2008 Samsung HL67A750 LED DLP owners thread - Page 86

You got me curious about my channels, so I'm running AutoProgram again, as some of my old hidef designations are showing up as scrambled/weak. I almost always watch TV (TWC) through my STB/DVR, but thought I'd check for the hell of it. Shouldn't I still be able to get hidef local stations? I'm using STD as well, but have you tried the others?

Do you mind saying what you spent for repairs? My 3-yr-old set has another year on an extended warranty, but I'm curious what I'd be looking at after that.

EDIT: Nick, I just finished the channel search and that corrected the problem for me. Hidef local channels (eg. NBC - 4-1) are now coming in, whereas they weren't before. Hopefully you're having similar success.

I was very dissapointed with the TV repair. I cost me a lot of money. Let me begin by saying that I am in Michigan, the state with one of the worst economies in the country and one of the highest unemployment rates. That's why I can not understand why a TV repair man charges $300 an hour. I don't get it. It's rediculous! He replaced the main board (the one that has all the inputs and outputs). The board itself costs $150. I could have put it in myself. All it took is a couple of screws (after you take the back cover off, which I did myself before the repair man came). Once you remove the unit (main board and the power module on top of it), unscrew a dozen screws, remove the power module in the metal cage, and screw it to the new board. Then put it back inside, connect 3 cables (the ones you disconnected when you removed the defective board) and you are done. It takes less than an hour!

I am doing the auto programming again. I will let you know. What did you do to program the HD channels? I am running through all the options now. Hopefully it works.

I guess this video says that if you haven't had a problem yet and your room isn't dust free then you would be smart to open it up and clean the dust out before something overheats. Right?

Man, house calls are expensive. But what can you do with a set this big? I hope if mine goes, it does so before next May when my warranty is up.

All I did was re-run the Auto setup. It took about 15 minutes. When I took a look at the channel list, it looked similar to what was there before. The local HD ones have a '-1' extension after the channel (4-1 for example). These didn't work before, as I said, don't know why. But this was the first time I've taken a look at a direct cable feed since TMC went through its digital conversion, so maybe that's why.

Wow, thanks for that link. I thought it would be easier to access. I'm glad I have that video now to guide me when my LED comes.

Quick question: what type of adhesive/glue/sealing compound was used to reattach the LED? Is it the same type used to cool CPUs? Like Artic Silver 5? http://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-.../ref=pd_sim_e4

I used to get "red LED flicker" in 3D mode, but it was solved after cleaning out the dust from the air passage and brushing off the dust build up from the fans.

Just like shown in the video, I had a nice thick wall of dust completely covering the last heat sink from about 3 years of use.

I would agree that periodical cleaning can help prolong the LED usage as it seems that the common cause of LED failure is associated with excessive heat build up from poor cooling/ventilation.

I tried all the options for programming channels, scanned air and cable, analog and digital, but my free HD channels are missing. Like I said, I used to have CBS HD 6-1 and now I have CBS in Standard definition, although it does say DTV. I ordered an antenna and will try to get it over the air. If anyone has any other comments, please share. Thanks.

Ok now I'm nervous.

I've had my HL76A750 for almost 3 years now. It's been professionally calibrated twice, once after purchase and once after Samsung replaced the input/output board. I don't think the tech dusted inside since that i/o board is on the side of the TV whereas the LED module is on the opposite side.

After watching that video, I think I need to go in there and do a little carefull vacuuming. I have an extended warranty but I really don't want the hassle of anotjer repair job or the cost of another calibration.

Anyone tried using some sort of permeable covering over the air intake grills to help keep the dust out?

I've heard of people using something like that with the bulb DLPs.

I went ahead and dusted the LED module last night. Thankfully, we have that youtube video. It took me about an hour and a half from start to finish which included pulling out the TV, dusting around it, dusting the LED module to putting everything back in place--removing the back cover, dusting the LEDs and putting the cover back on took about a 1/2 hour.

My set definitely had dust build up but not as much as seen in the video--I had more on the green LED than on the red LED.

I plan on doing this cleaning once a year from here on out.

Repairs to TV Made

DLP Chip # 4719-001997 Replaced

12/03/2011

Thanks to this Forum I purchased the great, soon-to-be-discontinued at the time, SamsungHL67A750A rear projection unit with a LED light source (no bulb) that should last a lifetime of 100,000 hours. It developed a small white spot on the screen that grew to two about a month ago.
It has now been three years and as I usually do, had purchased a five year in-home service contract having this unit shipped from Maine to my home in central Indiana. Since it would not cost anything to have checked out I contacted MACK Camera that issued the contract. Their closest service center was about 35 miles from my home.

I was concerned with two issues: they would say it is not bad enough to repair or that no parts are available for repairs. In that case they could replace the TV with a like one, and less face it, you cannot buy anything like this for $1,800!

Anyway the repairman said this is a known issue that one mirror is frozen open being white, and it was a black spot the mirror would be frozen close. There are thousands and thousands of small electronic mirrors controlled on a DLP chip. I took a picture of this chip and it has a small mirror on it!
Long story, DLP chip replaced this week at no charge at a cost of $610.43 to MACK. Not bad since I still have two years left on my Service Contract that cost less than half of this repair.

