The Official Pioneer 9G Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 374

Originally Posted by progprog

No problem. So what have you decided to do (if anything) about that loose bezel?

Originally Posted by James W. Johnson

there is no way in hell I would ever have mine recalibrated.

I am sure D-Nice is happy too

Originally Posted by AKFlyfish

I must be going crazy. I bought an Elite 1540 ( 7 G ) on March 15 2007. TV wowed me. Afew months ago I bought an Elite 110 for my bedroom ( 8G ) It looked so good I sold my 1540 for a big loss and as of today own an Elite 151. I hope I won't find the 10G's so compelling I gotta have 1 of those. Breaking in as of 10:00 AM today and so far my 8G tweaked Elite 110 looks better than this new one. I feel pretty sure after breakin and calibration the 151 will look better, but right now my 110 looks better.

Originally Posted by Jack in the Box

Hey folks,

I have an 46" XBR8 that has a bad case of cloudiness when Game Mode is enabled. I was in the process of exchanging it for a new one when I noticed another store had the 50" Kuro Elite PRO-111FD on sale for only $150 more then I paid for my XBR8 - a heck of a deal that puts the Kuro Elite within consieration when before it was just too expensive. This has made me reconsider exchanging my defective XBR8 for a new one and simpkly returning it for the Pioneer. I have a couple questions though:

1) I would use the TV for gaming on my Xbox 360. It wouldn't be it's primary purpose, that would be for HDTV viewing, and movies (Blu-Ray,HD-DVD, DVD). But I do game, primarily rythym games, like Rock Band/Guitar Hero, but also Arcade games, FPS'es, etc.. Longest I've ever gone in one sitting was ~2.5 hours. Usually it's 1-1.5 hours at a time. Pioneer's manual says to be aware of image retention issues. Any idea how much of a concern that is? Should this set even be in consideration if gaming will be one of it's uses sine they tend to have items like maps or health meters that can be static on the screen for the duration of the gaming session.

2) My wife and I watch very little 4:3 content, but most Blu-Ray/HD-DVD movies have the black bars on the top and bottom of the screen. Would I need to zoom in to have it go full screen to allow for equal use of the phosphors or it a minor concern with the latest screens? The manual says to try and avoid large amounts of 4:3 viewing and I would assume that would apply to movie's with the letterboxing on the top and bottom too, right?

Thanks.

Originally Posted by progprog

If you're using those torch-mode break-in settings, pretty much anything will look better! I don't think break-in, per se, improves the PQ, but simply hours on the set "mellow" it a bit, and yes, it does improve somewhat over time. AV Mode and settings make a huge difference as well, as I'm sure you're aware from your previous Kuro experience.

Originally Posted by AKFlyfish

Can I tweak this set now? Is there a breakin setting I should use? Can I schedule ISF now or wait until breakin is over? Sorry for the barrage of questions but I have been away from the forum for awhile. My 110 was a display model so I did not have to breakin before calibrating. Thanks for you help!
Jim

Originally Posted by sk20

We buy stuff that lasts and only upgrade when there is a clear improvement. We had our last flat panel for five years, and bought a 141 to replace it, which was sooner than usual, but that's because we always regarded the previous display as temporary until true 1080ps came out at a not-insane price, and with 10" more diagonal.

Our next display will be a 70" OLED, in a decade or so.

We have tube power amps from 15 years ago. If you buy quality, it lasts.

Originally Posted by mf1111

And in those ten years you won't be drooling at the mouth every time you read the posts about the newest Elite.I know I wouldn't be able to resist. How many Pioneer PRO-1110HD owners can come here and not whip out the plastic even though they forked over 15gs a mere 4 years ago.Geez, reality please, this ain't Fox News.And you can't compare this technology to your power amp. I still have POLKS I bought in 1986 which are better sounding than most speakers sold today.HDTVs is a totally different animal with major improvement coming with each new line.

Originally Posted by progprog

The whole break-in thing is kind of controversial, but I think the notion that it's a good idea to wait 100-200 hours to calibrate is pretty widely accepted. (My own calibrator recommended at least 100...)

You can absolutely watch and tweak the set now, all you want. There are "break-in settings" (torch-mode ) that are only supposed to be used with the solid break-in images. Some use them, some don't.

