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The Official Pioneer 9G non-Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 498

post #14911 of 14945
Best Buy is offering $100 calibrations. They have the equipment. Just have them send a person out to your place, and then you use their equipment to calibrate, while the calibrator sits and watches. smile.gif
post #14912 of 14945
Quote:
Originally Posted by Actionable Mango View Post

If I cannot find a rental one anywhere I will get one eventually,

i suggest that you do
you will probably want to buy a new tv in the future.
then you already have your colormeter and can do a calibration right away.

once calibrated you dont want to own a new tv that isnt calibrated.
post #14913 of 14945
Quote:
Originally Posted by metallicaband View Post

I might think about doing it for the 5020FD since it's in the living room, 5 years old (10,000+ hours so it dimmed a bit) and it's pretty bright there during day time. However using the monitor in my room I find myself even lowering the brightness because it can get TOO bright for me while it's dark lol, so definitely won't be using it for the KRP-500M.

Thanks again for the info though

You don't need it on the KRP500, i have tested and tested and from what I can gather it (only dims) at incorrect (clipping) levels anyway so it makes no difference if using the AV presets. An ISF mode raises contrast and ABL anyway if going for big FTL. It is a industrial/pro monitor and therefore is set up and driven very differently than the 5020 tv and didn't have to conform to usual television power regulations.But saying that the power restrictions on the Kuro tv's are minute compared to later Panasonic plasmas but obviously not the professional monitors like the VX etc. But the Kuro's go more accurate than the VX etc etc anyway.
Edited by Stu03 - 12/25/13 at 4:30am
post #14914 of 14945
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu03 View Post

You don't need it on the KRP500, i have tested and tested and from what I can gather it (only dims) at incorrect (clipping) levels

whats your brightness level with a 100% white window and a 100% white fullscreen field?

if you know that you will know how much it dims.
if you dont kow it you dont know how much it dims.
thats easy wink.gif
post #14915 of 14945
Well, it's been 5 years and 3 months, and my PDP-5020FD has finally died. Yesterday, the right half of the screen went black, with some strange artifacts / coloring on the left side. This morning I turned it on and there is sound, but no image at all.

I tried to dig thru this thread to see if anyone had a similar issue but found nothing.

Has anyone else had a similar problem and been able to diagnose it?

My understanding is that since one half went first, then both halves, that there's a good change it is the logic control board which I believe is housed in the Main Assembly (or possibly Digital Assy?)



Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!

-James
post #14916 of 14945
Hi,

These may seem like silly questions but...

Does the on screen Pioneer menu's do this as well ? - does/did it do it with all external sources also ?

Is the whole screen still black now... Did it come back on even briefly ?
Edited by Stu03 - 1/4/14 at 1:45pm
post #14917 of 14945
Quote:
Originally Posted by cwheel View Post

Well, it's been 5 years and 3 months, and my PDP-5020FD has finally died. Yesterday, the right half of the screen went black, with some strange artifacts / coloring on the left side. This morning I turned it on and there is sound, but no image at all.

I tried to dig thru this thread to see if anyone had a similar issue but found nothing.

Has anyone else had a similar problem and been able to diagnose it?

My understanding is that since one half went first, then both halves, that there's a good change it is the logic control board which I believe is housed in the Main Assembly (or possibly Digital Assy?)



Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!

-James

When you power up the panel, count the number of blinks of the blue power-on light. The number of blinks will point us in the direction of which board may have failed.
post #14918 of 14945
Thanks guys - when it went bad, there were no blinking lights. The screen just went black (right side first, left side a few hours later).

I opened up the back panel, and found what I think was a blown capacitor on the Y drive (one of the three large 250V 280uF ones). I ordered some replacement ones from digikey, but as far as I can tell, no one makes a 280uF snap-on capacitor anymore that roughly matches those dimensions. So I put in 330uF ones. Started the TV, and got three blinking lights. Put the old ones back in, and got different blinking quantities the three different times I started it up. 3, 4, and 8!

Anyway, I bought a replacement Y drive because its possible I screwed up something while soldering the new (and old) caps on. Also, all of those codes (according to the service manual) could be related to the Y drive.

