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2008 Samsung HL67A750 LED DLP owners thread - Page 83

post #2461 of 2719
Hi All, I bought the HL67A750 in Jan 09. It has been a pleasure. Not a ton
of use but consistant. I turn the set off and you hear a whine humming sound. This continues constantly. Turn it on, turn the sound off. and you will still hear the whine? Any thoughts or how to look up such a thing would help enormosly.

Thank Everyone,
Miclot5
post #2462 of 2719
Quote:
Originally Posted by Miclot5 View Post

Hi All, I bought the HL67A750 in Jan 09. It has been a pleasure. Not a ton
of use but consistant. I turn the set off and you hear a whine humming sound. This continues constantly. Turn it on, turn the sound off. and you will still hear the whine? Any thoughts or how to look up such a thing would help enormosly.

Thank Everyone,
Miclot5

If the whine eventually quits while the TV is off, then it's the intenal cooling fan. On this model tv the fan(s), I believe there are 2, are the only moving parts. The fan(s), I don't know if it's only one or both, will continue to run for a while to cool the TV down when the TV is switched off. Eventually, the fan(s) will shut themselves off.

I'd say you have a fan bearing going bad. I don't believe you need genuine Samsung replacement parts for a bad fan. Just lookup a good computer cooling fan and use it. You'll need the old fan to matchup size, voltage and current (should be on a label on the fan). As long as you don't cheap out on the fan, you could easily get a fan with much higher performance and lower noise than the original fan at about the same price. You may have to solder (or crimp) the old connector to the new fan. I'd think it would be well worth your effort to investigate. Especially, since some folks seem to be adding external USB fans to cool the TV even more.
post #2463 of 2719
Tyrod, Thanks so much for your reply and I will try your advice. The noise doesn't stop.
Get up in the morning, it is still going. It's been going for 3 days. If I unplug the power
strip after the tv is off will this reset all the setting to factory default?
post #2464 of 2719
Okay, having had to have my red LED replaced once already (so much for MTBF, reading this topic!), I picked up a 120mm USB fan to get some circulation pouring over it.

So, easy question for you folks: I'm not sure which side the LED is on. Do I mount the fan by the vents on the side closest to the USB port (right side, facing the front of the TV), or the side farthest (left, facing the front?)

Thanks in advance!
post #2465 of 2719
left facing front.farthest from usb port.
post #2466 of 2719
My 67" set has a green tint to it. If I go into the blue screen in the menu it then displays a black screen. Does that mean for sure that it is the blue LED that has failed? I want to make sure I order the correct one. Thanks
post #2467 of 2719
Quote:
Originally Posted by cjett7 View Post
My 67" set has a green tint to it. If I go into the blue screen in the menu it then displays a black screen. Does that mean for sure that it is the blue LED that has failed? I want to make sure I order the correct one. Thanks
That was my problem. Didn't want to take chance on getting
wrong part so had service company do it cost about $340. If
it happens again I'll replace it myself. Replacement LED about
$100.
post #2468 of 2719
Quote:
Originally Posted by rahull View Post
That was my problem. Didn't want to take chance on getting
wrong part so had service company do it cost about $340. If
it happens again I'll replace it myself. Replacement LED about
$100.
But how do I know which LED is the defective one? It appears to be the blue one but it seems most everyone is having to replace the red LED. I don't want to waste money on the wrong part if I can avoid that.
post #2469 of 2719
Quote:
Originally Posted by cjett7 View Post

My 67" set has a green tint to it. If I go into the blue screen in the menu it then displays a black screen. Does that mean for sure that it is the blue LED that has failed? I want to make sure I order the correct one. Thanks

I would make sure that all HDMI conections are secure, then I'd try another port (HDMI 2) on the display, then try a new HDMI cable. If you are going to replace LED's I would go with all three and save the old for spares. I've never heard of blue going out, but I'm no expert!
post #2470 of 2719
Quote:
Originally Posted by cjett7 View Post

But how do I know which LED is the defective one? It appears to be the blue one but it seems most everyone is having to replace the red LED. I don't want to waste money on the wrong part if I can avoid that.

Mine was the blue one. Displaying the test screens in the service menu
gives a black screen for the bad LED. I would guess the ones having
trouble with the red LED have the LED control turned up and are having
a heat problem. I have mine set on low and get 45FL for daytime viewing and 38FL for night with a external video processor.
post #2471 of 2719
Quote:
Originally Posted by cjett7 View Post

But how do I know which LED is the defective one? It appears to be the blue one but it seems most everyone is having to replace the red LED. I don't want to waste money on the wrong part if I can avoid that.