As I've pointed out before, I've broken in Kuros each way- using the break-in "procedure," just watching regular content, and employing the hybrid method of mixing them up. I can honestly say I didn't see a bit of difference in how the TVs responded. The PQ mellows and evens out gradually over the first 100-200 hours, no matter what those hours consist of.

Originally Posted by AKFlyfish

Can I tweak this set now? Is there a breakin setting I should use? Can I schedule ISF now or wait until breakin is over? Sorry for the barrage of questions but I have been away from the forum for awhile. My 110 was a display model so I did not have to breakin before calibrating. Thanks for you help!
Jim

Originally Posted by AKFlyfish

Thanks a bunch for your quick response. Going to tweak away and after 100 hours or so ISF calibrate.

There is no question that these displays need breaking-in. Out of the box, the default settings rendered a grayscale that was too warm as well as green. During the 213-hour break-in process, the display became warmer and more green - not dramatically so, but enough to warrant putting in some hours before making an appointment for calibration. Plus, it's never a bad idea to wait a few weeks to ensure that you don't have a lemon anyway.

As a side note, it appears that color space has become slightly more accurate over time despite making no adjustments to the Color Management system

Originally Posted by mf1111

And in those ten years you won't be drooling at the mouth every time you read the posts about the newest Elite.I know I wouldn't be able to resist..

Originally Posted by Jack in the Box

2) My wife and I watch very little 4:3 content, but most Blu-Ray/HD-DVD movies have the black bars on the top and bottom of the screen. Would I need to zoom in to have it go full screen to allow for equal use of the phosphors or it a minor concern with the latest screens? The manual says to try and avoid large amounts of 4:3 viewing and I would assume that would apply to movie's with the letterboxing on the top and bottom too, right?.

Originally Posted by sk20

My biggest worry about buying another plasma was retention of the letterbox and 4:3 bars, but the 141 (and I assume the 151) doesn't have that problem.

Originally Posted by progprog

If you're using those torch-mode break-in settings, pretty much anything will look better! I don't think break-in, per se, improves the PQ, but simply hours on the set "mellow" it a bit, and yes, it does improve somewhat over time. AV Mode and settings make a huge difference as well, as I'm sure you're aware from your previous Kuro experience.

Originally Posted by sk20

My biggest worry about buying another plasma was retention of the letterbox and 4:3 bars, but the 141 (and I assume the 151) doesn't have that problem.

Originally Posted by Jack in the Box

Hey folks,

I have an 46" XBR8 that has a bad case of cloudiness when Game Mode is enabled. I was in the process of exchanging it for a new one when I noticed another store had the 50" Kuro Elite PRO-111FD on sale for only $150 more then I paid for my XBR8 - a heck of a deal that puts the Kuro Elite within consieration when before it was just too expensive. This has made me reconsider exchanging my defective XBR8 for a new one and simpkly returning it for the Pioneer. I have a couple questions though:

1) I would use the TV for gaming on my Xbox 360. It wouldn't be it's primary purpose, that would be for HDTV viewing, and movies (Blu-Ray,HD-DVD, DVD). But I do game, primarily rythym games, like Rock Band/Guitar Hero, but also Arcade games, FPS'es, etc.. Longest I've ever gone in one sitting was ~2.5 hours. Usually it's 1-1.5 hours at a time. Pioneer's manual says to be aware of image retention issues. Any idea how much of a concern that is? Should this set even be in consideration if gaming will be one of it's uses sine they tend to have items like maps or health meters that can be static on the screen for the duration of the gaming session.

2) My wife and I watch very little 4:3 content, but most Blu-Ray/HD-DVD movies have the black bars on the top and bottom of the screen. Would I need to zoom in to have it go full screen to allow for equal use of the phosphors or it a minor concern with the latest screens? The manual says to try and avoid large amounts of 4:3 viewing and I would assume that would apply to movie's with the letterboxing on the top and bottom too, right?

Thanks.

Originally Posted by prepress

I think most electronics benefit from some sort of break-in. With CD players the sound improves over time as the circuits, capacitors and such adjust. I noticed subtle improvements in my 111 as the hours piled up, most notably improvement in the blacks.

