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The Official Pioneer 9G Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 962

post #28831 of 30261
Was thinking about possibly selling my 600M because I have a projector that we do most movie watching and the 600M has not been being used except for limited day time viewing on some weekends. I don't see these being sold often so was wondering if anyone knows what these sell for used? Its in excellent condition, no smoking environment and broken in with DNice settings and color slides. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
post #28832 of 30261
Quote:
Originally Posted by rougebear View Post

Was thinking about possibly selling my 600M because I have a projector that we do most movie watching and the 600M has not been being used except for limited day time viewing on some weekends. I don't see these being sold often so was wondering if anyone knows what these sell for used? Its in excellent condition, no smoking environment and broken in with DNice settings and color slides. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Sent you a PM.
post #28833 of 30261
Thanks, D. I meant 0.0012, sigh. I can't keep the numbers straight.
post #28834 of 30261
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdbimmer View Post

Some of your questions are answered here: http://www.avsforum.com/t/852536/basic-guide-to-color-calibration-using-a-cms-updated-and-enhanced
You can get an idea of what the KRP's CMS controls do by selecting one, e.g., M(agenta), and changing it to -2 or +2, measure and then view Magenta on the CIE chart to see how it moved (xy) compared to when it was at zero. Look at the Y values in the data for changes in luminance. After making that change, re-measure the gray scale as well and you will see how that CMS control unfortunately had an impact on white balance. And different Primary/Secondary CMS adjustments effect the gray scale differently. That is why most of us leave them at zero unless they are patient/skilled enough to find a combination of white balance and CMS controls that benefits both the WB and Gamut. That being said, leaving the KRP's CMS controls at zero, Color at +5, and Tint at 0 should result in Primary and Secondary deltaE 94 values of less then 1.5 for everything except blue which will be between 3 and 4 dE. The latter can be improved a little through the service menu, but the improvement would be hardly visible by eye.

If I didn't know better, I'd think you had been testing my KRP - what you describe is identical to my settings. CMS controls appear to slightly affect the individual HUE of each colour, but as stated they can/do have an unfortunate impact on the linearity of Greyscale and Gamma, so generally best left at zero, unless you can counter their effect successfully (and your name starts with a capital D)
Regards, Mike.
post #28835 of 30261
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

I don't do ANSI measurements when doing customer calibrations.

DNice, do you have any tour dates for las vegas?
post #28836 of 30261
Quote:
Originally Posted by saprano View Post

If pure cinema is off it doesn't automatically do 72Hz. I don't know why people still think this.

Input Signal
OFF
STANDARD
SMOOTH
ADVANCE
480i
60Hz
60Hz
60Hz
72Hz
480p
60Hz
60Hz
60Hz
72Hz
720p
60Hz
60Hz
60Hz
72Hz
1080i
60Hz
60Hz
60Hz
72Hz
1080p/60
60Hz
60Hz
60Hz
60Hz
1080p/24
60Hz
72Hz
60Hz
72Hz


I notice smooth still has some type of an effect. It works and looks just like 60hz but pans and any kind of long movement have a silky smooth look.

Saprano - per this table it seems that Standard is the best setting for most users. 480i and 1080i would be 30Hz, while 480p/720p/1080p60 would all be 60Hz. 1080p24 makes sense to present at 72Hz because it is a multiple of 24. Many people claim Advance mode is the best mode - is there any reason why their statement is valid? This table reinforces to me that Standard is the best mode for most folks, unless I am interpreting something incorrectly. biggrin.gif

Thank you for the clarifications...
post #28837 of 30261
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by NeilPeart View Post

D-Nice,
When is the next time you can make it out to California (SF Bay area)? I have a PRO-101FD waiting for a professional calibration if you are able to visit this area. Thank you.
6/28. I'll PM you.

Great! Looking forward to meeting you (and so does my Kuro). biggrin.gif
post #28838 of 30261
Quote:
Originally Posted by NeilPeart View Post

Saprano - per this table it seems that Standard is the best setting for most users. 480i and 1080i would be 30Hz, while 480p/720p/1080p60 would all be 60Hz. 1080p24 makes sense to present at 72Hz because it is a multiple of 24. Many people claim Advance mode is the best mode - is there any reason why their statement is valid? This table reinforces to me that Standard is the best mode for most folks, unless I am interpreting something incorrectly. biggrin.gif

Thank you for the clarifications...

As you can see, Advance works for everything.
post #28839 of 30261
I see that it would work but is 72Hz optimal for a 480i or 720p signal? Wouldn't 60Hz be preferred for everything except 1080p/24 (which standard mode displays at 72Hz)?
post #28840 of 30261
Anyone know if I would see a significant difference on my elite 151 playing blu-rays currently on a Ps3 up-grading to the bdp-09?
post #28841 of 30261
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dust Bubble View Post

Anyone know if I would see a significant difference on my elite 151 playing blu-rays currently on a Ps3 up-grading to the bdp-09?
In that range I would check out the OPPO 103 and 105 players. If you're using bitstream for audio it's probably not going to make a large difference in either audio or video for Blu-ray disks. Depending on the age of the PS3 there can be other advantages in going to the OPPO 103. If you are into high end analog audio, either the Pioneer 09 or the OPPO 105 are better.
post #28842 of 30261
Quote:
Originally Posted by saprano View Post

As you can see, Advance works for everything.

