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The Official Pioneer 9G non-Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 319

post #9541 of 14721
2/27/09 at 11:58pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by itr452 View Post

just wondrering if any 6020 owners can measure the width of the actual tv including the bezel

just bought one tonite but it wont be delivered until couple of weeks later when i move into my new place

Cheers

It's on the Pioneer webpage. It's listed as 48-17/32", also the same in the PDF manual. I measured it anyway, and that's correct.

For all dimensions, the URL is http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...0FD.Kuro?tab=B , but their website is down right now.

EDIT: That was the 5020's width.
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post #9542 of 14721
2/28/09 at 12:04am
whoops my bad i just opened up the pdf manual!

cant wait to hook it up, giddy like a school girl!
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post #9543 of 14721
2/28/09 at 12:05am
Quote:
Originally Posted by itr452 View Post

just wondrering if any 6020 owners can measure the width of the actual tv including the bezel

just bought one tonite but it wont be delivered until couple of weeks later when i move into my new place

Cheers

The width of the 6020 is 57-11/16".
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post #9544 of 14721
2/28/09 at 12:07am
Quote:
Originally Posted by sheedoe View Post

The width of the 6020 is 57-11/16".

SHEESH!! I can't believe I didn't notice it was the 6020 and not 5020.
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post #9545 of 14721
2/28/09 at 12:47am
Quote:
Originally Posted by PENDRAG0ON View Post

If I don't use power save mode 2, the 5020 produces way too much heat, enough that I could justify returning the set over it... << snip >>

What!?... Heat!?

Oh, maybe you're talking about something like this

I have a 6020 in my Living area (this is also my HT area), and this TV is definitely capable of substituting as a Space Heater. The heat generated by the 6020 is very significant, and higher than what I hoped for, but it is an even trade-off, based on Plasma PQ differences verses similar LCD displays in this size range. Pound for pound, plasma just uses more power and dissipates more heat than comparable LCD variants.

About 3 weeks ago, I replaced my 52 Sony LCD with a 6020. I tried to move to a 50 Kuro, but some guy at the Costco shipping warehouse insisted on placing my name on a 6020 box. Ever since this horrible accident, I have been adjusting the new member in my family.

The heat difference between these two TV's was quite clear. The Pioneer obviously helped heat the room better. The heat difference is not the biggest problem either! The biggest problem is definitely my evil and happy grin that loves the PQ of Plasma (Kuro 9G) enough to easily compromise on the subtle heat differences (subtle -or- significant, based on your tolerance and square-footage of your HT area).

Earlier tonight, my two kids watched Igor on Blu-ray on the 6020. The movie Igor has many mad-scientist who yell Pull the switch and they also laugh with an evil echoing laughter I handle the heat differences of the 6020 in a very similar fashion as the mad-scientist in Igor.

<< Imaginary hyper-link to mad scientist laughter audio here >>

It is my guess that the Kuro's have little or no difference in heat dissipation as compared to comparable plasmas of equal size. Please do not send me lab tests that prove otherwise, because my 6020 is staying here as long as I am alive. Or as long as it continues to look this dam-n good. Power Save Mode set to OFF -and loving it.

<< Imaginary hyper-link to mad scientist laughter audio here >>

Off subject notes:
Completed 150 hours of break-in images with a DVD instead of USB, because the USB slide show delay is a joke. The 7 seconds of black-screen between each transition/picture is a Pioneer Home Media Gallery (HMG) goof-up and it is shameful and a known issue to the limitations of HMG.
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post #9546 of 14721
2/28/09 at 5:18am
I have been running the break in images on the 5020 for days.
The room is large but I can feel the heat when I get close to it.
Is is consuming about 400 watts in torched sport mode.

I think part of it is the way the panel dissipates heat.
I cannot hear any fans running. It looks like the single sheet of glass permits it to radiate the heat instead which keeps it quite. I have a 657UY upstairs that runs four fans. It does not feel as hot in the front with an extra glass panel but it generating heat. It runs 200 to 400 watts watching real content. I would say it averages 100 watts more.

- Rich
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post #9547 of 14721
2/28/09 at 5:20am
Heat honestly shouldn't be a problem as long as you are in a well ventilated room. I'm guessing you guys live in warm climates, maybe time for an air conditioner?

