The Official Pioneer 9G Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 927

I have OTA input , BLU RAY Player and PS3 hooked up via AVR and HDMI .No cable or satilite , I have the Coax cable from a OTA antena hooked to the back of the 151FD , no tv speakers , optical cable from the back of the 151FD to my AVR so I get sound thru external speakers , plays 5.1 or stereo depending on broadcast signal , so the 151 will pass thru the audio signal to the optical output , not sure it would be any difference whether it is cable or satellite as long as you hooked into the coax connector on the back of the 151 . I do not know if the HDMI input will pass audio or not , HTH

Mark

So I got my hands on a KRP 500M display model for $1000 (local store in Bahrain clearing out the Kuro plasmas since everybody is after 3D sets these days lol). Anyway, it's supposed to be around 3 weeks old only according to the store sales and it's in a pretty much new condition physically from what I've inspected (no scratches on screen/frame..etc or IR/BI).

Just out of curiosity, Is there any way to check the hours on the set quickly using the supplied remote? I've got controlcal, I've been able to turn on/off the set via my laptop but couldn't access the service menu, any help about how to do that would be great.

Even though I'm a Kuro 9G owner since 2008, I haven't followed the monitor series much, other than lacking speakers which I have no need for, what are the differences compared to the 9G elite models? Also, what do you guys think about the deal?

Finally, any monitor series specific issues I should look out for? Because I'm planning to move my 5020FD to the living room and use the 500M for my main movie/gaming room now.

Wow, score. That's a bargain for the best Plasma ever made, I'd say. The monitors (500M included) have better black levels than the Elites. Hopefully, you won't see any red! There is a Harmony remote trick you can use to check the hours, but you need a specific model and then you need to log into the user account of the fellow here who taught his Harmony the function from a service remote (don't ask me how he got it, I can't recall; they're nearly impossible to find). ControlCal should give you all you the control you need, however, but it's not something I've used.

I think you got a good deal for the 500m. Nice find. The kuros are still the best displays for reference 2d PQ performance. Everytime i turn on my 151 i shake my head in awe.

You can read the differences between all 9g kuros here-

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1126267/pioneer-9g-kuro-comparison-chart-xx20-500-600m-111-151-101-141-500-600a-lx-xx90#post_15960856

To check hours you can buy an H1 and download the code from the site that somebody here setup. But since you already have CC, just follow these instructions-

http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=120

EDIT- Actually you have a 500m, sorry. Use this-

http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=301
Edited by saprano - 10/8/12 at 9:38am

1) No.
2) It's likely all your 500M questions are answered in the KRP FAQ.

Thanks for replying guys, the LAN method was very easy to check the hours, the set has around 300 hours so I guess it was used for a month or so, which isn't bad because I feared of being screwed and seeing numbers in the thousands!

A couple of questions:

1- AFAIK KRP 500M doesn't come with a table top stand, the store gave me a brand new one free of charge, but I think it's not the official stand for the KRP 500M (it's a Pioneer Kuro stand though). As you guys know, you attach the stand to the Kuro with 4 screws, 2 upper and 2 lower, the 2 upper screws are longer than what the KRP needs so a big portion of it is sticking out after being tightened, is that safe or not?

From what I've checked, since the KRP models are thinner, the upper screws should be 23MM instead of the regular 40MM which I'm pretty sure is being used now.

2- Would it be completely useless to run the break-in images now that the set has already been ran for 300 hours to use D-Nice's reference settings as a starting point?


I've got a few more stuff that are confusing me which I'm sure are related to the monitor series, like the picture settings keeps changing depending on the video source I'm using even though it's on the same HDMI input, but I'll try to look up answers for those in the suggested KRP FAQs and see if it'll answer everything I need to know.

^^^^^^
The monitors store settings for each input resolution/frequency, so you need to make adjustments with each type of signal present. You can use the integrator menu to set global values once you have a rough calibration, that way all the signals will start with the same settings. Entering the integrator menu causes all settings to reset.
Regards, mike.

Probably not.

However the mounting hardware is equivalent for the various 50" panels. If your screws are too long they're the wrong ones.

All the of the relevant details can be found in the FAQ.

So I may be moving to Europe soon and I do not wish to leave my Kuro behind in the US as I still don't think there is a worthy replacement available.

What options do I have? I assume the power supply DOES NOT support 240v so I would need a step down converter of some type (which I will obtain for my receiver as well). Would there be any problems doing this?

What about transportation? How exactly would I go about shipping a plasma to another country without it being destroyed?

Any thoughts on this matter would be much appreciated as I really don't wish to sell it.

Having moved a Kuro across the U.S., I can tell you from experience that the only way to ship the set would be to crate it in a purpose-built crate. There are companies that specialize in this sort of work but it isn't cheap. A proper crate will cost several hundred dollars. You will also need to work with a company familiar with international shipping of delicate items and electronics. My guess is it will cost you maybe a thousand bucks to properly crate and ship the set overseas.

Thanks for the info AV_Mike, glad there's an option to set global values!
I live in Bahrain (230v voltage is the normal here) and my imported 5020FD worked directly without the need of a step down voltage converter, it has a universal power supply. I of course didn't just do this to check lol, the seller who I bought from told me that it'll work without the need of a voltage converter based on his customers experience. I'd imagine your Kuro would have a universal power supply as well, but please don't take my word for it and do some more digging before taking any risks.
Are you saying that the screw length should be the same for all 50" models? Check page #13 in the English section of this stand's manual (it's the official KRP 500M stand AFAIK), it mentions different upper screw sizes depending on the model.

http://docs.pioneer.eu/Manuals/KRP_TS02_AZR1277_manual/

Also, is there any way to find out whether my 500M is European or not, the 9G comparison thread didn't mention the Euro 500M specs (unless I missed it).

