The Official Pioneer 9G Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 66

I've had my 151FD for about a week now. I only just started using the break-in DVD last night but had just been watching cautiously up until then, so I only have about 20 hours on the set so far. But I plan on running the break-in each day while I'm at work.

On the picture, so far no problems. I haven't seen any dead or fixed pixels, but then again I haven't really been looking all that hard, probably because I'm afraid I'll find one. The buzzing on the screen is very noticeable, unfortunately. I suspect it has something to do with placement. When I first turned it on on the floor (I had no one to help me put it up on the table for the first day), I barely noticed any buzzing at all and only if I stuck my head around to the back.

Once it was up on the temporary table (it'll be wall-mounted eventually), I could easily hear a nasty buzz that reverberated throughout the room probably due to the sound reflected off the wall behind it. Once it's up on the wall, I'm not sure how or if that will change. Putting power savings on mode 2 really diminishes the buzz to almost nothing except for a white screen, though, so I'm leaving it on that mode from now on. I'm not sure how that affects the break-in portion and how I should adjust my settings accordingly, but I don't really want to turn it off due to the buzz.

Dont think twice about it Bandito exchange that set. After exhausting every option out there from the pixar movies to massaging it to the JPScreen Fix nothing worked and the fact that I could see it from 12ft away didnt help so 2 days ago I finally went back and exchanged it. Boy Im I glad I did! My new 111 (knock on wood) is perfect so far I did and have been letting the break in DVD run on it for almost 48 hrs now with no pixel issues but I'd be lying if I wasnt totally paranoid about suddenly seeing a stuck/dead pixel appear.

Part of me like yourself doesnt want to take a chance with the Break in video again and instead giving the pixels a better workout as you put it by letting Disneys Cars play on a loop. Either way I feel like ultimately the chances of getting a pixel perfect set are better than not with these Pioneers and its really probably only a few of us that will have defective pixel issues which is to bad on such a high end panel. Either way Im just glad like yourself I bought it from a BB were I have 30 days to return/exchange which they did for me without any problem Truly worth spending the extra money at a place that offers a good return policy so that you dont have to live with a problem such as a defective pixel which you would probably have to fight Pioneer to take care of.

Me three.

Does the 9g elite Kuro come out of box attached to the stand or must it be assembled?

I know that my Elite, when looking at it while it's off from an angle has a purple-ish tint to the screen. I figured that was the filter on the outside of the screen. I didn't know that the non-elites didn't have that same filter. Interesting. I wonder what that means.

I also wanted to note, when I intially got my replacement 151, the blacks were not only brighter, but the blotchiness was quite a bit more noticeable than it is now. Now, when I look at a completely blank screen, the blacks are very dark, not quite disappearing, but closer than any other set I've seen and the blotchiness isn't really noticeable anymore. That's about 150+ hours of break-in and hours periodically during the break-in of normal viewing. I probably have 175-200 hours on my set now.

The purple-ish tint has no affect on the image when the TV is on and isn't actually noticeable when right in front of it, even with the TV turned off.

Both, just like the non-elites.

The 50" sets come with stand attached. The 60" sets require stand assembly.

Is anyone using the standard Ideal-Lume with their 151? If so, is one enough or do multiple need to be used to achieve the desired affect? Thanks in advance.

Sorry to bring up an OT subject from so long ago -- Yesterday!

Here's how I've described it, and it seems to work for experts and "laymen" alike:

Anamorphic means that the image fills the frame on the recorded medium (film or video disc), even though it may not be the same shape.
The image is then adjusted back to the correct shape on playback (projection lens for film, digital process for video disc).

For those people struggling because the Kuros won't do a linear zoom when fed 1080 -- check if your DVD player can do the correct zoom. It knows your TV is 16:9 and may have a mode to handle older letterboxed content.
I sure hope they fix that on the 10g models. HD broadcasters are still liable to do pillarboxed, letterboxed SD movies with borders all around. Can't fix that now and should be able to.

- LoopinFool

Fine with me

My Pro-151 looks off when idle.

you should get 2 for sure. I use the "panel lights" from cinemaquest.

Ok, I was going to ask about that. I will be getting the 6020 and I wanted to make sure that two was adequate. Two questions:

Do you have them attached to the back of the set or on the wall?

Are you using "X10 RF remote on/off switch for remote control of this model"?

Thanks

Forgive me if this is slightly OT, but I need some advice here. I pre-ordered a 151 from a local vendor in the latter part of May. This required a 50% deposit. Now that they've been shipping for a while, I've been asking when is my TV coming. They STILL can't tell me for sure. They say they should know this week. Now, Magnolia has the TV in stock and can give me a much better price than the local vendor. When I told the vendor this, the owner said that I'm bound by contract to buy the TV and am not entitled to a refund of my deposit. Furthermore, they will not do any sort of price-matching. I've been given nothing in writing to this effect. All I have is a basic receipt. This doesn't seem to be in line with basic consumer rights, but I could be wrong. Anyone had an experience like this?

If there is no written agreement of any kind. You should be able to pursue with a complaint to get your refund. Sounds like this small time dealer is just being a pain and hope you'll stick with them for more moola.

Only time I have heard of this and courts ruled in favor of the company was car deposits and ONLY if they had to source a car out and bring it to the dealer. They charged you the 500 deposit for locating the car and bringing it in.

I would call your CC company and get the TV at the other location. If thats the service they provide most likely not very good after the sale either. I have not heard of a place not giving a deposit back when they cant even get the model.

