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The Official Pioneer 9G Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 60

post #1771 of 28857
7/14/08 at 1:38pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by umr View Post

.... For example, I have seen video and audio problems with Yamaha's latest models.

Oh, that's too bad. I've never owned one myself, buy they seem to have a devoted following.
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post #1772 of 28857
7/14/08 at 1:41pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by umr View Post

I would look at Onkyo in the low price category. They are not prefect, but do not have critical flaws.

Thanks Jeff.
That's the direction I was headed.
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post #1773 of 28857
7/14/08 at 1:53pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by umr View Post

Denon is a great brand, but not all are good. For example, I have seen video and audio problems with Yamaha's latest models. Many people are completely unaware of the problems in their audio gear.

Jeff, I never heard of any audio issues with the newest Yamahas. They seem to have gotten pretty universal praise on that front. In fact I've heard of far more issues on the audio side with Onkyo. However, the Yamaha video clipping is an issue that I feel is easily overcome if you don't intend to play video games and such where video info in that range may exist.

The display can be calibrated by first going from the source direct to the display. Once the adjustments are complete, the receiver can be put on the same HDMI path (same input) with no adverse effect since the calibration has already taken place and BTB is no longer an issue. In fact, I've heard of only one movie where encoding was screwy and there was BTB info. I've looked at many sources going direct to my Pioneer Kuro and then plugging the Yamaha 3800 in the path. I see no difference whatsoever, but I'm not a gamer and don't have XBOX and such.
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post #1774 of 28857
7/14/08 at 2:01pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mycroft1888 View Post

I may be beating a dead horse, but for completeness, the term "anamorphic" as it relates to DVDs is not the same as it relates to lenses and filming.

Thanks. That helps me understand why I didn't understand progprog's comments. I was coming from the point of view of DVD authoring without realizing that there was a distinction.

Quote:
Letterbox bars are usually present due to the aspect ratio of the film. Some older DVDs that were issued without the anamorphic process may have letterbox bars and people may look squished vertically even though they are 1.78:1 films. You would need to zoom the picture to correct for the 16:9 TV in that case.

I've seen older films that are labeled Letterbox where the aspect ratio was correct when displayed with black bars on all sides. Using Zoom appeared to enlarge the image an equal amount in all directions. To use Zoom with our Kuro we have to input the signal at something other than 1080i 0r 1080p.
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post #1775 of 28857
7/14/08 at 2:11pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by russwong View Post

... but as a side note, RS232 input is a much riskier process as if anyone who has worked with computers and networking devices and the telnet protocol you can send errant commands.

This is a side note on software reliability in general. As a very long time user of most of the browsers that have come into the market, my 9.51 version of Opera is doing something that is very strange. Or Opera in combination with the AVS web site is strange.

Last night and today I've found myself in edit mode at AVS where clicking on most any area of the screen would activate a link to another web site. In both cases I shut down Opera to clear the problem. At this moment the edit screen is working fine.

Maybe it's not a bug, but a message from some higher power that I've been posting too much.
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post #1776 of 28857
7/14/08 at 2:32pm
Bump. D-nice? Anyone else running a 111FD?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gixxer1 View Post

So what settings should I use on my new 111FD when watching BD movies guy's?
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post #1777 of 28857
7/14/08 at 2:50pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gixxer1 View Post

Bump. D-nice? Anyone else running a 111FD?

I should have some "starter" settings tomorrow night after the replacement panel gets in. I will not have any reference settings until sometime next week.
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post #1778 of 28857
7/14/08 at 3:12pm
Sweeet!!! I'm currently doing the 150hr break-in on it using your 8g settings and the Evangelo's DVD-R. So that will take a week and by then you should have some reference settins for us.

Oh, one other question, will it hurt the display to let the Break-In DVD constantly for the whole 150hrs or should I shut it off and give the panel a rest in between sessions? Also the DVD player I'm using is hooked up by component video and only goes up to 480P does it matter?

Thanks again

Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

I should have some "starter" settings tomorrow night after the replacement panel gets in. I will not have any reference settings until sometime next week.
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post #1779 of 28857
7/14/08 at 3:37pm
I thank you all for your suggestions. It was a big help.
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post #1780 of 28857
7/14/08 at 3:53pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mycroft1888 View Post


Letterbox bars are usually present due to the aspect ratio of the film. Some older DVDs that were issued without the anamorphic process may have letterbox bars and people may look squished vertically even though they are 1.78:1 films. You would need to zoom the picture to correct for the 16:9 TV in that case.

