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2008 Samsung HLxxA650 DLP Owners Thread/FAQ - Page 22

post #631 of 851
I am by no means a TV Tech expert so i will try to explain my problem as best i can.

I have a 56a650 and yesterday i was watching Encore HD Pirates of the carribean 3. DUring the ending part of the movie, when they are in the maelstrom, everyones faces were green, and everything that would have like a blueish/whiteish color normally, had a HUGE green tint to them. Today i was watching Constantine (on AMC HD), and a blueish/whiteish Wall had a BUNCH of Green Pixelization on it. I am currently using Dynamic Picture settings., but i paused and rewinded that part and changed to all the different picture modes, movie, standard, and dynamic. The green was less noticeable in movie mode, but i could still see that it was still there, just didnt pop as much, given movie is darker. ITs like i have green filter on it or something.

I bought the TV in Jan/Feb of this year, WHen it Arrived HDMI slot 1 didnt work. So i have had the main board replaced already since i have gotten it.

Im wondering what you all think the issue could be. Could i have a bad Comcast HD box, is the source Material the problem, bad HDMI cord, or could it be something on my TV? all help would be appreciated thanks.

EDIT AGAIN: So i am starting to think that its not straight up whites that are getting screwed up, cause a commericial just came on, and the background was pure white, and it didnt have any problems with it at all.
post #632 of 851
Thread Starter 
Hard to read your post. If this doesn't make sense then I misread it.

Doesn't sound like you have another HD source so how about pulling your cable box then hook up rabbit ears, etc. to the A650 and scan for OTA HD channels. See how they display. It should be stunning. If it looks good you can touch up PQ settings from the FAQ to help bring the colors dead on . I use Movie and Warm2 on all my sources.

Anyway, that'll eliminate your HDMI and cable box and you can see what the TV does on a clean signal. If the cable box is the problem then you can start diagnosing the HDMI ports, cable and box.
post #633 of 851
I apologize, my Post is kinda all over the place, I Didnt have much time before i was leaving my house, so i wanted to just get it posted.

I do have other HDMI Devices. I have my 360 Plugged into HDMI 2, and my PS3 plugged into HDMI 3. I have never noticed any problems with either of them on HDMI 2, or 3. I will plug them into my HDMI 1 port which my Cable box is plugged into and See if i do Notice problems.
post #634 of 851
Thread Starter 
Yeah that sounds like a plan, comparing the PS3 and cable box, ports and HDMI cables. You should know where you stand after that. I suggested OTA to test the TV internally since I didn't know you had other HD sources.
post #635 of 851
Well sorry for the late reply, very busy Memorial day Weekend. So it just so happened that Pirates of the Carribean 3 was on, so i waited until the part i first noticed the problem, and then paused it on that scene. And unplugged Comcast HDMI cable into port 1, then port 2, and then port 3. All three HDMI ports produced the same Green tint over where there should be blueish tinted areas.

It really just looks like the color has been swapped. Instead of a blue-whitish tint shadowing, its Green.

I have also tried my ps3 and 360 in HDMI port one (The same port my Cable is normally plugged into) and havent noticed any problem. So this makes me hting its either my Comcast Box or the channel.

Also im thinking i willl just go rent Pirates 3 blu-ray and play it on my PS3, and see if i can reproduce the problem.
post #636 of 851
Thread Starter 
While you're testing you might want to swap HDMI cables to be sure. But it's looking like it's your Comcast box right now.
post #637 of 851
I just did test 3 different HDMI cables, and the probmlem still existed. I Used Component cables as well, and ran component from comcast to my TV, but the problem was still there in full force.

So it is either my comcast box, the channel itself, or what about liek some HD post processing done by the TV. could there be like a bad HD decoding unit of some thingy like that. Or are all signs pointing to my box atm?

EDIT: so i just brouhg in my other HD comcast Box in and hooked it up to my TV. The comcast Box is the exact same as the one i currently have nromally connected to this tv.