I cant see how they can keep your deposit anyway. You could buy the TV and return it for a refund unless of course they have no return policy either

You might not believe this but I decided to remove my 151 from my 1500va ups (not needed anyway ) and plug it into my Monster Cable conditioner (stage 4). I immediately noticed a significant improvement in the picture! Crisper,brighter,cleaner! This is not my imagination. The image now has more of the 3d look that my Sony Qualia has (still not quite there). I did not expect this improvement at all. I have been using the conditioner mainly for its ability to turn components on and off(bias lighting,etc). Anyway, I thought I would share this with you. A pleasant,unexpected surprise.

Interesting findings, hifi! I take those type of things for granted simply because I immediately plug all my components into a power conditioner, so I never really get a chance to see the difference.

I wasn't using it because I also have a Richard Gray 400s line conditioner. (I swear by it). I didn't want to overdo it using both. Now that I think about it, I once read an article whereas they used both units together with very positive results. I didn't own the Monster unit at the time.

Agreed I am using a Panamax 5400-pm and always just plug into it. I wonder if these are some of the differences that are being seen

They are mounted on the back of the tv. I used hooks that one would use for pegboards for tools in your garage (they fit nicely into the perforated metal on the back of the tv without stressing anything) and the lights are just lying in the hooks ..2 hooks toward top of tv and 2 toward bottom.(Lights are running horizontally of course). I turn the lights on/off using the switched outlets of my power conditioner.

Wow. I'd like to see more data on the 150 vs the 151. There's not much point in going to the 151 from a 150 if people aren't seeing a significant difference.

If the difference between the 150 and the 151 is anything like the difference I noticed between the 5080 and the 6020, then the 9G is definitly the way to go.
I would like to hear from some other owners who did a MLL reading on thier 9G elite sandwiches.

OK, looks like I missed this...not good.

I was seriously planning on a 151 to replace my 150 and now I'm not so sure. I wonder what's gone wrong here?

I don't think anything's wrong. It's just an initial reading of a brand new set. Like I said, with my replacement, the blacks have settled down and are definitely noticeably deeper now than when the unit first arrived.

This is actually a reassurance for me that the break-in period (not necessarily the break-in DVD) is real. The difference between the set at 'hour-one' compared to 'hour-one hundred fifty plus' definitely was noticeable.

The difference between intial use and after a couple weeks was less noticeable with my original 151. It could vary between set to set and what I've read before about sets needing some time before actually calibrating and coming into specs seems to be a bit more accurate.

KenRoss, I wouldn't worry too much. I believe in a week D-Nice will confirm what I am saying.

Oh, I guess I figured they would be vertical on the back of the panel.

I wouldn't mind seeing a picture of them in action with your setup. Don't worry about it if that would be a hassle.

Thanks Aetherhole, let's hope so. You always expect people to come up with some anomolies with a newly released model, but black levels were not the area I was expecting to see these anomolies.

You would think by simply turning down the brightness you'd get the black levels you'd get with an 'aged' set adjusted to a somewhat higher brightness level, but it doesn't seem to be the case. Hard to see why idle luminance would change with age.

This is my first post on the AVS forum and I just wanted to share my experiences buying a new 151fd to replace my 6 year old Samsung 42" projection (not dlp). I live in London Ontario Canada and was having a devil of a time finding dealers close to London that would offer better pricing than slightly off the MSRP. I found a couple of places in Toronto but I didn't like the thought of dealing with a store so far away and having to deal with shipping costs, freight insurance and having the potential to pay more in case I needed to return the TV if there were issues. Using the Pioneer website I was able to find a local Elite dealer that I had never heard of before. It turns out they are not a retail store but specialize in high end home theatre installs and customization. I simply called them up, made an appointment to see them, ordered the TV I wanted and had it delivery to my house 4 days later. They made the buying process extremely easy. Today my TV was delivered, not a scratch on the box. 3 guys came to my home to make sure it was carried in safely as well as doing a basic setup for me. I received a price, that perhaps I could have beat calling more stores, but the price I did receive made buying the TV from them easy. If anyone in London or the surrounding area are looking for an Elite dealer who flies under the radar, check out "MULTI MEDIA SYSTEMS" in london. www. 1smarthouse.ca/index.htm
Now onto the TV report. I couldn't wait to to check out the TV using SD and HD content (no blu ray player yet) and I must say WOW. It was 20x better looking than my old TV. I started to run the break in DVD paying special attention to the white slides and other bright colours and could not hear any noise/hum from the TV other than putting my head behind the TV. On the less bright colour slides....it was whisper quiet. After checking out the colour gambit, I have zero burned out pixals, no stuck pixels but I do suffer from the dirty screen door affect looking at sold break in images. However, watching SD/HD content I can't see this affect at all. Hopefully the break in process will help with the effect but if not, it won't bother me watching the TV.

All in all, the whole experience has been wonderful. Now I wish Pioneer would hurry up for their new blu ray players and SC-05 =)

How do you have these plugged into your power conditioner? I'm planning on buying a couple, but not happy about having to walk over to turn them on. I have a powerbridge. TV and bias lights will be plugged into the two plugs in the outlet. Belkin PF60 surege protector will be plugged in on the other side. I assume because bias light is in a different plug than TV, that means it's not covered. Am I right?

Anyone have a "Break in DVD" that they are done with that is willing to part with it? Expecting my 151 soon and want to ready to break her in. I will pay shipping.