Originally Posted by AKFlyfish

I must be going crazy. I bought an Elite 1540 ( 7 G ) on March 15 2007. TV wowed me. Afew months ago I bought an Elite 110 for my bedroom ( 8G ) It looked so good I sold my 1540 for a big loss and as of today own an Elite 151. I hope I won't find the 10G's so compelling I gotta have 1 of those. Breaking in as of 10:00 AM today and so far my 8G tweaked Elite 110 looks better than this new one. I feel pretty sure after breakin and calibration the 151 will look better, but right now my 110 looks better.

Originally Posted by rangoh

Thank you Roman for the great price quote you gave me for the 151,I have been sitting on the fence for a while,however after reading these forums with the loose bezel,cracked glass,buzzing and dead pixels I think I will wait for the new phannys and pio's come out,hopefully their quality control will have improved,Roman if you were close to me I certainly would not think twice before buying from you,please continue to keep us updated on pioneers and panasonics plans on the new sets coming out

Originally Posted by Jack in the Box

Hey folks,

I have an 46" XBR8 that has a bad case of cloudiness when Game Mode is enabled. I was in the process of exchanging it for a new one when I noticed another store had the 50" Kuro Elite PRO-111FD on sale for only $150 more then I paid for my XBR8 - a heck of a deal that puts the Kuro Elite within consieration when before it was just too expensive. This has made me reconsider exchanging my defective XBR8 for a new one and simpkly returning it for the Pioneer. I have a couple questions though:

1) I would use the TV for gaming on my Xbox 360. It wouldn't be it's primary purpose, that would be for HDTV viewing, and movies (Blu-Ray,HD-DVD, DVD). But I do game, primarily rythym games, like Rock Band/Guitar Hero, but also Arcade games, FPS'es, etc.. Longest I've ever gone in one sitting was ~2.5 hours. Usually it's 1-1.5 hours at a time. Pioneer's manual says to be aware of image retention issues. Any idea how much of a concern that is? Should this set even be in consideration if gaming will be one of it's uses sine they tend to have items like maps or health meters that can be static on the screen for the duration of the gaming session.

2) My wife and I watch very little 4:3 content, but most Blu-Ray/HD-DVD movies have the black bars on the top and bottom of the screen. Would I need to zoom in to have it go full screen to allow for equal use of the phosphors or it a minor concern with the latest screens? The manual says to try and avoid large amounts of 4:3 viewing and I would assume that would apply to movie's with the letterboxing on the top and bottom too, right?

Thanks.

Originally Posted by ncfoster

Obviously, none of us can guarantee that you will receive a perfect panel, and I think anyone ordering something this expensive online is going to have some natural fear of damage during shipping, etc., I think that you are reading far too much into these isolated incidents. While my heart goes out to the guy with the cracked panel issue, he has posted a lot of times, and many people have responded, precisely because it is so out of the ordinary.

Originally Posted by Hedge-Hog

Oh yeah, got my 151FD...just plugged it in and watched some BD. Wowser. It seems to be better than the store unit I was reviewing. SD sucks badly but I expected that. HD cable was not that great neither except for Nat Geographic HD.

The buzzing is there but I can't notice it when anything is playing through the speakers. There's a high pitch whine that never goes away but ,as the buzz, gets drowned out by audio.

Anyhoo, one thing that perplexes me is the green line on the right when using dot-by-dot for my HD cablebox (Motorola DCT3416). It's not there with BD. I tried searching but there was no definitive explanation nor solution. Anyone experience this?

Oh, the shiny bezel is a dust and cat hair magnet.

Cheers,
-H

Originally Posted by ssabripo

Finally got my 111FD up and running after breakin....wow, magnificent PQ!

got a couple of questions:


I watched a bluray at 1080p24, and I still saw some judder in PureCinema = ADVANCED. I tried it in OFF, and it was worse, but I'm wondering what the conclusion on this is. For some reason I thought the 72hz mode would eliminate almost all the judder. Any ideas?

Originally Posted by hifi59

I feel the same way. read this article to understand why.
http://www.projectorcentral.com/judder_24p.htm