The Official Pioneer 9G non-Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 131

oh god! Best Buy nevers sets up there TVs right! HORRIBLE HORRIBLE looking displays. A buddy and I spent an hour there once with the DVE disc, setting up there large Panasonic HT display section. A crowd actually gathered watching, and the BB guys didn't stop us. It was fun and in the end that display looked WAY WAY better than before. As we left we switched it back over to "VIVID" mode like they had it

I bought a 6020 and leave SHARPENING at it's minmum -15 and that cleans up the EE on the DVE and AVCHD test patterns

Thanks guys for the information. My video card already support HD resolution and it lets me type in any form of custom resolution for either monitors as long as the total screen resolution do not go above like 3 megapixels each monitor. I can type in 1920 x 1922 or something wierd like 2400 x 500 if I like... 1080p is basically about 2 megapixels so this video card has no problem with it what so ever.

I guess I will try all feed options once my PDP-6020FD arrives sometime late next week. It is just a hassel to change any cable as the desktop is rather big and heavy and tucked away with so many other wires attached to it (because it also has a 16 track audio MIDI card attached to it)... I will post my findings here once I experiemented with both DVI to HDMI and analogue VGA, at all resolutions. Again, thanks guys.

A small update, I can see that the line is reacting on red backgrounds, the line isn't entirely light blue here, some pixels become red then return to being blue again.

Any more comments about the issue ? Do you guys think it's possible that it's a combination of stuck pixels and playing animation videos could possibly fix the problem ?

As others have already warned, the rocket scientists at BB are notorious for fouling up their in-store displays. Thus, I suspect the problem you saw was the fault of either the transfer or BB's setup.

The almost jewel like PQ my 6020 provides on BD movies, and even some HBO and Showtime movies, is awe inspiring. This morning I watched my recording of American Gangster on HBO. Wow! A bunch of the scenes were NYC street scenes filmed at Magic Time with the sun nearly set or just rising. They were simply beautiful.

I just hooked up an over-the-air antenna to my 5020, and my-O-my (jewel like contrast is right) it looks better than most of dish networks HD program (except for maybe HDNET and HD Theater) I watched the Ducks get crushed by USC on ABC.

Keep in mind also that this reviewer said he was using the Kuro Standard A/V mode instead of Movie Mode. A quick look at the built-in settings here shows that Movie Mode has DRE and ACL off which could account for the slight difference in edging. Movie Mode with -15 sharpness defeats edge enhancement.

Even in standard mode however he says that sharpness -15 was enough so that he could only detect it in test patterns. He also doesn't consider that the XX20 grayscale can be calibrated now for color tempature adjustment (using ControlCAL). It's a pretty good vote of confidence that he was able to use standard mode without any grayscale calibration and still rate the sets performance as well as he does.

1366x768 was the highest resolution I could get the set to accept over VGA. However, I did get a DVI->HDMI cable and I got 1920x1080. It looks glorious!

I have a Pioneer 5020. I got it I think back in June. I'd had it on preorder and got it around the time the first people started getting theirs.

Anyway, I happened to be standing in front of my plasma and noticed a pixel stuck on purple. I found an all white screen and can count at least 6 pixels stuck on purple total. I would say maybe 5 are in the top-right 4th of the screen. There is one on the lower half of the screen.

Now, 99.99% of the time, I watch TV sitting down. I can't see these stuck pixels at all while sitting. Still, I'm really disappointed this very expensive TV has these minor flaws.

Is this something that goes away? What are Pioneer's policies on replacing displays with stuck pixels? Is it covered under warranty? Does the 5020 come with a 1 year warranty?

Most people if they cant see from their viewing distance they don't worry as there are over 2 MIL pixels. You can run some animated Pixar DVD's and that might help. Also Pioneer can come out and take a look, usually their policy is 10 pixels so its your call if you want to try Yes 5020 is one year In Home

Being that I get a year's warranty, I'll just wait before sounding the alarm. Especially since I don't have 10 bad pixels, although I'm over half way there. In a couple days, I won't even think about it anymore.

