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The Official Pioneer 9G Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 929

post #27841 of 30263
Quote:
Originally Posted by craigyboy View Post

well with energy save 2 on you are making the picture dim, resulting in a not correct image, so your calibration would not be right, put it back in energy save 1
Wouldn't calibrating the contrast, brightness and gamma fix any dimness mode 2 causes (which to be honest I can barely even notice)?
post #27842 of 30263
Quote:
Originally Posted by craigyboy View Post

well with energy save 2 on you are making the picture dim, resulting in a not correct image, so your calibration would not be right, put it back in energy save 1

No, my Kuro has not been calibrated. I might have it done in the future. After I get my Kuro calibrated and the energy save mode is turned off, what would happen if I turn energy save 2 back on? Will I lose all the settings that were calibrated if I turn energy save mode off again and need to have the calibrator come back or does the Kuro remember all the settings?
post #27843 of 30263
Settings are saved, energy save modes just make temporary adjustments (until disabled).
post #27844 of 30263
Questions regarding the Kuro's Film Mode and Screen Size settings...

For Film Mode, is Advance only for 1080p content shot on film? For everything else shot on digital camera and 480i, 720p, 1080i just turn Film Mode off? I would assume Advance is useless for watching tv content since there is no HD programming in 1080p due to lack of bandwidth.

For Screen Size, I usually just set it to 'Auto' when watching tv or any dvd or bluray shot on digital camera like sports. Or should I use Dot-by-dot ? I read on CNET or Home Theater Mag that Dot-by-dot does not like when the Kuro's settings are activated for Auto Size and Side Mask.
post #27845 of 30263
Dot by dot gives you the best picture when you have a 1080 source and also eliminates any overscan since you are not doing any picture rescaling. You cannot select dot by dot when the source material is not 1080.
post #27846 of 30263
Quote:
Originally Posted by JazzGuyy View Post

Dot by dot gives you the best picture when you have a 1080 source and also eliminates any overscan since you are not doing any picture rescaling. You cannot select dot by dot when the source material is not 1080.

Is Dot-by-dot just for 1080p or is it also for 1080i ?

With regards to my other question above, is Film Mode-Advance just for 1080p film material?
post #27847 of 30263
Quote:
Originally Posted by oppopioneer View Post

Is Dot-by-dot just for 1080p or is it also for 1080i ?
With regards to my other question above, is Film Mode-Advance just for 1080p film material?
dot by dot for blu ray and full for normal tv content
post #27848 of 30263
Quote:
Originally Posted by craigyboy View Post

dot by dot for blu ray and full for normal tv content

Thanks for the tips. I usually set my Screen Size to 'Auto'. I can't tell the difference in PQ between Auto and Full. Any differences between the two and which is prefered and why?
post #27849 of 30263
Quote:
Originally Posted by JazzGuyy View Post

Dot by dot gives you the best picture when you have a 1080 source and also eliminates any overscan since you are not doing any picture rescaling. You cannot select dot by dot when the source material is not 1080.

So thats why on some games it automatically goes to full and i can't choose dot by dot. I was wondering why that happens. Mass Effect 2 and 3 on PS3 does this.
post #27850 of 30263
Hey everyone,

I have a 141FD I absolutely move. I'm moving to the UK for 2 years and my company will move all my stuff back and forth, but I'm very confused about what to do with my Kuro.

Should I take it with me? Will it work there with just a transformer (since the power frequencies are different)? Should I put it into storage for 2 years?

I'd appreciate any input from folks who've been through this before.

Thanks!
post #27851 of 30263
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjanon View Post

Hey everyone,
I have a 141FD I absolutely move. I'm moving to the UK for 2 years and my company will move all my stuff back and forth, but I'm very confused about what to do with my Kuro.
Should I take it with me? Will it work there with just a transformer (since the power frequencies are different)? Should I put it into storage for 2 years?
I'd appreciate any input from folks who've been through this before.
Thanks!

Read the posts in this page

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1039269/the-official-pioneer-9g-elite-kuro-owners-discussion-thread/27780

As I said there, please don't take my word for it since my model is different than yours, maybe contacting Pioneer techs will help to verify your model has a universal PSU or not.
post #27852 of 30263
Quote:
Originally Posted by metallicaband View Post

Read the posts in this page
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1039269/the-official-pioneer-9g-elite-kuro-owners-discussion-thread/27780
As I said there, please don't take my word for it since my model is different than yours, maybe contacting Pioneer techs will help to verify your model has a universal PSU or not.