Trying to help you, though anyone could ring in if I'm wrong...

Older DVDs that have letterboxed bars don't have people that look squished if you watch the letterboxed movie on a 4:3 screen and the DVD player is set to play correctly on a 4:3 screen.

Older DVDs that have letterboxed bars don't have people that look squished if you watch the letterboxed movie on a 16x9 screen and the DVD player is set to play correctly on a 16x9 display. The TV should pillar box the whole image and if it does not, then the TV would have to be set at a 4:3 setting.

In either case, the image should be correct.

I don't know of any movies "filmed" with a 1.78:1 ratio as that would be a HD format recorded via a HD video camera.

Todays movies are GENERALLY 1.85:1 and 2.35:1
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post #1781 of 28857
7/14/08 at 3:55pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by coltsfreak18 View Post

Ok... You guys all know how I have a defective 151 (or what I assume as defective). Thanks to a convenient BB return policy (yet employees who try to use Monster screen clean on my new display), I am getting a new 151 on Friday. The blotches on my current display aren't as apparent as before, but they are still pretty bad. Buzz is still audible at 21 feet and with power save mode 2 on at 11 feet.


I hope the best for you on Friday!!!
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post #1782 of 28857
7/14/08 at 3:57pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by progprog View Post

Oh, that's too bad. I've never owned one myself, buy they seem to have a devoted following.

I have owned several of their products, but this year they have gone astray.
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post #1783 of 28857
7/14/08 at 4:17pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thebarnman View Post

I don't know of any movies "filmed" with a 1.78:1:1 ratio as that would be a HD format recorded via a HD video camera.

Here's a random sample from our local library. The aspect ratios are from the box, Netflix, or IMDB depending on where I could find them.

Mona Lisa 1986 1.78:1 Letterbox
My Best Friend 1.78:1 Anamorphic
Panic 2000 1.78:1 Anamorphic
Prince of the City 1981 1.78:1 Anamorphic
Sherrybaby 2006 1.78:1 Anamorphic
The Gathering Storm 2003 1.78:1 Anamorphic
Blissfully Yours 2001 1.78:1 Anamorphic
Climates 2006 1.78:1 Anamorphic
Cyclo 1995 1.78:1 Letterbox
The Crime of Padre Amaro 2002 1.78:1 Anamorphic
Matchstick Men 2003 1.78:1 Unknown
The Day of the Locust 144M 1975 1.78:1 Unknown

It seems to me that 1.85:1 aspect ratios are popular with major film producers for comedy and romance, and that ~2.35:1 is popular for adventure and block buster films.

Most of these films are foreign, and as far as I know, none of them were made with a HD video camera.

Quote:


Edit: Maybe a good place to continue this discussion would be in the "black bar" thread that's linked at the bottom of my post.
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post #1784 of 28857
7/14/08 at 4:24pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gixxer1 View Post

Sweeet!!! I'm currently doing the 150hr break-in on it using your 8g settings and the Evangelo's DVD-R. So that will take a week and by then you should have some reference settins for us.

Oh, one other question, will it hurt the display to let the Break-In DVD constantly for the whole 150hrs or should I shut it off and give the panel a rest in between sessions? Also the DVD player I'm using is hooked up by component video and only goes up to 480P does it matter?

Thanks again

No problems running it for 150 straight and component is fine if the whole screen is filled.
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post #1785 of 28857
7/14/08 at 4:32pm
I am using D-Nice's reference settings for the 110 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=858851 as starter settings for my 111, and they work pretty well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gixxer1 View Post

Bump. D-nice? Anyone else running a 111FD?
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post #1786 of 28857
7/14/08 at 4:44pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Ross View Post

Jeff, I never heard of any audio issues with the newest Yamahas. They seem to have gotten pretty universal praise on that front. In fact I've heard of far more issues on the audio side with Onkyo. However, the Yamaha video clipping is an issue that I feel is easily overcome if you don't intend to play video games and such where video info in that range may exist.

