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The Official Pioneer 9G non-Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 8

post #211 of 14721
hello evereyone, i am receiving my 6020 in about 3 hours and i wanted to know what setting should i use for burning it in? Should i just use the 8th Gen settings? and if i do use those settings what do i do with the ones that are missing (i.e. Detail and noise reduction)?
post #212 of 14721
Just use the 8G settings to burn in.

Btw, is there a way to swap out the bezel for something less shiny?
post #213 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by tn2005 View Post

... and if i do use those settings what do i do with the ones that are missing (i.e. Detail and noise reduction)?

Just skip them.
post #214 of 14721
By the way, BURN is a bad word where plasma sets are concerned. Try thinking of what you are about to do as aging the phosphors.
post #215 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by tn2005 View Post

hello evereyone, i am receiving my 6020 in about 3 hours and i wanted to know what setting should i use for burning it in? Should i just use the 8th Gen settings? and if i do use those settings what do i do with the ones that are missing (i.e. Detail and noise reduction)?

Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

By the way, BURN is a bad word where plasma sets are concerned. Try thinking of what you are about to do as aging the phosphors.

Yes, yes. I think you mean BREAK in.

Burn in is the last thing you want to do to your plasma.
post #216 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lowlands View Post

Hello All, first time poster on this amazing forum!
I live in the Netherlands and will become a Pioneer
PDP-LX5090 tomorow, i think you all call this the Pioneer
9G non-Elite KURO 5020?

I would like to know which settings are best to use for the first 100 hours (or more?)
And what you all can advice me to do an not to do in this
first breakin period?

Thank you all very much in advance?

Hey lowlands, you should be able to use the 8G settings and break-in procedure for the 6090, here's a link

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=858851

-Coggs

P.S. the Netherlands kick-ass
post #217 of 14721
kkgsxr, I was admiring your pictures again (read: drooling over them) and I noticed the second to last two (the two desert scenes), it looks like there's some vertical banding in the middle of the screen. Is that real or some sort of artifact from the picture?
post #218 of 14721
welcome lowlands as suggested by another member i would do that and if you watch tv just mix a bit of everything, its not crushal to run 150 hrs non stop but i would do it so you can evenly wear the proshpers (excuse me for my miss spelling)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lowlands View Post

Hello All, first time poster on this amazing forum!
I live in the Netherlands and will become a Pioneer
PDP-LX5090 tomorow, i think you all call this the Pioneer
9G non-Elite KURO 5020?

I would like to know which settings are best to use for the first 100 hours (or more?)
And what you all can advice me to do an not to do in this
first breakin period?

Thank you all very much in advance?

HDcanHD you might want to add the fact that you can ALWAYS upgrade from the 9g to the 10g IF you seen benefit BUT if you dont buy a 9g and you later find out 10 is worse then well your screwd and i rather be safe then sorry!
also i dont think we will see a plasma bigger then current size because pioneer already made a projector and the only reason for this merge is so they gain on the plasma market if they had no loss on the plasma for the last 2 yrs then the merge with panasonic would not present it self.


Quote:
Originally Posted by HDCanHD View Post

I'll give you five good reasons.

1) It's a long 14-16+ months until you can even think about buying a 10G Pio/ECC Kuro

2) 9G Pio's are 0.001 ftL, that's very close to ECC, some people won't notice the .001 difference, for others the difference, even if slightly noticable will be so subtle, it's not worth the wait without a TV for a year and a half.

3) With the change over to Panny glass, no one really knows how that is going to affect the Pioneer brand, now arguably the next sets could well be as good if not better than Pio's current offering, but there is definitely a perception of uncertainty as to what the change in manufacturing will mean in terms of the dilution of Pioneer's brand.

4) Like #3, this is your last year to buy Pio manufactured high grade glass. Part of the reason for the change over is because it's cheaper to do it Panny's way. This is your last chance to get in on the Pioneer manufactured glass which is a different process than Panny uses, and if I understand correctly is of higher quality than other manufacturers. (Caveat, no one really knows how much technology sharing there will be regarding the glass and Pio could always help Panny with their glass production but no one really knows yet.)

5) You could die before the ECC comes out, and you'd regret all those days you lived without a 9G as your life flashed before your eyes. Plus, if you're lucky enough to make it the next 12-16 months after the ECC, it will be hype about the next thing, whether it's 10-lumen, 2160p/QuadHD, wireless network integration, or other advances. There's always something else! but you'll only live the next 12-16 months of your life once!
post #219 of 14721
tn2005 you might want to resize them and thanks i like the new menu system and hoping that it wil be for the pro-111FD and ill delete my post eventaully good day oh and if you want to take night shots try iso mode
post #220 of 14721
tn2005, I have no idea how you do that but thanks for the effort and the attachments. I like seeing what the menus look like. Please provide more as you can.
post #221 of 14721
I just got my 6020 a hour ago. I am breaking it in right now and the hole in the box had no damage done to the plasma. thank god. i ordered from Robert of value electronics and i must say i'm so happy. thank you Robert. last pics until i get a real camera.

















post #222 of 14721
I'm curious, what is/what options are in "Screen Protection"???

Thanks for posting those!
post #223 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by tn2005 View Post

I just got my 6020 a hour ago. I am breaking it in right now and the hole in the box had no damage done to the plasma. thank god. i ordered from Robert of value electronics and i must say i'm so happy. thank you Robert. last pics until i get a real camera.

Congrats on your new set!!
post #224 of 14721
Here are some more.
Aetherhole, the last picture is for your question.




post #225 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by kyler13 View Post

kkgsxr, I was admiring your pictures again (read: drooling over them) and I noticed the second to last two (the two desert scenes), it looks like there's some vertical banding in the middle of the screen. Is that real or some sort of artifact from the picture?

