or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Plasma Flat Panel Displays › The Official Pioneer 9G Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

The Official Pioneer 9G Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 977

post #29281 of 30263
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmrowe View Post

I hope this is a really dumb question. I have always had my 60" Kuro mounted on a wall. Well, we recently moved and I put it on the stand. Now that its on the stand, it doesn't look right. Its almost as if the stand needs to go further up into the tv. There are about 2 inches of open space between the top of the mount and the middle of the tv. Is this normal? I looked through dozens of pictures online and saw nothing like this. Is there a trick to get the stand to go all the way into the tv?


Thanks,
Bryan
The speakers on non-elite Kuro panels are attached to the bottom of the set. The Elite models had a speaker attached to each end of the display. It depends on which model you have to determine if there is something wrong.

People with the non-elite modes came up with various solutions. Check the non-elite threads for your model it that's why your stand looks the way it does.
post #29282 of 30263
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmrowe View Post

I hope this is a really dumb question. I have always had my 60" Kuro mounted on a wall. Well, we recently moved and I put it on the stand. Now that its on the stand, it doesn't look right. Its almost as if the stand needs to go further up into the tv. There are about 2 inches of open space between the top of the mount and the middle of the tv. Is this normal? I looked through dozens of pictures online and saw nothing like this. Is there a trick to get the stand to go all the way into the tv?

EDIT: It actually looks just like this:



Thanks,
Bryan


That is the stand for the undermount speaker, you have the wrong stand.

You could cut the posts down to make it fit though.
post #29283 of 30263
Quote:
Originally Posted by nfalls40 View Post

I just recently purchased a used pro-111fd for, no word of a lie, $100, that is right, $100, the person who sold it to me said it was broken, he wanted 325 or best offer and i got him down to 100, just to save on some repair costs if it was even fixable, he did not bother to take it in to be looked at as he already purchased a new TV, so i brought it home, noticed that it did turn on but had the 8 blinking lights, pause, 8 again, so i looked around the internet for some possible solutions, tried a couple, but none would work until I came on to this site and noticed, i believe that it was a D-Nice post of holding in the standby button on the TV for 10 seconds with the TV cord unplugged and leave it unplugged overnight and plugging it back in the next day, low and behold it worked, it worked, for how long i do not know but even if it is going to be for a limited time i will glaze and watch TV in all of its glory on this wonderful TV. Some of you may or may not believe me, but this is the honest to god true story, he was just selling it off for parts so my wife told me go for it, if you fix it, you fix it, if not, your out 100 or I could sell it off for parts to make my money back and a bit more.

You, are one lucky SOB! smile.gif
post #29284 of 30263
Awesome!
post #29285 of 30263
Without searching the whole thread, can somebody provide the max brightness of these 9G Elite panels that it can achieve. I heard it is somewhere around 40 fl? Correct me if I'm wrong.

Thanks.
post #29286 of 30263
Depends on the size. The 50" panels can go up to around 47? I think 40 is correct for the 60" panels.
post #29287 of 30263
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinnie97 View Post

Depends on the size. The 50" panels can go up to around 47? I think 40 is correct for the 60" panels.

Thanks.

I thought that the bigger the panel, the brighter it would be because the total pixels are bigger?

But you're telling me that the smaller the panel, it's the exact opposite. Does that mean that the bigger the panel, the deeper blacks it has?
post #29288 of 30263
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

The speakers on non-elite Kuro panels are attached to the bottom of the set. The Elite models had a speaker attached to each end of the display. It depends on which model you have to determine if there is something wrong.

People with the non-elite modes came up with various solutions. Check the non-elite threads for your model it that's why your stand looks the way it does.

I do have a non-elite. I had totally forgotten about that undermount speaker. I thought I was going crazy. Thanks for the quick help!
post #29289 of 30263
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmrowe View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

The speakers on non-elite Kuro panels are attached to the bottom of the set. The Elite models had a speaker attached to each end of the display. It depends on which model you have to determine if there is something wrong.

People with the non-elite modes came up with various solutions. Check the non-elite threads for your model it that's why your stand looks the way it does.

