2008 Samsung HL67A750 LED DLP owners thread - Page 87

Ok, here is my original thread...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...035615&page=86

Can someone please briefly explain what is required to set up 3D on the HL67A750? Can you use a PS3 as the player?

I don't believe the PS3 works with this TV. Mine doesn't and it's up to date. The Panasonic Blu-Ray player DMP-BDT310 works great. $179 @ Amazon. Dual HDMI out. You will also need an emitter & Active 3D glasses from Tru3D.com or other compatible supplier. With the Panasonic Blu-Ray player you do not need the Mitsubishi converter. The Blu-Ray player is capable of outputting the checkerboard format.

I wish the PS3 would output the checkerboard pattern. If it did I would have tried 3D on my set by now. But I'm not going to buy a player specifically for it since I rarely play discs anymore. And then the 3D adapter is expensive as well for something I wouldn't use very often. One day I'll try it out. I still have a pair of the Xpand102 glasses that I have never used.

You need to get a Mitsubishi 3DA-1 adapter. There is a thread in the 3D forum on how to get it working. You need a specific build date or to do a simple EDID modification on your set. Took me two minutes on my HLT-6187s. Works great!

Directions:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1280874

Or, try to find a Mitsubishi 3dc-100s which works on the Samsung without needing any tweaks. But this is a very expensive adapter and hard to find.

YES, the PS3 works perfectly once you have the adapter. All the adapter does is transform every 3D signal you throw at it into checkerboard format.

You don't need the $450 mitsu adapter if you just buy the Panny Blu-Ray player dmp-bdt310 which is only $179.

The PS3 is not the preferred 3D player due to the lack of a second HDMI output for HD Audio. You would need a splitter to accomplish this with a PS3, another $50.

You need an adapter if you want to play PS3 games on this set. I have my audio from the PS3 using the optical out. Sorry if I wasn't clear, the only thing this set accepts without needing an adapter is checkerboard. I believe some Xbox titles output this format.

The AVS Forum classified section is closed so I suppose I can sell here.

I have a little used (less than 100 hours) Mitsubishi 3DA-1 3D Adapter available as I have just sold my HL67A750.

It is UNLOCKED - serial number 103059, date of manufacture, August, 2010.

Includes adapter, stand, power supply, and remote control.

$200 + shipping

Glasses available - extra charge.

PM me.

Does anyone here know how much one could get for one of these sets? My HL67A750 purchased in the fall of 2008 is in pristine shape, never having been repaired or having experienced a problem. I'm looking at a move this summer and might have to end up selling this; hence my inquiry.

I've seen a couple on CL around $500. There is currently one for sale in the SF Bay Area that's in good condition (according to the ad) where the owner is asking $575.

That's lower than I would have liked, but I can understand that price range.

It does make you wanna cry, doesn't it? Although I've loved mine and certainly feel I've gotten my money's worth. It makes me wonder what my old HLP-5063 in the bedroom would get. Probably a buck fifty!

I know this is the LED forum but I'm trying to get whatever info I can, this forum seems to have more traffic...

Help! I love this TV and have had ZERO problems until yesterday, I figured it was just a bulb... then I started reading around the internet and and now sure what my problem is.
I got TV in 08 and I'm still on original bulb, yesterday it powered off and tried to cycle back on, I can see ballast fire and bulb tries to light, once in awhile usually after sitting forever it will have start up with a picture and then after about 45-1min just back down.

I took everything apart, cleaned it with compressed air, ballast resistors look fine to me, put it all back together, left bulb out and held down safety switch and I can see color wheel spinning. Put bulb back in and taped safety switch, TV came on, though I fixed it then min later back to same. just cycles. I have to unplug it to turn it off.

Could it still just be a bulb?? or do I have bigger problems......

Thanks guys!

Bulb? What bulb?

Glad to see this thread is still alive.
Late to the party, but trying to get my 2008 HL67A750 to do 3D.
I bought a used panny BDT300, set to checkerboard.
Connected to HDMI3 which is renamed to PC.
I get 'no signal' and the 3D mode is greyed out.
What am I missing ?

Hopefully it's not a defective BDT300. Make sure you are using an HDMI 1.3a cable at a minimum, Also since you are using checkerboard output try the secondary HDMI port.