So i hooked the Comcast box i just brought it, connected it to HDMI and the Problem is stil there on Pirates 3. So that rules out my Box as the problem right? so could the signal istelf be bad coing into the box? i think im going to go rent pirates 3 on blu-ray tomorrow and see if the problem is there on the blu-ray or not. I dont know what else to do. I mean i dont know if it is my TV or not anymore
post #638 of 851
Thread Starter 
Yeah you've got to do a controlled test and playing the same movie in BD is a good one. But still if your PS3 looks good with other movies and using all your HDMI cables with the PS3 I'd suspect Comcast. Who knows, that model box could be crap so I wouldn't rule it out just yet.

Oh, something to check real quick - do you have Color Gamut set to sRGB? If not you can get a greenish cast.
post #639 of 851
Hi folks,
I bought this TV last August and love it. I apologize if someone has already asked this but I couldn't find it.

I have a Dell Gx200 PC with a Radeon ATI graphics card in it. I get a pretty darn good picture when I hook it up via DVI cable to my TV. The only issue I have is that the only time my TV recognizes the signal is when I boot up or reboot the PC. Once it's on I can see it all day long. As soon as I turn off the TV or chnage sources then try to come back to the PC I get a black screen that reads "No Signal". Has anyone else experienced this?
post #640 of 851
Thread Starter 
Is the DVI to HDMI cable plugged in to HDMI 3 and did you rename the source to PC? Not sure if that will help but worth a try.

What resolution is the PC set at? Does changing it make any difference?

I'm suspicious that the ATI card loses sync with the TV when it's turned to another source so the PC needs a reboot to reestablish it.
post #641 of 851
Sorry for once again the late delay, had finals this week, so havent had to much time to use my TV.

I checked the cologamut and it is at sRGB. i tried switching that on and off just to see and it didnt solve the problem. I did bite the bullet and just ordered the Pirates trilogy on Blu-ray, I have been meaning to get it, so now this some how makes me feel okay for getting it lol. I will have it next week some time, so i will post next week once i get them, if the Blu-ray Version of the movie shows the same problems that the Encore HD version did. I will also try and fiddle around witht eh settings this weekend and see if that helps. Will use the settings on page one to adjust the picture.

Well talk to all soon, and let you know how everythign goes.
post #642 of 851
Hi all. I just got the 72" Samsung DLP A650. Great TV and PQ. I upgraded from a 65" Toshiba DLP.The 65" Toshiba is good but 72" Samsung is better in just about every way. I'm also a big fan of Samsung.
I have a few questions about 24p. I have a Panasonic Blu-Ray player 35k model and want to know is it better to use 1080p 24p or 60p? I have heard some people say that 24p still isn't true 24p like the 2007 Samsund DLP models. Is that still the case?
Also there is a film mode option in the tv settings. That is for 1080i not p right? Any reason to use that or is it better to just stay at 60p assuming the source can even do 24p which mainly is for BluRay?
post #643 of 851
Hey gang,

I am now almost one year into my Sammy HL50A650 - still loving this set, and remain very impressed with the PQ and the value. No issues at all (Oops now I have jinxed myself)

Regarding the USB port - I believe Samsung calls it "wiselink".

I have found this handy for plugging in a flashdrive and sharing photos transferred from my PC. My Question; I am about to purchase a USB external Harddrive for backing up the photo libraries on my PC.

Has anyone used a portable USB hard drive on the Samsung's USB port for viewing larger volumes of photos?
post #644 of 851
Thread Starter 
texasrattler, the A650 does accept 1080p/24 but what's displayed on screen is back to 60 fps. Sometimes input of 24 still is smoother and with other discs 60 is better. One of those things you just have to try both ways and see. Unfortunately my HD-A30 requires a disc reboot when changing from one to the other so it's harder to compare. Hopefully your BD player can do this on the fly. I know that this Panasonic is very highly rated for the price.