I do have a non-elite. I had totally forgotten about that undermount speaker. I thought I was going crazy. Thanks for the quick help!
smile.gif
post #29290 of 30263
Quote:
Originally Posted by AuDiOBoY529 View Post

Thanks.

I thought that the bigger the panel, the brighter it would be because the total pixels are bigger?

But you're telling me that the smaller the panel, it's the exact opposite. Does that mean that the bigger the panel, the deeper blacks it has?
It might have something to do with the ABL circuitry and no, unfortunately, that doesn't apply to the low end (bigger doesn't mean blacker).
post #29291 of 30263
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmrowe View Post

I do have a non-elite. I had totally forgotten about that undermount speaker. I thought I was going crazy. Thanks for the quick help!

We used to call that the chicken foot stand! smile.gif

Seeing it again minus the speaker really makes me glad I got the Elite again!
post #29292 of 30263
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinnie97 View Post

Depends on the size. The 50" panels can go up to around 47? I think 40 is correct for the 60" panels.

I thought people get to 50ftl in isf day?
post #29293 of 30263
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jano18 View Post

Sweet deal! I would have bought it without thinking twice, even for $325. If your problem persists it is the audio board that is failing.
Specifically a voltage regulator on the audio board. IC7951, from memory. part cost about $2.
post #29294 of 30263
Quote:
Originally Posted by [Irishman] View Post

We used to call that the chicken foot stand! smile.gif

Seeing it again minus the speaker really makes me glad I got the Elite again!

Yeah, it isn't attractive at all. I ordered a replacement speaker online just to cover up that gap(I threw it away when I mounted it on the wall at my last home). I am hiding my sub and some cabling behind the tv, so that gap was even worse when you can see the mess that is hiding back there.
post #29295 of 30263
Yes, over 50 ftL is easily possible in the ISF modes with a 60". My ISF Day is set to 50 (ISF Night=30, Pure=40) just to make it a nice round number. Also, the higher you go, the more skill/experience it seems to take to get a nice calibration. If you are a bit less fussy or less skilled, 54 ftL is doable with decent results, but it would take skill (or time...) to get it as good as at 50 ftL. IMO/E etc.

Now if you are asking about non-ISF brightness, then yes the 40 range seems about it for the 60" I have. I can get it up to IIRC 44 ftL in Pure, but I just could not calibrate it there to my satisfaction, whereas 40 is good and much easier.

I am a total amateur, but I do have lots of time (AFAIK)... smile.gif
post #29296 of 30263
Quote:
Originally Posted by saprano View Post

I thought people get to 50ftl in isf day?

Chad B calibrated my 101fd to 52ftl in Isf day back in February. He said he could have gone to 60.
post #29297 of 30263
OK, then...up to 60 ftL for the 50" and 50+ fTL for the 60". eek.gif
post #29298 of 30263
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinnie97 View Post

OK, then...up to 60 ftL for the 50" and 50+ fTL for the 60". eek.gif

I also had no idea that the Kuro's (Elites only I expect) could get that bright. I have a KRP-500m and I can usually get about 47 or 48 ftL in ISF Day setting the contrast to 36. For ISF Night its set at 34 ftL. I could probably get it to 50 or 51 ftL in ISF Day but I have a hard time getting an accurate calibration. I would really like to know how expert calibrators are able to get higher brightness. Not because I want or need it to be brighter but just out of curiosity as I don't see how that is possible.

But the fact remains that the 9g Elites seem to be able to get as bright as you could possibly want them to be. 47ftL is more than enough for watching during the day in virtually all circumstances.