Maybe by some miracle, the pixels will fix themselves. I'm not counting on it, but a guy can dream.

Happy days are here again.

I watched Chicken Little being that it is a cartoon. Still had broke pixels after the movie. I put in the break in DVD and like 3 minutes in, all broke pixels are magically fixed.

Do people out there regularly run the break in DVD to fix or to prevent stuck pixels??

edit: Pre-mature excitement. Went back to DirecTV and the pixels got restuck. Don't understand how this works. Break in DVD unsticks them, but they immediately get stuck again when I go back to DirecTV receiver.

So did you not notice these stuck pixels until the last few days, b11? I've had a 5020 for over a week (break-in complete) and haven't noticed anything suspect...I hope there's not a risk of stuck-pixel development over time.

Last night was the first time I noticed them. Who knows how long they've been there though.

They could go away completely but its up to you on how far you want to take it with Pioneer.

sounds like what they consider normal, from the owners manual

Never trust what you see in ANY display when you are standing at some unusual angle. If you cannot see the "stuck pixels" straight on or any any normal viewing angle, then you don't have stuck pixels. What you have is a refraction effect due to the cover over the plasma cells and the angle you were standing at. You have TINY pixel cells immediately under the outer surface of the panel... when you get off-axis, refraction does very strange things. The light is emitte "forward" from each pixel but you are looking at the light from the side, at an angle instead of in the direction you are intended to view the panel at.

Forget about it... sounds like you're just looking for problems.

Throwing in my two cents and settings. I don't believe there are PERFECT settings for everything out there due to variety of sources material. So, I believe in tweaking all these settings per the program.

Starting with the D-nice settings, I used the BluRay DVE disk and its provided color gels on a PS3 to tweak my 6020. I went through and setup every mode that allowed settings and most were basically the same - it's the background processing that made a difference in the picture... There WERE differences in contrast/bright settings of the other modes, but those modes stink anyway, so don't worry about them. Setting them all the same helps you SEE what differences those modes cause

Summary: my 6020

MODE: Game [or Movie]
Contrast: 38
Brightness: -1 [0 in bright room]
Color: +4
Tint: +4 [4 right, or 4 into Green]
Sharpness: -15

These look fine to great on my non-pro-calibrated, post break-in 6020, but I will not leave them that way. There were a number of compromises made to arrive at those numbers and I STILL don't consider them set in stone.

MODE: Game - I picked game over MOVIE most of the time for the brighter [bluer] look. It is also sharper than MOVIE for some reason. Per the chart posted up here previously, and like MOVIE, GAME has the least amount of processing turned on affecting the reality of the picture. I'll alternate between cold blue GAME, and warm brown MOVIE mode.

CONTRAST: Using the DVE to set contrast and bright, I noticed in some modes, anything past 41 "clipped" or removed some white contrast. In other words, past 40, I saw the lightest white box disappear, matching the higher white box - some of the contrast detail was now GONE. I could float between 35 and 40 without pinching off contrast. Bumping + or - 2 from 38 is barely noticable to the eye and seems safe if not worthless.

BRIGHTNESS: In subdued lighting, -1 was the preferred choice and it beefs up colors, but when I turned on all the lights in my place, I had to bump it up to 0 or +1 to still see the brightness test pattern boxes on DVE. maybe it's just my eyes, maybe it's ambient reflection, but again, source material can require manual adjustments to catch fine detail in the dark shadows.

COLOR: DVE gels were having me ramp up color to +10 to >even out< the "BLUES" in their test pattern. I've seen others post that setting so I know it's not just me. Although this looks GREAT while watching some things, it FEELS to hot in my gut and sometimes in my eyes. So I shoot for the compromise tween the pro setup of -4 and the amature setup of +10. I gravitate between 0 and +7 depending on the source, room lighting and maybe my mood at time.

