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The Official Pioneer 9G non-Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 489

post #14641 of 14945
Thx! On eBay, believe it or not. There were quite a few options for parts suppliers out there (for everything other than the aww1353 elite boards). The whole assembly was relatively inexpensive and much easier to replace versus swapping a capacitor or other PCB component.

So happy to have the Kuro back alive. Incidentally, if you're ever getting the itch to buy a bigger display...having to do a repair is a cure for what ails ya! I "suffered" through having a 40" Samsung LCD in my main viewing area while the Pio was out of commission. Now that the kuro is back the 60" feels huge again
post #14642 of 14945
I am trying to control my 5020FD with iRule via TCP/IP; the remote control commands are in irule, but the TV will not keep the static IP address I assigned after a power cycle. Does anyone have any experience with this? I have documented the procedures I followed in the iRule thread, but have not received any comments or suggestions on what to try next.

Thanks for any input.

Mark
post #14643 of 14945
Quote:
Originally Posted by englechgc View Post

I ordered the 5020 and I am trying to figure out what specific mount works with this set. More information, I have to mount into a stone wall and would like to use one that tilts. I was looking at the omnimount u3tilt but there seems to be different u3tilt models, and I'm not sure if they all work with the 5020.1.gif

If I recall, there are six mounting holes in the back of the 5020 and it looked like it'd work with pretty much any universal mount rated for its weight. I used the sturdiest possible articulating Omnimount for my 6020.

Good luck!
post #14644 of 14945
today my Kuro failed me! The set will not turn on. All I get is a flashing blue light (8 times)
I've read flashing 12 time isseu's but not 8 time. does any one know the issue?...thanks
Its model PDP-6020FD
post #14645 of 14945
Quote:
Originally Posted by giomania View Post

I am trying to control my 5020FD with iRule via TCP/IP; the remote control commands are in irule, but the TV will not keep the static IP address I assigned after a power cycle. Does anyone have any experience with this? I have documented the procedures I followed in the iRule thread, but have not received any comments or suggestions on what to try next.

Thanks for any input.

Mark
I use Roomie instead of iRule, which are similar. I have my 141 controlled via IP & am using an iTach serial adapter with my 5020 E-Lite. The non-monitor 8 & 9G Kuro's can only be controlled via RS232 not IP.
post #14646 of 14945
Quote:
Originally Posted by nobeam View Post

today my Kuro failed me! The set will not turn on. All I get is a flashing blue light (8 times)
I've read flashing 12 time isseu's but not 8 time. does any one know the issue?...thanks
Its model PDP-6020FD

Eight blue lights in the service manual indicates "Main IIC communication" error.... but that is not that helpful.

Try doing a full power off (disconnect from the wall), give a few minutes, and plug it back in and power on (this reloads the Unix code) to see if that gets past the error....


Found this:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/858851/the-official-pioneer-8g-kuro-settings-issues-thread/6800_100#post_13008617
Edited by Duck05 - 1/13/13 at 12:54pm
post #14647 of 14945
Hi guys,

I've been searching this thread and it seems that controlcal or a service remote are needed to check the # of hours on my 5020. I found another link that talked about the possibility of a web interface? Does the web interface work for this?

Just a little much to pay $80 for controlcal to check hours frown.gif Also, any idea what a mint condition low hours 5020 might go for used? Things been sitting for a few years, I never used it much. Hate to see how much freight shipping is too smile.gif

Thanks!
post #14648 of 14945
Hi, that old bundle included a usb serial adapter, proper serial cable and three day shipping and was not that much... it was for those who wanted to calibrate the ne models, not check hours on the ne models.

There is no web interface on that model in this regard.
Edited by turbe - 1/13/13 at 6:41pm
post #14649 of 14945
Hi Turbe,

Thanks for the reply, it was your link I saw on the web interface. Sounds like my cheapest option then is to try and wrangle up a serial cable, and do the $35 donation for controlcal? Might you still happen to have any kits for sale?

Thanks!
post #14650 of 14945
I have no more adapters, been a long time now.. I'll pm you some info including adapter recommendations
post #14651 of 14945
if I turn the unit off or un-plug it I have to wait 1-3 hours and it will turn on.