On this point, I was wondering how bright the Samsung F8500 gets? It supposedly has this revolutionary brightness for a plasma but I cannot imagine why you would need anything greater than 50ftL (assuming the F8500 gets brighter than that). Does anyone know anything about this? How does the F8500 compare to, say, the 101 or 500m?
post #29299 of 30263
@saprano, this is my second, i still use my first that i recently moved to our living room/kitchen area, my wife did some redecorating last week, long story, it is a 8th gen, non-elite 4280, very nice TV, had it for about 2yrs, bought it used, it has closed to 11,000hrs on her, not one problem, knock on wood
post #29300 of 30263
Thanks guys. I heard in most rooms, anything over 40 ftL is a waste but I guess it depends on how bright the room is and as well it's personal preference.
post #29301 of 30263
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrodefeld View Post

I also had no idea that the Kuro's (Elites only I expect) could get that bright. I have a KRP-500m and I can usually get about 47 or 48 ftL in ISF Day setting the contrast to 36. For ISF Night its set at 34 ftL. I could probably get it to 50 or 51 ftL in ISF Day but I have a hard time getting an accurate calibration. I would really like to know how expert calibrators are able to get higher brightness. Not because I want or need it to be brighter but just out of curiosity as I don't see how that is possible.

But the fact remains that the 9g Elites seem to be able to get as bright as you could possibly want them to be. 47ftL is more than enough for watching during the day in virtually all circumstances.


On this point, I was wondering how bright the Samsung F8500 gets? It supposedly has this revolutionary brightness for a plasma but I cannot imagine why you would need anything greater than 50ftL (assuming the F8500 gets brighter than that). Does anyone know anything about this? How does the F8500 compare to, say, the 101 or 500m?

I don't know actually how high the F8500 actually goes (accurately) i would guess about 70/75 ftl.

I read on the calibration forums that D-Nice went up to 54 ftl on a 500M (presumably the 101 is the same - basically)

I don't know if it could of gone higher than that i can't remember all of the post tbh. But if chadb as was mentioned in an earlier post on here could have gone up to 60 ftl on a 50" - then being a pro calibrator presumably it was 60 ftl remaining accurate in a calibration sense cool.gif

It's nice to know the monitors go so bright but i couldn't justify that even in a bright room tbh. Game mode in non direct, bright daylight with all "extra" processing turned off amd contrast contrast at 40 looks enough to me tbh. Wonder what the FTL for game mode is approximately anyway ?
post #29302 of 30263
Is Pure mode contrast about 38, about 40FTL ? - anyone know for sure or (approximate) FTL numbers for contrast numbers in each of the AV presets with all extras turned off or/and on (default).

Would really love an idea of approximate FTL numbers for these.

Cheers
post #29303 of 30263
^ I have a 151, and I think what you're saying is about correct if you use e.g. D-Nice's Pure mode settings on my display. I would have to go through a bunch of files to find the "exact" numbers, but I seem to recall going much over Contrast=40 on mine actually reduced the brightness. Certainly Contrast >42 was non-beneficial, I do recall that for sure, but I don't recall exactly where ftl started decreasing.

To be honest, this Pure mode calibration was just for the helluvit, practice, as I never use Pure mode. I exclusively use ISF-Night at 30 ftl since I only watch at night in a light-controlled room anyway. And BTW those 151 example settings weren't even close to a "calibration" for my particular display, nor were they intended to be, but a good and pleasant-to-the-eye starting point if you have no other means.

Edit: I'm sure you know that "ISF-Night/Day" are just memory names and have nothing to do with day/night/brightness, though ISF-Auto is special. JIC somebody else takes some special meaning from it...
Edited by cfraser - 9/5/13 at 8:16pm
post #29304 of 30263
Do you guys have any idea why TJN's measurements for his 141 is significantly different from 2009?

Here's his original measurement
Quote:
Full-On/Full-Off Contrast Ratio: 33,500:1


I took 20 full-screen black-level readings. Eighteen of them measured 0.000, and two measured 0.001—the lowest reading possible with our Minolta LS-100 light meter.

http://www.hometheater.com/content/pioneer-elite-pro-141fd-plasma-monitor-measurements



And here's what he reported in his comparison with the ZT60
Quote:
The full-on/full-off contrast ratio measured on the Pioneer PRO-141FD Kuro for the comparisons in this test was 22,400:1 with peak white 33.6 ft-L, black level 0.0015 ft-L.

http://www.hometheater.com/content/panasonic-tc-p65zt60-3d-plasma-hdtv-test-bench



You think it's because of the red tint he's now starting to get? Which by the way, weirdly, he says is normal. He also says he has 3000 hours on his panel.

