The Official Pioneer 9G non-Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 107

I had trouble getting dot by dot to stay selected. I turned off Automatic Screen Sizing, selected Dot By Dot then turned Automatic Screen Sizing back on. Dot By Dot seems to be staying selected now.

Does anyone have details on what Film Mode is actually doing, especially in Advanced mode?

I assume the display switchs to 72 Hz when the signal received is 1080p24. Correct?

Does the display switch to 72 Hz whenever it detects 3:2 in a 1080i or 1080p60 stream?

I've got my 6020 set to Advanced and am very happy with the results. I'm pretty sensitive to 60 Hz flicker and see it occasionally but never during a movie (which is originally 24 FPS).

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...&postcount=837

It's the same guy on here. He watches TV's in Dynamic mode and compares PQ. It's laughable at best. I'd put all of about 0 stock in his words.

Dnice,

Any recommendation on what settings you'd change to add a bit more punch to animation? Titles like Cars BR/Rataouille BR/Shrek 3 HD DVD can certainly use a bit more punch than the reference settings in movie mode.

IMO. Optimum Mode with out of the box settings looks pretty good used with animations like these.

I purchased some CinemaQuest "Ideal-Lume" Panelights but I was disappointed with them. At only 13 watts they were not bright enough for my application. I thing you would need at least 2 sets for use with the 6020.

Here they are:
http://www.cinemaquestinc.com/ideal_lumesb.htm

So I picked up some Sunblaster T5 fluorescent lamps from a hydroponics store to use as backlighting. They are 2' long 24w with 6400K temperature. My PDP-6020 is wall mounted so I used some sticky back velcro (with high temp glue) to mount them to the wall. I placed the lamps vertically on either side of the screen with the bulbs facing inward (facing each other). They are about 5" in from the sides of the TV. This seems to give just about the right amount of lighting with no dark spots or bright spots.

I've been using them for about 3 weeks and they make a tremendous difference esp. when watching in a darkened room. Eye strain disappears completely.

Here's a link:

http://www.sunblasterlighting.com/t524.html

so move the couch closer or buy a 6020, an Elte PRO151 or the new Elite Sig series Pro141.

...unless movies were shot at 30fps (some Todd-AO or Showscan spherical 70mm films), of course...

-THTS

I have a few 6020's for sale in the market place / classifieds.

Thanks for the personal anecdotes and credibility analysis, guys. Still looking forward to getting a 5020 one of these days...

Aaaaaahhhhhhh. That's the stuff.

Matty

Nice.

I want to let any perspective buyers know, that if you plan to play games on these panels burn in is a major concern. I have followed the break in procedures and rarely play for more than 2 hours at a time (recommended in the manual). I also have all the screen "protection" options turned on, including the power save feature to lower the contrast of certain HUDS. Despite these precautions, I still have the hud from battlefield BC permanently visible on a black screen.

So, gamer beware. Anyone telling you that burn in is a non-issue is full of $h!t.

What kind of settings are you using to play games? Are you sure that it's permanent? Maybe you might want to leave some kind of video pattern running overnight to see if it works it out.

standard av selection
cont 20
brightness +3
color -3
tint R4
sharpn 0
film m advance
text off
energy save mode 1
orbiter mode 2

The images have been visible for more than 2 weeks and the game has not been played since. The panel also gets used at least 4-5 hours a day for normal t.v. viewing in addition I have been running a red, blue, green, white and black solid screen pattern from my PC for a few hours everyday.

^ Have you tried running a DVD or TV station that fills the screen with no fixed items for a few hours? This usually gets rid of image retention.
Edit: You answered my question with your edit. I think there are quite a few people playing games on these sets without trouble. I don't remember anyone else posting a similar problem, especially since you have tried what usually fixes the problem.

That's weird, I've done many very long gaming session on my 6020 with not a hint of IR and my settings are quite a bit more "punchy."

Me too. I play games like COD4 and Halo 3 for 4 + hours and I have not seen any burn in. How many hours did you have on your set before you started gaming?

I am planning to purchase a 6020 as soon as my house is finished in a couple months.

I am planning on wall mounting the unit using the Peerless SF670. I have found all the dimensions for the SF670 but I am looking for the dimension from the horizontal center of the wall mount plate to the top of the 6020. For me this dimension is required as the wall where the 6020 will be mounted is 24 OC, this wall is also a knee wall, so I am adding additional support to the wall.