Thanks very much for that suggestion. I called my local service guy who in turn called Pioneer tech support. They confirmed that the TV's power supply is universal and so I'm all set smile.gif. Unfortunately that's not true for my SC-27, so that's going to have to go into storage.
post #27853 of 30263
Sorry to be nosy. But what kind of job do you do to have move to a different location, and that long?
post #27854 of 30263
Happy Thanksgiving to all....

Once again I am amazed at how great the Macy's Parade looks on my Kuro
post #27855 of 30263
Quote:
Originally Posted by dcpmark View Post

Well guys, I think it's time to release into the wild the information for my dummy Harmony account with the Factory code to check your hours:
1) Go to myharmony.com
2) Click "Sign in to my account"
3) Email address: Factorycode151@gmail.com
4) Password: pioneer151
If it says "Welcome J", you're in the right place.
5) Connect Harmony 300 and click "Sync"
6) Log out
You should now have basic TV controls plus the "Factory" code mapped to your "Info" button. Using it is very simple.
7) Power up TV
8) Press Info button on the 300 from about 3 feet away from directly in front of the IR receiver on the TV.
9) If the first service menu comes up, use the arrow down key of the FOUR directional arrows (below the two UP and DOWN arrows) to scroll through the pages until you get to the Hours screen.
10) Press Info again to exit.
Please let me know if it doesn't work for you. By using this code you are agreeing not to hold me responsible if you mess up your TV. If you don't have Harmony software installed it might ask you to install it first, but it will take you step-by-step if that's the case.
Thanks, and good luck!

Bumped for a member who asked, to see.
post #27856 of 30263
Questions regarding 'Source Direct' from the Pio 23FD bd player and the processing of my Kuro 151 for bluray 1080p/24 material.

I want my Kuro to do the processing in it's Film Mode to give a cinematic PQ. But I read that 'Source Direct' isn't what it claims to be. For example this quote is from a member at AVForum below:
Quote:
Oppo uses confusing "marketing speak" to describe source direct -

Oppo claim: "The original audio/video content on the discs is sent out with no additional processing or alteration."

This is not accurate for video because the player is required to alter the content i.e. what is output from the player is in a different video format to native Blu-ray content. There's no "bitstream" option for video.

The player HDMI settings will determine key aspects of output such as bitstream v LPCM audio, colour space, Deep Colour etc irrespective of Source Direct mode being selected. It's possible to set Source Direct as the output resolution and still have the player convert/unsample to RGB colour space, interpolate to 12 bit per pixel HDMI Deep Colour and internally decode lossless HD codecs to LPCM.


I would assume Source Direct on the Pio is the same as Source Direct on the Oppo or any other bd player that has that option. If I set my Pio 23FD to 'Source Direct' and I also have the bd player set to HDMI High Speed, 36 bit Deep Color, Video Adjust-Memory 1.......is it still 'Source Direct' then and is the bd player sending the original content off the disc straight through to the Kuro to process and is the Kuro detecting a true 'Source Direct' for it's Film Mode-Advance to convert to 1080p/72? Or should I turn off the bd player's Deep Color Support, HDMI High Speed and set the bd player to Video Adjust - PDF to sync up more purely with the Kuro?

For DVD content, which do you think produces the best PQ for where the bd player output should be set at?
Edited by oppopioneer - 11/25/12 at 8:04pm
post #27857 of 30263
Quote:
Originally Posted by saprano View Post

Bumped for a member who asked, to see.

Unfortunately, I just checked the info, and someone has changed the password on dummy Harmony account. I'll see if I can get it up and running again soon.
post #27858 of 30263
Quote:
Originally Posted by dcpmark View Post

Unfortunately, I just checked the info, and someone has changed the password on dummy Harmony account. I'll see if I can get it up and running again soon.

Are you freaking serious? This is why stuff is kept secret and not shared for everyone.

If you get it working again do NOT post the info here. Only give it to people who you can trust. If you give me the info again nobody is getting it. Too bad. It's always 1 person that messes it up for everyone.