0.000/0.001 is a large jump to 0.0015.
Edited by saprano - 9/6/13 at 1:07am
post #29305 of 30263
Quote:
Originally Posted by saprano View Post

Do you guys have any idea why TJN's measurements for his 141 is significantly different from 2009?

Here's his original measurement


http://www.hometheater.com/content/pioneer-elite-pro-141fd-plasma-monitor-measurements



And here's what he reported in his comparison with the ZT60


http://www.hometheater.com/content/panasonic-tc-p65zt60-3d-plasma-hdtv-test-bench



You think it's because of the red tint he's now starting to get? Which by the way, weirdly, he says is normal. He also says he has 3000 hours on his panel.

0.000/0.001 is a large jump to 0.0015.

I think one of the calibrators would need to answer this. I did find it a bit odd that he used a pro mode on the Panasonic vs. Pure mode on the Kuro. Why not use an ISF mode?
post #29306 of 30263
Those contrast ratios are awfully low, and from the (only) three 9Gs with "red tint" that I've seen, seem indicative of it as part of the overall rising black level. As saprano said... The rising black level (not the real "red tint") can happen so gradually that you don't really notice, but you sure do when you put it back to normal/new (or better).

I think the reviewer may have called it "normal" because it kinda happens a lot. I speculate it's largely because Pio's algorithm for adjusting for panel aging was too pessimistic, at least for the red phosphor. Or mistakenly set to age the red too quickly for certain panels (it's adjustable) as some have said. The problem is, once the panel has been "aged", you can't un-age the effect without resetting the whole panel, which then makes the whole panel seem "younger" than it really is which could also have undesired side effects down the road.
post #29307 of 30263
Quote:
Originally Posted by saprano View Post

Do you guys have any idea why TJN's measurements for his 141 is significantly different from 2009?

Here's his original measurement


http://www.hometheater.com/content/pioneer-elite-pro-141fd-plasma-monitor-measurements



And here's what he reported in his comparison with the ZT60


http://www.hometheater.com/content/panasonic-tc-p65zt60-3d-plasma-hdtv-test-bench



You think it's because of the red tint he's now starting to get? Which by the way, weirdly, he says is normal. He also says he has 3000 hours on his panel.

0.000/0.001 is a large jump to 0.0015.

I find it interesting that in the link for the pro-141, the CIE chart shows that it hit full saturation for blue. In every report that i have seen(including D-nice), i have never seen a kuro hit full saturation for blue. Blue always comes up a bit short.
post #29308 of 30263
Just wondering if anyone knows what’s the best brand and model of wall mount for the 141 & 151 that’s still available today thanks
post #29309 of 30263
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dust Bubble View Post

Just wondering if anyone knows what’s the best brand and model of wall mount for the 141 & 151 that’s still available today thanks
I have a Sanus VMPL3-B for my 141. I also am using a Sanus for my 5020 & have their 27U AV Rack. I am very happy with their products & would highly recommend them.
post #29310 of 30263
Quote:
Originally Posted by saprano View Post

Do you guys have any idea why TJN's measurements for his 141 is significantly different from 2009?

Here's his original measurement


http://www.hometheater.com/content/pioneer-elite-pro-141fd-plasma-monitor-measurements



And here's what he reported in his comparison with the ZT60


http://www.hometheater.com/content/panasonic-tc-p65zt60-3d-plasma-hdtv-test-bench



You think it's because of the red tint he's now starting to get? Which by the way, weirdly, he says is normal. He also says he has 3000 hours on his panel.

0.000/0.001 is a large jump to 0.0015.

No way is the red tint "normal"

Pioneer if had got to 10G would have come down on the red tint 9G's like a ton of bricks and sorted it out by whatever means. Goes against everything what the brand name "KURO" meant or means
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Plasma Flat Panel Displays
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Plasma Flat Panel Displays › The Official Pioneer 9G Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread