The Official Pioneer 9G Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 791

This is normal behaviour with my 111FD if I try to switch inputs without allowing the panel enough "start up" time. I don't use the tuners in mine, but see it when switching HDMI inputs.

I haven't played around with it to isolate the command or sequence that initiates this cycle, but I know it's not universal. And it doesn't matter whether you use the tuners....the point is that something in the macro seems to trigger a sequence that checks tuner status, or something along that line.

I don't have an answer to your question but will share the results that we get with our 151:

We don't get the "Start Up" message when we use our Harmony One to turn on the 151 and Denon 4308 receiver when using the 151's internal tuner. However, We rarely use the 151's internal TV tuner, but rather, the TiVo Series 3 tuner for watching TV broadcasts.

The only time that we get this "Start Up" message to appear is when the Denon receiver is already turned on and we turn on the TV with either the Harmony One "Devices" soft key or the Pioneer's own dedicated remote. It also only occurs with the TV's internal tuner but not with the TiVo's tuner and is not remote specific with the Harmony One.

Hitting the "Watch TV" button on the Harmony One does the following:

Motorola Digital Set Top Box is ON
Pioneer TV is ON
Onkyo AV receiver is ON
Motorola Digital Set Top Box is set to "Tuner"
Pioneer TV is set to "Input 4"
Onkyo AV Receiver is set to "CBL/SAT"


So it must have something to do with the Harmony One hitting Input 4 on my 151, this makes sense, no?

I suppose I could flip on the 151 with the factory remote and quickly hitting input 4 to be sure.......let me check that now..............
Yep , that was it.
You guys were a lot closer then the guys in the H1 thread.

Thanks a lot guys!!

Now I want to know what other "set tos" there are on my Comcast cable box besides the tuner?

If this really bothers you, you should give Harmony Tech Support a call. They should be able to straighten this problem out for you.

I don't think it has anything to do with Harmony, other than it happens to be a Harmony remote that's sending the commands. It's strictly a function of the Kuro and how it's responding to a given command or command sequence, regardless what remote is used.

Indeed you might be right about this, but the bottom line is that it can't hurt for James to check with Harmony support if it bothers him unless you or anyone else here has a definitive answer to his problem.

We had a previous issue with our 151 and the Harmony One which Harmony Tech support was able to rectify after much frustration in trying to resolve the problem ourselves. They discovered the problem and rectified it while I was still on the phone with them. One of the things that they did was to lengthen, modify, and tweak the time sequences between commands to the Kuro and our other components. It sure can't hurt, can it?

This behavior happens when you are changing the input from where it last was set as part of the startup sequence. For instance, on my setup the Comcast cable box is on input 4 and by Oppo Blu-Ray player is on 5. If I was watching a Blu-Ray the last time the set was on, then the set will be on input 5. If you pick Watch Cable on your Harmony One, the set has to switch inputs. The Pioneer won't switch inputs until it has fully booted up. That's why you get the message. If you last had it on cable and selected Watch Blu-Ray, the same thing would happen. If you choose to do the same thing you last did then there is no message because no input switching is involved. It even happens if you use the set's own remote and try to change inputs when you first turn the TV on.

That is exactly why it happens. I find it takes in the range of 5-6 seconds for the panel to become "ready".

On my 151 it's more like 15 seconds.

???I figured it out, is it not clear in my post above??

Read post #23730 , it is the Harmony's fault as it hits "input 4" every time it turns on the 151, I am going to try to get the H1 to not hit the input button as input 4 is the only input I use on my 151 given I have a receiver.

Mine, as well.

No, it's not the Harmony's "fault," since it's only sending the commands that it's been programmed to send. Like most owners with a programmable remote, you're using a power-up macro that sends a whole series of commands to your components. (I use these macros in my non-Harmony remotes, too.) Your Kuro is just responding to a command or timing sequence in your macro, that's all. This would happen with any remote sending that same macro. This has been my point all along- that it's just a matter of finding the error in your macro and correcting it.

It sounds like you have....the macro includes an unnecessary or incorrectly-timed input command. As I'm sure you've already discovered, it's very easy to go in and edit the macro to remove that command.

I have the 111FD, so it appears to be different from the 151.

Good to hear you got it figured out.


Great explanation!

Well, I was on pins and needles waiting for this. Would it really be worth it as an upgrade from the 101FD? Would 10" matter?

It is just unbelievable. Sitting at 9 feet it is just like a true movie theater experience. I broke it in with the Godfather blu-ray because I wanted an epic classic to start with. Never have I seen such blacks and detail in the deep shadows, along with clean whites and bright colors where the cinematography showed them. Razor sharpness, no loss of detail when the people moved (ie blurry beards).

