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2008 Samsung HLxxA650 DLP Owners Thread/FAQ - Page 20

post #571 of 851
The Lady I talked to sounded like she didn't have a clue she did not know what a calibration even was,put me on hold for 10min before she came back and said it would void the waranty. Really what would it matter what your settings where if something mechanical goes wrong with your TV.
Upon further examination of some threads I think I'll get the DVE Calibration disk off ebay $19.00
post #572 of 851
Thread Starter 
Yeah I agree with the other guys, this woman just wanted to get you off the line. Maybe she put you on hold and took a break then asked someone else and got that answer. Or read it from some script they use. Anyway, Samsung would not void the warranty over a professional calibration. Maybe she thought you were going in to the service menu yourself and would screw things up. They may routinely discourage people from doing that and I don't blame them. Still, it would be hard for Samsung to not honor the warranty.

The DVE HD Basics is a good disc. I have the HD DVD version and expect the BD version to be just as good to get your feet wet adjusting your set. Of course a true calibration by a real pro will be much better but you may find you're happy with what you can do.
post #573 of 851
Well, I finally got my HL50A650 replacement set from Best Buy yesterday. SO far, so good, but I'm not overly impressed. There is basically no quality difference between this model and my HLR5078. If anything, the 5078 might have been a nod better.

On the 5078, the SSE was barely noticeable at all. on the A650, it is very noticeable in a dark room with a brightly light scene (lots of sky, or fields of white). It's not as bad when the room is lit. I think it is much worse than on the 5078.

I think the focus is off slightly, so I may try to dig into doing the ring focus tonight to see if I can improve it a little.

Geometry was good. Less than 1/8" SAG across the top and a smidge under 1/4" hourglassing on 4:3 material.

For my settings, I used most of what others used here (Movie, Warm2, sRGB, Gamma -3, etc.). After running DVE HD and adjusting several times, I finally ended up with:

Contrast of 85
Brightness 42
Sharpness 10
Color 43
G50/R50

Technically, noise disappeared from black at brightness 44, but blacks still looked too washed out, so I bumped it down a couple of notches (just until the BTB bars disappeared). This greatly improved black level to me with only very minor loss of shadow detail.

I could also increase contrast all the way up to 100 and my white bar test pattern never blended. However, the eye strain was huge. Also, I detected a red push to the gray scale. The red push didn't disappear until I hit 89. I have a D6500K reference light, and I used that to further adjust contrast until 100% white appeared to match my D6500K reference, which took me down to 85.

Honestly, sharpness didn't appear to do anything. 0,10, 20, I couldn't see a difference. On my old set, it was set to 0 by Avical, so I chopped it in half to 10 on this set, and may run it down to zero eventually.

My blue color filter showed that color was off just a smidge.

I left it at G50/R50 for now, because I was experiencing too much eye fatigue at this point. Watching some demo material, I think I detected a slight smidge of green push, so once my eyes are rested, I will go back with my color filters and probably end up at G49 or G48, and may need to readjust color then.

But with these settings, I couldn't tell much of a difference between my Avical calibrated 5078 and this unit (other than a slightly soft focus). The only other thing I may try is adjusting the contrast down a little. I never experienced any eye fatigue from extended bright white scenes on my 5078 after calibration, but on the A650, it was bugging my eyes last night.

Of couse, I had just spent two hours looking at test patterns and reference lights, so I am going to revisit it a little tonight with fresh eyes.
post #574 of 851
Quote:
Originally Posted by wnorris View Post

There is basically no quality difference between this model and my HLR5078. If anything, the 5078 might have been a nod better.

I also went from an HLR-5678 to the A650 and my experience is just the opposite. I find a distinctly improved overall quality of the display PQ with the A650. With my HL-R (currently in the basement), I was constantly tweaking to improve black without getting something similar to SSE and also fighting the red push with all media. With my A650, I still have not calibrated it because after a few user menu adjustments and a couple of initial tests, it was pretty much on standard in Movie mode. I still plan to calibrate it (DIY) but I'm not in a hurry.

I have not seen any SSE on this set. There still seems to be a bit of red push especially on commercial TV (not on DVDs) but I firgure that, for the most part, it is a source issue. Geometry is a bit off but I only see it with a grid up and a bit with a 4:3 format (bowing 1/16 to 1/8th "). However, if I watch the content and not the bars, I do not notice it. The spouse does not see it even when I point it out. She says I'm nuts and there is nothing wrong with the picture.

Overall, my settings are very similar to yours (sorry, no magic bullet). The contrast adjustment specifying blending of the white bars is not appropriate and does not work for these dlp units (or most recent TVs regardless of technlogy). You are better off adjusting contrast as high as possible without getting color in white pattern. But as you noticed, this can cause eye fatigue. Alternatively, if you have a light measuring device, adjust contrast to give a light output of 35 to 40 ft-lamberts. It might seem a little dark at first but that's what the pro calibrators recommend for a semi-light controlled room. Also, a lower light output does mitigate SSE.

