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2008 Samsung HL67A750 LED DLP owners thread - Page 89

post #2641 of 2719
Quote:
Originally Posted by domingos38 View Post

it works , but u need the mitsubishi adapter

Isn't that a pretty expensive device? How much is it?
post #2642 of 2719
They are expensive, $100+ on ebay. Haven't seen many lately.
post #2643 of 2719
Quote:
Originally Posted by JackB View Post

Isn't that a pretty expensive device? How much is it?


$450
post #2644 of 2719
The 3DC-100S is the one specifically for our tv. You may find the 3DC-1000 cheaper but you'll have to hack it to get it to work. Both use an IR emitter for the 3D though and I believe those type of glasses don't block the red tint that DLP-Link glasses do.
post #2645 of 2719
Quote:
Originally Posted by domingos38 View Post

$450

$450!!!!!!eek.gif Holy crap that is expensive.

One day I'll look at 3D on my set. I bought the 3D glasses last year but I have never used them. But at a price of $450 for the adapter, my only option will be a BD player that outputs the checkerboard format.
post #2646 of 2719
Quote:
Originally Posted by JackB View Post

Isn't that a pretty expensive device? How much is it?

I just sold mine, unlocked, for a hundy. I had forgotten all about the glasses and I have 4 pair of DLP Links, 2 Optoma, 2 Xpands + 20 extra Xpand batteries. PM me with an offer.
post #2647 of 2719
Quote:
Originally Posted by streamerlover View Post

AHHHHHHHHH, My 67" has a nasty grey line going down the left side of the screen extending about 2" from the side. You can still see through the picture but it is a very dark grey! So, I pulled my paperwork on the purchase of it 6/25/2008. And then I find my Mack Warranty paperwork for an additional extended three years. Good damn thing I found it today! 3 DAYS left. I called Mack but got an automated message stating they were closed (even though it was before 6:00 pm, the stated closing time) Then I sent them an email with copies of everything, mack warranty card, receipt from 6th Ave.com and the purchase receipt from Tapeworks Texas for the Mack warranty. Anyone have any idea how Mack handles these? Parts have to be non existent at this point. I did find a post on cnet about a "light tube" being replaced for a guy with the exact same problem as mine. I really really hope they can fix it as I LOVE this set! It is the only TV I have ever kept for more than 2 years!

I know you since got a replacement, but FYI for others that have the same issue--it appears it can be fixed by simply adjusting the illumination knobs as described here:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/758625/shadow-on-left-of-samsung-dlp-screen/2490#post_18141803
The service manual describes a set with this problem as being "out of ilumination" and suggests correcting using the knobs. Judging from responses on the thread, it works. I will be trying it myself as soon as I get around to it, as my set has also developed a slight grey shadow on the left side.
post #2648 of 2719
How do I check the number of hours on the set? I suspect it's in the service menu, right? If so, can someone remind me how to access that? Thx.
post #2649 of 2719
mute -> 1 -> 8 -> 2 -> power

You can find the count under both the "Option Byte" or "Service" tabs.

Be careful, it's easy to make unwanted changes in there.

*Important: Entering the service menu will automatically default all of your user menu settings. So write them down before doing so.
post #2650 of 2719
Thanks. Yeah, I know, "look but don't touch," lol.

LATER: OK, so I have 11,534 hrs and have had the set for 4 1/2 years, so ~2500/year. I actually thought it would be a lot more, seeing as how much I watch. So I've read the life expectancy of these LEDs is 100,000 hrs. Is that true?
Edited by bruce73 - 10/17/12 at 9:40am
post #2651 of 2719
Quote:
Originally Posted by bruce73 View Post

So I've read the life expectancy of these LEDs is 100,000 hrs. Is that true?

No, 100K hours is an exaggeration for PhlatLight LEDs. 50 to 60K is the usual given rating.

Realistically, we'll be lucky to reach 20K hours before one of the three fails. Red is especially prone to failure. It has the lowest maximum heat rating (is the most heat sensitive)....and red's heat sink is last in line for cooling. They installed a little fan just to the right of red's copper thermal plate, but it doesn't help that much.

I like to get in there every few months to make sure that the heat sinks' fins aren't clogged with dust.
Edited by KewlK - 10/17/12 at 2:03pm
post #2652 of 2719
Quote:
Originally Posted by KewlK View Post


No, 100K hours is an exaggeration for PhlatLight LEDs. 50 to 60K is the usual given rating.

Realistically, we'll be lucky to reach 20K hours before one of the three fails. Red is especially prone to failure. It has the lowest maximum heat rating (is the most heat sensitive)....and red's heat sink is last in line for cooling. They installed a little fan just to the right of red's copper thermal plate, but it doesn't help that much.