The 101 outshone its modern competitors at the BB Magnolia where I first got Kuro fever. Been looking for six weeks for a 141 and lucked out with an authorized dealer in Alabama (not BB, they have none, and this set was his last one). Manufacture date April 2009!!

This set is everything that has been said in this and other threads, and even much more.

Am I a fanboy? Only because I consider myself a pretty demanding videophile and I really do see the difference between this and other sets and it is not subtle or insubstantial. The raving I did about the 101FD goes twice for the 141!

I am really psyched to get it calibrated for B&W performance, which D-Nice does, so I can get Citizen Kane and Touch of Evil going!

One question. Much of my watching is of classic flicks that are not yet on Blu-Ray. Is the Oppo 83 the best upconverting player for DVDs?

I also want to thank all participants on this forum for everything that I have learned when searching for these sets.

Guy

PS It is running 24/7 so D-Nice can calibrate it!! D-Nice can you contact me about your upcoming Florida trip?

I think so, as do almost all the owners who post. If you check the first post in the owner's thread you can find links to professional reviews.

Official OPPO BDP-83 Owner's Thread [technical talk only]

I really think so. The Oppo DV-983H, which is discontinued, also does a stunning job upscaling DVDs.

As a fellow classic films buff (about half of what I watch is in black and white and 4:3), the Oppo BDP-83 is the best I've seen for upscaling players. It beat out my previous Reon-based player by quite a bit.

That's because it has a tuner. With the 101FD and 141FD, you can change inputs pretty much as soon as you turn the TV on.

My 111 has displayed that message ever since I brought it home. I always assumed it was a normal function...

So I've been enjoying my "new" open box 111fd for a few weeks now and the information in this thread has been very helpful!

I do have a couple of issues that I couldn't find answers to;
I have a custom built htpc attached with hdmi and it won't fill the screen. Tried switching to PC mode on the Pio, different resolutions on the PC, and many other things in between (even reading the manual ). Nothing seems to work. Suggestions?

The tv didn't come with a remote so I got a harmony 650. Is there a way to get into the service menu to check hours using the harmony?

Thanks again,
Chunkydark

No, there isn't.

Just got my 101-FD delivered and wall mounted. Looks awesome and since I'm coming from a 40" set at the same view distance, 50" looks huge.

Best Buy was trying to sell me on a Panamax M5300-PM, saying that any time electronics in my home turned on/off, it would prematurely age the phosphors and that this would make my upcoming calibration only last a year.

Anyways, I have my calibration scheduled but won't be around enough to get 100+ hours just from normal watching. I'm good to just leave the burn in DVD on at night using the settings in this thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1053444), and then do normal watching with default PURE settings, right? The settings are done per input, correct? So if I setup the break in settings on Input 4, Input 5's settings won't be touched?

I'm rather nervous as this is my first plasma and first calibration.

Best Buy is just trying to crank up their profit margins. Ignore the BS. There is no way turning on and off stuff could contribute to aging your phosphors. What are they smoking at BB?

The Panamax stuff is just a ridiculously priced surge protector. A basic strip that costs $60 is just as good.

If you want "real" protection you should get a battery back-up that can kick in and not only protect against surges, but also against brownouts, blackouts, power failures, and transient spikes and dips that happen when other appliances in your home kick in (ie A/C), etc. These can be just as damaging and are far more common than a lightning-caused power surge. That's we all have battery back-ups on our high-end computers! At my office, for example, my back-up routinely clicks on for a few seconds, even when the electricity seems to be on in the building. I know it is protecting against a brownout or something similar.

Most AV components nowadays are or contain mini computers and your screen is no exception. A "real" back-up will be the same price as that high-end panamax stuff and MUCH more effective. Get the ones that give pure sine-wave output from the battery, and make sure it can handle the wattage of your TV, AV system, and whatever else you have plugged in to it for enough time to do an orderly shutdown if there is a complete outage (30 seconds to a minute should be enough time).

I don't think the power issues harm the phosphors. That sounds like BS. What they can harm are the electronics that control the TV and the power supply.

With a discontinued model screen, the best protection makes a lot of sense. Get a super-duper APS or equal.

Yes, the settings are input dependent, but it's not necessary to use those special settings when running the break-in images (not burn-in, BTW....that would be a bad thing!). They are part of a procedure for a certain type of "self-calibration," and that procedure doesn't apply when you are getting a professional calibration done.

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