The Official Pioneer 9G Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 554

I'd think it'd be fine for at least a couple of days. I moved my old TV and it was unplugged for a good length of time. All settings were still intact afterwards.

I'm sure someone else could give you a much more solid estimate on the Pioneers.

I would tihnk these settings are in a EPROM of some sort which would give them a long life-but I am not sure.

I go away once in a while for a long while. When I am away, I unplug everything except my DTV DVRs. So next trip will provide some estimates for me on this. perhaps an expert on the Pioneers can tell us for sure.



Joel

Please explain "EPROM" to a layman?

You will NOT lose your ISF settings by unplugging the display, even for an extended period of time. You will not lose your user settings if you unplug your display,even for an extended period of time. You will not lose your ISF settings , if you do a "reset" from the user menu. You *will* lose your user settings (they will be reset bak to factory default) if you do a "reset" from the user menu.

Whats the difference between the service menus? im guessing the real service menu can only be accessed by a pro calibrater?

I want CC mainly so i can see how many hours the tv has been used. especially with me buying the tv from BB, they like to sell you tv's that people already used and returned. i hate that. that happened to somebody here, his kuro has over 80 hours of use.

EPROM = Erasable Programable Read Only Memory. This device requires data to be written to it by a special device and while that data can be changed, it must be put back into the special device, erased - then rewritten.

Not to be confused with what the settings data in your display are actually stored in...

NVRAM = Non-Volatile Random Access Memory. This is a device, similar to an EPROM, in that it can be written to more than once and will not lose the contents, if power is removed. However, this device operates almost exactly like regular RAM (memory). It does not require removal and insertion into a special device to write data to it.

When you make settings changes to your display, you are writing to the display's internal NVRAM.

This is a very simplified description, however, suffice to say that you generally do not need to be concerned with losing data written to NVRAM. Unlike regular RAM (memory) - data is not lost when power is removed.

EEPROM is non-volatile and can be changed in place without special devices.

That's probably what's in the Kuros.

ControlCAL provides a graphical interface through which you can access and adjust the ISFccc profiles. These profiles are self contained and do not allow full service menu access.

Having the proper discrete code would get you into the service menu, but you could potentially do major harm to your set if you don't know exactly what you're doing in there.

They use FeRAM. It is cheaper (to purchase) and requires no major design constraints, like a charge pump. Therefore it is simpler, too.

EEPROMS are becoming significantly less prevalent these days.

Hi,

I am interested to calibrate my new pioneer elite 151 FD.

People in the forum mentioned that i need to put minimum 200 hours on the display before calibrating the TV.

How can I find display hours on my new elite 151 FD ??

Thanks in advance.

This comes up very frequently. You cannot get to that information using the owner's remote you have. The easiest way is to get ControlCAL with the appropriate profile for your panel. That said, if you're just trying to get to 200 hours, there's no need to be too precise about it. Just estimate what you've put on it so far (average hrs/day....etc), and keep track for the next week or so.

How do I get in touch with D-Nice?

Happy to report that I had the one and only D-Nice calibrate my 111 today. I thought it was a pretty great set before he arrived, and now I'm of the opinion that it is indeed perfect post-calibration.

If you're on the fence about having a pro-calibration, and you want to see your set at 100% of it's capabilities, go for it, it's a great investment if you plan on keeping your set for a few years. Prior to today I thought that Standard and Optimum were "good enough" on the 9g's in terms of daytime performance--to the point that I considered returning the Elite for a 500M. I was totally wrong in that regard--the ISF Day/Auto modes dust them completely. ISF Night makes me wonder if I'll ever really use Pure again.

And I must tip my hat to Mr. D-Nice, who was prompt and professional all the way through. I would definitely recommend him in a heartbeat and if you're thinking about having your Kuro calibrated, check with him to see if he'll be going through your neck of the woods any time soon.

Thanks, D-Nice!

try sending him a PM

REALLY!!! there has to be answer

Long time lurker who is exhausted from searching this thread for some answers, maybe you guys can help me

ok guys i just got a 151 what the hell was pioneer thinking separating out analog and digital signal via a button and why (unless i'm missing something) cant i combine the channels.

I can definitely see that it is nice to be able to separate the dig. channels but this is a channel surfers nightmare- Manual is of no help to me

I only have basic cable from wall plugged into my tv directly, no STB etc.

Also, MY clock is always an hour off no matter if DST is selected or not is anyone else having this issue

Thanks! AVS is great for learning new stuff like this.

Here's a good article on FeRAM, which I'd never heard of until five minutes ago:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferroelectric_RAM

You can email him by clicking his name on this LIST - that email address is for those interested in having him Calibrate their display(s).

Welcome!
This is a known unresolved bug --please see this post in this thread.

Hey everybody, I've already searched for this extensively and haven't found any good solutions up to this point, so hopefully you can help. I'm trying to find a center channel speaker that will fit on top of the front part of my pro-111fd stand but not block the screen. I believe there is only 3.5" of height to work with. I bought a Bose vcs-10 and it's terrible. It doesn't block the screen and it looks good, but it sounds so muddy that I can't stand it and I plan on taking it back to BB as soon as I can find a replacement. Any suggestions would be appreciated, thanks in advance.

Thank you for the re-phrasing. Yes... this is a reasonable summary of my views to date. I'm interested to see the numerical difference from an entirely different panel that also went through the very same break-in process and then had a pro-calibration.

I think it would be very instructive and enlightening, at least from my perspective (although I suspect for others as well). Think of it as a double-blind evaluation of the quality control of the Elite panels manufacturing.