The display can be calibrated by first going from the source direct to the display. Once the adjustments are complete, the receiver can be put on the same HDMI path (same input) with no adverse effect since the calibration has already taken place and BTB is no longer an issue. In fact, I've heard of only one movie where encoding was screwy and there was BTB info. I've looked at many sources going direct to my Pioneer Kuro and then plugging the Yamaha 3800 in the path. I see no difference whatsoever, but I'm not a gamer and don't have XBOX and such.

The problem is not BTB. That is not a real issue. The problem is WTW is clipped. This is found in program material. The other problem I am finding is bass management on surrounds with 7.1 systems. My main problem with these is Yamaha is telling people there is no problem instead of issuing a firmware upgrade.
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post #1787 of 28857
7/14/08 at 4:45pm
CWest, the variance in brightness and black levels might yield less than ideal results between the 8G and 9G settings, though.
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post #1788 of 28857
7/14/08 at 4:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by umr View Post

I have owned several of their products, but this year they have gone astray.

They went astray when they changed the volume display to that idiot bar instead of the db readings.
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post #1789 of 28857
7/14/08 at 4:49pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by umr View Post

The problem is not BTB. That is not a real issue. The problem is WTW is clipped. This is found in program material. The other problem I am finding is bass management on surrounds with 7.1 systems.

What you are saying...goes way over my head. I feel that I am fairly up to speed with video, but way behind on audio.

Which is why I do something that probably makes someone in your position cringe....I buy Sony receivers so that I can use the auto calibration feature and then tweak it to my liking. Without that to get me started it would be a huge headache for me.

For example, I will be buying an STR-DG520 to replace my STR-K700...because it includes more connections for optical & coaxial audio. Right now I only have one of each and I need at least two optical.

I know...probably not wise, but a fairly cheap mistake to make.
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post #1790 of 28857
7/14/08 at 4:56pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by progprog View Post

Speaking of control, has anybody programmed their Kuro into a universal remote yet? Or anybody using RS-232 control? I'm having trouble with Pioneer's HEX codes- some work and some don't.

I'm not getting into hex codes, but I did just purchase 2 Harmony One remotes. (One for the sofa, one for the bar) They will replace an older Harmony 880, that had a charging cradle problem.

The 151 is in Logitech's database, and I was easily able to set up all of my devices. I put in the 151, a Denon 3808ci, Denon 3800, Denon 3910, DirecTV HR-20, and an older Panasonic DVD recorder and a Sony CD changer.

All activities/devices are working perfectly; I only added a keystroke for the bottom-screen Tools menu on the TV. (And the charging cradles on the H-1s are great!)
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post #1791 of 28857
7/14/08 at 5:00pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by progprog View Post

While the anamorphic process is technically possible with any widescreen format, the 2x anamorphic lens is the standard, and results in a 2.35:1 aspect ratio. The other widescreen formats, such as 1.85:1, are always shot with matted aperatures instead. It does seem to be true that most movies being made these days are anamorphic, as the 2.35:1 aspect ratio seems to be most directors' favored format.

Yes, this is matted-aperature shooting, as mentioned above, and it's still the method used for all but 2.35:1 aspect ratio widescreen films. It's sometimes called letterboxing. But I think tamaracks was asking about the term "letterboxing" as it applies to his TV and the black bars he gets with some movies.

It doesn't prevent it from being 2.35:1, certainly, but it's not anamorphic in that it was not filmed with an anamorphic lens. But this is a nit-picking difference.

I completely agree that some consistent terminology would be nice. Not gonna happen though. The terms are fairly precise if used correctly, but it's already become common to use them interchangeably and loosely, so I think we are doomed to this confusing state of affairs.

Ahem, "she". :P

I wasn't talking about letterboxing so much as I always heard the term anamorphic in reference to DVDs when concerning DVDs that can adapt to a widescreen TV vs those that can't. For example, some older DVDs I have are widescreen, in that they show the movie letterboxed, presumably to the intended aspect ratio. But when displayed on a widescreen TV, these DVDs will be pillarboxed and letterboxed. More modern DVDs that are termed widescreen will automatically fill the width of a widescreen TV. I thought anamorphic referred to the latter sort, but I could be wrong.
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post #1792 of 28857
7/14/08 at 5:05pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike25690 View Post

I'm not getting into hex codes, but I did just purchase 2 Harmony One remotes. (One for the sofa, one for the bar) They will replace an older Harmony 880, that had a charging cradle problem

I'm on my second 880 for that very reason (free replacement). I'm going for the Harmony One next as well. How do you like it?
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post #1793 of 28857
7/14/08 at 5:06pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrcorwin View Post

What you are saying...goes way over my head. I feel that I am fairly up to speed with video, but way behind on audio.