Even in the summer here when it can get to 90-100 on certain days my computer(which is an OVEN) , TV, PS3, AVR, DVD players are all in one room. As long as the AC is on no problems.

If you think these TVs are hot don't get into PC gaming! My CPU can hit over 60c and video card is know to go over 80 plus 4 hard drives adding to the mix. All of this is vented out by 1 200mm fan and 2 120mm, now that makes a room nice n toasty At least heating is cheaper in the winter.
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post #9548 of 14721
2/28/09 at 6:08am
Quote:
Originally Posted by RichB View Post

I have been running the break in images on the 5020 for days. The room is large but I can feel the heat when I get close to it. Is is consuming about 400 watts in torched sport mode.

Did you use a watt meter to check it? (Back panel of the 5020 says 436 watts).

I asked yesterday in response to a post, but no one replied; do they put off more heat/consume more watts on a white image?

Is it safe to assume they will be putting off less heat when watching TV as compared to the break-in images?
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post #9549 of 14721
2/28/09 at 7:31am
OK I ran some power save tests last night, and the results were obvious and a bit surprising. Without Power Save being on, the set ran about 20% hotter, and the buzz was considerably louder. Having power save 2 on vs not having it on at all had little to no effect on an all white screen, but raised the brightness of normal scenes about 10-15% give or take various content. But thanks to these tests, I noticed something new, with Power Save 2 engaged (power save 1 didn't do squat for buzz) the set seems to be quiet for a few seconds, then the buzz gets loud for a few seconds and continues to pulse like that at a very consistent rate. (the buzz spikes every few seconds regardless of content, even if it was paused for a few minutes) certain colors make the buzz louder, but has no effect on the rate of the pulses. (Power save off doesn't do this, it just buzzes constantly at the high point of the power save 2 buzz) I have no clue as to why it does this, but I can't imagine it being good for the TV..... (I live in Missouri for those thinking that I live in a warm climate, it was below freezing outside yesterday when I did the above testing, the day before it was in the mid 60s, the cooler outside temp helped some, but not much. (I refuse to run the AC in the middle of Winter)

I have also confirmed that the splotches that I see on skies and other light colored camera pans, are not any residue on the screen and is actually under the glass, it actually looks like burn-in in a way, though I am 100% sure that it isn't. Just using that as an example as to how it appears on the screen. (first LCD or Plasma fan that takes that line and runs with it will not see any mercy) There are very obvious horizontal and Vertical lines as well.

I absolutely love the Picture Quality of this set and these small flaws are really killing me. Everytime I get mad at the Kuro for any reason, I see the absolutely great PQ of this set and it makes it very hard to hate on this set. I could try for a replacement from Amazon, but I had them deliver it to my office due to the fact that no delivery company can find my house (even MS couldn't find it when they were trying to confirm my address for my recent 360 RRoD, had to use my office) so any return or unit swap will be a pain in the arse as I have to re-pack it, load it onto a truck, drive it back into town (risking damage to the set) and then swap out for a new unit and do it all over again. (it probably wouldn't be easy to convince Amazon to pick it up at a different address)
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post #9550 of 14721
2/28/09 at 8:15am
Are you absolutely positive the TV is making the intermittent buzzing? I had the same thing. I thought it was the TV but it turned out to be the insides of my subwoofer amplifier directly beneath the TV making the noise. I wish I could figure out how to fix it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PENDRAG0ON View Post

But thanks to these tests, I noticed something new, with Power Save 2 engaged (power save 1 didn't do squat for buzz) the set seems to be quiet for a few seconds, then the buzz gets loud for a few seconds and continues to pulse like that at a very consistent rate. (the buzz spikes every few seconds regardless of content, even if it was paused for a few minutes) certain colors make the buzz louder, but has no effect on the rate of the pulses.
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post #9551 of 14721
2/28/09 at 8:20am
Quote:
Originally Posted by timothydog76 View Post

Are you absolutely positive the TV is making the intermittent buzzing? I had the same thing. I thought it was the TV but it turned out to be the insides of my subwoofer amplifier directly beneath the TV making the noise. I wish I could figure out how to fix it.

It's the TV, I don't have a sound system hooked up, just the supplied speaker bar. (and I even put my head behind the set with an all black screen to be sure that neither the content or anything else was causing it, and sure enough, the buzz coming from the set did indeed get louder every few seconds.