Could someone using the Peerless SF670 please post the dimension from the center of the horizontal plate (wall portion of the mount) to the top of the 6020.

Thanks in advance.

Jay

I'm sorry to hear that, you might want to try to white wash the screen as a desperate last measure. I'm not done my break in period so I can't tell you how susceptible these panels are to IR but I've heard good things so this puzzles me. On my old Panasonic I'd fall asleep with static patterns on and things would be fine after a few minutes of TV watching and those panels are even worse for IR. Did you break it in for 150 hours?

I have a 5020, and I did a on and off break in procedure (tv viewing and break in disk) And i have played games for 6 hours with my buddy, and literally no IR or burn in whatsoever. I was actually quite surprised to be honest with you.

If this is true, this is the first report of IR/burn i have even seen on the kuros. Is it only visible when you switch to a blank input or no signal screen? If so, it is normal and not IR. In this no-signal case, the pixels just need to be refreshed with any content played for a half second or a power off. This should also really only be visible in the dark.

If this is not it, can you see at at all during normal content or only when looking for it on a dark screen? If you can't see it, don't worry about it as it is mild IR that will never be an issue when the tv is in use and displaying any normal material.

If so, are you 100 percent sure you have the orbiter on? What mode?

If the above all checks out, you may have a defective panel. If it is actually visible-with-regular-content IR, return it and get another kuro, as they are the best at resisting it and your next set will surely be better. In this case, maybe try a period of say the first 100 hours without too much gaming to further safeguard yourself. Or don't. It seriously is never mentioned as a concern by anyone here, so your grand proclomation of a major concern is quite false.

I stress that you should not go looking for problems though. If you really can't see it on content, why is it even a problem. Don't bother with a return, and enjoy the PQ.

EDIT: Missed the end of your second post. I think you have a defective panel. Nobody else here has experienced what you have, so i think that has to be classified as a defect in your panel. I have gamed for 8+ hours straight on my 8G kuro with not a lick of issues. My samsung plasma used to routinely do 4 hours (haven't tried more) with no issues.

Our local store won't get the 5020 any time now, but they do have the 5010 on display. how much brighter is the 5020 compared to last year's 5010?

By quite a bit if I remember correctly, I don't know the exact numbers though. I do remember it being stated that the 5020s were brighter than the 5080s which are already considerably brighter than the 5010s.

really? anyway i always thought that the 9g was slightly brighter. But thanks for the answer. D-nice, do u know y the brightness has improved so much over the last generation?

I would just like to thank D-Nice (and all the rest of you) for the excellent work he's done providing us with great settings and assistance. A couple weeks ago I took delivery of a 5020 from one of the forum sponsors. Excellent service from them and outstanding price. After letting the TV break in with the DVD and D-Nice's settings (with evening breaks for program watching -- but always in HD, full-screen mode), I've got one heck of a nice set. The picture is wonderful. I'm very pleased I splurged for the Pio.

Coming from a 48" Mits RP HDTV, I'm blown away by the Pio. I'm also thankful not to have to worry about convergence, focus, and geometry settings anymore. And on top of all that, my HTPC finally produces a great picture without 15% overscan and fuzzy text.

However, this place is going to suck my savings dry. Gotta keep up my work on self-control.

That's weird, because me and my friend have been playing quite a lot on our 5020FDs, with these settings:

Broke-In my TV with D-Nice's settings (150 Hours)
Dot by Dot mode for 1080p sources
Full for 720p
Even the Orbiter is off
Game mode with Game pref On

Playing Oblivion, GTA4, Fifa 2008 for hours didn't even leave a hint of IR, let alone BI !!!

The main reason I bought this TV is for Gaming, since I'm planning on getting a good projector for movies, I just don't like playing most video games on projectors & that's why I got the 5020FD. So in the near future I'll have some pretty long gaming sessions on the Kuro (can get up to 12-14 hours straight sessions). As long as I'm not going to do stupid stuff such as leaving the game on pause screen for long times, I'm pretty sure I'll be fine. Will post some more comments about video gaming on a Kuro after doing some more gaming on it.

What settings are you using in game mode or just game mode on default settigns?

Sorry for an ignorant question, but what are the advantages of performing the 150 hour "burn-in"? I did some video calibration checking with my Avia and Video Essentials DVDs, and the "Movie" settings were pretty darned good out-of-the box (though, not perfect).

Is there other benefits I am missing out on by watching the TV without the burn-in?