Cuzed2, glad your A650 has worked well. Mine also has reached the 1 year point and we're still awed by it. I don't know if Wiselink has an upper limit to the size of a USB drive. I'd expect it could handle fairly large HDDs but I haven't tried one. Anyone else know for sure?
post #645 of 851
Hey fellas, I've owned the 61a650 for about a year now, and have had problems lately with pixelation during fast camera movements or fast people movements. During the 08 Olympis for instance and now during football games. I have my cable box hookup with HDMI cables. I'm not all that Tech savy but know a little to get me buy and from reading this site. Can anyone help me out on what the problem may be or do i need to call the service tech? Please help this is really starting to bother me. Thanks
post #646 of 851
That sounds more like a source problem rather than a set problem. The Olympics pixelated badly on my cable also.
post #647 of 851
Today, when turning on my DLP, it entered into a turn off, turn on loop. It'll turn on, the power circle goes blue, the indicator light goes green, and the bulb turns on, but kind of dim. It'll then power off, then turn back on again. Sometimes it'll produce an image, sometimes it won't.

Now, whenever I plug it in, it tries to come back on and goes into the loop. Looking at the back of it, I see the bulb getting brighter, then after about 10 seconds it all turns off again, repeat.

Any ideas what I'm going to have to replace? I can elaborate further if needed. No dust accumulation from what I can see, and it's been off all day, and it's pretty cold in my house, so I'm not sure if it can overheat in 10 seconds.

Thanks in advance!
post #648 of 851
Quick follow up,

If the TV has been off for an hour, the screen takes a little longer to come on, then will stay on for about 30 seconds. After that, it'll start power cycling, and either show the screen for 5 seconds or not at all, and just keep turning off and on.

Examining the back, one of the fans is not spinning, and there seems to be a light buzzing sound and burning smell. Not good!

At my apartment, we do get quite a few brown-outs, but I have my entertainment center hooked into a large surge protector, but no power conditioner.

Do these symptoms line up with a fried or frying ballast? I'm also concerned about the fan not spinning, but I'm not sure if it spins up right away and not until after the TV has been on for a few minutes.
post #649 of 851
We've had a 56" A650 for about 15 months. It was working perfectly until last week when the lamp blew. We have an extended warranty and had a new bulb sent, which I installed 2 days ago. Since then we've noticed a slight, slow flicker with the picture. It's especially noticeable when the picture is paused and on solid colors. For instance, I was watching the Detroit Tigers game, and their white home uniforms kept changing from bright white to more of an off-white at about 1 to 2 second intervals. Also, when I bring up the DirecTV guide, you can see the blue menu change slightly in hue at the same intervals. It's not a huge color change, just a tiny bit.

Is this a problem with the new lamp, or is it another component? The warranty will cover it, but I'd like to have an idea what the problem is before a technician comes out.

Thanks so much for any ideas!

Amy
post #650 of 851
Quote:
Originally Posted by dghost View Post

We've had a 56" A650 for about 15 months. It was working perfectly until last week when the lamp blew. We have an extended warranty and had a new bulb sent, which I installed 2 days ago. Since then we've noticed a slight, slow flicker with the picture. It's especially noticeable when the picture is paused and on solid colors. For instance, I was watching the Detroit Tigers game, and their white home uniforms kept changing from bright white to more of an off-white at about 1 to 2 second intervals. Also, when I bring up the DirecTV guide, you can see the blue menu change slightly in hue at the same intervals. It's not a huge color change, just a tiny bit.

Is this a problem with the new lamp, or is it another component? The warranty will cover it, but I'd like to have an idea what the problem is before a technician comes out.

Thanks so much for any ideas!

Amy

you may need a new ballast
post #651 of 851
Quote:
Originally Posted by phobium View Post

Quick follow up,

If the TV has been off for an hour, the screen takes a little longer to come on, then will stay on for about 30 seconds. After that, it'll start power cycling, and either show the screen for 5 seconds or not at all, and just keep turning off and on.

Examining the back, one of the fans is not spinning, and there seems to be a light buzzing sound and burning smell. Not good!

At my apartment, we do get quite a few brown-outs, but I have my entertainment center hooked into a large surge protector, but no power conditioner.

Do these symptoms line up with a fried or frying ballast? I'm also concerned about the fan not spinning, but I'm not sure if it spins up right away and not until after the TV has been on for a few minutes.

