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The Official Pioneer 9G Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 933

post #27961 of 28862
I have never calibrated my 151 Kuro and have thoroughly enjoyed the picture. But out of curiosity I am ready to have it professionally calibrated. I would very much appreciate recommendations for calibrators in Los Angeles.

PS I am sending this as a reply because I am new to this board and cannot find a button to send an original post. I would also appreciate help with this.
post #27962 of 28862
Jeff from accucal , he does national tours . Google accucal.
post #27963 of 28862
Quote:
Originally Posted by finguerres View Post

Have a 151 in need of calibration, central New Jersey. Anyone have recommendations? Thank you.

D-Nice did a fantastic job on my 500M up here in N. NJ

I do not come to the AVS boards much myself lately, has he been MIA?
post #27964 of 28862
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeLfMaDe111985 View Post

How do you check the hours used on a 111FD?! Anyone know? My buddy might sell me his 111fd it's 3 years old in good condition I just need to see how many hours are on it

Get KuroReader 2.0 for your PC or Mac, hook up the 111FD to your your home network (LAN or Wireless) and you are in business, lots of features! smile.gif

http://jdbimmer.wix.com/kuroreader

Gman
post #27965 of 28862
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1randy1 View Post

I have never calibrated my 151 Kuro and have thoroughly enjoyed the picture. But out of curiosity I am ready to have it professionally calibrated. I would very much appreciate recommendations for calibrators in Los Angeles.

PS I am sending this as a reply because I am new to this board and cannot find a button to send an original post. I would also appreciate help with this.

Another vote for Jeff Meier he calibrated my 141 & surround sound.
post #27966 of 28862
Hello. I had my KRP-600 M calibrated in Sept 2010 and now my calibrator (Doug Weil) is recommending a "touch-up" calibration. The picture still looks great to me and there are times that I have a "if it runs, leave the hood down" attitude towards this sort of thing. Any comments or suggestions? I could certainly save some green if I could get by without having this done. Is there any risk? Thanks!
post #27967 of 28862
Quote:
Originally Posted by William Moore View Post

Hello. I had my KRP-600 M calibrated in Sept 2010 and now my calibrator (Doug Weil) is recommending a "touch-up" calibration. The picture still looks great to me and there are times that I have a "if it runs, leave the hood down" attitude towards this sort of thing. Any comments or suggestions? I could certainly save some green if I could get by without having this done. Is there any risk? Thanks!

Certainly no risk. Wanna spend the cash for tweaking? Sounds like you don't. Don't.
post #27968 of 28862
Quote:
Originally Posted by saprano View Post

Where's D-nice? He really left this place huh?

umr, have you been to ces? What do you think of the panasonic ZT60 compared to the kuros? My 151 still impresses me. Even after seeing Sony's 4K TV. Which had average black levels. Goes to show that more pixels aren't everything.
Left the forum? No.

The ZT60 is "interesting" but, it is no match for a 2nd gen Kuro after one of my calibrations.
post #27969 of 28862
Quote:
Originally Posted by GmanAVS View Post

D-Nice did a fantastic job on my 500M up here in N. NJ

I do not come to the AVS boards much myself lately, has he been MIA?
No. I've just significantly reduced the amount of time I spend on this forum.
post #27970 of 28862
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

Left the forum? No.

The ZT60 is "interesting" but, it is no match for a 2nd gen Kuro after one of my calibrations.
There you have it, folks. frown.gif Onward to 2014. wink.gif
post #27971 of 28862
You may be correct, but then again, an UltraHD may show better blacks in 2013, particularly if OLED.
post #27972 of 28862
I haven't heard of any UltraHD OLEDs getting released in 2013, and the price would be nothing less than $20k methinks, lol. I don't believe any of the UltraHD LCDs have better blacks, but I could be proven wrong (using tricks such as local dimming zones like the Sharp Elites, they could level the playing field to a degree).
post #27973 of 28862
They STILL can't beat a 2008 technology? Yeah I know it was Super expensive to create, but we're talking about 4-5 years old tech here, considering the way technology moves that's a VERY VERY long ass time!