I thought it *had* to be on HDMI3, no? At any rate, that's what I need to do outputting from an HTPC. And I believe RGB is required as well, isn't it?

Yes, HDMI 3 is the only 3D capable HG\\DMI connection. The player should not be set to RGB that is only for a DVI connection.

I know I read somewhere to set my video card output to RGB. I'm still trying to find that post on some forum, but perhaps it only pertains to HTPC use. I do use a DVI to HDMI cable, though, so maybe I'm confusing things. I know you can't use a resized screen; it has to be 1920 x 1080.

EDIT: I found the reference -- in the manual (of all places, lol), p.32. Colorspace needs to be set to RGB. This is easily demonstrated with my setup -- if I switch to YCbCr on HDMI3, the 3D option in the Tools menu is not available. But, again, I don't have a 3D player, just my HTPC.

I will check switching to RGB.
I'm using a high quality HDMI cable from monoprice.
The bdt300 does fine with 2D and is sending 3D because I tried HDMI2 on the TV and it said 'TV or player not 3d capadible'.

Thanks for the help.

Use HDMI3 (I have mine set to Wide TV) and make sure the player is set to checkerboard. Are you connecting the player directly to the TV or via an AVR? I'm pretty sure the AVR has to be HDMI 1.4 compliant to pass through the 3D signal. I know my Denon 2310C can't, so I have to do a direct connection.

There's also this thread which might be useful to you.

I'm going directly from bdt300 to tv HDMI3.
I tried multiple cables on both HDMI2 and 3.
HDMI2 displays 'tv or player not 3D compatible' which tells me I'm getting 3D from the player to the tv.
HDMI3 displays 'no signal'.
I tried setting player/tv to RGB and Ybrx(?), nothing.
Player is set to checkerboard.
Most telling is I can't get 3D mode to highlight, always greyed out.

I have the BD-200 and its connected to HDMI 3 through my Pioneer Receiver. HDMI 3 is set to PC.
I put in a Stargate DVD 2D, Set the Panny to 2D to 3D conversion, set the spread to +3, set the Samsung to Mode 1.
In that order. As far as cables go I bought the cheapest HDMI I could find. some as cheap as $1.50 and 4 years old they all work perfectly.
If you have no output from your Panny only on HDMI 2I would suspect the TV. Have yu used HDMI 3 input with other things?
Try a standard DVD to HDMI 3 without 3D, do you get a picture? Also make sure the Panny is really in checkerboard sometimes if you set a function and dont save it first it reverts back to standard.

I'm beginning to think it's the HDMI3 port. I put a 2d movie in and it played on HDMI2, but HDMI3 still says 'no signal'.
So dissapointed.

Do you have another device you can plug into HDMI3 to see if the port is working or not?

I do, but if the same player and same cable plays in port2, but not 3, I got to think it's the port.

Yeah, it's hard to argue with that. Did you say you tried a 2D movie in HDMI3 and got "No Signal" as well? That would definitely cement it.

Unfortunately, yes. 2D in HDMI3, 'no signal'.
Anybody want to buy a used bdt-300 and drive angry 3d ????

Maybe if the price is right. I've had a pair of 3D glasses for my Samsung for a while but I have never used them. I never got a 3D player that plays the checkerboard pattern because I typically don't mess with any discs. And then the 3D adapter is even more expensive to use with devices that don't output a checkerboard pattern.

AHHHHHHHHH, My 67" has a nasty grey line going down the left side of the screen extending about 2" from the side. You can still see through the picture but it is a very dark grey! So, I pulled my paperwork on the purchase of it 6/25/2008. And then I find my Mack Warranty paperwork for an additional extended three years. Good damn thing I found it today! 3 DAYS left. I called Mack but got an automated message stating they were closed (even though it was before 6:00 pm, the stated closing time) Then I sent them an email with copies of everything, mack warranty card, receipt from 6th Ave.com and the purchase receipt from Tapeworks Texas for the Mack warranty. Anyone have any idea how Mack handles these? Parts have to be non existent at this point. I did find a post on cnet about a "light tube" being replaced for a guy with the exact same problem as mine. I really really hope they can fix it as I LOVE this set! It is the only TV I have ever kept for more than 2 years!