The person i showed your post to is here-

http://www.avsforum.com/u/7880838/bdestroyer8418

He's the last person that asked about it. I wonder if it was him? I'll PM him.
post #27859 of 30263
i have noticed that my kuro 101fd doesnt produce bezel blending black when displaying dark scenes (low contrast scenes)... is this normal? For instance, when watching a bright high contrast movie (like toy story, up) in a dark room environment, the letterbox bars are conpletely black and blend in with the bezel. However, when watching a low contrast dark movie or scene in the same darkened room conditions, the black bars dont blend with the bezel at all and seem to get lighter. This also occurs in scenes where the majority of the screen is black with very little content on it (such as a films final credits). The blacks near the white credits text is inky black while the black near the edges seems lighter and doesnt blend in with the bezel. I do not have the red tint issue but would like to know if its normal for the kuro's blacks to get lighter in low contrast scenes. I am using isf mode day and night using settings obtained from this website. The behavior also occurs with the kuros other picture modes.

I would greatly appreciate if someone could answer this or attemp to replicate the issue on their sets.
post #27860 of 30263
A good way to replicate this is by using the kuro's built in video pattern. On my set, when the white bar is on the left side of the screen, the blacks near the white bar are inky black while the black on the right side of the screen are not inky and dont blend in with the bezel. Its like the black gets lighter the further away it is from the white bar. Now as the bar makes its way to the left side of the screen and is at the middle of the screen, the blacks near the white bar are inky while the blacks near the left and right bezel are not inky and dont blend in with the bezel. As before, the black gets lighter the farther they are from the white bar. Once the bar reaches the right side of the screen, the blacks near the bar are inky while the blacks near the left bezel are not. Again, the black gets lighter the farther it is from the white bar.

I would greatly appreciate if someone could run the video pattern in a dark room and see if they can replicate the issue as I'd like to know if this is normal or not.
post #27861 of 30263
Yes, it's normal. It's how the eyes process light and why the screen seems black when there is enough on-screen material to provide higher contrast. The Pioneers are as good as it gets (without introducing other artifacts like blooming/less than ideal viewing angles) but not pitch back. This is why many are (im)patiently awaiting OLED to arrive on the scene.
post #27862 of 30263
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinnie97 View Post

Yes, it's normal. It's how the eyes process light and why the screen seems black when there is enough on-screen material to provide higher contrast. The Pioneers are as good as it gets (without introducing other artifacts like blooming/less than ideal viewing angles) but not pitch back. This is why many are (im)patiently awaiting OLED to arrive on the scene.

I see. So this is my eyes playing tricks on me rather than the Kuro's black levels changing depending on the screen content? The reason I ask is because the black letterbox bars are nowhere near "bezel-blending" in low contrast scenes. The difference between the black levels in high contrast scenes and low contrast scenes is night and day.

I'm not sure how accurate the pictures are in the Pioneer Kuro pictures thread, but there are some pictures where the Kuro's black levels remain bezel blending even when there is hardly any content on the screen.
post #27863 of 30263
You can't rely upon photos viewed on your (likely) LCD monitor to get an idea of actual black levels. wink.gif In the scenarios of which you speak, it can be quite noticeable if the bias (environment) lighting is nil. Saw it on my 111FD tonight, in fact, while viewing Lawless (in a scene where the only bright content appeared in the middle of the screen with the camera shooting from the end of a dark tunnel).
post #27864 of 30263
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinnie97 View Post

You can't rely upon photos viewed on your (likely) LCD monitor to get an idea of actual black levels. wink.gif In the scenarios of which you speak, it can be quite noticeable if the bias (environment) lighting is nil. Saw it on my 111FD tonight, in fact, while viewing Lawless (in a scene where the only bright content appeared in the middle of the screen with the camera shooting from the end of a dark tunnel).

Yeah the room is pretty small and I have all the lights off and the curtains and door shut as well to have the darkest room conditions possible. I was under the impression that, in a pitch black room, the Kuro's blacks were always inky regardless of the screen content. I'm glad I was wrong and that my Kuro is perfectly fine.