I'll post back once I get the new Y drive installed.

Oh - and no menus work, nothing. Not even the source in the upper lefthand corner when you turn it on.
post #14919 of 14945
An update: I replaced the Y drive with the one I got online, and all the flashing codes went away, but still no picture.

Knowing that a service call is likely to cost a minimum of $200, I might consider replacing the power board for $100, but I'm just throwing parts at it.

Would love to know if anyone else has seen a screen go progressively dead on the Kuros (right half first, then left half).
post #14920 of 14945




here are some pics of the new 151 elite and to go along with the new elite is a ne Panasonic bdt500p and Acoustimass 10 series IV
post #14921 of 14945
rcapprotti,
You lucky S.O.B.

What I wouldn't give for a new 151!
post #14922 of 14945
don't call me a lucky S.O.B I like to yhink of myself as a lucky M.ferrrrrrrrrrr LOL
post #14923 of 14945
sorry I meant to say think
post #14924 of 14945
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcapprotti View Post

sorry I meant to say think
When you look at your posts, is there a pencil ikon in the lower right left hand corner? If so, you can use that to edit your posts.

EDIT: I just had to use it to correct my post. biggrin.gif
Edited by htwaits - 1/26/14 at 5:36pm
post #14925 of 14945
thank you
post #14926 of 14945
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcapprotti View Post

thank you
You're welcome. I have to do a lot of editing of my posts. I just did a second one because I failed to end my question with a question mark. eek.gif
post #14927 of 14945
Quote:
Originally Posted by cwheel View Post

Would love to know if anyone else has seen a screen go progressively dead on the Kuros (right half first, then left half).

Did you manage to fix this?
post #14928 of 14945
Has there been any cases of burn-in/image retention even with the Orbiter function on? I'm under the impression that Mode 2 effectively bullet-proofs the display from both (except for screen-spanning elements such as black bars).
post #14929 of 14945
Quote:
Originally Posted by Megalith View Post

Has there been any cases of burn-in/image retention even with the Orbiter function on? I'm under the impression that Mode 2 effectively bullet-proofs the display from both (except for screen-spanning elements such as black bars).
That's not my understanding. There is always a chance of image retention, but burn-in is very hard to achieve with or without orbiter.

I have a non-elite 8G Kuro 6010 that has never had a problem with IR. For me, a problem with IR is when I can see it while watching some program or movie that I'm interested in. I'm not a gamer. I've run the 6010 in Mode 1 with Dot by Dot, which means that there is no orbiter running unless I leave Dot by Dot for some reason..

Our set was recalibrated (new main board) by D-Nice last week. When he finished, and before he did his movie clips, I ask him if he could see any IR on the screen. He didn't except for IR of the very white square in the center of the screen that he had used during the calibration. True to the nature of short term as apposed to long term IR, the set had IR from the calibration, but if the source material is a good mix, it's nothing to worry about.

To think that IR, or even burn-in is impossible, may be risky. At least it would be risky for me. wink.gif
post #14930 of 14945
Quote:
Originally Posted by Megalith View Post

Has there been any cases of burn-in/image retention even with the Orbiter function on? I'm under the impression that Mode 2 effectively bullet-proofs the display from both (except for screen-spanning elements such as black bars).

Permanent IR can happen in Kuros. Orbiter just shifts the entire screen around by a pixel or two, so at best this is going to create a more "fuzzy" border between the areas that do and do not have IR. This might make IR less noticeable than having a less sharp border between the two areas, but it's still there.

I would definitely not count Orbiter as bullet-proofing from IR.
post #14931 of 14945
never had orbiter enabled on mine, if these sets are set up correctly, you shouldn't have a problem:)
post #14932 of 14945
In my experience, Orbiter Mode 2 can shift the entire screen by as much as (by my estimation) 20 pixels.