The less significant the differences (if there are any) in the settings between the independently pro-calibrated panel and D-Nice's posted settings for a panel that followed his break-in process, the tighter the original manufacturing quality control.

It would be hard to find a better approach for making such an evaluation. The more settings posted, the greater the differences will be understood by all. If the differences are great (on panels with a common break-in process), the more value there is in getting a pro-calibration, even if you have CC. The more similar the settings are, the less value will be realized between using D-nice's settings and a pro-calibration.

For those not using CC, the value of a pro-calibration is undeniable. The question is whether there's value in a pro-calibration above the use of CC and D-Nice's posted settings (for those panels that followed his break-in). The law of averages will determine that value in the differences between separate pro-calibrated panels that went through a common break-in.

So far, the best objective data to answer your question are found in the post where DNice posted the measured differences between a panel that has gone through the DNice break-in and that same panel after it has been professionally calibrated. That post is here.

The pdfs show the measured differences, which IMHO are more precise and meaningful than the number of clicks/number of settings difference between the before and after settings.

It might be interesting to see the actual number of clicks difference in each setting, but since they wouldn't completely apply to anyone else's set (and environment) except the owner's, I am a little doubtful of the external validity of the settings.

Just my two cents...

I did the break in on my 141. I have done this on all plasma panels that I owned. The first 100-200 hours are so critical in a plasma's life, that even though D-Nice specifically says that break in is not to be done to reduce IR, I firmly believe that aging the phosphors this way does reduce the possibility of burn in. You'll find people on both sides of this thought.

There are no D-Nice provided settings for the 141, but SillySally & others have posted settings. They all look very nice on *my* 141, too I am sticking with SillySallys for now. With each passing day, I am leaning toward doing my own calibration. So, while not a professional calibrator, when/if I do this, I'll post my settings here. I'm sure folks like D-Nice, Peter, Turbe and others will comment on them and we'll all learn a little.

Your experience has mimic'd mine. I am holding off posting a report about my calibration experience until D-Nice can get me a forum post-able calibration report for my 1010HD. D-Nice calibrated a 141FD and a 1010HD for me on Saturday. I felt bad I had monopolized so much time from as he literally spent almost the entire day doing both my panels as I was his only appointment that day.

Hey guys, just looking for some advice on a good power conditioner to use for my 111,SC-07, and other gear. I apologize for it being off-topic, just looking for some help. Looking to spend no more than $350.

Thanks

Take a look at the Definitive Technology ProCenter1000.

Unfortunately D-nice did not provide the settings that went with the respective graphs. Many of the calibration graphs posted by users are interesting but maybe I just don't get what purpose they serve to others in the absence of the settings that went with them. As an aside, why would others find value in reviewing the calibration reports of a panel other than their own since there's no useful data that can be used to improve the PQ of their own TV? Maybe I'm missing the point of posting these reports...which is likely.

Of course they are interesting and show how close or far a particular panel was able to achieve against the standard, but of what value are these reports to others without the settings that go with them? Are they just a curiosity or is there useful information in these graphic reports that can benefit other owners of a similar panel?

If the settings are of no value to use by others, then what purpose or value does the sharing of the calibration reports serve?

The analog/digital tuner flub becomes less of an issue as even the cable channels are converted to digital. About 50 shifted on Comcast in the SF Bay Area a week ago. However, without at least a Digital Transport Adaptor, you'll have to relearn a whole new set of channel assignments with digital sub-channel numbers. MSNBC used to be analog 60, now it's 90.5 digital. A DTA or other cable box (Comcast provides 3 for free) will be necessary to map back to what you've been used to.

Use an earlier time zone. e.g. if you live in the Pacific Zone, set your 151 to Mountain. DST has no effect.

Are you living next to a factory? If not, don't get a power conditioner. A good surge protector is adequate.

I apologize--I think I must have misunderstood your desire--all along, I had interpreted your original question to mean that you wanted to know what was the actual difference in performance between a DNice broken-in set using his settings versus the same set when calibrated. The calibration reports that DNice posted give this information--for example, there is a difference in the color temperature before and after. I think the primary usefulness of these reports is to demonstrate the clear difference before and after a professional calibration. True, you can't use them to improve your set, but it may serve as justification for some readers to try a pro calibration.

However, after reading your last post, it seems that you are suggesting it would be useful to others to know settings that worked for some, so that readers can plug these settings into their televisions in the hopes of improving on the original DNice's settings. With respect, I remain doubtful that this will work for the following reason (and, DNice, please correct me if I'm way off base here):

The DNice settings are designed to work for the majority of sets to get them in close proximity of a truly calibrated set. They are meant to work on average for the majority of sets, and are based on the range of sets DNice has calibrated. However, when these settings are refined by a professional calibration, I suspect the revised settings become too particular to the specific set to be of use to anyone else--unless your set is identical to the one in question. Moreover, if every set varied from his original DNice settings in the exact same way, DNice would have surely noted this as well.

It's similar to the difference between a one size fits all baseball cap versus a fitted cap. There is a much greater likelihood that one's head will fit well into the former than in the latter, unless your head just happens to be the particular size if the fitted cap.

Obviously, DNice's settings are a lot more precise than that, but I think it's an apt analogy as far as it goes.

In any event, sorry for veering so far OT--I'll be quiet and let other more knowledgable folks comment on this issue from here on out.

Thanks, unfortunately the procenter 1000 is 5" tall and I only have 3 7/16" to work with. Any other ideas? I know this is a really limited amount space, and that sound quality will likely have to suffer, but because of the size of my tv stand I don't really have any other options besides setting a speaker behind the tv.