Do all other TV's experience this phenomenon where blacks are lighter in low contrast content?
post #27865 of 30263
Kuro displays those low contrast scenes as good as it gets, pretty much the best at that. I am disappointed that after 4 years since Kuro 9G's release no one was able to improve that, I always wanted a bit more deeper blacks during dark scenes, what a shame how current technologies are focusing more on gimmicks than actual PQ.
post #27866 of 30263
Quote:
Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post

Yeah the room is pretty small and I have all the lights off and the curtains and door shut as well to have the darkest room conditions possible. I was under the impression that, in a pitch black room, the Kuro's blacks were always inky regardless of the screen content. I'm glad I was wrong and that my Kuro is perfectly fine.
Do all other TV's experience this phenomenon where blacks are lighter in low contrast content?
Do you have any other sets with which to compare? That should provide you with an immediate answer (the question is invariably yes, with almost all other TVs, with the exception of the Sharp Elite panel, doing even more poorly in such scenarios).
post #27867 of 30263
Quote:
Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post

i have noticed that my kuro 101fd doesnt produce bezel blending black when displaying dark scenes (low contrast scenes)... is this normal? For instance, when watching a bright high contrast movie (like toy story, up) in a dark room environment, the letterbox bars are conpletely black and blend in with the bezel. However, when watching a low contrast dark movie or scene in the same darkened room conditions, the black bars dont blend with the bezel at all and seem to get lighter. This also occurs in scenes where the majority of the screen is black with very little content on it (such as a films final credits). The blacks near the white credits text is inky black while the black near the edges seems lighter and doesnt blend in with the bezel. I do not have the red tint issue but would like to know if its normal for the kuro's blacks to get lighter in low contrast scenes. I am using isf mode day and night using settings obtained from this website. The behavior also occurs with the kuros other picture modes.
I would greatly appreciate if someone could answer this or attemp to replicate the issue on their sets.

It's the way our eyes work. When alot of light enters our eyes the pupil gets smaller and black seems infinite. When there's no light our pupils are open wide and can detect any hint of light.

With that said. No, the kuros don't have 0 black. There will be a glow on extremely dark movies, but the kuro handles them so well imo. When i watch a dark movie on my 151, the latest harry potter for example, the picture is very dark with excellent shawdow detail. I do see a glow to the bars but to me and what i see on my display it's very dark. A dark glow if you will. With any amount of light on the screen the bars disappear.

I never get distracted by gray blacks like i use to with my LCD.
post #27868 of 30263
Thanks for the answers guys. I am a fairly new Pioneer Kuro owner (bought my 101FD six months ago) and from what I had read about these sets, was under the impression that the inky blacks were constant regardless of the screen content. I'm glad to know that there's nothing wrong with my Kuro and that it's normal behavior. Don't get me wrong, I am extremely happy with it and can't believe the technology hasn't been surpassed even after 5 years.
post #27869 of 30263
Quote:
Originally Posted by metallicaband View Post

Kuro displays those low contrast scenes as good as it gets, pretty much the best at that. I am disappointed that after 4 years since Kuro 9G's release no one was able to improve that, I always wanted a bit more deeper blacks during dark scenes, what a shame how current technologies are focusing more on gimmicks than actual PQ.

Quote:
Originally Posted by makaveddie81 View Post

Thanks for the answers guys. I am a fairly new Pioneer Kuro owner (bought my 101FD six months ago) and from what I had read about these sets, was under the impression that the inky blacks were constant regardless of the screen content. I'm glad to know that there's nothing wrong with my Kuro and that it's normal behavior. Don't get me wrong, I am extremely happy with it and can't believe the technology hasn't been surpassed even after 5 years.

You are both right, no one has been able to duplicate or best the Kuro's technology, but Panasonic seems to be getting closer with their VT50 model. If my PRO-151 died tomorrow that would be the model I would choose to replace it. I'm hoping my KURO Elite will hold out until the OLED displays hit the market (which could be awhile for they recently announced that their debut models which were scheduled for release this month may not come out until December of 2013), or until Panasonic is able to *perfect* their plasma display.
Edited by djoberg - 12/10/12 at 3:13pm
post #27870 of 30263
Questions about HDMI and RCA connections for my Pio Elite Kuro PRO-151FD.

I have Comcast Triple-Play with a Comcast HD cable box. I have 3 RCA wires coming out of my cable box plugged into the left side of the Kuro and one HDMI wire coming from the cable box plugged into the left side of the Kuro as well. I thought with HDMI it carries both the audio and sound through. Why are the 3 rca cables there? Are they necessary and can I try seeing if the tv works with the rca cables unplugged? I won't do any damage will I?

Also, D-Nice said in another thread that Pioneer do internal processing in RGB.
So in this case is better to set RGB 16-235 HDMI color space in BD player with Pioneer Kuro?
Edited by oppopioneer - 12/11/12 at 3:24pm
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