AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Plasma Flat Panel Displays › The Official Pioneer 9G Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

The Official Pioneer 9G Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 181

post #5401 of 28692
9/17/08 at 8:23pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ROMAN O View Post

They must be using an articulating mount maybe? But yea I agree thats a little too crazy for both if its a regular or tilt mount and HDMI cables. But you never know they might of got him/her a great deal on the 151 and it could be worth it.

Its actually a tilt mount from what i read on the paper.
Reply
Reply

Gear mentioned in this thread:

post #5402 of 28692
9/17/08 at 8:24pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by platinumpapi View Post

Its actually a tilt mount from what i said on the paper

Ok well you have our answers ST670 is the way to go
Reply
Reply
post #5403 of 28692
9/17/08 at 9:00pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ROMAN O View Post

Ok well you have our answers ST670 is the way to go

WHich website can i purchase it from?
Reply
Reply
post #5404 of 28692
9/17/08 at 9:06pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank J Manrique View Post

That's good news 'cuz been running the 151FD daily, watching mostly regular programming (95% in HD, and the rest in SD with the wide 1 mode selected)...sometimes 12 hours at a stretch.

Guess that am getting real close to the magic break-in requirement, eh?...

-THTS

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but 150 of break-in does not equal 150 of normal viewing since the colors and the contrast are all jacked up to maximum on break-in settings.

I wonder how long it takes to actually break-in watching normal programing on normal settings to equal the 150 hours of 'official' break-in via evangelo's DVD? 500 hours? 1000 hours?
Reply
Reply
post #5405 of 28692
9/17/08 at 9:12pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by PioBeer View Post

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but 150 of break-in does not equal 150 of normal viewing since the colors and the contrast are all jacked up to maximum on break-in settings.

I wonder how long it takes to actually break-in watching normal programing on normal settings to equal the 150 hours of 'official' break-in via evangelo's DVD? 500 hours? 1000 hours?

I've never seen any quantitative definitions of "broken in" versus "not broken in" televisions. If the state itself is not definable, you can't really prescribe what it takes to get there..... I still think this thread gets people way too uptight about this whole break-in thing. Just my .02 worth.
Reply
Reply
post #5406 of 28692
9/17/08 at 9:16pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by platinumpapi View Post

WHich website can i purchase it from?

http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=11118281&whse=BC&Ne=5000001+4000000&eCat=BC|79|2341|22121&N=4008255%204294965231&Mo=6&pos=8&No=3&Nr=P_CatalogName:BC&Ns=P_Price|1||P_SignDesc1〈=en-US&Sp=C&ec=BC-EC10605-Cat2341&topnav=
Reply
Reply
post #5407 of 28692
9/17/08 at 9:24pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by progprog View Post

http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=11118281&whse=BC&Ne=5000001+4000000&eCat=BC|79|2341|22121&N=4008255%204294965231&Mo=6&pos=8&No=3&Nr=P_CatalogName:BC&Ns=P_Price|1||P_SignDesc1〈=en-US&Sp=C&ec=BC-EC10605-Cat2341&topnav=

What brand is this, and how do i know that this mount is reliable?
Reply
Reply
post #5408 of 28692
9/17/08 at 9:26pm
progprog I would be very careful with that mount, did you test it out? Many dont work.
Reply
Reply
post #5409 of 28692
9/17/08 at 9:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by platinumpapi View Post

WHich website can i purchase it from?

Just google Peerless ST670
Reply
Reply
post #5410 of 28692
9/17/08 at 9:33pm
I am loosing hope on negotiating with these local dealers. Can one actually purchase a tv like the 151 and live with it with piece of mind?
Reply
Reply
post #5411 of 28692
9/17/08 at 9:35pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by progprog View Post

I've never seen any quantitative definitions of "broken in" versus "not broken in" televisions. If the state itself is not definable, you can't really prescribe what it takes to get there..... I still think this thread gets people way too uptight about this whole break-in thing. Just my .02 worth.

Amen, brother!...

-THTS
Reply
Reply
post #5412 of 28692
9/17/08 at 9:40pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by gus738 View Post

.....considering i have a HD DVR a xbox 360 elite (which is quieter then the pro and others) and i use my sound system normaly.