Download AVS HD 709. Run the colour test patterns and see what does and doesn't display.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496

or throw some .jpgs of the primary colours (easily made in Paint) on a USB and plug it in to the TV see what does and does not display. (this is probably the most straightforward). If you do replace the LED's you may want the calibration disc anyways for post replacement.
post #2472 of 2719
if you look through the forums a technician replaced one of the leds on one of the members sets and he tested them with a nine volt battery to find the bad one.
post #2473 of 2719
Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulGo View Post

Irvine, CA – January 27, 2011 – Mitsubishi Digital Electronics America (MDEA) today announced a new 3D Starter Pack that enables owners of both Mitsubishi and Samsung 3D-ready DLP® TVs to enjoy the ultimate in immersive, large screen, theater-like 3D home entertainment.

The new 3D starter pack, which retails for $449.99, converts all mandatory 3D signal formats as prescribed by HDMI 1.4a for display on all Mitsubishi and Samsung 3D-ready DLP TVs, which allows consumers to enjoy 3D sports, movies, gaming and other 3D content.

This is perhaps the best news ever since I bought the Samsung TV. Does this mean I no longer have to get the checkerboard player like the Panasonic BDT-100 and could go for the Oppo 3D blu-ray player??

ps. just went to Mitsubishi website, it seems shipping is only possible to US for now. Has anyone managed to ship it to Canada yet?
post #2474 of 2719
With the adapter you can use any 3D source (or player) you want. In the 3D threads many people in the US have already gotten this kit and have not reported any problems with its use.
post #2475 of 2719
Well, my HL67A750 has been great since September 2008....But. looks like the day of reckoning has arrived.

When I attempt to turn it on, I know often hear the 'click' of a relay but see nothing. Sometimes I will see a slight tint of light, almost as if looking at a picture that was meant to be all black. No indicator in the upper left of the resolution, time etc.

I hit the discrete on button on my Logitech Harmony One about 10 times over a period of a minute and eventually, I'll hear that 'tone sequence' it makes when powering up and then it works fine for as long as you leave it on. If you turn it off and then back on a short while later all is fine. This problem seems to only happen when the unit is 'cold.'

I tried the original remote with the same problem.

Any ideas on the problem? Anybody estimate how much a typical in home service call costs? I assume the warranty was only one year.
post #2476 of 2719
SAMSUNG 67A750 DLP 3D READY
i have the panasonic DMP -BDT100 3D blu ray player
its connected to the tv via HDMI 3 renamed to PC
my 3D DLP LINK glasses are coming wednesday
on the SAMMY menu the 3D effect is still grayed out
what am i doing wrong?
post #2477 of 2719
Quote:
Originally Posted by mchinsky View Post

Well, my HL67A750 has been great since September 2008....But. looks like the day of reckoning has arrived.

When I attempt to turn it on, I know often hear the 'click' of a relay but see nothing. Sometimes I will see a slight tint of light, almost as if looking at a picture that was meant to be all black. No indicator in the upper left of the resolution, time etc.

I hit the discrete on button on my Logitech Harmony One about 10 times over a period of a minute and eventually, I'll hear that 'tone sequence' it makes when powering up and then it works fine for as long as you leave it on. If you turn it off and then back on a short while later all is fine. This problem seems to only happen when the unit is 'cold.'

I tried the original remote with the same problem.

Any ideas on the problem? Anybody estimate how much a typical in home service call costs? I assume the warranty was only one year.

If you feel up to it, download the manual, open up the back, and look around for any swollen capacitors, especially around the power supply. If you find some, just call Samsung service directly.
post #2478 of 2719
Quote:
Originally Posted by domingos1965 View Post

SAMSUNG 67A750 DLP 3D READY
i have the panasonic DMP -BDT100 3D blu ray player
its connected to the tv via HDMI 3 renamed to PC
my 3D DLP LINK glasses are coming wednesday
on the SAMMY menu the 3D effect is still grayed out
what am i doing wrong?

It will be available when you're playing a 3d disc. Sometimes, not having the display on when loading the 3d disc will not let you play in 3d.

3d menu is normally available when player is outputting 1080p/60, but goes away using 1080p/24.

At least, this is how it my HL67A750 behaves with BDT-300.
post #2479 of 2719
Quote:
Originally Posted by bitemymac View Post

It will be available when you're playing a 3d disc. Sometimes, not having the display on when loading the 3d disc will not let you play in 3d.

