EV's Recommended & Top Rated DTV Indoor UHF/VHF Set Top Antenna Review Round-Up Guide - Page 59

Out of that group I think the small clear stream would be good. I don't think I could ever convince my wife to have it any higher than the poll however. How would the DA-5200, Winegard Squareshooter, or the Lacrosse do in my situation?

Located in Westminster , SC 29693, have DB2 amp and about 10' above rooftop. Receiving 100% on all UFH channels, however not receiving 13 or 7. Looking at EZ HD, HBU22 or CM 7694 as replacement. Would appreciate any thought. Txs

EV: WHBF returned to VHF-LO on Friday. The UHF Utubes will not pick it up, even 20 miles away, and I am about 28 miles. I tried the MANT 510 again. Even when outside at ground level, no RF4. I tried it again at a friends apartment on the 3rd floor. It will not lock in solid despite moving it all around & adjusting the dipoles.
I rate this one a dud. It did not work in Peoria,IL either, on a previous test.

Txs for the response. So the EZ HD of the three would be the best choice then? Is it entirely different that the RCA ANT751? Txs

One of the stations not far from me (KCWX) is going to be on RF5 when they go live in July. It'll be interesting to hear how many people will be able to pick it up at all, let alone with rabbit ears.

EV (or anyone else):
IDRick provided detailed measurements for the EZ-HD in posts #1643 and #1652.
Can someone compare to RCA ANT751 to see if there are any differences???

PS: What kind of roof is that??? Looks like metal???

On 19June, K6STI replaced Original 5-Element Swept Back Driver Yagi with RevA,
with small improvements in Gain and SWR:
http://www.ham-radio.com/k6sti/vhftv.htm

I updated 4nec2 analysis charts here:
www.imageevent.com/holl_ands/yagis
I did not need to change Folded Dipole Variant...it's still based on Original dimensions.

Please do! That would very useful information! Thanks for posting all the pictures earlier. You have quite a collection of antennas!

Best,

Rick

Good question, EV. I don't know if that would work with your variable attenuator. I personally use individual attenuators. I have 2-20dB's, 1-10dB, 1-6dB, 1-3dB, and 2-1dB.

Hey EV - don't mean to press ya', but when you gonna get to that 1880 clone review? A lot of people have been doing their darnedest to wait patiently for that.

Also, you really should consider doing some more testing with at least hi-VHF - since so many people here have had channels switch back to it, and are now looking for new antennas to deal with it.

Heh, not too surprising a result, the ANT751, being the only vhf-hi antenna of the group, should have outperformed the others by a large margin on channel 7. The AntennaCraft G1483 should have a negative net gain on vhf-hi channel 7.

Since you have the best un-bent-up example of the G1483, could you post the dimensions of it ?
For the elements, I would need center of wire to center of wire measurements of : stub length, length of the legs (Assuming all the legs and stubs are the same length, correct ?) approx wire gauge or diameter of elements, and the distance between the elements (feedpoint distance) and the reflector to element distance.
For the reflector rods, I would need the center of rod to center of rod measurements of each of the split reflector rods (I assume they are split) and the gap distance, the vertical distance each rod to each other, and the diameter of the rods (it looks like common 3/8 inch stuff).
Is the boom 3/4 inch square or 1 inch square ? I would need a rough discription of the boom to element standoffs, distance at bottom and top (it looks like a 1/2 inch aluminum strip about 1/16 inch thick ?) Thanks.

If the G1483 is true to form with most of rest of the GH colinear rod models, then an addition of a 31.5 inch NAROD (Not A Reflector Or Director) should give you positive net gain on channels 7, 8, 9. Position a (youll need 2) 31.5 inch straight wire of similiar diameter as the element, exactly .5 inches center of wire to center of wire parallel and above the top stubs and below the bottom stubs. The wire is electrically isolated from any other part of the antenna, ie its free floating with just plastic strips holding it in place. A picture is better than describing, so when finished the G1483 should look something like this:

The compromise with the NAROD vhf-hi versions is about a .5 to 1.5 dbi less uhf gain, mostly with a gain dip in the channel 40 region.
For channels 10, 11, 12, 13 use a 28.0 inch NAROD length.
For channels 8,9,10 and a good compromise overall, use a 30.25 inch NAROD length.
For additional gain on channels 7,8,9 but harder and trickier to install, you could put a NAROD reflector 12.5 inches behind the NAROD. (For channels 10 to 13, the distance is 10 inches. For channels 8, 9, 10 the distance is 11.5 inches)

@EscapeVelocity

I think I am going to buy the Channel Master 2016 and 50' of RG-6 since it is cheap and has good performance. I will try it first without any amplification. I have a few other questions however. What is the best way to mount it to the poll, which is actually not a poll at all but a tall 4x4 piece of wood. Can I mount it to the top without buying any extra hardware? If I have to I could buy the clearstream j-mount which might just mount to the very top of the wood. Or, is there something similar that would be cheaper. Also, we are going to be running a new electrical line for our new electric range and one for a new outlet for where the TV will go in the same conduit. I was thinking of running the coax cable for the tv through the same whole in the back of the house (Not in the conduit but it will run next to it). Will this affect the signal in anyway being so close to so much current?