It only does this with power save mode 2 though, with power save off, it is very loud at all times.
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post #9552 of 14721
2/28/09 at 8:28am
Quote:
Originally Posted by PENDRAG0ON View Post

OK I ran some power save tests last night, and the results were obvious and a bit surprising. Without Power Save being on, the set ran about 20% hotter, and the buzz was considerably louder. Having power save 2 on vs not having it on at all had little to no effect on an all white screen, but raised the brightness of normal scenes about 10-15% give or take various content. But thanks to these tests, I noticed something new, with Power Save 2 engaged (power save 1 didn't do squat for buzz) the set seems to be quiet for a few seconds, then the buzz gets loud for a few seconds and continues to pulse like that at a very consistent rate. (the buzz spikes every few seconds regardless of content, even if it was paused for a few minutes) certain colors make the buzz louder, but has no effect on the rate of the pulses. (Power save off doesn't do this, it just buzzes constantly at the high point of the power save 2 buzz) I have no clue as to why it does this, but I can't imagine it being good for the TV..... (I live in Missouri for those thinking that I live in a warm climate, it was below freezing outside yesterday when I did the above testing, the day before it was in the mid 60s, the cooler outside temp helped some, but not much. (I refuse to run the AC in the middle of Winter)

I have also confirmed that the splotches that I see on skies and other light colored camera pans, are not any residue on the screen and is actually under the glass, it actually looks like burn-in in a way, though I am 100% sure that it isn't. Just using that as an example as to how it appears on the screen. (first LCD or Plasma fan that takes that line and runs with it will not see any mercy) There are very obvious horizontal and Vertical lines as well.

I absolutely love the Picture Quality of this set and these small flaws are really killing me. Everytime I get mad at the Kuro for any reason, I see the absolutely great PQ of this set and it makes it very hard to hate on this set. I could try for a replacement from Amazon, but I had them deliver it to my office due to the fact that no delivery company can find my house (even MS couldn't find it when they were trying to confirm my address for my recent 360 RRoD, had to use my office) so any return or unit swap will be a pain in the arse as I have to re-pack it, load it onto a truck, drive it back into town (risking damage to the set) and then swap out for a new unit and do it all over again. (it probably wouldn't be easy to convince Amazon to pick it up at a different address)


Why don't you try to convince pioneer to swap out the panel only, this might be more convenient for you. Pioneer will be replacing the panel on my 5020 due to similar problems to yours, horizontal splotches. Good luck.
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post #9553 of 14721
2/28/09 at 9:07am
Guys-Just got my 5020 on the wall w/ HDMI to Yamaha amp,please list all the optimun settings needed for great pic and settings for the best screen size for Bluray movies and regular tv viewing.
I'm not very tech savy and the manual is vague.
Thank you guys very much.........
rooster49
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post #9554 of 14721
2/28/09 at 9:12am
Quote:
Originally Posted by PENDRAG0ON View Post

OK I ran some power save tests last night, and the results were obvious and a bit surprising. Without Power Save being on, the set ran about 20% hotter, and the buzz was considerably louder. Having power save 2 on vs not having it on at all had little to no effect on an all white screen, but raised the brightness of normal scenes about 10-15% give or take various content. But thanks to these tests, I noticed something new, with Power Save 2 engaged (power save 1 didn't do squat for buzz) the set seems to be quiet for a few seconds, then the buzz gets loud for a few seconds and continues to pulse like that at a very consistent rate. (the buzz spikes every few seconds regardless of content, even if it was paused for a few minutes) certain colors make the buzz louder, but has no effect on the rate of the pulses. (Power save off doesn't do this, it just buzzes constantly at the high point of the power save 2 buzz) I have no clue as to why it does this, but I can't imagine it being good for the TV..... (I live in Missouri for those thinking that I live in a warm climate, it was below freezing outside yesterday when I did the above testing, the day before it was in the mid 60s, the cooler outside temp helped some, but not much. (I refuse to run the AC in the middle of Winter)

I have also confirmed that the splotches that I see on skies and other light colored camera pans, are not any residue on the screen and is actually under the glass, it actually looks like burn-in in a way, though I am 100% sure that it isn't. Just using that as an example as to how it appears on the screen. (first LCD or Plasma fan that takes that line and runs with it will not see any mercy) There are very obvious horizontal and Vertical lines as well.