TINT: The tint is partially affected by color [kind of obviously] and after long periods of staring through those gels, it seemed like they worked best when moved together. IE When the color was ramped up to 10, the TINT needed to be higher, like 7 or 10 also to counteract "Colors" effect and balance. Again, the settings on this one are pretty slight, so I was comfortable sliding it between Red 4 and Green 10 without a lot of messed up visuals or skin tones.

SHARP: just leave it at -15 and get used to it. I was able to slide between -10 and -15, with preciptable but not horrific edge enchangements, but anything above -15 simply ADDS stuff, thus bluring the ACTUAL resolution of the TV. I kept adjust tween -10, then -12 to -15, but -15 is really it.

Again, using the DVE disc and going through ALL The view modes [game, standard, etc] the contrasts and colors and such were all so close that using the same setting for all of them seemed fine and rational to me. That also helped SEE what the different modes do to the picture.

In the end, FOR ME, these are the SAFE RANGES when playing with settings:

MODE: Game 1st, then Movie sometimes [my personal pref as MOVIE was noted to be more industry standard accurate coloring]
CONTRAST: 30 to 40
BRIGHTNESS: -1 to +2
COLOR: -4 to +12
TINT: -4 to +12 [adjusted matching color usually]
SHARPNESS: -15 to -10

I also have the SD DVE disc and ran through its test patterns and it was pretty much identical and not worth noting here. I did that to see if there was any difference in the color pallet of the SD side. There was, but not enough to worry about or bother adjusting for.

This is the range I ended up with. I'm not a pro calibrator or even close, I'm just an average guy tweaking like many of us here. Right or wrong, perfect industry standard or not, that is what I ended up with that looks great to me. I've been using DVE for a couple years now and I feel it does an ok job as a "poor mans" calibrator.

I realize my constant tweaking per source goes against the grain of seeking perfection, but it's how I roll, so I thought I would just throw it out there.

Addition: Watched BD 2001 last night and the colors were too bright. Backed it down to 0 and it looked great. Go with your feelings!

Anyone have the grayscale calibrated yet on their 5020/6020. Does it really make that much of a PQ difference? Otherwards is it worth the cost of spending money on a proffesional calibration that i am going to get a wow difference? Thanks

Hey guys
I have the 6020 and sit about 10 feet away. Sometimes I feel like the scene is moving too quickly or choppy. Oddly enough, this is the reason i returned the samsung 58550. Is this because I am sitting too close? Other people at my house do not see it. I think I am crazy? Is the pure cinema modes only for when one is using blue ray discs? Do they really make a difference? I actually find things to be the most smooth with this option off....that being said, i am not sure if my eyes are just fooling me now because of my past experience with samsung. All of this aside, i stil love my 6020 --- just wish it was a little smoother. Any suggestions?

I'll let you know after this weekend.

There's a thread on avforums, people are saying that if you send a progressive source, and set pure cinema to off the screen displays interlaced video, and therefore halves the resolution. I tried between off standard and advanced and could not tell any loss in picture quality. also lots of consusion with pure cinema and drive modes.

Just had my 6020 calibrated by David Abrams a coulple weeks ago. My first impression is WOW! A lot more color than had been there before. When I first got my set I did everything I was supposed to: Break-in disk for 150 hrs., d-nice's pre-settings and post-settings on movie mode. One thing I noticed after all this was that movie-mode was a little muted in color. When I first noticed this I went on this forum a checked to see if anyone else saw this, some did. Others said this was the natural color, "you're just used to torch-mode","you need to get used to it". I believed them thinking what the hell do I know? I don't know what color the original director had in mind for this program! After calibration the color came back and "seems" accurate to me and Mr. Abrams. One other thing that I noticed was that the whites "seem" whiter. Before they looked a little yellow. Again, I'm no expert or claim to be but it seems that way. Is it worth it? Well, that's up to you. Do you like whiter whites and more pop in the colors, I do and it was worth it for me. I was on the fence between the 151 and 6020. Got a great deal from Robert on the 6020 and wasn't into messing with the color controls all the time. I liked the idea of simply calibrating the set and leaving it alone. I now am satisfied. David was very professional and answered all my questions. Great experience
Some other observations: D-nice's settings were almost spot on with movie mode!! Contrast +39, Brightness -1, Color +3, tint red +1, sharpness -15. Also my pre-calibration was around 6000 grayscale, post-cal. around 6450 grayscale in Movie mode.