But Orbiter stuff aside, I think I'm going to have to stop watching 2:35 movies at their native ratio. I am starting to notice a very subtle 2:35 frame when the panel is displaying just a black screen and the room lights are off. I guess I have been watching way more movies than I thought. It's unfortunate that practically all movies are shot in this ratio, yet there are no real features built into plasma panels that will hinder the inevitable phosphor aging if no zoom features are used.
post #14933 of 14945
A few years back I remember D-Nice stating that image retention was not an issue with the 9G Kuros.
post #14934 of 14945
Quote:
Originally Posted by Megalith View Post


But Orbiter stuff aside, I think I'm going to have to stop watching 2:35 movies at their native ratio. I am starting to notice a very subtle 2:35 frame when the panel is displaying just a black screen and the room lights are off. I guess I have been watching way more movies than I thought. It's unfortunate that practically all movies are shot in this ratio, yet there are no real features built into plasma panels that will hinder the inevitable phosphor aging if no zoom features are used.
It hasn't been my observation that practically all movies are shot in a 2.35:1 aspect ratio. It may be true that almost all movies that you choose to watch are in that aspect ration. That might indicate that you mostly enjoy action movies.

Our 6010 has over 8,000 hours on it, and by far, what we watch is mostly movie. A little over a week ago I ask D-Nice to check for any aging (IR) problems after the set was calibrated. He didn't find any. Neither had I, but I wanted to check with him. The next biggest category of material we watch is sports (NFL and NHL) with their associated fixed images.

To zoom away the black bars for 2.35:1 movies will result in cropping a rather large amount of image from both edges, and the remainder of the image will be degraded from the Dot by Dot image.
Edited by htwaits - 2/13/14 at 1:17pm
post #14935 of 14945
Quote:
Originally Posted by superstring View Post

A few years back I remember D-Nice stating that image retention was not an issue with the 9G Kuros.
I don't think that he meant that it isn't possible. I know, based on his comments a few days ago after a calibration, that he thinks the 8G displays are "resistant" to IR.
post #14936 of 14945
I watch 2.35 movies, TV programs with logos in the corner, and play games. I never had a problem with IR or burn in. When I first got the TV I used the orbiter, but I stopped using it after 800 hours. I don't worry about burn in. The kuros are the best at handling it IMO.

I remember when I was playing the game Mass Effect 2 late at night and I fell aleep for like 2 hours, maby longer, at the pause menu screen, which looks like this-


505060-mass-effect-2-playstation-3-screenshot-mission-computer-lets.jpg


When I woke up I got scare that I would have burn in. I changed to a blank input to check and yep, all those bars you see in that picture where on the screen. All I did was run a white slide for about 10 minutes and it was gone. I only had less than 300 hours on my kuro at the time I was playing that game. But it went away easily. With over 2000 hours now, I don't think that would happen again.
Edited by saprano - 2/21/14 at 5:54am
post #14937 of 14945
Mass Effect has a notorious gaming HUD for plasma's - on the first one on the 360 i got terrible IR on the bottom right corner like a big circle shadow that took an age to clear on my first Kuro.

Estimated 24 hrs of gaming over a week about six or so hours a go.

Just normal contrast levels on game mode to it was - nothing crazy. Got resistant soon as though where ir would clear in minutes
post #14938 of 14945
A D-Nice recalibration of my unit (5020FD) that is VERY well used (13K + hours) yielded some impressive results which made me quite happy. Since the initial calibration some 5 years ago, the unit had gone fairly red, dropping around 400 in grayscale back to its almost initial reading of 6100 Kelvin in movie mode.

D-Nice took the yellow tinge away again (back to ruler flat 6500K) and got some of the other color errors a little lower as well. Most important to me (and what I was most excited for) was the black level enhancement: a threefold decrease!

.0012 down to a better-than-any-stock model .0004 FtL

Made a huge difference viewing low APL content in a dark room. As usual, DeWayne was very professional and courteous, answering any and all of my questions and performing the calibration in a timely manner. The two calibrations he's done have been well worth the money and I recommend his services to anyone looking (and his MLL technique is 100% safe- he doesn't guarantee the same results do to panel variance but all models in the 9g kuro line are capable)
post #14939 of 14945
I may be picking a lightly used 6020 tomorrow.
post #14940 of 14945
Cool. Are you going use the elite board?
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