The Official Pioneer 9G non-Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 272

Originally Posted by Jeff_DML

did you put the update directory at the base of the USB card, not the long version number directory? also read that PDF closely

Originally Posted by KCinWhitby

I don't know what putting the update directory at the base of the USB card means. The three files from the zip are the only files in the USB. I re-read the PDF and don't think I missed anything. (but who knows with me)

Originally Posted by Doug Blackburn

I'd be hesitant to update the firmware if I wasn't having bad problems with any of the items listed. There could be other things changed that are not listed... things you may not want in your TV, especially if it has been calibrated with ControlCAL. The firmware could reset the grayscale or do something else that blocks ControlCAL accessing the grayscale controls if you do want the panel calibrated in the future.

I'm not saying these things are in the new firmware... only that they COULD be in the new firmware and changing before knowing if the change is "safe" in regards to being able to have your TV calibrated in the future or to preserve the existing calibration... it would be best to wait until there's an "all clear" (i.e. firmware is fine) from ControlCAL or other trusted source.

Originally Posted by Nascar Dog

You need to create a directory on the root of the USB stick called update and move the 3 files into that directory.

Power off the TV
Insert the USB stick
Power on the TV
Cross your fingers

Originally Posted by Nascar Dog

You need to create a directory on the root of the USB stick called update and move the 3 files into that directory.

Power off the TV
Insert the USB stick
Power on the TV
Cross your fingers

Originally Posted by Andrmgic

I had heard that the Kuro sets made watching SD content more bearable, but I wouldn't dare compare a fixed pixel display like a plasma to a CRT.

Originally Posted by ChicagoPhil

Regarding ControlCal and using D-Nice's offsets, this assumes that all 5020/6020s come off the line within a very close tolerance to a standard, such that these offsets are reasonably accurate for all sets?

Is it accurate to say that the deviation from flat (500 or whatever the number is) that each TV starts at is the factory's adjustment to this tolerance of spec? Whereas the user menu adjustments are all based on a zero'd scale?

Quote:
Originally Posted by E-A-G-L-E-S
Just easier...
E* = Dish

Originally Posted by Dahlsim

Accd to D-Nice the Non-Elites are (were) manufactured to a +/- 5% standard.



I wouldn't think in terms of the RGB number as much as in terms of the electronics hardware. If the hardware deviation and factory settings (whatever they are) only deviate by a small percentage then that implies that the calibrated display values for one set should only deviate (in terms of final result) by a similar range from another set. Thus a good calibration setting for one set produce a reasonable range of results + or - for another set of the same model.

Bottom line, it's a free calibration.

???

Originally Posted by KCinWhitby

I don't know what putting the update directory at the base of the USB card means. The three files from the zip are the only files in the USB. I re-read the PDF and don't think I missed anything. (but who knows with me)

Originally Posted by Chacho

I apologize if this is not the proper thread for this post, but I know Buy.com came up recently because of their price on the 6020. I see that they are now Pioneer authorized, so I pulled the trigger on an order today. I'm hoping to gleen some info from those that have bought from Buy.com in the past. I got the e-mail below and it seems like a total BS scam to me. Did any of you past purchasers from Buy.com get this? I can't imagine you really have to go through this. Maybe Buy.com shouldn't be authorized if you are gonna get spammed after using them.


We are anxious to ship your order: XXXXXXX, however we need some additional information to complete the order process.

For added cardholder protection, we are requiring additional verification. To release your order, print out and complete the Buy.com Order Authorization Form located at

(Can't put in the URL since this is my first post, but it takes you to a form to copy your credit card and license and provide some additional info)

Once complete please fax back to (949)389-2827. You will be notified by email when your order is released.

Note: You do not have to place a new order. This order will remain open for approximately one week or until we receive the necessary information.

Sincerely,
Karen Carcano
Address Verification Supervisor
Buy.com

Originally Posted by gwsat

Unfortunately 480i SD will look far worse on an HDTV, even a Kuro, than it will on a good flat screen CRT SD set. I have a 6020 and its HD PQ is peerless. Nevertheless, SD looks about as bad on the 6020 as it does on my other two HDTVs. one a DLP and the other an LCD. It's a function of the garbage in, garbage out principle. The worse the source material is, the more its flaws will be shown by an HDTV.