Huh, I will definitely look into this.

I've found a LOT of products with universal power supplies don't actually LIST this fact on US labels. My Sony HMZ-T1s, for instance, are universal but listed only as 110v. Everything Sony is like this.

Unfortunately, my Marantz 5006 is 110v only...but I've heard people successfully importing them for use with a step down transformer so I should be fine there.

If it really IS universal that would be amazing!

Yeah I hate it when manufacturers do this, my fat PS3 has a universal power supply even though the label clearly says "110v only" lol, my heart was pounding when I wanted to try turning it on directly when there wasn't enough info on the internet to confirm whether my revision had a universal power supply or not , I just really really dislike using power transformers for some weird reason!

Wow, I can't believe this thread is still this active! I've had my 151FD since February 2009. I am impressed by the PQ every time I turn it on to this day. I am however looking for something larger than 60". I honestly haven't been impressed by the black levels of the 8000 samsung and VT series panny plasmas. Overall their colors when calibrated look damn good, but the black levels just aren't there. Am I being too harsh in my judgement? I still can't believe how this set still bests brand new sets to this day!

65vt50 without hesitation.

Sony 4k set around 5k or less

Since this is typically a North American forum I usually exclude the European models. In this case I meant the 101/500/111/5020.

In any case a TS02 will come with the the accessories noted in the manual which includes all required bolts.

If you want a bigger set, go straight to 70"+. 65" is that big of a jump IMO. Honestly, for me to upgrade my 151 the set has to be 80" and up AND have equal or better performance than the kuros. 4K wouldn't hurt either.

I would just keep the kuro. It's as good as it gets. You're not missing anything.

...and frame made of gold?

I want at least 70" but they are all led based at that size which I don't want. I have no problems waiting a few more years.

Guys, if you start thinking of getting a bigger tv than 70" maybe it's time to think about an HD projector ?

Wish it was that easy, a projector (current tech at least) can't replace a normal TV's job:

- Light control is a total pain
- Turning the display on/off often isn't reliable with projector lamps and decrease their life span AFAIK
- Latency is bad with most projectors, gaming is a huge part of a display's job these days, it's not just about movies anymore.

I also don't think one is being unreasonable for wanting a 70"+ TV with Kuro's PQ, I understand Kuro's tech was very expensive to create to the point Pioneer just decided to get out of the plasma business, but this tech has been released in 2008, with the way technology advances these days, it's unacceptable to me that no one has been able to match a 4 year old tech, most people just seem to care about gimmicks these days so that's what companies focus on marketing.

Well guys, I think it's time to release into the wild the information for my dummy Harmony account with the Factory code to check your hours:

1) Go to myharmony.com
2) Click "Sign in to my account"
3) Email address: Factorycode151@gmail.com
4) Password: pioneer151

If it says "Welcome J", you're in the right place.

5) Connect Harmony 300 and click "Sync"
6) Log out

You should now have basic TV controls plus the "Factory" code mapped to your "Info" button. Using it is very simple.

7) Power up TV
8) Press Info button on the 300 from about 3 feet away from directly in front of the IR receiver on the TV.
9) If the first service menu comes up, use the arrow down key of the FOUR directional arrows (below the two UP and DOWN arrows) to scroll through the pages until you get to the Hours screen.
10) Press Info again to exit.

Please let me know if it doesn't work for you. By using this code you are agreeing not to hold me responsible if you mess up your TV. If you don't have Harmony software installed it might ask you to install it first, but it will take you step-by-step if that's the case.

Thanks, and good luck!

dumb question, but will this work with other models other than the 300? I have a 900 that I use for my system.

After getting on 300, I was able to point-shoot to my still-working Harmony 880.

I pointed a 300 at my 676 to get the code into my own profile, but I have seen others post that they have used the dummy account successfully with other remotes. You have to remember though that if you use your remote to control devices other than a 151, this dummy account won't put those devices or any activities into your remote. That's why it's better to use a second cheap remote (like the 300) to get the Factory code. Then you can use it to teach the code to any other Harmony remote.
Edited by dcpmark - 10/12/12 at 9:30pm

Do you just need to teach your remote the one code? (what is mapped to "info" on the 300 it seems). I'd love to be able to use my One to access the service menu on my 500M but I really hate to purchase another remote..maybe I need to find one to temporarily use to teach my One....

Yes, just the one code. Put the 151 codes into a second remote, then connect your One to your computer, sign on to your own Harmony account, then follow the instuctions for teaching your One the one code from the second remote. I put my Factory code deep in my onscreen menus so I don't accidentally go into the service menu.

Quick question guys. Feel kinda dumb asking this YEARS later after purchase. Are the fans in the 111 and 151 supposed to be continuously running or just when the TV senses it's getting a bit hot. I was looking at the back of my 151 today and just now noticed the fans at the top. I also notice they weren't moving. Could it be the set hasn't got hot enough yet to need them or is something amiss?

My fans never turn on. Or anybody else's from reading the kuro threads.

You just realised the TV had fans?