I like to get in there every few months to make sure that the heat sinks' fins aren't clogged with dust.
Is that an easy job? Are the heat sinks fairly accessible?
post #2653 of 2719
Yes, just remove the bottom back of the cabinet. Ten screws.

Look towards the right side, the heat sinks are enclosed within a black cover.

Peer inside to see if the fins are clean. If not, there are two screws and a few connectors that hold the light assembly in place.

Carefully slide the entire assembly out. Remove the six screws that secure the heat sink cover and vacuum out the blockages.

Reverse order to reassemble.
post #2654 of 2719
Great, thanks. I assume the light assembly fits snuggly so that there's no chance of mis-alignment when you slide it out and back in (?).
post #2655 of 2719
Quote:
Originally Posted by bruce73 View Post

Great, thanks. I assume the light assembly fits snuggly so that there's no chance of mis-alignment when you slide it out and back in (?).

Right, there's really no way to botch alignment (short of accidentally tweeking the adjustment knobs).

The light assembly lies completely flat on top of the cabinet base. Just realign the screw holes and you can be confident that it's centered.
post #2656 of 2719
OK, thanks.
post #2657 of 2719
May be late to post on this subject, but this is a simple adjustment if you have any tech savvy. Once you get the back off, just look at the OU. There are 2 adjusting knobs. I had my son stand in front of the TV as I adjusted each. Once he told me I had the wrong one on the first try, I put it back where it was (marked with white hi-lighter) and tried the second. Had it adjusted in minutes.
BTW, my unit was about 2 years old when this happened. It's now almost 4 years old and I have had no other issues.
post #2658 of 2719
I posted a separate thread about this problem but I should've just posted in here to begin with..

I have the white dots appearing, although that's slowed down, we have about 13 over the past 2 months. Before I go and replace the dmd, I want to find out what is causing the uneven backlighting. It's something that has progressively gotten worse, and I can't be sure as to how long it's been apparent, I really just started noticing it once the dots started sticking. I don't want to replace the dmd for a couple hundred only to find out I'll have to put much more in.

The image is blurred, taken from my phone.

IMAG0840(2).jpg 50k .jpg file
post #2659 of 2719
Hello It's been a while since if been on here, which is probably a good thing since i havent had any problem lately with my unit. Very happy with it. I got a problem with the 3D part, more specifically my PS3. My Directv 3D works perfectly but not my PS3. Im using the 3DC-1000. The PS3 used to work but lately not. I can get it to output in 3D but the picture is reversed ( the left should be on the right and the right should be on the left). Dont know if this is a PS3 issue, maybe with the latest firmware updates. Thanks in advance. Rick
post #2660 of 2719
Quote:
Originally Posted by rickvm View Post

Hello It's been a while since if been on here, which is probably a good thing since i havent had any problem lately with my unit. Very happy with it. I got a problem with the 3D part, more specifically my PS3. My Directv 3D works perfectly but not my PS3. Im using the 3DC-1000. The PS3 used to work but lately not. I can get it to output in 3D but the picture is reversed ( the left should be on the right and the right should be on the left). Dont know if this is a PS3 issue, maybe with the latest firmware updates. Thanks in advance. Rick

Can't you just change the 3D mode on your set to reverse the picture? I know my model (HLT-6187s) has REG and INV modes. If the 3D is reversed you just use the other option. One mode is for IR glasses, the other for DLP Link. Apparently they reverse sync for these two technologies, which is why it is difficult to mix IR and DLP Link glasses without one of the pairs of glasses having a reverse sync button on it.
post #2661 of 2719
No, I dont have that option on my set. I just have mode 1 and mode 2, and neither work. I tested my ps3 about 6 months ago with gran tourismo 5 and worked fine. I started messing with it recently because i got arkam asylum and now the picture on all of them is reversed. there was an update a while back on ps3, and I'm thinking that is the problem. Does anyone else have this same problem?
post #2662 of 2719
OK, so on your set it is Mode 1 which is probably normal L-R and Mode 2 which is reversed R-L. If neither works then it is the PS3. Mine also updated recently. I'll see if it messed up my 3D and let you know. Sometimes you just have to run the auto video set-up again when it updates. But, if the PS3 goes into 3D mode it should work.