I absolutely love the Picture Quality of this set and these small flaws are really killing me. Everytime I get mad at the Kuro for any reason, I see the absolutely great PQ of this set and it makes it very hard to hate on this set. I could try for a replacement from Amazon, but I had them deliver it to my office due to the fact that no delivery company can find my house (even MS couldn't find it when they were trying to confirm my address for my recent 360 RRoD, had to use my office) so any return or unit swap will be a pain in the arse as I have to re-pack it, load it onto a truck, drive it back into town (risking damage to the set) and then swap out for a new unit and do it all over again. (it probably wouldn't be easy to convince Amazon to pick it up at a different address)

Sorry that return/exchange is not a viable option for you. Really don't know what other solution there could be. Will Pioneer come out and diagnose the banding issues? I'm still not understanding the heat problem . However, the buzzing is a well known issue. I guess that one is the luck of the draw.
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post #9555 of 14721
2/28/09 at 9:15am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Plasmachick View Post

Sorry that return/exchange is not a viable option for you. Really don't know what other solution there could be. Will Pioneer come out and diagnose the banding issues? I'm still not understanding the heat problem . However, the buzzing is a well known issue. I guess that one is the luck of the draw.

I could return it, but it is a hastle to do it. I'm going to give the set another week to see if anything improves or if I can learn to ignore the problems that I am having, as the PQ of this Pioneer is really insane.
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post #9556 of 14721
2/28/09 at 9:44am
My 6020 just started flickering this morning. I tried other HDMI cables, inputs and devices.

No matter what combination I hook it up to, the picture flickers (goes black very briefly).

Any ideas? Is the screen shot already?
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post #9557 of 14721
2/28/09 at 9:49am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rooster49 View Post

Guys-Just got my 5020 on the wall w/ HDMI to Yamaha amp,please list all the optimum settings....

Click on first page, and scroll down to D-Nice's settings for pre-calbration. Start from there in Movie mode, and you'll get an idea of what is considered a good picture. Adjust to suit yourself, and your expectations of what is a good picture. Know ahead of time that those settings are meant for a dark room.
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post #9558 of 14721
2/28/09 at 11:29am
2 questions:

1. My 5020 will be delivered soon and I am trying to figure out my setup scheme. I will be using PIP a lot and want it to work with my wireless (Brookstone) headphones while on my treadmill. I know I need two inputs for the PIP, and plan to have one from my HD Comcast cable box and the other (a split cable feed) with a standard definition Tivo on it. I will need an analog audio out feed from the TV to the headphone base station. My dealer said that to hear both sources on the headphones when swapping the PIP sources, I will have to attach the cable box to the TV with a component cable instead of HDMI because the audio signal carried by the HDMI is digital and won't pass through the audio out from the TV to the base station. My question is if I use a component connection instead of HDMI will it have an adverse effect on the HD picture?

2. If I use a thumb drive for the break-in program, what size do I need and if I just download the files to it and plug the drive in will it automatically move through the various color screens? I have only used a USB drive for stationery photos and documents and not sure how this works.
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post #9559 of 14721
2/28/09 at 1:53pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by nirvanaman View Post

My 6020 just started flickering this morning. I tried other HDMI cables, inputs and devices.

No matter what combination I hook it up to, the picture flickers (goes black very briefly).

Any ideas? Is the screen shot already?

Cycling the power seems to mostly fix it, but after it is turned on again after being off for a while, the flicker comes back.

Anyone experience anything similar?
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post #9560 of 14721
2/28/09 at 2:24pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

No. Accuracy and "smoothnest" are two difference and separate items. PC Smooth has the smoothest pans but it is no where near accurate.

So, for accuracy, Standard is the winner for 60hz material? I always seem to pick out the judder.
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post #9561 of 14721
2/28/09 at 3:00pm
OK, just have to write this post. In three weeks, my Denon AVR 2309 will finally arrive, together with my Pioneer Kuro 5090, and the additional speakers of my B&W 6 series set (center, backs, only owned the fronts) and a subwoofer of REL (strata 5). Finally, the Denon BT 1800 will arrive the same day, as well as a bunch of Monster cables...