OLED better be good, if Panasonic still can't beat Pioneer to this year then all hope is lost when it comes to plasma for me, next generation of consoles could very well be released at the end of this year or early 2014, I need to get a 65"+ display along with it but the current options are very disappointing!
post #27974 of 28862
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dust Bubble View Post

Hey guys I have Kuro 151 pioneer elite bought it used not to long ago. I have recently noticed in certain angles of light when the screen is black a possible scratch on the bottom left of the screen. When I run my fingernail across it I don’t feel any edges. Which leads me to thinks it’s more of a scuff almost like it changed the color of black and made it slightly shinier. Is there something on the outside of the glass like a dark layer of film for anti reflection purposes? I expected minor issues with the panel since it’s used and when watching shows it’s not noticeable but I am just curious as to what type of damage this is and if it can be fixed?

One other thing I noticed when watching wide screen movies with the black bars on the top and bottom of the screen the very last lines of pixels bordering the black bar is slightly lighter tint then the following row of pixels both on the top and bottom. Again not a huge deal but something I have noticed. Is this normal or something that can be fixed?

There is a coating for anti reflection purposes. You have to be very carful about cleaning it. Only use a dry cloth and use it very very lightly. Don't use any sprays, otherwise you'll end up with blue streaks. Maybe clean it once a year at the most. I've only cleaned mine once in the almost five years I've owned mine.

Next time I watch a wide screen movie, I'll check the area where the movie stops and the black bars begin.
post #27975 of 28862
Quote:
Originally Posted by metallicaband View Post

They STILL can't beat a 2008 technology? Yeah I know it was Super expensive to create, but we're talking about 4-5 years old tech here, considering the way technology moves that's a VERY VERY long ass time!
Reread my post again. I was very specific in what I posted.
post #27976 of 28862
That the Panny is "interesting"? Only if my 151FD does the same as my 150FD did, dies.
post #27977 of 28862
good to see you posting d nice:)
post #27978 of 28862
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

Reread my post again. I was very specific in what I posted.

From what I understood, a ZT60 is no competition to a properly calibrated 2nd Gen Kuro.

English is my 3rd spoken language, so if I'm missing something here please let me know what is it.
post #27979 of 28862
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

Left the forum? No.

The ZT60 is "interesting" but, it is no match for a 2nd gen Kuro after one of my calibrations.

But who knows what you can do with a ZT60 wink.gif

- Rich
post #27980 of 28862
Quote:
Originally Posted by metallicaband View Post

From what I understood, a ZT60 is no competition to a properly calibrated 2nd Gen Kuro.

English is my 3rd spoken language, so if I'm missing something here please let me know what is it.
You didn't miss anything. That was his point: a properly calibrated 2nd Gen Kuro is still king. But the operative phrase there was "properly calibrated." At least that's my take on it.
post #27981 of 28862
Quote:
Originally Posted by xwilliam View Post

You didn't miss anything. That was his point: a properly calibrated 2nd Gen Kuro is still king. But the operative phrase there was "properly calibrated." At least that's my take on it.

DNice also has his own software than can lower the black levels even further. I think that's what he was referring to.
post #27982 of 28862
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonyboy View Post

DNice also has his own software than can lower the black levels even further. I think that's what he was referring to.
Correct
post #27983 of 28862
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

Left the forum? No.

The ZT60 is "interesting" but, it is no match for a 2nd gen Kuro after one of my calibrations.

Hey man. Good to see you posting. I thought you left us.

So according to what you posted, without doing your special calibration the ZT60 matches the kuro? What was the MLL? Did you get to test the F8500 too?

Basically I want to know can kuro owners replace their displays with either TV and be happy? Ate they finally better than the kuro?
post #27984 of 28862
Hi all. I apologize if this was covered in one of the other 931 pages or should be posted in image retention thread. But I figured Elite owners might know better.

I have burn in on an Elite Pro-101FD from watching 4:3 with gray bars.

Monitor was watched in mostly HD for a couple years. Then exclusively 4:3 with gray bars for a few months and I now have burn in on both sides. I have always had orbiter in mode 2. It is very noticeable with white on the screen. Or white on black. Like when credits roll they have a yellow tint instead of being pure white. The 4:3 area is darker than areas outside 4:3 area.