Which is why I do something that probably makes someone in your position cringe....I buy Sony receivers so that I can use the auto calibration feature and then tweak it to my liking. Without that to get me started it would be a huge headache for me.

For example, I will be buying an STR-DG520 to replace my STR-K700...because it includes more connections for optical & coaxial audio. Right now I only have one of each and I need at least two optical.

I know...probably not wise, but a fairly cheap mistake to make.

Don't feel bad. Audio is much more complex than video. Marketing also plays a stronger role in this area influencing peoples choices.
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post #1794 of 28857
7/14/08 at 5:09pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by umr View Post

Don't feel bad. Audio is much more complex than video. Marketing also plays a stronger role in this area influencing peoples choices.

It also helps that I am not nearly as picky about audio. As long as I can get balanced 5.1 and a sound I enjoy...I'm happy. I tend to focus on video much more.
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post #1795 of 28857
7/14/08 at 5:11pm
Thanks for the quick response. It appears as though the whole screen is lit up, I'm running in with the TV in Full mode.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hamsamish09 View Post

No problems running it for 150 straight and component is fine if the whole screen is filled.
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post #1796 of 28857
7/14/08 at 5:12pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by tamaracks View Post

For example, some older DVDs I have are widescreen, in that they show the movie letterboxed, presumably to the intended aspect ratio. But when displayed on a widescreen TV, these DVDs will be pillarboxed and letterboxed.

In my experience they are labeled Letterbox most of the time.

Quote:


More modern DVDs that are termed widescreen will automatically fill the width of a widescreen TV. I thought anamorphic referred to the latter sort, but I could be wrong.

It does as far as the box and places like IMDB are concerned.

The Ultimate Guide to Anamorphic Widescreen DVD for everyone!
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post #1797 of 28857
7/14/08 at 5:13pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrcorwin View Post

It also helps that I am not nearly as picky about audio. As long as I can get balanced 5.1 and a sound I enjoy...I'm happy. I tend to focus on video much more.

The problem is that very few people have the balance you are talking about. The automatic systems do not work and people do not have the tools do it themselves. Most people have equipment that is adequate for the level they are targeting, but their system performance is far short of what it could be.
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post #1798 of 28857
7/14/08 at 6:20pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gixxer1 View Post

Oh, one other question, will it hurt the display to let the Break-In DVD constantly for the whole 150hrs or should I shut it off and give the panel a rest in between sessions?

That is up to you. I let it run continuously without any issues. Just make sure you have your A/C on

Quote:


Also the DVD player I'm using is hooked up by component video and only goes up to 480P does it matter?

Thanks again

As long as the DVD player can send the panel a full screen image, it doesn't matter what player brand and/or resolution you choose to use.
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post #1799 of 28857
7/14/08 at 6:31pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by tamaracks View Post

Ahem, "she". :P

I wasn't talking about letterboxing so much as I always heard the term anamorphic in reference to DVDs when concerning DVDs that can adapt to a widescreen TV vs those that can't. For example, some older DVDs I have are widescreen, in that they show the movie letterboxed, presumably to the intended aspect ratio. But when displayed on a widescreen TV, these DVDs will be pillarboxed and letterboxed. More modern DVDs that are termed widescreen will automatically fill the width of a widescreen TV. I thought anamorphic referred to the latter sort, but I could be wrong.

So sorry, tamaracks, for the assumption. I'll remember next time. Sorry I misunderstood your question, but after all the discussion of these terms, I trust you found an answer in there somewhere.
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post #1800 of 28857
7/14/08 at 6:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrcorwin View Post

I'm on my second 880 for that very reason (free replacement). I'm going for the Harmony One next as well. How do you like it?

How long do you think it will be before we can use an iPhone as our universal remote (oh, and talk on the phone, serve up music and video files, too)?
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