Does anyone know what board to replace?

thanks
post #14652 of 14945
Quote:
Originally Posted by nobeam View Post

if I turn the unit off or un-plug it I have to wait 1-3 hours and it will turn on.

Does anyone know what board to replace?

thanks

Most likely the power supply.
post #14653 of 14945
called shopjimmy.com and they told me the same 89.00 for Pioneer AXY1201 Power Supply Unit .
is it easy to replace and does anyone have a link to a service manual?
post #14654 of 14945
Quote:
Originally Posted by nobeam View Post

called shopjimmy.com and they told me the same 89.00 for Pioneer AXY1201 Power Supply Unit .
is it easy to replace and does anyone have a link to a service manual?
Yes it is fairly easy to replace & if you search the web you can probably find a manual, but probably don't need it to perform the repair.
post #14655 of 14945
All,

I just moved and to my dismay when I turned on my beloved Pioneer 5020fd there was a black line going halfway up the screen on the right side with purple, white, and green pixels in it. I'm not sure what happened but I have filed a claim with my movers. Does anyone know what might be wrong and what value should I ask for it. I've tenatively put $2500 to replace it. I don't think there are any authorized Pioneer tv servicemen left and I don't want them to try to send someone not qualified to tinker around with my set. I assume I would be happy with a new Panny or Samsung plasma that I've read about in CES this year. Any thoughts/feedback are welcome.


Thanks,
Tony
post #14656 of 14945
Quote:
Originally Posted by tliartis View Post

All,

I just moved and to my dismay when I turned on my beloved Pioneer 5020fd there was a black line going halfway up the screen on the right side with purple, white, and green pixels in it. I'm not sure what happened but I have filed a claim with my movers. Does anyone know what might be wrong and what value should I ask for it. I've tenatively put $2500 to replace it. I don't think there are any authorized Pioneer tv servicemen left and I don't want them to try to send someone not qualified to tinker around with my set. I assume I would be happy with a new Panny or Samsung plasma that I've read about in CES this year. Any thoughts/feedback are welcome.


Thanks,
Tony

I would ask full retail which was $3500. I would personally purchase another Pioneer used. I bought my 5020 E-Lite in my bedroom off of Craigslist for a good price, but that's me. I have owned 3 Kuro's including a 6020 E-Lite & my current 141. I won't upgrade until OLED is more affordable.
post #14657 of 14945
Quote:
Originally Posted by nobeam View Post

called shopjimmy.com and they told me the same 89.00 for Pioneer AXY1201 Power Supply Unit .
is it easy to replace and does anyone have a link to a service manual?

I just replaced the power supply on my 151fd, it was easy, it will take you longer to take all the screws off the back panel, than it will to swap the power supply boards. Oh, and I didn't even use a service manual.

Here is a link that shows a memeber here replacing his PS boards with pics,

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1039269/the-official-pioneer-9g-elite-kuro-owners-discussion-thread/26910#post_21411430

His and mine had the same sympton, two blinking red lights every few seconds, so I don't know if replacing the power supply board will help in your case, but for $89.00 shipped, it is worth a try, would have been for me.
Edited by Juan - 1/16/13 at 3:41pm
post #14658 of 14945
This may be the wrong place to ask but I'm wondering what the value is on my 5020 E-Lite Kuro. D-Nice calibrated in Sept. last year after the board swap (ISF-Day for gaming and ISF-Night for film) and lowered the black level to match the 500m. It's in mint condition with about 2000 hours. I know it's crazy to sell it but 50" doesn't cut it for me any longer. I'm curious what the lowest price you would let one go for if you were to sell local.
Edited by PathofNeo - 1/18/13 at 7:27pm
post #14659 of 14945
^First time I've heard of a 9G panel being able to match that of a 9.5G panel, almost unfathomable to me given the fact that 500m/101fd had slightly different (and upgraded) innards to separate them from their older brethren (111FD, 5020FD).

Having said that, it would be difficult for me to let one go below $1400-1500.
post #14660 of 14945
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinnie97 View Post

^First time I've heard of a 9G panel being able to match that of a 9.5G panel, almost unfathomable to me given the fact that 500m/101fd had slightly different (and upgraded) innards to separate them from their older brethren (111FD, 5020FD).