Interesting Comments From Repairman

Sixty (something) old repairman was really cynical about any of the new TVs. He said the only good TVs are the older ones. Guess he is right. My first 55 inch Mitsubishi rear-projector TV was in a solid golden oak cabinet and cost 5K! Sold before moving to my present home after eight years and it never required any repairs and lasted the second owner another four years. My previous Toshiba 65 inch rear-projector that weighed 400 plus pounds, ended up at step-sons home after seven years with no repairs, and cost him $200 to move. He has now given it to his son that lives in a trailer and so even with all the moves it still has a great picture after 10 years! (65 set in a trailer?)

Repairman says it is all about greed and TV manufactures want you to buy a new TV every two years like a computer. He doesn't like any of them and said Mitsubishi is exiting TV manufacturing next year altogether and had made the last rear-projector TV. Sony expensive Bravia TV won't work with own Sony PlayStations and I read they have lost money in their TV division for five years. He did not say any TV manufacture was good! For Samsung, to replace my present large screen with their top-of-the-line 65 inch LCD (downgrade in size) set that lists for over 5K but can be bought for $3,700, would be a step backward. The new Shape 80 inch can be bought for around 3K plus, but repairman said their parts are expensive and they do not stand behind what they sell.

What can I say? Really please with my present Samsung!

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Thanks for sharing that, Rick. Of all the money I've spent on this "hobby" in the last 8 years, this set and my OPPO 83 are the best buys I've made. I only wish I had bought a longer extended warranty from Mack. My 3 years will be up next June. I looked into trying to extend that, but they wouldn't go for it. But it's been a dream TV, for sure.

Hi all - I have a samsung HL67A750 (last 6 digits of model # are A1FXZA), and i just noticed this behavior recently - the set is 2-3 years old. The flickering red/green behavior does not happen when i am in normal viewing mode...It only starts happening when I use the "E. Mode" button on the remote to switch to Sports, Cinema, Gaming, etc...viewing modes. Once I return back to normal viewing mode, the flickering stops.

I have no clue what might be causing this or if it's something I might be able to fix myself / have repaired fairly cheaply. Can anyone help? Thanks a lot!

Rick, thanks so much for the info. I too have a MACK 5 YR warranty--I'm hoping I never have to use it but if I do, sounds like MACK will come through without a hassle.

Even though these sets are rated at 60-100K hours, I still find myself babying the set much to the chagrin of my family. Why bother at "only" $1865 delivered, I tell myself.

For me, I'm also in another $650 for two pro calibrations--totally worth it by the way--plus the MACK warranty.

I figure, if I keep the LED Module dust free through periodic cleaning and not shut the set off and back on again within a short period of time, I'm probably doing all I can do.

Am I paranoid? Probably. I just REALLY like this set.

That looks like the symptom I had prior to removing the dust off the red LED heat sink. Mine used to flicker only in 3D mode, but fine during normal viewing. Flickering seems to be a warning prior to RED LED failure due to over heating. Follow the DYI video, it should only take 30 min to perform.

whats up guys .. first let me say i absolutely love this thread and have been trolling on this board for over 4 years.I finally joined yeaaaa

I decided to pick up the disney WOW Blu ray calibration disk and give it a spin to see what my setting would be after following other peoples on multiple boards for years.

I have the HL67A750 DLP with a Samsung Model: BDD6700ZA Blu Ray player .. after about 2 hours of following the disk this is what i came up with

Blu Ray

Standard
Contrast 98
Bright 44
Sharp 20
Color 49
Tint 46/54

Blk adj off
Dyn cont Low .. (set it up with off .. changed it when i was watching videos after it was completed i turned it on and it gave it a little more popping 3D action)
LED Auto
Gamma/WB/Flesh 0
Edge enh Off

Color Tone Norm
Size just scan
Dig NR Auto
Blue Mode off
Color Gamut sRGB

A couple of things i noticed, and excuse me cause im not up to date on the technical lingo is

1: when i was adjusting the tint and color i used the blue screen from the TV with these setting and it was prefect .. but when i turned it off and used the blue glasses it would be about 4 notches off on tint and 2 on color !!! so what one is right ?

2: adjusting the sharpness ... i didnt see any difference from 0 to 100 from the wow disk .. is there another way to adjust this setting correctly? .. i thought i was doing something wrong but i got another set of eyes to look and they didnt see anything either.. any help would be appreciated.

1. The display's blue mode. Plastic filters are notoriously inconsistent.
2. Turn up sharpness until you see light gray content being added to the edge of the thin black lines on any sharpness pattern. Turn sharpness down until the additional content disappears. Done! If nothing happens when the sharpness is turned up the control is a placebo (wouldn't be the first time) so you should leave the control set at zero.

Hello I just picked up one of these awesome Tv's model HL67A750 with no light engine for cheap.

Does anyone know where I can get a used working/non working/core light engine for a good price?

Cheers,

Chris

I had my set calibrated by Gregg Loewen last week. My colors were way off and couldnt be corrected, however the grey scale came out perfect. I fell in love with my tv again. Only problem is the light engine looks like its failing again. There is a faint bar of light on the left hand side as well as some color bleed.