Here is the real issue, how is it possible for both modes to be reversed. It makes no sense. If Mode 1 is normal then Mode 2 is reversed. So, one of them has to work normally.
post #2663 of 2719
Quote:
Originally Posted by j.m. View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by streamerlover View Post

AHHHHHHHHH, My 67" has a nasty grey line going down the left side of the screen extending about 2" from the side. You can still see through the picture but it is a very dark grey! So, I pulled my paperwork on the purchase of it 6/25/2008. And then I find my Mack Warranty paperwork for an additional extended three years. Good damn thing I found it today! 3 DAYS left. I called Mack but got an automated message stating they were closed (even though it was before 6:00 pm, the stated closing time) Then I sent them an email with copies of everything, mack warranty card, receipt from 6th Ave.com and the purchase receipt from Tapeworks Texas for the Mack warranty. Anyone have any idea how Mack handles these? Parts have to be non existent at this point. I did find a post on cnet about a "light tube" being replaced for a guy with the exact same problem as mine. I really really hope they can fix it as I LOVE this set! It is the only TV I have ever kept for more than 2 years!

I know you since got a replacement, but FYI for others that have the same issue--it appears it can be fixed by simply adjusting the illumination knobs as described here:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/758625/shadow-on-left-of-samsung-dlp-screen/2490#post_18141803
The service manual describes a set with this problem as being "out of ilumination" and suggests correcting using the knobs. Judging from responses on the thread, it works. I will be trying it myself as soon as I get around to it, as my set has also developed a slight grey shadow on the left side.


Just a quick thank you for the link. I followed it & was able to fix my 67" easily.
Will be doing the same for a good friend with the same set/same shadow problem.
post #2664 of 2719
UPDATE. Did some more tweaking and tried 3D blue rays as well as other 3D games. I got them all to work except for arkham asylum and city. All 3D blu rays work, and 3D tron,gran tourismo 5,black ops,Mortal kombat, but not either of the Arkham games. Any one else have this problem?
post #2665 of 2719
My set is now getting the white dots too. I read some older threads stating that Samsung was replacing the DMD chip free of charge on some TVs. I called Samsung support, and they said that the HL67A... set wasn't covered because it wasn't having a higher than acceptible failure rate. Does this set use a different DMD than the smaller/older DLP RPTVs? If it's the same chip, shouldn't we get the repair for free, too?
post #2666 of 2719
How do I hook up a HW-E450 soundbar to this TV?

Thanks
post #2667 of 2719
Okay, here's a question. There's a small black spot on the screen of my 67A750, close to horizontal center and about 2/3 of the way up the screen. If I look closely at it, it looks a bit taller than it is wide, and doesn't seem to be pixel-shaped; it seems to be just a bit bigger than the surrounding pixels. It's barely visible from a normal seating position, about 8' away, but once I notice it my eye keeps getting pulled in that direction.

Is this a dead mirror, or perhaps something on the lens? What's the best way to determine that? If it's something (dust, grit, etc.) that can be removed, then what's the best way to go about doing that?

Apologies if these are elementary questions; searching for this sort of thing brings up a ton of discussions of white dots, but not so much about other artifacts. Thanks in advance for the advice.
post #2668 of 2719
I have my TV hooked up to my HTPC as a dual monitor. Most viewing is via HDMI1 on Movie mode. But some video content I watch via HDMI3 on Standard mode. I do this with hopes of avoiding the Black Adjust bug involved with switching modes (and because I think video based content looks more natural using Standard).

Switching from one to the other, I can see that each connection will remember what mode it's been set on, but are the mode settings themselves port-dependent or global? It appears they're global, which would defeat my purpose. Can anyone confirm?

EDIT: I guess I can, lol. Did some more playing around and it appears the settings are *not* global. Standard settings on HDMI3 are unique and different from those on HDMI1. Cool, that's what I was after.
Edited by bruce73 - 1/8/13 at 11:22am
post #2669 of 2719
Hi, I'm cross-posting this on the other HL67A750 thread. I've been having an issue with my hl67a750 lately that I can use some advice with. The picture suddenly went out on the set while watching a movie. Full audio but no picture. I tried restarting the set and I get the following behavior:
1. The front panel "LED" light slowly blinks 4-20 times.
2. The power up chime sounds
3. I hear a relay click
4. All three front panel lights flash
5. The set reboots and we go through the same cycle again.

I never get even a flash of a picture during all of this. I've been through the service manual's troubleshooting flowchart and am to the point I need to solder the ground wire to the led driver board and am nervous about doing so. I suppose I'm looking at a new DMD board, possibly an LED driver board, but was hoping someone might have some thoughts before I go much further. I'm really trying to minimize costs and would like to be certain before I spend a couple hundred bucks on this. Thanks in advance for any insight!
post #2670 of 2719
Recently noticed set fluctuating between too red and then too blue. Now no picture ?
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