I have downloaded image break in that cycles thru several colored screens. I notice the difference on every color but red.

I also downloaded jscreenfix screen saver. Is that a better option over screen break-in at this point?

My question is will image break-in work? Would I be better off leaving it on one color, like white over the cycle through colors?

Once I decide to use all colors or just one how long should I run it? And finally should I change contrast or brightness while running it?

THANKS:)
Edited by imcheesehead1 - 1/26/13 at 9:04pm
post #27985 of 28862
Quote:
Originally Posted by imcheesehead1 View Post

Hi all. I apologize if this was covered in one of the other 931 pages or should be posted in image retention thread. But I figured Elite owners might know better.

I have burn in on an Elite Pro-101FD from watching 4:3 with gray bars.

Monitor was watched in mostly HD for a couple years. Then exclusively 4:3 with gray bars for a few months and I now have burn in on both sides. I have always had orbiter in mode 2. It is very noticeable with white on the screen. Or white on black. Like when credits roll they have a yellow tint instead of being pure white. The 4:3 area is darker than areas outside 4:3 area.

I have downloaded image break in that cycles thru several colored screens. I notice the difference on every color but red.

I also downloaded jscreenfix screen saver. Is that a better option over screen break-in at this point?

My question is will image break-in work? Would I be better off leaving it on one color, like white over the cycle through colors?

Once I decide to use all colors or just one how long should I run it? And finally should I change contrast or brightness while running it?

THANKS:)

Did you try using the video pattern that is in the Kuro menu settings?
post #27986 of 28862
Hello fellow Kuro owners,

I have just purchased a back up power supply board (Part# AXY1200) for my Pro-111FD. I intend to keep my Kuro for many more years and just want that reassurance in case the current power supply board in my 111 destroys itself.

It came delivered in a box with bubble wrap around it. I want to properly put it in storage. What is the best method for storage. Should I take the bubble wrap off? And I'm going to assume it will not need ventilation so leaving it in a box will be OK I hope?

Thanks
post #27987 of 28862
Quote:
Originally Posted by Edllguy View Post

Hello fellow Kuro owners,

I have just purchased a back up power supply board (Part# AXY1200) for my Pro-111FD. I intend to keep my Kuro for many more years and just want that reassurance in case the current power supply board in my 111 destroys itself.

It came delivered in a box with bubble wrap around it. I want to properly put it in storage. What is the best method for storage. Should I take the bubble wrap off? And I'm going to assume it will not need ventilation so leaving it in a box will be OK I hope?

Thanks

Store it in a static resistant package, if it isn't already (usually pink or metallic gray). Preferably in a dry temperature controlled environment.
post #27988 of 28862
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonyboy View Post

DNice also has his own software than can lower the black levels even further. I think that's what he was referring to.

Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

Correct

This is great to hear. D-Nice did the initial calibration on my 151 in 2009 and a touch up in 2011. I look forward to seeing what improvements D-Nice can do when my 151 is due for another touch up next year.

Hey D-Nice, thinking about it, should wait until my next tune up or are the improvements offered by your new software worth going ahead and doing now? You can PM me if you prefer not to post.

For anyone looking for a calibrator, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend D-Nice!
post #27989 of 28862
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by saprano View Post

Where's D-nice? He really left this place huh?

umr, have you been to ces? What do you think of the panasonic ZT60 compared to the kuros? My 151 still impresses me. Even after seeing Sony's 4K TV. Which had average black levels. Goes to show that more pixels aren't everything.
Left the forum? No.

The ZT60 is "interesting" but, it is no match for a 2nd gen Kuro after one of my calibrations.

How can this single phrase not be any clearer?

I feel very lucky not to have the need to upgrade in screen size and that after 6,447 hours my 500M has not had a single problem. tongue.gif

D-Nice, thank you again for giving me all these hour of enhanced viewing enjoyment. biggrin.gif

Gman
post #27990 of 28862
^Well, you never know, maybe D-Nice can spread his magic to the ZT60 after he gets more hand's on time with it? wink.gif

You really wouldn't be tempted to upgrade in size if the new set could match the factory black level of your 500m?
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