I found myself here by accident but I'm now a bit nervous.

Every 12months on the dot the power supply would fail. I had it replaced twice and the second time a local company said they repaired it using better parts and didn't simply order a replacement.

So far I'm at the 19 mo. mark since and so far so good. Sorry to say I haven't any details and looking over my old invoice there is no usefull info.

Has anyone thought of maybe zip tying a decent fan external to the rear grill only on one side to draw air out of the cabinet?

It would also be easy to use velcro to attach a filter on the opposite side.

Now after reading this page I'll have to go back a few more to see what else is going on.

Cheers,

Hi, I have posted a few replies and a thread on repair for the Sammy LED DLP.

The main reason for Power Supply failure is dirty voltage. Many use surge protectors for their equipment, but it is not good enough for Samsung TVs.

The power supply is built weak, even though there are good components that are used in the construction.

If they would have just used basic ATX power supply design, there would be less failures of the DMD, Main Board, and LED.

I found my PS went bad last November and started my thread.

My main board got damaged from a bad PS, and I was lucky to fix the component failure and keep my main board.

As for keeping your power supply from failing, the best option is a line conditioner. Some use a UPS, but they are over kill unless you want to watch movies during blackouts.

We don't experience blackouts much at all, just our power gets very dirty in the spring and fall from storms and high winds.

If you are thinking of using coverings on the air vents, you will still need to do periodical maintenance. I found replacing the DMD heat sink's heat transfer pad and using real heat sink compound will extend the life of your DLP chip. Properly cleaning out the LED heat sink and path ways also help for LED life.

Putting on some filter material will do more damage than good, unless you want to do cleaning more often. It will slow the air circulation and make things run warmer. I added a small fan and mounted it near the inputs. You will notice vent slots on the back cover, just align the fan to point to them with the direction pointing out. All the other fans point inward, so adding it will pull warm air away from the power supply and out of stagnant areas.

Low Tech, thanks for that.

Could you possibly link us to your thread? I have searched and see that you have quite a few poast related to this.

I'll keep looking...

I really want to do whatever I can to make this as reliable as possible. I'm in love with this 67" display and especially for what I paid for it

Thanks !

3D function not syncing with glasses...

I have this tv, HL67A750 with a win7 computer hooked up via port HDMI 3. Using TMT 5 I have used the 3D feature several times over the past few years. Recently I tried to watch a 3D blu-ray movie and it seems as though the glasses aren't able to sync with the TV. I'm using Samsung SSG1000 glasses & emitter. I own 4 pair so I tried the other pairs, emitters and even new batteries to no avail. I have also tried naming HDMI 3 to PC with no effect. Any ideas?

When I label HDMI 3 to PC the picture quality is degraded/muted. Is this normal?

When I activate the 3D feature the screen turns red/pink. Is this normal? Why does it do this? Is there a way to fix this? The SSG1000 glasses do not block 100% of the pink hue.

I recently purchased a Panasonic DMP-BDT310 to test my TV. The 3D feature appears to work 75% of the time using this player. It works with HDMI 3 labeled TV & PC. Obviously with HDMI 3 labeled TV the picture quality is far superior, at least on my TV since the PC label degrades the picture quality. Do you label your HDMI 3 port TV or PC?

Is there a way to use 3D without turning it on with perhaps DLP Link Glasses?

Thanks

mine is 4 years old .not one problem
i do have a power conditioner and surge protector/battery back up

I use the DLP link glasses with no problems. My HTPC is Win 7, running an nVidia GT430 with a DVI --> HDMI cable into HDMI 3 (set to PC @ 1920x1080/60, RGB -- AFAIK, these settings are all required for it to work). Turning on 3D gives the screen that reddish cast, but it's corrected of course with the glasses. I use TMT5 as well

I'm coming up on four years on mine and have never dusted anything. No problems so far but my four year BB warranty will run out and the way my luck has been going with extended warranties recently, I will start having issues, one or two months after the extended warranty expires. (I recently had two devices fail on me within weeks/months of their four year extended warranty expiring.)

Hi Bruce,

The Panasonic blu-ray player works with HDMI 3 labeled TV. If I label it PC the picture quality is crap. Does your picture quality change when labeled PC vs. TV? No where in the user manual does Samsung indicate labeling this input PC.

My HTPC used to work with 3D, but it seems like the glasses won't sync anymore. Do you think a part has failed in the TV?

Sometimes Best Buy offers a renewal on those black tie protection plans. Call them if you haven't received a renewal offer should you opt to renew the plan. I love the TV and I only have 4 months left on my BB black tie plan. I will definitely renew it if they allow it. This TV suits all of my needs perfectly and it fits in my media niche. Should this TV fail or not be repairable, the only TV I would even consider replacing it with would be the Laservue 75" which would still fit in my media niche.

There is no difference in PQ using either label, but this is with a computer, not a standalone BR player. I suspect that makes a difference.

I'll look for the post on some forum where I learned about setting the TV to PC (it might be here at AVS). But again this is with regards to using an HTPC.

Thanks. I'll check it out.