3d menu is normally available when player is outputting 1080p/60, but goes away using 1080p/24.

At least, this is how it my HL67A750 behaves with BDT-300.

got it to work
do i pick mode 1 or mode 2?

thanks
post #2480 of 2719
IR glasses mode 1, DLP link glasses mode 2.
post #2481 of 2719
Quote:
Originally Posted by bitemymac View Post

It will be available when you're playing a 3d disc. Sometimes, not having the display on when loading the 3d disc will not let you play in 3d.

3d menu is normally available when player is outputting 1080p/60, but goes away using 1080p/24.

At least, this is how it my HL67A750 behaves with BDT-300.

I found it rather inconvenient to have to enable 3d in Sammy whenever I play 3d disc. Seems like Sammy can detect a 3d disc is being played, and turn 3d on by picking a default mode.

I was trying to program my Harmony to do that, but couldn't find a code for MODE1.
post #2482 of 2719
Does anyone have a service center suggestion for the Southern California area? Samsung only refers you to Alphadtv. I feel better having some options.

It wouldn't power up this morning and I get the left most led light blinking steadily then after a few minutes of this a clicking noise followed by all three lights blinking a few times. Then it all repeats. If I had to guess I'd say it acts like its the power supply.

I haven't been here in a while but if there are DIY improvements to help make sure the repair may last longer I'm all ears (I'll be searching...).

Thanks guys,

-Drew
post #2483 of 2719
Ok here goes. Got the 3DC-100S converter without all the glasses and emitter. Thinking my DLP link glasses that came with Monsters vs. Aliens would work. Guess what, the glasses do nothing. Are these glasses compatible? I mean, they work fine on my 8000 series Sammy LED slim LCD. How can these not work? They are samsung. I'm so damn frustrated.

Thanks

Also, I have the nvidia 3D vision kit. Is there any way to use the emitter, the glasses, anything with the 3DC-100S? The Nvidia glasses are WAY more comfortable.
post #2484 of 2719
Quote:
Originally Posted by MAYAmanIGN View Post

Ok here goes. Got the 3DC-100S converter without all the glasses and emitter. Thinking my DLP link glasses that came with Monsters vs. Aliens would work. Guess what, the glasses do nothing. Are these glasses compatible? I mean, they work fine on my 8000 series Sammy LED slim LCD. How can these not work? They are samsung. I'm so damn frustrated.

Thanks

Also, I have the nvidia 3D vision kit. Is there any way to use the emitter, the glasses, anything with the 3DC-100S? The Nvidia glasses are WAY more comfortable.

Those glasses are not DLP link if they work with an LCD TV. The 2010 Samsung glasses are IR and need an emitter. The 2011 Samsung TVs use Bluetooth technology and will not work with a DLP set.
post #2485 of 2719
Thanks, so which glasses work 100% and will work with the 3DC-100S? I'm looking for glasses similar to the Nvidia 3D vision in shape since I wear glasses already and need the largest 3D glasses possible.

Thanks again
post #2486 of 2719
Quote:
Originally Posted by MAYAmanIGN View Post

Thanks, so which glasses work 100% and will work with the 3DC-100S? I'm looking for glasses similar to the Nvidia 3D vision in shape since I wear glasses already and need the largest 3D glasses possible.

Thanks again

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1314289
post #2487 of 2719
So, almost every single one of the glasses in that spreadsheet have an issue with the legacy dlp sets, lol.

Basically I'm SOL.

The ones that do work are discontinued. This sucks. If my Monsters vs. Aliens glasses aren't DLP or IR, what the hell are they?

Thanks
post #2488 of 2719
What about these?

Samsung SSG-2200AR

What transmitter? I don't want to buy the glasses and then not have them work.

Is there any way I could use my nvidia 3D vision glasses with a different transmitter with the 3DC-100S?

Thanks
post #2489 of 2719
Quote:
Originally Posted by MAYAmanIGN View Post

So, almost every single one of the glasses in that spreadsheet have an issue with the legacy dlp sets, lol.

Basically I'm SOL.

The ones that do work are discontinued. This sucks. If my Monsters vs. Aliens glasses aren't DLP or IR, what the hell are they?

Thanks

The Samsung Monster vs Aliens glasses are probably IR glasses so you need an emitter. As I siad all glasses for 2010 Samsung sets including the DLP sets need the Mits emitter (or an emitter that is certified to be equivalent to the Mits emitter.
post #2490 of 2719
Just bought the view sonic pgd-250s. Couple of really positive reviews with my HL67A750. I think they don't work with Mitsus though.
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