Can't wait to set things up, but have gotten some doubts. I can still change my order from the LX5090 to a KRP 500A, which has some additional features, the stand alone box and much improved menu's. No specfic need for the DVB tuner as I have a seperate settop box... Price difference around 300 euro's... any advice from you experts?
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post #9562 of 14721
2/28/09 at 3:09pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rooster49 View Post

Guys-Just got my 5020 on the wall w/ HDMI to Yamaha amp,please list all the optimun settings needed for great pic and settings for the best screen size for Bluray movies and regular tv viewing.
I'm not very tech savy and the manual is vague.
Thank you guys very much.........
rooster49

A good starting point are the settings listed on page 1 of this thread. Normally you can use AUTO for screen size except for the first few hundred hours where you probably need to use zoom to avoid black bars. Best to avoid the bright modes at first.

Start with the settings on page 1, then as your set is accumulating hours, spend a little time reading this thread. It is time well spent if you care to learn how to get the most from your set. Also look at the Kuro 9G settings thread. Sorry there is no quick easy answer. If you want the concise version, focus on D-Nices's posts. If you are not up to taking the time, just stick with the suggested settings on page 1 and you will be fine. Your other option is just to have the set calibrated by someone who knows how to use ContrlCal.
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post #9563 of 14721
2/28/09 at 3:24pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by GEE 04 View Post

thank you for the info!

Just to be clear, if you own a 5020 or 6020, there are no ISF modes in the TV and ControlCAL doesn't do anything but allow a calibrator to access 2 controls that allow adjusting the grayscale to improve the color temp and RGB "balance". That may not sound like much, but, in my experience, getting the grayscale accurate on those models is a BIG deal. Partly, because, if done right, the primary and secondary colors become more accurate even though there are no adjustments for them.

If you have an Elite model, the grayscale adjustments aren't hidden, and calibrators have access to another (free) tool that will enable ISF modes if desired - but there are a couple of additional tricks ControlCAL does that can't be done any other way... like make the peak white level higher for Pure mode than the TV allows without using ControlCAL which can allow for a Daytime mode using Pure.
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post #9564 of 14721
2/28/09 at 3:57pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Blackburn View Post

Just to be clear, if you own a 5020 or 6020, there are no ISF modes in the TV and ControlCAL doesn't do anything but allow a calibrator to access 2 controls that allow adjusting the grayscale to improve the color temp and RGB "balance". That may not sound like much, but, in my experience, getting the grayscale accurate on those models is a BIG deal. Partly, because, if done right, the primary and secondary colors become more accurate even though there are no adjustments for them.

If you have an Elite model, the grayscale adjustments aren't hidden, and calibrators have access to another (free) tool that will enable ISF modes if desired - but there are a couple of additional tricks ControlCAL does that can't be done any other way... like make the peak white level higher for Pure mode than the TV allows without using ControlCAL which can allow for a Daytime mode using Pure.

thank you for the detailed info! much appreciated!!!
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post #9565 of 14721
2/28/09 at 4:35pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by PENDRAG0ON View Post

It's the TV, I don't have a sound system hooked up, just the supplied speaker bar. (and I even put my head behind the set with an all black screen to be sure that neither the content or anything else was causing it, and sure enough, the buzz coming from the set did indeed get louder every few seconds.

It only does this with power save mode 2 though, with power save off, it is very loud at all times.

I am waiting for my 5020FD from Amazon, if mine exhibits similar problems, it's going back the next day and I am just gonna suck it up and get a Sony LCD.

PENDRAG0ON, thanks for the updates so far.
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post #9566 of 14721
2/28/09 at 7:55pm
Unbelievable. I just got my Pioneer BDP-09FD blu-ray player and hooked it up with my uncalibrated 6020. I put in the bluray "ThePatriot" disc. Even before calibration I can honestlly say that I have no intention of ever buying a movie ticket again! After calibration, who knows? I suspect by workout program is about to suffer big time.