I all-ways have a UPS on my 650 dlp so when the power goes out the dlp will stay on when the power is out then I turn the power off.
there is a fan that cools down the lamp after you turn the dlp off.
post #652 of 851
Quote:
Originally Posted by dghost View Post

We've had a 56" A650 for about 15 months. It was working perfectly until last week when the lamp blew.

We have an extended warranty and had a new bulb sent, which I installed 2 days ago. The warranty will cover it.....
but I'd like to have an idea what the problem is before a technician comes out.

Thanks so much for any ideas!

Amy

Good luck Amy....I have a question...

If you have an EW why didn't the tech come out and install the bulb and confirm that that's all your set needed?
(What kind of EW do you have?)

Please keep us up-to-date, okay? Thanks
post #653 of 851
Guys, I need your advice here.

In recent weeks, I've had multiple repairs (replace main board, powerboard, DLP lamp + button switch panel on side) done to my HL56A650 and the issue is still not resolved.

Samsung offered me a replacement....LN52B550 LCD.

Does this sound like a good deal or is this a downgrade from my A650 DLP?

It's 4" smaller, but that's not that big of a deal.

What do you guys think?
post #654 of 851
Quote:
Originally Posted by left4dead View Post

Guys, I need your advice here.

In recent weeks, I've had multiple repairs (replace main board, powerboard, DLP lamp + button switch panel on side) done to my HL56A650 and the issue is still not resolved.

Samsung offered me a replacement....LN52B550 LCD.

Does this sound like a good deal or is this a downgrade from my A650 DLP?

It's 4" smaller, but that's not that big of a deal.

What do you guys think?

Well from things that have been posted here and my experience with LCD's, the model number that you state, if I am not mistaken, is an entry level unit and may be very basic. Check the feature specs and compare the two. I have abandoned the XXX series and am looking at the 8500 (XXXX) series now. Still interested in the LED DLP's for large installs though. DLP's have certain characteristics that can not be found in LCD's that have presented the need for all this 120/240Hz tweaking business and trademarks features that are to improve this and that, of which in most of the reviews I have read they say that it doesn't work or makes things worse. Don't need them with DLP. There is really no need for the 120/240Hz because the way a DLP works that is not necessary for motion blur. But if the broadcast is bad or has a lot of compression you'll see it. And an LCD is not going to be 1080p24/30/60 as your DLP is. DLP's are a quiet giant in technology that LCD's because of the form factor will never be. All the major manufacturers that make movie theatre projectors use DLP. Also from articles that I have been reading all the talk is about the proper remastering of movies to 1080p/24 for the best PQ that they can get. ow this will only work for those have sets that can deal with 24fps. That the major gripe with all the new Blu-Rays that are being release is PQ that is being realized when upscaled to 30/60. Which is great at 24fps. AND I now have several LCD's and SD programming on them sucks. Whereas, on my DLP it's really great.

I would suggest that you pull the rude specs on both units and compare FPS and whatnot. I believe that unit is a side lit non-regional dimming backlight. Those are on their way out. Check for toys/additional features. My brothers 760 is loaded with them and I think is to distract you from the "rude" specs and what is missing. Although as I have said above, once I got it dialed in I got that "Oh Sh^t Chill" down my back making me think I had made a mistake with DLP. That was short lived. Other than I think that my bulb is dying (13 months of really heavy use), I still really love DLP and my brothers kids would rather watch it on Uncle "FarmerBob's" TV. Plus I have 7.1 Surround (10 years now) that has 3500 watts behind it. My nephew (who doesn't have to wear his glasses with the DLP as he does with LCD) loves when explosions makes things in the room move.

I hope this helps. Any corrections are most welcome.

. . . fb
post #655 of 851
well, back in the spring during NHL playoffs, I posted in this thread about my DLP (HL50A650) bulb dying, and now, again, Wednesday during another hockey game, the replacement bulb burned out as well.

I bought the tv on August 4, 2008, so in just over a year, two DLP bulbs have died. My brother has a Samsung 56" DLP that is about 2 years older than mine, maybe 3, that is still on the first bulb.