Originally Posted by Sonnydigs

It certainly sounds fishy.. I would not give them anything...If they can't do it on the phone then it would not get done.. It would be me calling them so I know who I am talking to..
I had to call my Credit Card company and get them to authorize my purchase (6th ave) but it was all above board.. Something here doesn't sound right..
I would be very cautious.. Why would they need a license # ???
Sonny

Originally Posted by Chacho

Exactly. I'll just watch the other e-mail I got from Buy.com confirming the order and watch status on their website and/or shipping updates. I sure won't photocopy my credit card and license. I'd rather lose the TV purchase than give that info to someone on a fax!

Originally Posted by webdrifter

Hey Guys,

I know this isn't the right location for this post, but I didn't have a clue where to ask this question, or I should say make this observation about amazon.com. I've been looking at tv's on amazon.com on a daily basis ever since christmas, and I've been finding a lot of suspicious pricing. If you look right now for instance at the used & new price on the 6020fd and the 5020fd you will see the prices around $1000 under normal amazon prices. The low seller is someone called black sheep deals, and if you check their amazon.com store front you will find lots of other items besides these tv's. Every other item on their sight is so over priced that no one would ever consider buying them but the tv's are dirt cheap. I've already encountered this type thing three times in the past month. Amazon.com doesn't seem to have a good quick way of being notified when someone is trying to run a scam on their site. Has anyone else noticed this ? Sorry if this is in the wrong area, but don't want anyone to get sucked into a scam.

Originally Posted by iSSues

I'm thinking about a 5020 or a 52a750 lcd. Could I just buy the 5020 come home and pop in a blu-ray and watch it with black bars on top and bottom? Or will I get burn in?

Originally Posted by Sonnydigs

Amazon does frequently sell through other vendors...Around Christmas it was 6th ave, I bypassed Amazon and bought it straight from 6th ave, saved even more than Amazon was advertising it through them for..
So it is probably for real.. Call Amazon and ask them, they would be who charges you for it...
Sonny

Originally Posted by webdrifter

This one may be on the up and up but last month I was almost burnt on one that sounded very similar to this one. It was a LN52A650 priced $1000 under amazon's lowest price. I contacted the seller asking about the condition of the tv, and was told it was new never opened. I told them that I didn't see it listed on their store front, they replied they still had a few in stock at that price, and that if I was interested send my name and address, and they would have amazon send me an order for the tv. I sent my name and address, and before long I recieved an order varification that looked to be from the amazon.com website. On the order confirmation it had seller requests payment through money gram. I emailed the seller asking about this money gram thing and they replied that they were an international seller, and that was the only way amazon would allow them to do it. They were actually in italy.
I contacted amazon about this and they said under no circumstance would they or their sellers request a money gram. I'm a little leary now about some of the super low prices even on amazon after encountering this.

Originally Posted by ChicagoPhil

Just seems to me that if each TV can be +/- 5%, then a calibration based on cutting red and adding blue might not work if the TV in question is on the - side of Red already, and the + side of Blue... ??

Dish was formally known as Echostar.

Originally Posted by JJ7

A quick question on my 5020FD... is there a way to display whether the TV is getting a 24p signal? I just switched from a Sony blu-player to a samsung; the Sony indicated when it put out a 24p signal, but I haven't found an informational display on either my AVR or the 5020FD regarding 24p.

Originally Posted by BrownBagga

After months of waiting I bought the 5020 from an authorized Pioneer online dealer. Now along with a great price they are sending me the monster screen cleaner for free. Now if my memory serves me right I should never use this product on the 5020 due to the coating on the screen. Could someone refresh my memory so I don't end up ruining my panel.

Originally Posted by jvcjbl

It has been said the Monster Screen Cleaner has been "known" to damage the Anti-Reflective Coating on the Pioneer Plasmas. We use it everyday on our displays with no ill-effects... but I don't use it on mine. I just make sure to use a high quality micro-fiber cloth and wipe it down every other day or so to keep up on it... YMMV

Originally Posted by BrownBagga

Could anyone recommend of a brand of high quality microfiber cloth

Originally Posted by BrownBagga

Could anyone recommend of a brand of high quality microfiber cloth

Originally Posted by E-A-G-L-E-S

They haven't been out for two years...not quite one even yet.
But I hear 'ya.