Why have I not calibrated it yet? It turns out that my Keyspan USB to Serial adapter has a male end. Unfortunately, so does the 6020. Makes for tough connection. Please no gay electronics jokes.
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post #9567 of 14721
2/28/09 at 9:58pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by PENDRAG0ON View Post

OK I ran some power save tests last night, and the results were obvious and a bit surprising. Without Power Save being on, the set ran about 20% hotter, and the buzz was considerably louder. Having power save 2 on vs not having it on at all had little to no effect on an all white screen, but raised the brightness of normal scenes about 10-15% give or take various content. But thanks to these tests, I noticed something new, with Power Save 2 engaged (power save 1 didn't do squat for buzz) the set seems to be quiet for a few seconds, then the buzz gets loud for a few seconds and continues to pulse like that at a very consistent rate. (the buzz spikes every few seconds regardless of content, even if it was paused for a few minutes) certain colors make the buzz louder, but has no effect on the rate of the pulses. (Power save off doesn't do this, it just buzzes constantly at the high point of the power save 2 buzz) I have no clue as to why it does this, but I can't imagine it being good for the TV..... (I live in Missouri for those thinking that I live in a warm climate, it was below freezing outside yesterday when I did the above testing, the day before it was in the mid 60s, the cooler outside temp helped some, but not much. (I refuse to run the AC in the middle of Winter)

I have also confirmed that the splotches that I see on skies and other light colored camera pans, are not any residue on the screen and is actually under the glass, it actually looks like burn-in in a way, though I am 100% sure that it isn't. Just using that as an example as to how it appears on the screen. (first LCD or Plasma fan that takes that line and runs with it will not see any mercy) There are very obvious horizontal and Vertical lines as well.

I absolutely love the Picture Quality of this set and these small flaws are really killing me. Everytime I get mad at the Kuro for any reason, I see the absolutely great PQ of this set and it makes it very hard to hate on this set. I could try for a replacement from Amazon, but I had them deliver it to my office due to the fact that no delivery company can find my house (even MS couldn't find it when they were trying to confirm my address for my recent 360 RRoD, had to use my office) so any return or unit swap will be a pain in the arse as I have to re-pack it, load it onto a truck, drive it back into town (risking damage to the set) and then swap out for a new unit and do it all over again. (it probably wouldn't be easy to convince Amazon to pick it up at a different address)


I have to stop looking at these forums...your post had me thinking I was seeing banding on my set, but I was thankfully able to disprove it. The set looks perfect to me, but every time I read a post about a problem someone has or something negative they notice, I start to notice it too and it drives me crazy. My set buzzes too btw and it does go away in Power Save 2...but I've learned to live with it even with power save off...I can't hear it with the sound up.
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post #9568 of 14721
2/28/09 at 11:55pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by gosox13 View Post

2 questions:

1. My 5020 will be delivered soon and I am trying to figure out my setup scheme. I will be using PIP a lot and want it to work with my wireless (Brookstone) headphones while on my treadmill. I know I need two inputs for the PIP, and plan to have one from my HD Comcast cable box and the other (a split cable feed) with a standard definition Tivo on it.

You can't use two external sources for PiP. "The multi-screen function is unavailable when viewing source from a single input or from two external input sources." And if I would have realized that before I got mine, I wouldn't have bought it. This means you have to use the internal tuner, which is going to be analog SD because there's so few DTV channels on basic cable.


Quote:
2. If I use a thumb drive for the break-in program, what size do I need and if I just download the files to it and plug the drive in will it automatically move through the various color screens? I have only used a USB drive for stationery photos and documents and not sure how this works.

Size doesn't matter (did I say that?) because all the images are only about 500k. The slideshow won't start automatically. The HMG will open up automatically then you select an image ("enter" on the remote) and it will display. Then you have to go into Tools (button on remote) and select "Slideshow", select the duration of 30 sec. and "Repeat all". I can't remember the other slideshow settings but they should be "Off".
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post #9569 of 14721
3/1/09 at 12:16am
well i just return my 6020FD Back to Best Buy, the only think i like about this set is the blacks and the 60", to me this TV Is to Dim, day time view for me is horrible on this TV i have a few windows whit lake view i don't really want close it on day time so i can enjoy a movie, i have to wait for night time to really enjoy a movie i don't see any picture pop on this set, for more that i try to like i just cant

so i just return and brought a XBR7 i know i wont have the same blacks but i can live whit that
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post #9570 of 14721
3/1/09 at 1:00am
Quote:
Originally Posted by RichB View Post

I have been running the break in images on the 5020 for days. The room is large but I can feel the heat when I get close to it. Is is consuming about 400 watts in torched sport mode.

Did you use a watt meter to check it? (Back panel of the 5020 says 436 watts).

I asked yesterday in response to a post, but no one replied; do they put off more heat/consume more watts on a white image?

Is it safe to assume they will be putting off less heat when watching TV as compared to the break-in images?
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