In a way I think that folk's quest for infinitely black blacks is a bit misplaced. To me the big issue with these wonderful displays is that they compress the dark end of the spectrum, masking detail in the very dark areas. I think that is the biggest failing of these otherwise near perfect displays.
I think the kuros actually reproduced dark scenes as intended. For example in that Harry Potter scene i mentioned before, on my samsung LCD you can see WAY more stuff. But i don't think it's suppose to be that way. When it's dark outside its not suppose look like a overhead lamp is shining down. It suppose to look near pitch black. I tested scenes from Sherlock Holmes AGOS and my samsung still showed more detail in extremely dark scenes. But it looks wrong and artificial.
Maby this is why people think other TV's have better shadow detail?
I remember this from Thomas J. Norton when he reviewed the 141-
Some people (particularly competitors) have argued that Pioneer’s near-black levels are too dark and obscure shadow detail. I don’t agree. If you raise the properly calibrated black level on a Pioneer, it will sometimes reveal a few details that you couldn’t see otherwise, but you can also argue that you aren’t supposed to see them. When it was properly adjusted, this set never lost important, dark-scene visual information.
My 500M gives absolute pitch black bars during movies, only place where it's not inky black is during low contrast scenes, but it beats any other HDTV I've seen in the black/shadow detail combination by a mile.
somelogin, how exactly are you comparing the kuro with the st50 and an lcd set? are they side by side in the same room with the same lighting conditions? if you're simply going off of your recollection of how the st50 and lcd sets look, then its not a valid comparison.
Watch a bright and colorful cgi animated film. IF the bars are not inky black, then there is definitely a problem.
Also, any of you guys using the Darbee darblet? Is it worth it?
I'd also like to know this - What's the scoop on the Darblet with Kuro? (Mine's 151FD, ISF calibrated.) I'm most interested in knowing if it benefits DirecTV HD source - I don't like the over-processed look ...
By the way, thanks for the help (a few pages back) re mounting, I finally got it mounted with a Peerless ST670 and it seems solid as a rock. Edited by miami - 4/11/13 at 12:53pm
D-Nice what do you calibrate ISF day to vs. ISF Night? (as far as light output). Just curious if there is any standard for sets which have both day and night.
Also, i can't ever find your opinions on the ISF modes. You had mentioned in a review that you would tell your opinions on the modes some time, but I haven't found them. I am curious if you use pure or the ISF modes yourself. I would have thought ISF would still be capable of doing at least "as good as" pure.
I calibrate day and night based on the customer and room. I exclusively use ISF-Night for 98% of my viewing.
I recently bought a KRP-500m from a local seller in Los Angeles. I activated the ISF modes and am attempting to calibrate them. I bought an Eye One Pro spectrophotometer and I am using ColorHCFR software.
I got brightness, contrast and the grayscale to be pretty much perfect. Now, however, I am having trouble adjusting the color and CMS. Can any of you give me some advice on how to get the color points as close to perfect as they can be?
I have no idea how to use the CMS controls. I played around with them and I got some changes, but not really substantial improvements overall.
What kind of Delta E errors should I be shooting for? The colors that are off the most seem to be blue and magenta.
I am getting red with a delta E of 1.5, green with a delta E of 3.0 and blue with a delta E of 6.5 to 7.
As for the secondaries, I can get both yellow and cyan to have delta E's under 2 but magenta is WAY off, usually with a delta E of 9 or 10. There seems to be almost NOTHING I can do to get the delta E on magenta under 8.
I want to know how calibrators like D-Nice are able to get their color points so close? What type of results should I be able to expect on a KRP-500m?
Is it more important to have delta E errors that are roughly equal or is it more important that certain colors are accurate at the expense of others?
Can you clue me in on what results I can achieve and what the best method is to set the color points? I am sure there is some secret or quirk in these displays that I am missing to get the color closer.
Second, I am a bit confused on the gamma. I was trying for a higher gamma at night, like 2.4 instead of 2.2. I want to see how that would look. However, I don't really know how to adjust the gamma. As it is, I have a pretty flat 2.2 gamma but I wanted to change it to see if a slightly higher setting would be beneficial in a dark environment. But how do I do it?
It probably involves the "ISF gamma" controls, but I have no idea how to use them. Could you help me out here? I was under the impression that a KRP-500m could be calibrated to produce a flat gamma line pretty much anywhere from 2.2 to 2.5. I want to compare the different target gammas and see which looks best in different lighting conditions.
I would really appreciate if someone could help me here. Thanks.
I'd also like to know this - What's the scoop on the Darblet with Kuro? (Mine's 151FD, IFC calibrated.) I'm most interested in knowing if it benefits DirecTV HD source - I don't like the over-processed look ...
By the way, thanks for the help (a few pages back) re mounting, I finally got it mounted with a Peerless ST670 and it seems solid as a rock.
The Darblett will benefit any source. Oddly enough, the better the source, the more the Darblett's processing can do with it, so a well-encoded Blu-ray can look even more 3-dimensional and contrasty without over-processing.
People seem to have the best experiences with it set in Hi Def mode, at a setting of between 45-65.
Ignoring them (one in particular posts a lot of misinformation and rudeness constantly, anyway). I was asked to do various thigns and report back and I did, so grow up. (edit: in fact even in that post by him he gave misinformation.... go figure)
Back on topic, though, for the ones of you who are helpful: I'm still waiting for someone to tell me what I should do to get it looked into. Paying for a calibration "just to see" if it can be fixed that way is laughable, so obviously I need to get someone who repairs, but my QUESTION is what to tell them or the warranty peeps to get it checked out. You know good and well if you say "my pic doesn't look dark enough" they will never agree it's a problem.
You have to get a professional's eyes on your TV. Whether you call Pioneer and set up something, or do the same with a Pioneer- approved service technician, that is your next step. (If you'd bought it from someplace with a return policy, you could do that, but life sometimes hands you lemons. I get that.)
Yes, I am aware, but he's acting like it's impossible that anyone here would know the tvs enough to know what it could "likely" be. i highly doubt there are more than two or three issues which would cause this problem. And like I said, I was hoping someone had advice on how to word it to where it will be taken seriously. What a reason for him to be rude... Just because he doesn't have an answer doesn't mean I should shut up and nobody else would come along who has the answers. Out of a thousand pages, I'm sure some posters in here know what I'm asking, unlike him, who you'd think would know.
By the way, sometimes motion looks funky too. I have a feeling that's normal for the tv, though. Only settings I ever use are Off and Advance. I think the tv just deosn't handle motion well. All the claims LCD bashers always made about what plasmas are better at sure have been untrue from what i've seen with this. Not as black bars, even worse motion, worse input lag for gaming, etc...
With all due respect, we cannot diagnose your TV problem for free on an internet forum.
Firstly, it's not our job.
Secondly, none of us want the liability.
You simply must get a service technician out to troubleshoot it.