Just the camera creating those lines. I can't notice anything like that when watching TV or DVD's.
post #226 of 14721
Actually, that has nothing to do with what the set consumes. That's the max rating of the physical power supply. Meaning you can have a display only consume 20 WATTS but have a 450W power supply and only go to a max of 100W... from a capacity perspective, there's probably 10% of room, so I'm guessing the max usage would be around 480W.

People tend to get scared when they see 524W... if the set gets up to 524W consumption, the set would be in trouble...

Quote:
Originally Posted by vvdd View Post

Thank YOU kkgsxr. This is what I was looking for - 524W. From what I know this is the max value with a white screen and all other settings to their max value. Thanks again.
post #227 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aetherhole View Post

I'm curious, what is/what options are in "Screen Protection"???

Thanks for posting those!

I just optimizes the settings so there is no burn-in.

Orbiter, Energy Save, Auto Size, and side mask-detection get turned on to limit burn-in.
One stop shop to enable all of those.
-kkgsxr
post #228 of 14721
As an FYI, my newly installed 8G(Yesterday) is in the neighborhood of 480 watts (currently running the Break-in DVD), with about 19 watts at both "standby" and with master switch " Off, but AC connected. Measured with a Brand Electronics AC Wattmeter.

The 8G label rating is 532 watts, so I'd venture a guess that you'll be around 470 watts input, depending on settings.
post #229 of 14721
Good to know, gsxr! Thanks!!
post #230 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by kkgsxr View Post

The strange thing is when I hit the # key it does nothing. It did before, now it doesn't do anything. I now think this is my problem. I tried looking at a dvd but it is hard to tell if it is overscaning. It is much easier to tell on the cable box. Any way to cycle thought the stretches on the box it self?

I have the 8300 and if you aren't getting any changes when you it the HD Zoom button you are in fixed output mode. You have to go into the settings and switch it to "passthrough" so the native resolution the channel is passed. The Panel should also be on full or dot mode.

passthrough will give you normal, stretch and zoom1 and 2 for all hd channels.
post #231 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by kkgsxr View Post

I just measured the back, yes it is exactly 1.5 inches and the HDMI ports are in another 8th of an inche. I have an HDMI cable from monoprice.com and it looks like 3" will be more than enough clearance for the cable.

-kkgsxr

Thanks for the info!

3" should be enough. Snug but OK.
post #232 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by kkgsxr View Post

I just optimizes the settings so there is no burn-in.

Orbiter, Energy Save, Auto Size, and side mask-detection get turned on to limit burn-in.
One stop shop to enable all of those.
-kkgsxr

I like that.
post #233 of 14721
Are the HDMI connections on the 6020 in a different spot now compared to the 6010?
I think I remember the 6010 having the HDMI connections in a differnt spot.
Were the 6010's hdmi conns laid out the same as the 5080. To where you had to kinda go "up and under"??
I wasn't too crazy about the way the HDMi connections were laid out on the 5080. It was hard for me to get one of my HDMI connectors
(a thick 24AWG monoprice one) in at an angle.
I really like the way it is laid out now. much easier for thicker hdmi cables
post #234 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by kkgsxr View Post

Just an update, I got the SA 8300 and the Pioneer happy, no overscan. I gave up last night and I unplugged the SA 8300. This morning it all worked great! I guess the 8300 was messed up and only a reboot would fix it.
Thanks everyone for the help.
-kkgsxr


Glad to hear, I was really worried particularly since you mentioned that it was working fine with the other set. I thought to myself that there was no way it could be the display, but then again, you never know till you try. At one point you would have found that out since doing at least one of those suggestions would have required unplugging the box. You would have found it one way or another.

Enjoy!
post #235 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by kkgsxr View Post

I think this says it all.


Wow, my 520pro Elite (rear projection CRT from 2002) is 325watts. So the new panel is about 200 watts more. So I wonder how much extra cost if left on 24/7 for a year?
post #236 of 14721
Got my 6020 today!!

All I can say is Amazing PQ!!

I can't imagine it getting even better after some break in....

Am I missing something here though,, Can't seem to find a color temp setting?
And no NR settings either? Not that it needs it though......
post #237 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thebarnman View Post

Wow, my 520pro Elite (rear projection CRT from 2002) is 325watts. So the new panel is about 200 watts more. So I wonder how much extra cost if left on 24/7 for a year?

who knows.
I have never really cared much about power consumption. I see alot of people asking about it and have always wondered how much more money the electric bill will really be if you get a hdtv that uses a good bit of juice.
Power consumption has never been something I took into consideration while comparing TV's. Should I be? If it is only going to cost me 5-10 dollars more a month I could really care less. Could it cost me more than that? Has anyone done any reasearch on that?
post #238 of 14721
chad please lets not try to make a debate lol but i would say i would Not worry for saving a few dollars if i get a fantastic tv, C'mon its not like you're going to run HDR brighthouse
post #239 of 14721
Quote:
Originally Posted by gus738 View Post

chad please lets not try to make a debate lol but i would say i would Not worry for saving a few dollars if i get a fantastic tv, C'mon its not like you're going to run HDR brighthouse

not trying to debate anything just wanting information. I have always wondered about the power consumption of high dollar plasma TV's like the pioneer and would like to know how much extra it really costs me in the long run thats all. Figured this is the best place to ask and since the power consumption issue was already brought up I thought I would ask.
If anyone has any info they would like to share on it they can PM it to me to keep the thread from getting offtopic.
post #240 of 14721
does anyone know how to get into the service menu for the 6020? D-nice?
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