Sorry I can not be of help eliminating the specific issues you've posted. This post is just to point out the variability in these sets (as you have experienced) and that some might require more work than others to get to your liking. As an example, this is my 4th A650. I returned the first three for geometry, a bad input and lastly, I wanted one with a later version of the firmware. FWIW and good luck.
post #575 of 851
Thread Starter 
Hope you can get yours tweaked to where you like it, wnorris. Like you, there's only so much I could do in a long session. I wasn't satisfied the first couple days but soon after found settings that yielded an impressive picture that even friends with recent flat panels comment favorably about. Good luck with yours!
post #576 of 851
I know the HL56A650 states that it is 3D ready. Does that mean I need to set that option to be able to see the 3D commercials in the Superbowl tonight? I'm assuming I would still need the classes though?
post #577 of 851
Thread Starter 
No, that'll be regular ol' 3D today. Same stuff when you watched Gorilla At Large and House of Wax. The new technology requires much more than glasses but your A650 should be ready for it when you are.
post #578 of 851
I believe that these are 2 different 3-D capabilities. Anyone watching the super bowl should be able to see the commercials, regardless of their set (with the glasses of course.) The samsung has an advanced 3-D capability that requires interaction of a PC. At least that is how I understand it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fins11 View Post

I know the HL56A650 states that it is 3D ready. Does that mean I need to set that option to be able to see the 3D commercials in the Superbowl tonight? I'm assuming I would still need the classes though?
post #579 of 851
Thread Starter 
From the FAQ:

Does this set support Samsung's DLP® 3-D television?
Yes, the Series 6 and Series 7 both support this feature that was introduced in Samsung's 2007 DLPs There are special jacks on the side to connect the extra hardware and PC. For more info see: http://product.samsung.com/dlp3d/index.html and http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1032892
post #580 of 851
Thread Starter 
Whoops! The Samsung DLP 3D link is broken. Another bad sign for DLP...
post #581 of 851
post #582 of 851
Thread Starter 
Thanks, K! Fixed the link in the FAQ...
post #583 of 851
Thread Starter 
While helping a friend look at TVs over the weekend I had to see what left on the shelves as far as DLPs. We tried Best Buy, Circuit City, RC Willey, Sears and Costco. Not much for Samsung, that's for sure. I saw only two A650s, a 72" and 56" - both floor demos. And saw each size of the A750, again floor models. Couldn't find even one Samsung DLP NIB in town but there were plenty of Mitsubishis. Some Costcos may still have the HL67A510 but that's got to be hit or miss too.

So online is your best chance for a new Sammy DLP. I noticed Amazon still has some as of today. If you want one better not wait any longer!
post #584 of 851
I happened to find the hl56a650 on craigslist used for my brother. We're going to check it out tomorrow. Its actually a business and he says like new we'll see?
post #585 of 851
Whats the deal with the HDMI 1.3?? Does it pay to get them or not?
post #586 of 851
Thread Starter 
I assume you're talking about which cables to buy? Then yes, get 1.3 but you don't need to pay a fortune for Monster. There are plenty of good deals for 6' HDMI, like at monoprice, Amazon or ebay for less than $10.

For more on the spec:
http://www.hdmi.org/learningcenter/faq.aspx#15
post #587 of 851
I have original HDMI cables.

Is there going to be a big difference in the picture with the 1.3??

What I saw on hdmi.org is, there is not much diff. unless your using Bray or PS3. I dont have either or if your using long cords which I am not.

The TV works with "some" of the features?

Is there specific settings for the TV to use "some" of the features?

Does Dish Network take advantage of "some" of the features?

Does the XBOX 360 look better with them?

I got 2 for twenty bucks... I dont want to get my hopes up for something that isnt really going to look much different.
post #588 of 851
Thread Starter 
You don't say which cables you bought but try them and see if they work ok. If you got them recently they should be 1.3.
post #589 of 851
Don't know if anybody is still lurking around this thread, but just wanted to say that the NCAA basketball tournament has NEVER looked better than it does on my 72-inches of Samsung DLP glory. Only problem is, I have no desire to go out with my friends to bars with tiny screens. This is awesome.
post #590 of 851
Thread Starter 
Oops, I missed this... sorry Sangs!

Anyway, not any action in this thread as you know but I agree, it's been great watching March Madness and now we'll get to watch the Final Four. The Arnold Palmer tournament last week was amazing too. Still love this TV even though everyone else is going with flat panels.

My son-in-law got a Samsung LN52A650 but he admits that the DLP version of the A650 looks better than his LCD.
post #591 of 851
Hey guys. My father is thinking about purchasing this tv. The 72" model. I know nothing about DLP. The price is $2,099 and $119 for shipping. It also comes with $100 rebate and matching stand for free. Good deal? He currently owns a Samsung LN-T3253H lcd tv. It would be quite the upgrade screen size wise. I understand this is not the LED version of this tv. But they do not make it in the 72" version. Which is what he wants. The biggest possible and best bang for the buck. I also understand Samsung will stop making DLP. Are you guys happy with the purchase? Do you suggest a extended warranty right before the year is up? He took 1 out through Samsung 3 year extended warranty on the current tv he has. He wanted to purchase it last night and asked what I thought. I told him to hold off and let me ask AVS. I trust the opinions on this site as a lot of people on here are extremely knowledgeable with this stuff.
post #592 of 851
Thread Starter 
KoRn, the A650 is a fine TV, most of us here love ours. The biggest issue with this DLP is the black level, it could be better but honestly I don't find it to be a big problem myself.