Having said that, it would be difficult for me to let one go below $1400-1500.
The upgrade should give a non-elite model that same calibration controls that are available in the Elite 9G models.
post #14661 of 14945
The 500m is post 9G, and PathOfNeo claimed D-Nice was able to dial in black levels on his 9G Elited 5020FD that match the 500m. That's some serious calibrator voodoo right dere. Not altogether an impossible feat considering the source, but from reading up on the process over at the HDJ forum, it appears to be the luck of the draw as to what panels can see improvement.
Edited by vinnie97 - 1/19/13 at 12:49am
post #14662 of 14945
Yes I posted the report on HDJ and post calibration it measures .0005. He does not use the voltage trick that's unstable. Instead he had his own proprietary software and with a few clicks from his laptop was able to drop it.

So $1400-1500?
post #14663 of 14945
Yea, I just read up on that...pretty astonishing. I'm gonna' have to try to grab him the next time he's in the area. smile.gif With your panel and its 9.5G black level, I would have a hard time letting it go for less than $1500.
post #14664 of 14945
Quote:
Originally Posted by Juan View Post

I just replaced the power supply on my 151fd, it was easy, it will take you longer to take all the screws off the back panel, than it will to swap the power supply boards. Oh, and I didn't even use a service manual.

Here is a link that shows a memeber here replacing his PS boards with pics,

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1039269/the-official-pioneer-9g-elite-kuro-owners-discussion-thread/26910#post_21411430

His and mine had the same sympton, two blinking red lights every few seconds, so I don't know if replacing the power supply board will help in your case, but for $89.00 shipped, it is worth a try, would have been for me.

They guy at shopjimmy.com said its most likely the power supply boards. what else would it be?
post #14665 of 14945
I know that 8 blinks, but should I just try replacing the PS board? (Failure in IIC communication with the main microcomputer) shopjimmy.com said it was the power supply board.
I starting to think It maybe something else. taking the back cover off saturday. what else should i do while I have the back off.
post #14666 of 14945
Hi all,
I just got a card in the mail from Best Buy that says my Kuro 5020FD is out of warranty in March 2013 but I can add another year for $150.00
What do you all think?
So far in 4 Years my Kuro has been flawless.
My luck I don't take it and something bad happens that would be more than $150.00

I'm pretty tempted to just do it and not worry for another year!

Bud B
post #14667 of 14945
If you have the money do it. An extra year of piece of mind can't hurt.

If something does happen maby they'll give you a ZT60 in exchange. smile.gif
post #14668 of 14945
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bud B View Post

Hi all,
I just got a card in the mail from Best Buy that says my Kuro 5020FD is out of warranty in March 2013 but I can add another year for $150.00
What do you all think?
So far in 4 Years my Kuro has been flawless.
My luck I don't take it and something bad happens that would be more than $150.00

I'm pretty tempted to just do it and not worry for another year!

Bud B

I would do it, the most common thing to fail would be the power supply & it would cost you more than that to have a tech come out to replace it.

On another note, have you done the E-Lite conversion yet? I have a limited amount of modified AWW1352 boards available, if you or anyone else is interested please send me a PM.
post #14669 of 14945
Hi all,
Thanks for the replies.
I took your advice and just signed up my Kuro for another year of Warranty.
I too figure that it is 4 years old and any repair would definitely cost me more than $150.00
Like Health Insurance for my Plasma, I might as well do it.

Thanks again for the positive replies...I'll rest easy for the rest of 2013 and into March of 2014

Regards,
Bud
PS. I have not done the conversion to my AWW 1352 PCB.
However in my job, I have to troubleshoot and repair PCB's to Component level, so I should be fine with soldering on the resistor to the PCB when I'm ready.
I will probably leave it stock until my Warranties expire.
post #14670 of 14945
Hello. On my KRP-600M, which was recently re-calibrated by Doug Weil of Lion AV, I am having a problem. Recently, I hooked up and began breaking in a new receiver, the Marantz SR7007, and it is connected to HDMI input 5 on the TV which is calibrated for ISF Night with the Dot By Dot screen size mode. Whenever I play a BD or go into the receiver's menu, however, at some point the pic size goes to Auto, rather than staying in Dot By Dot. Anyone know why this might be happening or have any ideas on how to stop this? Thanks!
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