I bought the extended warranty from Vanns.com when I bought the tv, so they are sending the replacement bulb, but I'm getting pretty upset and I don't think I'll ever buy another Samsung again. This is our first Samsung tv, and I'm just not happy with this nonsense, having to wait 3-5 days (usually 5-7 in the real world since no deliveries on Saturday or Sunday) to watch hockey and play our 360, etc.
post #656 of 851
Quote:
Originally Posted by Angry_Games View Post

well, back in the spring during NHL playoffs, I posted in this thread about my DLP (HL50A650) bulb dying, and now, again, Wednesday during another hockey game, the replacement bulb burned out as well.

I bought the tv on August 4, 2008, so in just over a year, two DLP bulbs have died. My brother has a Samsung 56" DLP that is about 2 years older than mine, maybe 3, that is still on the first bulb.

I bought the extended warranty from Vanns.com when I bought the tv, so they are sending the replacement bulb, but I'm getting pretty upset and I don't think I'll ever buy another Samsung again. This is our first Samsung tv, and I'm just not happy with this nonsense, having to wait 3-5 days (usually 5-7 in the real world since no deliveries on Saturday or Sunday) to watch hockey and play our 360, etc.


avoid excessive use of the power button. When you turn off your TV let it cool down for at least 30 minutes before turning it on again. Heat is the number one cause of reduced lamp life. Turning it off and on will cause the lamp to overheat and reduce it's life. If possible using a UPS power supply connected to your TV will avoid any power interruptions. A power failure would cause the TV to not cool down properly.
post #657 of 851
don't mean to be rude, but you are telling me something I've known since DLP's came out. I have read this thread as well as hundreds if not thousands around this forum.

This isn't a case of me the user doing anything wrong, this is a case of the tv/bulb being defective, and it doesn't seem to be limited to just me.
post #658 of 851
HL72A650 - So far this is a great TV. Picture is awesome. My question is why isn't the audio out variable? This would make it nice to use with an audio reciever setup.
post #659 of 851
Quote:
Originally Posted by phobium View Post

Today, when turning on my DLP, it entered into a turn off, turn on loop. It'll turn on, the power circle goes blue, the indicator light goes green, and the bulb turns on, but kind of dim. It'll then power off, then turn back on again. Sometimes it'll produce an image, sometimes it won't.

Now, whenever I plug it in, it tries to come back on and goes into the loop. Looking at the back of it, I see the bulb getting brighter, then after about 10 seconds it all turns off again, repeat.

Any ideas what I'm going to have to replace? I can elaborate further if needed. No dust accumulation from what I can see, and it's been off all day, and it's pretty cold in my house, so I'm not sure if it can overheat in 10 seconds.

Thanks in advance!

Thought I'd just follow up, Samsung sent me a new ballast, bulb, and power supply, and the problem is gone. So it was one of those things to fix it
post #660 of 851
As with the XBOX 360 once you get three blinking red lights...things have gone wrong. Unlike the 3yr Xbox warranty my 1yr Samsung warranty has expired by 30 some days and now I am in for some fixing fun.

Originally the TV turned off and then tried to turn on for about 3 minutes or so, never really getting started, getting decent picture for couple seconds then turning off and trying again. Finally it would give up and three lights would blink. So in the name of DLP I started with the bulb, even though there was no dimming, I figured why not, and the TV had gotten some serious use. In my mind not enough to be bying bulbs annually though. Anyways, bulb came, easy swap, TV still cant turn over. Its like a dying battery on a car, so close....

So now what....I am left with three options that I know of....

Repair Man - these people in General scare me, and want $100 bucks just to peek and tell me my problems.

Color Wheel - seems to be a problem of failure in older DLP's

Cooling fan - If the fan wont run the tv wont turn on right?

So this is where I be. I live in Charlotte NC and would love the help from anyone, in person or via the net. I dont know but I might, just might have smelled some light burning at the time of initial failure, then again my mind could have just imagined that in the haste. I think I heard a slight grinding of sorts, but only once or twice during the off and on stage. Never initially or for long time.
Email me at graff40b@gmail.com if you know where to get the two above mentioned parts at fair price or know of repair people in NC area. Or have any help to offer.
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