Does anyone know how Advance works? Does it add frames to create its look? Seems to me that when Advance is engaged the video image is a very very slight bit behind the audio
post #28843 of 30261
Quote:
Originally Posted by rumba View Post

Does anyone know how Advance works? Does it add frames to create its look? Seems to me that when Advance is engaged the video image is a very very slight bit behind the audio

For 24p material, frames are repeated 3 times for the 72hz option. No new intermediate frames are created.
post #28844 of 30261
I bought my KURO 500M when I registered here back in Oct 2010, and finally a few days ago I've begun to notice these red dots in the middle of the screen. Luckily they only appear when most of the screen is white with ~20% being dark or black, and the black areas must be above or below the center of the [white] screen.
eek.gif
Notice the red pixels in the above image (try to ignore the screen door effect, I took a macro shot with my camera).

The Good news is that they are not permanent, and disappear when I use "Standard" Power Management (I've always used Save2). I can even make the red spots appear & disappear by using MS Paint and enlarging & minimizing a black blob on a white background.

I bought my KURO used for $1,000 and it had ~3k hours on it, and since Oct of 2010, I've probably put another ~9k hours on top of that. So that makes my monitor 12,000 hours old.

Solution: if you notice red pixels on your 500M and you want them to disappear (or be less apparent) then change your Power Management from Save1/2 to Standard.
Edited by Acid Snow - 6/15/13 at 2:48pm
post #28845 of 30261
Quote:
Originally Posted by JazzGuyy View Post

For 24p material, frames are repeated 3 times for the 72hz option. No new intermediate frames are created.

Curious if you know how it works for regular non 24p content?
post #28846 of 30261
Quote:
Originally Posted by Acid Snow View Post

I bought my KURO 500M when I registered here back in Oct 2010, and finally a few days ago I've begun to notice these red dots in the middle of the screen. Luckily they only appear when most of the screen is white with ~20% being dark or black, and the black areas must be above or below the center of the [white] screen.
eek.gif
Notice the red pixels in the above image (try to ignore the screen door effect, I took a macro shot with my camera).

The Good news is that they are not permanent, and disappear when I use "Standard" Power Management (I've always used Save2). I can even make the red spots appear & disappear by using MS Paint and enlarging & minimizing a black blob on a white background.

I bought my KURO used for $1,000 and it had ~3k hours on it, and since Oct of 2010, I've probably put another ~9k hours on top of that. So that makes my monitor 12,000 hours old.

Solution: if you notice red pixels on your 500M and you want them to disappear (or be less apparent) then change your Power Management from Save1/2 to Standard.

Please correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the above issue the result of the power supply board going bad. Maybe some other members could chime in.
post #28847 of 30261
Quote:
Originally Posted by Edllguy View Post

Please correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the above issue the result of the power supply board going bad. Maybe some other members could chime in.
I really haven't been following this thread, but the Red dots that I'm getting on my 500M are only in certain situations, and when using Save2/1. If I use Standard power management they are far less obvious. ...It is no doubt a power issue, because as I wrote in my previous post, I can FORCE the red dots to appear just by loading up MS Paint, and drawing solid black shapes above or below the center of the screen. I just hope I don't need TV, because I've fallen in love with my KURO over the past 3yrs! I love the blacks, and the 1080p resolution is still a great gaming resolution at 5ft.
Edited by Acid Snow - 6/15/13 at 7:38pm
post #28848 of 30261
How do i find  accessories for the 151 on the parts site? Nothing is coming up.
post #28849 of 30261
^what are you looking for?
post #28850 of 30261
post #28851 of 30261
How did you find that? I was looking but couldn't find anything. Thank you.

@t-town oil- I'm looking for the cleaning cloth.
post #28852 of 30261
So I have a 151fd that is approximately 5 years old, never had any issues with it until today - I moved to a new city and the kuro took a 6hr trip in the uhaul (packaged it very snugly on it's stand with moving blankets and sandwiched between two mattresses). Now the set won't turn on and the only thing I see is a red LED light illuminate for a few seconds through the back of the set. I tried a different power cord but no luck. We never dropped the tv and I can't think of anything that could have caused it to get damaged (other than maybe the short trip it took on the dolly - maybe the rattling jarred something loose?). Any quick fixes I could try before having to call a technician? Thanks in advance.
post #28853 of 30261
might sound silly, but have you tried the power button, bottom left.
post #28854 of 30261
Quote:
Originally Posted by craigyboy View Post

might sound silly, but have you tried the power button, bottom left.


Good idea - amazing how many times it's happened over the years
post #28855 of 30261
Wow, that was it! You guys are lifesavers, I was only seeing the standby/on switch on the side
post #28856 of 30261
Right on!! These sets are built to last…they are built with quality.
post #28857 of 30261
5 years down, 5 years to go? cool.gif Wouldn't blame you in the least with a 60" panel.
post #28858 of 30261
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinnie97 View Post

5 years down, 5 years to go? cool.gif Wouldn't blame you in the least with a 60" panel.

You nailed it!! lol
post #28859 of 30261
Everyone likes big panels, if you sit a country mile from it- me i sit in my bedroom 5ft to my 50"... 'Looks' huge - to me.

I liked that distance/resolution chart you posted the other day vinnie smile.gif
post #28860 of 30261
Saprano, thought I may have had my cleaning cloth to give you, but after digging around I couldn't find anything. Guess the only things I have left that are unused are the stand and speakers. Sorry
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