Throwing in my two cents and settings. I don't believe there are PERFECT settings for everything out there due to variety of sources material. So, I believe in tweaking all these settings per the program.
Starting with the D-nice settings, I used the BluRay DVE disk and its provided color gels on a PS3 to tweak my 6020. I went through and setup every mode that allowed settings and most were basically the same - it's the background processing that made a difference in the picture... There WERE differences in contrast/bright settings of the other modes, but those modes stink anyway, so don't worry about them. Setting them all the same helps you SEE what differences those modes cause
Summary: my 6020
MODE: Game [or Movie]
Brightness: -1 [0 in bright room]
Tint: +4 [4 right, or 4 into Green]
These look fine to great on my non-pro-calibrated, post break-in 6020, but I will not leave them that way. There were a number of compromises made to arrive at those numbers and I STILL don't consider them set in stone.
MODE: Game - I picked game over MOVIE most of the time for the brighter [bluer] look. It is also sharper than MOVIE for some reason. Per the chart posted up here previously, and like MOVIE, GAME has the least amount of processing turned on affecting the reality of the picture. I'll alternate between cold blue GAME, and warm brown MOVIE mode.
CONTRAST: Using the DVE to set contrast and bright, I noticed in some modes, anything past 41 "clipped" or removed some white contrast. In other words, past 40, I saw the lightest white box disappear, matching the higher white box - some of the contrast detail was now GONE. I could float between 35 and 40 without pinching off contrast. Bumping + or - 2 from 38 is barely noticable to the eye and seems safe if not worthless.
BRIGHTNESS: In subdued lighting, -1 was the preferred choice and it beefs up colors, but when I turned on all the lights in my place, I had to bump it up to 0 or +1 to still see the brightness test pattern boxes on DVE. maybe it's just my eyes, maybe it's ambient reflection, but again, source material can require manual adjustments to catch fine detail in the dark shadows.
COLOR: DVE gels were having me ramp up color to +10 to >even out< the "BLUES" in their test pattern. I've seen others post that setting so I know it's not just me. Although this looks GREAT while watching some things, it FEELS to hot in my gut and sometimes in my eyes. So I shoot for the compromise tween the pro setup of -4 and the amature setup of +10. I gravitate between 0 and +7 depending on the source, room lighting and maybe my mood at time.
TINT: The tint is partially affected by color [kind of obviously] and after long periods of staring through those gels, it seemed like they worked best when moved together. IE When the color was ramped up to 10, the TINT needed to be higher, like 7 or 10 also to counteract "Colors" effect and balance. Again, the settings on this one are pretty slight, so I was comfortable sliding it between Red 4 and Green 10 without a lot of messed up visuals or skin tones.
SHARP: just leave it at -15 and get used to it. I was able to slide between -10 and -15, with preciptable but not horrific edge enchangements, but anything above -15 simply ADDS stuff, thus bluring the ACTUAL resolution of the TV. I kept adjust tween -10, then -12 to -15, but -15 is really it.
Again, using the DVE disc and going through ALL The view modes [game, standard, etc] the contrasts and colors and such were all so close that using the same setting for all of them seemed fine and rational to me. That also helped SEE what the different modes do to the picture.
In the end, FOR ME, these are the SAFE RANGES when playing with settings:
MODE: Game 1st, then Movie sometimes [my personal pref as MOVIE was noted to be more industry standard accurate coloring]
CONTRAST: 30 to 40
BRIGHTNESS: -1 to +2
COLOR: -4 to +12
TINT: -4 to +12 [adjusted matching color usually]
SHARPNESS: -15 to -10
I also have the SD DVE disc and ran through its test patterns and it was pretty much identical and not worth noting here. I did that to see if there was any difference in the color pallet of the SD side. There was, but not enough to worry about or bother adjusting for.
This is the range I ended up with. I'm not a pro calibrator or even close, I'm just an average guy tweaking like many of us here. Right or wrong, perfect industry standard or not, that is what I ended up with that looks great to me. I've been using DVE for a couple years now and I feel it does an ok job as a "poor mans" calibrator.
I realize my constant tweaking per source goes against the grain of seeking perfection, but it's how I roll, so I thought I would just throw it out there.
Addition: Watched BD 2001 last night and the colors were too bright. Backed it down to 0 and it looked great. Go with your feelings!