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The Official Pioneer 9G non-Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 52

post #1531 of 14945
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave_6 View Post

Well atleast from what I can make out, the actual stand (the plastic part) is the same. Its just the metal L-shaped 'stands' are the only difference (taller on the 6020). In my financial situation, there is a big difference in just a stand compared to another $1000.

I may just leave it alone and move my center channel up to in front of the 6020.

You haven't seen the price they're charging for Elite stands!

If your center is wide enough, it would be perfect for covering up the stand. I'm drooling over a Klipsch RC-64 and that might just be wide enough.
post #1532 of 14945
I have the RC-64.. I love it
post #1533 of 14945
Quote:
Originally Posted by billybob0405 View Post

How much space is there from the bottom of the stand to the bottom of the display?

Its atleast 5" or 6". A good bit id say.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mycroft1888 View Post

You haven't seen the price they're charging for Elite stands!

If your center is wide enough, it would be perfect for covering up the stand. I'm drooling over a Klipsch RC-64 and that might just be wide enough.

My center (Polk CS-2) is tall enough but not quite wide enough to fill in the gap, but it will still look better than leaving the gap open.

I just need a new stand to hold all of my equipment that doesnt sit up so high.
post #1534 of 14945
Quote:
Originally Posted by aks434 View Post

I paid additional $85 for routing the power cord thru the wall.

That's not according to code in our area. It's a safety hazard anywhere, and it could cause you trouble with your fire insurance if you had to make a claim.
post #1535 of 14945
A few more pics of my new 5020 setup. Played Tiger Woods golf for a little today (720p) and it's unbelieveable. Watched a bit of Chronicles of Riddick on SD DVD and it looks so much better than my old CRT.



post #1536 of 14945
Just imagine Chronicles of Riddick on HD-DVD! Mouth-watering, right there!
post #1537 of 14945
Quote:
Originally Posted by manuc View Post

The 480 on the screen shows the resolution of the singal coming into the tv. the TV HAS to upscale it to 1080p because thats the ONLY resolution it can display in.

You could set the ps3 to upscale to1080p but the kuro may do a better job.

I have some questions about the ps3 settings as well.
1.) I use hdmi from the ps3 to the 5020 and optical out from the 5020 to my avr. When I play a sd dvd on the ps3 the avr seems to not get a 5.1 signal (does not detect dolby digital).

When I go from my old dvd player to the avr using optical directly the avr detects the 5.1 signal.

Am I doing something wrong or does the kuro not pass through 5.1 out of its optical out when the input is an hdmi source.

2.) Is it better to let the kuro upscale or the ps3?

1) Check your audio settings on the PS3 under BD/DVD. If you have it set to output sd dvd as PCM then the signal is already decoded and your reciever won't show it. The Kuro will also need to bet set to pass the signal as Dolby rather than PCM.

The result is still 5.1 audio either way. If you want to see it you'll have to set it to bitstream all the way thru to the receiver.

2) Don't know if there is any definitive answer on that yet. Personally I'm still testing that.
post #1538 of 14945
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aetherhole View Post

Just imagine Chronicles of Riddick on HD-DVD! Mouth-watering, right there!

I concur.
post #1539 of 14945
Quote:
Originally Posted by coukos34 View Post

I think this is FAR more the case with the majority of sets. People talk about getting "buzzers" all the time, but the fact remains, READ YOUR MANUAL! It clearly states that an audible buzz is completely NORMAL! All these sets buzz, every single one. It's just a difference of the owners hearing, typical volume level, and room acoustics. Its the nature of the technology...

I would have to say that is incorrect. At least in my case.
My 6020 buzzes pretty loud and my 5080 barely did.
Its is not a difference of the owners hearing, typical volume level, and room acoustics at all.
Both sets sat in the exact same spot, plugged into the same surge protector, and the same person listening, at the same distance. the 6020 buzzes about 15 times louder. I could only hear the 5080 if I stuck my head behind the set from about 10 inches away. On my 6020, the buzz is clearly audible at more than 16 feet away. I have a hard time considering that normal and inherit to the technology.
I have gotten used to it and it doesn't bother me much anymore when viewing a movie or sports, but when surfing the Net and there is total silence, the buzz is too annoying for me to bear. So I switch to Powersave mode2 when surfing the net on my PS3 and it totally eliminates the buzz.
post #1540 of 14945
You surf the net on your 6020? I gotta try that with my PS3, too!

That does seem abnormal, chad. My 151 buzzes a little bit, but it's REALLY not noticeable with any normal content. This is especially true when there's a sound signal coming from the rest of my system. I sit between 12-13 feet away.
post #1541 of 14945
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

That's not according to code in our area. It's a safety hazard anywhere, and it could cause you trouble with your fire insurance if you had to make a claim.