Check out the FAQ and this review of the 61" model, it applies to the 72 as well:
http://hometheatermag.com/rearprojec...ojection_hdtv/
post #593 of 851
Thanks for that review. Calibration wise. What is the going rate to get this tv calibrated by a professional? I am in the Grants Pass, OR area. Is using Movie mode the best mode to use until it can get calibrated?
post #594 of 851
Thread Starter 
Yep, try the settings here in the FAQ, HT's are also listed there.

Calibration should cost about the same as other HDTVs.
post #595 of 851
Hello,
I have the HL56A650.
I didn't have any problems with my cable box or PS3 - these look fine.

First about my PC: I am using Windows XP and ATI Radeon 1900XT. I'm not opposed to buying a new videocard if that would help my problem. I would like to try 3D glasses with my TV later. Do you need an nVidia card for that?

First of all, I had a lot of problems trying to use the component video function of my videocard. The TV will not display anything other than 640x480 resolution, complaining "not supported mode" when I try other resolutions. What resolutions are supported through component video? I tried 1280x720 and it didn't work. For some reason the ATI driver will not let me pick 1920x1080 in component mode.

When I look at the image displayed by my PC, it looks like a trapezoid - a little smaller at the top, maybe one inch smaller, and a little distorted. Is this a common problem? How can I see if it's within the manufacturer tolerance?

Next: In PC mode you have three picture size options: 1) 4:3 2) Wide TV 3) Wide PC. You access these options by pressing the "P.Size" button on your remote control. I don't like 4:3 mode but it looks fine to me. Wide TV mode for me has massive overscan problems. Wide PC mode looks okay. But... there is about one inch of black bar on each side of the screen in this mode and two inches of black bar at the top of the screen. In short the video doesn't fill the screen (but almost does). Is that a common problem?

About the ATI driver in DVI mode (note: I used a DVI-I->D-Sub adapter. I don't know if that matters. I have a DVI->HDMI adapter on order)
The ATI driver will not let me pick a screen scaling option, so I can put it in TV mode and use overscan correction to bring the image back into the frame.
post #596 of 851
Thread Starter 
Well that's interesting about the component input. I've never tried my PC via component plus I don't have that video card. Since you've ordered the DVI to HDMI adapter - let's see how that works. I have a DVI to HDMI cable that works well.

I don't think you need a new video card, the Radeon 1900XT should be ok. Are the drivers up to date?

About the trapezoidal display, if your other sources look fine then it must be an incompatibility with the Radeon via component. Good luck and let us know how the HDMI adapter works.
post #597 of 851
I want to say I'm very happy with my 72" Samsung. This forum gave me the insight that I need.The recommended Samsung DLP picture settings/calibration gave mine the WOW Factor. Would suggest everyone to use it.
post #598 of 851
Thread Starter 
Glad we could help, tommeitz. Enjoy that big hunka burnin' love!
post #599 of 851
. . . dying. I originally ordered an LED model, but when I went to pick it up they couldn't find it, so they gave me this one. I have had mine since September 2008 and up until a few days ago the picture was incredible. I mean scenes that would bring a tear to your eye. Now I'm having a hard time getting the same PQ with Blacks being the biggest problem. Darker areas are just plain flat dark with no definition as before and without jacking settings up everything is darker. But lighter areas are bright. Sometimes very bright. I have noticed that I am having to increase most all the settings or at least mess with more than I ever have to get an OK picture after having a great PQ for so long. And these changes are affecting the PQ as a whole.

At this moment I'm not real happy with the picture quality after having these issues and helping my brother install a Samsung 52" LCD which is just plain gorgeous (ToC and all - Front Panel "Touch" controls). I avidly stayed away from LCD's and am now thinking I made a mistake. Please tell me I didn't make a mistake?

I have a service ticket in with Samsung and they want me to call them. I will do that in the next couple of days. But just wanted to post here and see if there were any words of wisdom that I might utilize in sorting this out, or that I might tell Samsung when I call OR are there TV VooDoo Rituals that might need to be done at this time in the life of this set?

Any assistance will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks . . .
. . . fb
post #600 of 851
I understood the section on this TV set playing 120hz at all times even though it says 60hz or 24hz depending on whether your watching tv or a blu-ray and that dlps dont really have a need as do LCDs and so on.

I have this tv and i changed my ps3 setting to always play at the 60hz so no matter whether I am watching tv, blu-ray or playing a game it always says 60hz through my tools option on the remote or whatever button it is. I guess my question is... should I not do this. Should I let it automatically switch, letting the TV play 60hz while blu-rays play in 24hz? Is 24hz better to play the movies/games in?

Please help me out... if anyone can
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