Thanks for your calibration report. I've included it in the flat panel (Post#2) list that's linked at the bottom of my post.

I posted this in the 8G thread where it probably belongs, but since there are more of you posting here now, I thought I'd get your opinion as well if you don't mind. I have also heard this may exist on some 9Gs.

" Just discovered I have the dreaded horizontal "streaking" issue. I have never really noticed it before, have had the 5010 about 3 months now. I was watching "I am Legend" last night on DTV HD, and there is a scene near the end where the scene fades to a totally white screen for a few seconds, just before fading into another scene. The screen has very visible horizontal streaks that go from edge to edge, and are about 2 inches wide. They are interspersed with lighter areas, so that the effect from the top to the bottom of the screen is similar to the stripes on our American flag, just less perfectly straight along the edge. This is the second time I've noticed this on a totally white screen. It looks to my eyes to be the filter that's bonded to the outside of the screen....... like they didn't apply it evenly or something. I went back and searched on this and it seems to be a common problem on these sets. Anyone have a definitive answer? Is it the filter on the glass?"

John

I haven't had mine professionally grescale calibrated, however if you display grey gradiant screen and change between colour temps, you notice differences, so by choosing one already close to grey, then going manual a slight adjustment can be better. I knocked down r-cut and r-drive -1 each and overall it's lost the very slight red tint to the "low" colour temp setting. Also watch a old black and white movie in one of the preset colour temps, I found either slightly too blue or too offset beige, rather than monochrome.

Very helpful! Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by metallicaband View Post
Hello everyone,

My friend has a VERY weird issue with his 5020FD, he's getting a small line on right side of the screen (a few inches away from the bezel), here's how it reacts:

- Shows as light blue on a solid red background (very noticeable)
- Shows as light blue on a green background
- Shows as Very light blue on a white background, can't even take a picture of it with his camera
- Shows as black on blue backgrounds (it's like the pixels are shutoff).

Some pictures:

1- Showing Bezel




2- Red Background Closeup




3- Green Background Closeup



4- Blue Background Closeup



What we've tried so far to fix the issue without any luck:
- Changed display mode (Zoom, Dot by Dot, Full..etc)
- Turned off/on Orbiter
- Turned off/on Energy Save modes
- Through Option > Position , we've reset it to default
- Turned off the TV from the switch underneath the panel for a while, then turned it back on and it's still there
- Changed inputs
- Unplugged all cables connected to the TV (except the power cord), but the line is still there.

This issue happened just today, it wasn't there yesterday (100% since he immediately noticed it today on backgrounds that he has seen yesterday), he didn't change anything from the setting, nor did anything physically hit the screen. The screen was pixel perfect since he bought it (no dead or stuck pixels), it's really weird how the line just immediately cameup !

As you can see, we're pretty desperate here, any help would be Really appreciated.
A small update, I can see that the line is reacting on red backgrounds, the line isn't entirely light blue here, some pixels become red then return to being blue again.

Any more comments about the issue ? Do you guys think it's possible that it's a combination of stuck pixels and playing animation videos could possibly fix the problem ?

Hi i'm metallicaband's friend and i'm still wondering if there's any way I can fix it if it possible

Matrix,

Does it show up on all inputs?

Does it move if you zoom the image using the 6020's screen size feature.

Matrix Marty,

Chances are that your friend will need a new TV. My friend recently had the same problem with his 42" Elite Kuro and had it replaced when they couldn't/wouldn't fix it.

Call Pioneer for warranty support.