I know and that's why I paid $85 to put in special cable and a dedicated putlet right behind the TV. If I had got an electrian to do it, he would have done it exactly the same.
post #1542 of 14945
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinnie97 View Post

The alternative is to not cheap out on delivery options and go with the "white glove" option. No hidden costs!

well, 2 guys working for an extra 20 minutes = $150 . not exactly cheap.
post #1543 of 14945
Quote:


Killswitch, with that many bad pixels, you're better off exchanging the set. You have a better of a chance to have more dead/stuck than less by the time is all is said and done.

I will likely exchange the panel. With the break in running one of the pixels has unstuck it's self. I do have an iMac so if there's a widget to run that would be cool.

I just remembered that Creemail had posted something about a tool for stuck pixels call JScreenfix or something like that, I'll do a search and see what I come up with.
post #1544 of 14945
Quote:
Originally Posted by manuc View Post

I have some questions about the ps3 settings as well.
1.) I use hdmi from the ps3 to the 5020 and optical out from the 5020 to my avr. When I play a sd dvd on the ps3 the avr seems to not get a 5.1 signal (does not detect dolby digital).

When I go from my old dvd player to the avr using optical directly the avr detects the 5.1 signal.

Am I doing something wrong or does the kuro not pass through 5.1 out of its optical out when the input is an hdmi source.

I am trying the same setup. I connect STB to 6020 via HDMI, then optical out to optical in in my old Onkyo AVR. It does work but only sometimes (can't detect a rule yet). Most often my AVR displays Dolby Pro 2 for a source from Kuro (meaning it detects signal?) but AVR produces no sound at all. I am trying to understand how to force sound out in this scenario, tried different HMDI inputs, cables on Kuro, different optical inputs on AVR, different Power On sequences - no luck yet
I really want this audio setup instead of connecting STB to AVR directly because I want to use Kuro speaker - it sounds better than my Polk central speaker.
post #1545 of 14945
Quote:
Originally Posted by killswitch_19 View Post

I will likely exchange the panel. With the break in running one of the pixels has unstuck it's self. I do have an iMac so if there's a widget to run that would be cool.

I just remembered that Creemail had posted something about a tool for stuck pixels call JScreenfix or something like that, I'll do a search and see what I come up with.

Here ya go...works like a charm. If you are prone to seizures, turn away!


http://www.apple.com/downloads/dashb.../pixelfix.html
post #1546 of 14945
Quote:
Originally Posted by slavyan View Post

I am trying the same setup. I connect STB to 6020 via HDMI, then optical out to optical in in my old Onkyo AVR. It does work but only sometimes (can't detect a rule yet). Most often my AVR displays Dolby Pro 2 for a source from Kuro (meaning it detects signal?) but AVR produces no sound at all. I am trying to understand how to force sound out in this scenario, tried different HMDI inputs, cables on Kuro, different optical inputs on AVR, different Power On sequences - no luck yet
I really want this audio setup instead of connecting STB to AVR directly because I want to use Kuro speaker - it sounds better than my Polk central speaker.

The problem is probably related to DRM.

Don't you have a digital out from the STB that you can run straight to the AVR? That's the way I do it when I want surround with a Dish program and I just turn the volume down on the TV.

I'd like to buy a new receiver that handles HDMI switching, but I'd still need to have a second connection going to the TV because the spousal unit only wants to deal with the TV when she's watching her shows. So a new AVR would be a lot of money just to get rid of a couple of cables.
post #1547 of 14945
Quote:
Originally Posted by chadmak09 View Post

My 6020 buzzes pretty loud and my 5080 barely did.

Its is not a difference of the owners hearing, typical volume level, and room acoustics at all.

Both sets sat in the exact same spot, plugged into the same surge protector, and the same person listening, at the same distance.

There were only 1-2 reports that I can recall from the Buzz Poll thread where someone could hear it on one unit but not another. Peolpe tended to be in one camp or another (which led to such a lively discusion).

Since the arrival of the 9Gs, I think I've seen 3 reports of people like yourself who can hear the buzz on one set but not another. As we get more owners of multiple Kuros perhaps we'll get better numbers on this.
post #1548 of 14945
Quote:
Originally Posted by highheater View Post

There were only 1-2 reports that I can recall from the Buzz Poll thread where someone could hear it on one unit but not another. Peolpe tended to be in one camp or another (which led to such a lively discusion).

Since the arrival of the 9Gs, I think I've seen 3 reports of people like yourself who can hear the buzz on one set but not another. As we get more owners of multiple Kuros perhaps we'll get better numbers on this.

