Factory Mode by Using the supplied Remote Control Unit
Same as previous model. Please refer to the technical document (Service Know-how).

Which is not particularly helpful.

I have tried to service for this information, but have not been able to find anything on this, and don't want to be stuck on this step if I can avoid it.

Thanks for the assistance so far.

i wonder if you have a loose connection rather than a blown circuit board

see

"Is it possible to turn a 6020FD into an ELITE" thread

and search on

'blue light blinking 8 times on power on'

I have a 5020fd and would like to start using the Game Mode with Game Pref setting on. I've been using D-Nice setting in Movie mode for everything and it's been brilliant. I searched for Game mode settings and someone mentioned D-Nice posted settings for this mode but can't seem to find them. Can someone link me to them.. or simply tell me what they use? I'm not the best at setting things up myself, but D-Nice's movie settings are perfect. I never have to fiddle. So it'd be nice if there was a reference settings for Game mode.

Also.. another curious question. Has input lag improved on new sets such as ST/VT30 and 50 series compared to our Kuros? I'm sure lag is very little with Game mode on the Kuro but are new panels even less or about the same? I'm always looking for ways to cut down lag.. and would probably go with a 42UT50 for PC gaming if it's considerably less. I'm currently using my 5020fd for PC gaming and it's beyond awesome (just a little big). But I can live with it if the UT50 isn't going to offer noticeably less lag.

Thanks.

Thanks for the suggestion as well. However, I don't think this is the case because the issue started after multiple power outages in my apartment. I will definitely check this as well when I have it open.

Victory has been achieved. As suggested by D-Nice I ordered the part from shopjimmy, and a friend and I completed the repair. Wasn't too hard. Took a bit less then 2hrs. Only downside was that I lost my calibration settings, so will have to re-enter them.

Thanks much for the advice.

8 blinking lights is resolved.

Now, go DIRECTLY to the store and buy a REAL surge protector! You can find them for under $40 most of the time. You might not be so lucky next time

how long did it take to create this and about how much did it run you?

Jose Holguincruz

Hi guys,

I found a kuro lx5090,it's 2.5 year old and it's 2000$.I can buy 50vt30 or sony hx820 with same price.But I'm fell in love with with kuro's pictures on the forums.But I'm little confused about get pio or new pany with warranty.

3D,smart,media player etc. isn't important for me,most important thing for me is black levels and picture quality.I have got some doubts.The problem which I read on forum "reddish tint" is real problem or only few.Is black levels change over time ? The kuro I found used 9000 hours.Is black levels will be same like first day or changed ?

This is most important thing for me because I have panasonic px70 and its 5 year old and it's black become a grey.I'm waiting your comments...

PS:I'm living Europa not US,maybe some model names be different...

You like black, and PQ? Get the Kuro. Red tint is for some, I don't have it. 1.5 year old 151 is as black as day one,

That's a euro version of the 9g 50" TV (not monitor) I believe. Non Elite too I believe. That's a personal decision there. If it were me I'd buy the kuro for the plain fact that it is a better tv (especially PQ), you don't care about the extra gadgets, and they just flat out don't make 'em (like THAT) anymore. However, 9000 hours on that set is a little high for $2K in my opinion. That being said, if I was in the market I would scrutinize the hell out of the set and go over it with a fine tooth comb. If everything looks great, not good, but GREAT...I'd buy it. Still plenty of life left on that TV.

Hello ,

I have a purchased in December 2009 5090H Kuro, it runs approximately 5 to 6 hours/days and Blacks have not budged of hair always also ink, and not tint red, nickel...
Before I had a Pana PX80 and black became grey wear.

Kuro remains one of the best image of the market even in 2012 :

I was of the understanding that pound for pound it remains the best consumer panel image on the market today.

That is one of the best looking photo's I have ever seen posted.

- Rich

Hello, thank you.
His is the "Live" experience before this evil screen is the Kuro.

The 600-M has RUINED watching any other panel, lol. When I watch something somewhere else it's hard for me to get into the story because I keep noticing PQ flaws. Sucks. But it's great at home

Has it been calibrated?

I get the occasional urge to play Sinead O'Connor's "Nothing Compares To You" to my 111FD.

There is a good deal for a 6020 on CL right now- what is a fair price for this tv still? How many hours do these last (is it not worth getting one over a certain number of hours)? Are these really that much better than new panasonic plasmas (could care less about features- all about the PQ)??

I think a fair price is in between $2K to $3K. The price would depend upon the hours used, condition, extended warranty & what it will come with such as the speaker, remote, stand, box, etc. I would say between 5K & 10K hours is normal use due to the age of these plasma now. They are rated at 100K hours so I wouldn't be to worried about hours. I would get controlcal to check the hours for your reference & negotiating leverage. They are still considered the best plasmas that were ever made. If all you care about is picture quality you won't find a better display.

I would highly recommend if you get this 6020 to do an Elite board swap. It will unlock all of the Elite picture adjustments which is what sets the 6020 & 151 apart & allow you to unlock the ISF controls with controlcal. The swap is easy to do & the instructions to perform it can be found on the AVS forum. It's impossible to find these boards anywhere but I have 6 of them for sale for $150 shipped. If you are interested or would like more information send me a PM or give me a call at 586-855-1305.

No, actually. So I guess it CAN get better lol. I keep moving every year because I am renting and the owners keep selling the houses at the end of the lease. Damn housing market lol. I haven't calibrated because I keep changing environments. I am seriously thinking about getting it calibrated for close to zero ambient lux. I usually watch with all lights off and I have the ability to get very close to full black out in my room. Is that a good idea, or no?

It has spent most of its life in power save one, Pure, and mid-low temp config to save the blue sub pixels from being over amped and to try to minimize "fighting" levels that can over amp the gas. When I watch blu-ray or really high quality 1080p feeds I do turn it to "standard" power setting and bump it up to 'mid' on the temp,

I was more so making a reference to the comparison to other friends tvs and other displays I encounter vs mine. Nobody I know has anything close to a Kuro lol. They are all LCD fan boys. Which is cool because there are advantages; but it bothers me because their reasoning for their LCD'S "superiority" is flawed. They are pretty ignorant and stubborn when I shoot them raw facts. I think mostly because they know I'm right but don't want to accept the fact that they made an impulse buy that was influenced by extremely biased propaganda and flawed logic.

When you're ready to collect on your calibration bonus just go ahead and do it where you are. Enjoy.

anybody interested in buying my kuro 500M? I'm in Seattle but I'm moving to Australia in September. PM me if interested!

I have several of the Elite I/O boards part# AWW1353 available for sale. These are the boards used to transform your 9G Non-Elite into an "E-Lite". If you are interested you can see my ad in the classified section. Feel free to PM me or use my contact information below.

Jan Simonsen
586-855-1305
jansimonsen@comcast.net

I have a PDP-6020 and posted this message in the 'blinking blue light' thread but I was not sure I should have posted my issue there or here.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++
I have read this post and I didn't read a situation like I have. Repair Tech replaced digital and (I believe) P/S boards. Upon turning TV on, 2 things occur:
1. The blue light just blinks continuously, there is no pattern.
2. I'm getting red to pink pixelation happening when scenes change.

The TV does turn on and off and the initial issues that he came over to repair seem to have improved dramatically ('blooming' and another pixelation issue not the same as described above.

The repair tech told me he needed to come back w/special remote to fix these issues so I guess I have to believe him. Has anyone heard or seen a continuous blue blinking light or the other issue I describe? Any truth to the special remote the repair tech mentions?

Yes, the special remote will give him access to the service menu, which provides access to many different settings that would otherwise be unavailable.