In my mind, it has been established that the buzz varies significantly by display
post #1549 of 14945
I've got zero buzz from my 5020.
post #1550 of 14945
Quote:
Originally Posted by chadmak09 View Post

I would have to say that is incorrect. At least in my case.
My 6020 buzzes pretty loud and my 5080 barely did.
Its is not a difference of the owners hearing, typical volume level, and room acoustics at all.
Both sets sat in the exact same spot, plugged into the same surge protector, and the same person listening, at the same distance. the 6020 buzzes about 15 times louder. I could only hear the 5080 if I stuck my head behind the set from about 10 inches away. On my 6020, the buzz is clearly audible at more than 16 feet away. I have a hard time considering that normal and inherit to the technology.
I have gotten used to it and it doesn't bother me much anymore when viewing a movie or sports, but when surfing the Net and there is total silence, the buzz is too annoying for me to bear. So I switch to Powersave mode2 when surfing the net on my PS3 and it totally eliminates the buzz.


chadmak, are you hearing a buzz from the panel itself or the from the power supply on the back of the panel? If it is from the back you might try to some noise absorbing material and hide it behind the panel. A decibel meter reading might help if you are making a case to return the set, especially if its as bad as it sounds (sorry for the pun). I hope you can achieve an livable outcome what ever you decide to do.
post #1551 of 14945
I had two 5010's and both buzzed loud. My new 5020 has no buzz unless my head is behind the screen. The 50 inch 9g's must have improved on this issue. My second 5010 is a April 2008 build and my 5020 is a May 2008 build, so this leads me to believe the changes in the 5020 result in the elimination of buzz.

Reports of buzz on the 60 inch 9g's make my assumption questionable. The 60 inch screens, due to their size are more prone to buzz, so maybe the 9g's fixed the 50 inch buzzers but the 60 inch screen are a whole different set of problems because of their size.

Just a note: I compared both the 5010 and 5020 in the same room and same set-up.
post #1552 of 14945
What are you guys using to clean your screen and bezel? I've got a couple micro fiber cloths and some monster screen cleaner but the manual says to not use any liquid's on the screens.
post #1553 of 14945
Has anyone used the room light sensor?

I have tried using it with the reference settings in different lighted environments to see if the automatic change in settings are visable in the settings menu. In a well lit room I went into the picture set-up menu to see if the tv adjusted the brightness and the settings remained the same. I am assuming you can not observe the change in brightness levels in the settings menu like you can in optimum mode.
post #1554 of 14945
I've heard many members say NOT to use the monster cleaner. Just use the cloth provided without using too much pressure on the screen.

Personally, I haven't cleaned my screen since I received it. I have cleaned the bezel a few times though.
post #1555 of 14945
Quote:


Just use the cloth provided without using too much pressure on the screen.

I've found that the included cloth has done very little to take the smudges off of the screen, that's why I was wondering what anyone else was doing. I thought I remembered people saying to stay away from the monster cleaner as well.
post #1556 of 14945
Quote:
Originally Posted by killswitch_19 View Post

I've found that the included cloth has done very little to take the smudges off of the screen, that's why I was wondering what anyone else was doing. I thought I remembered people saying to stay away from the monster cleaner as well.

I think the recommendation for smudges is to use a light soapy solution with a lens cloth or equivalent.
post #1557 of 14945
Has anyone noticed the weight difference between gen.8 and gen.9? I believe something major is missing in gen.9 plasma.
post #1558 of 14945
Quote:


lens cloth or equivalent

Do you know if micro-fiber cloths are ok?
post #1559 of 14945
I use a micro-fiber cloth and just a slight dampness. I have a spray bottle with just water in it and I spritz it into the air and wave the cloth in the water particles a couple of times. This gets it just the right level of dampness to remove smudges/fingerprints. If I were to spritz directly on the cloth it gets too wet.

Using this method, I was also able to remove the streaks left by the cleaning service one time. They actually took their dusting cloth and wiped the screen on my LCD TV! (pre-Kuro) Obviously they are no longer my cleaning service.
post #1560 of 14945
Quote:
Originally Posted by killswitch_19 View Post

What are you guys using to clean your screen and bezel? I've got a couple micro fiber cloths and some monster screen cleaner but the manual says to not use any liquid's on the screens.

Never use any cleaning liquid. That means NEVER.

Don't ever use soapy water either.

Use a slightly damp, not wet, micro fiber cloth to remove smudges. The micro fiber cloths designed for camera and telescope lenses would be best. Use distilled water like supermarkets have for steam irons. If you have a steam iron in your house, you probably already have plenty of distilled water.
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