Gus, am I understanding this correctly?? Your 360 is quieter than the elite??? When I turn on my 360 is like I have one of those window installed air coolers on...
Reply
Reply
post #5413 of 28692
9/17/08 at 9:46pm
audioboy i wrote in a "does break in really make a difference or inprove picture" something along those lines its a few threads down... i'll edit this and post it once i find it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AuDiOBoY529 View Post

Can anybody here tell the advantages of breaking in a plasma for the first 100hours? I knows its optional. Does the blacks of the plasma set get deeper if you do? Any info would be nice. Thanks.

pio beer thats correct, his break in using disc or usb drive is 150hrs because of "accelerated" settings therefore his actual (lower contrast) settings takes longer to break in the tv. but really if your mix and matching then you broke the "ageing the phosphors" evenly so therefore that agenda isnt nessary to a T. as long as he mix and match its all good, i would say about a months time should be enough hours.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PioBeer View Post

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but 150 of break-in does not equal 150 of normal viewing since the colors and the contrast are all jacked up to maximum on break-in settings.

I wonder how long it takes to actually break-in watching normal programing on normal settings to equal the 150 hours of 'official' break-in via evangelo's DVD? 500 hours? 1000 hours?

platinum ; just do what i suggested, ask the avs sponsers see what they charged depending on which is closer to you. Also if your local dealer is lowest price then just dont buy the extra stuff


Quote:
Originally Posted by platinumpapi View Post

I am loosing hope on negotiating with these local dealers. Can one actually purchase a tv like the 151 and live with it with piece of mind?

ddgtr NO i was saying that my xbox 360 elite (black finish 120gb) is sopposed to be the most silent xbox 360 of the pack, and its very noisy so far from it

sorry if i explained it wrong... (better edit)

Quote:
Originally Posted by ddgtr View Post

Gus, am I understanding this correctly?? Your 360 is quieter than the elite??? When I turn on my 360 is like I have one of those window installed air coolers on...
Reply
Reply
post #5414 of 28692
9/17/08 at 9:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ROMAN O View Post

progprog I would be very careful with that mount, did you test it out? Many dont work.

I didn't Roman. I thought it was the Perrless "generic" version of the one you mentioned. Thanks for pointing it out if that's not the case.
Reply
Reply
post #5415 of 28692
9/17/08 at 9:52pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by progprog View Post

I didn't Roman. I thought it was the Perrless "generic" version of the one you mentioned. Thanks for pointing it out if that's not the case.

I guess someone can try it out but my bet is that it wont work But I can be wrong
Reply
Reply
post #5416 of 28692
9/17/08 at 9:57pm
Just a quick question thats way off topic. I have a Marantz SR8500 AVR that does not have HDMI but DVI-D. Would I be better off running say the PS3 via HDMI to the 151 and then the optical out from the 151 to the Marantz OR run the PS3 via HDMI adaptor to the DVI-D input on the marantz and then to the 151? I will only be running sat, OTA, Xbox 360 and a PS3.
Reply
Reply
post #5417 of 28692
9/17/08 at 10:42pm
the optical out from the Pioneer Kuros (and many other panels) only works for the internal atsc/ntsc/qam tuners. so run the Ps3 hdmi out to dvi-d in on the marantz or hdmi/hdmi to the Pro151 but you would still need to use the optical out to the marantz to get the SS to your avr no matter which option you choose.
Reply
Reply
post #5418 of 28692
9/18/08 at 6:33am
Quote:
Originally Posted by progprog View Post

Do you have any basis whatsoever for this opinion, other than the fact that you personally have never heard an excessively loud set?

I think there is a lot of evidence that an individual's hearing, home setup, ambient noise, and tolerance for the problem are just as important, if not more so, than individual set variabilty to determine whether someone believes the buzzing is a problem.

I realize that you believe the set variability is the reason because you have come to possess a set which seems improved over your first one. And there are other reports of similar circumstances as the population of people owning two Kuros increases.

My experience is having three sets in front of me at one time all with the same level of buzzing. Quite a different experience.

But there are many more reports of people continuing to be dissatisfied on subsequent sets if they are unhappy on the first one. Can you fish through several returns and find one? Maybe, but the odds aren't on your side. So if you are unhappy, move on.

People want to believe this is some quality control issue that needs to be fixed rather than a consequence of design features (no second glass, firing sequence) that are responsible for the beautiful picture produced by the Kuro.

I was told by a Pio engineer that the buzzing problem could be improved if the firing sequence was changed but probably would have bad effects for the picture. Shudder to think that maybe those non-buzzers might be modified in some way.

How about adding the second piece of glass?

Would those be acceptable solutions?

Not for me because the I see the great picture 100% of the time and only hear a buzz 1% of the time with normal content.

I think every potential owner has to weigh whether the buzz level is acceptable. But if you find it unacceptable, its very likely that your individual tolerance level will find the next Kuro you hear unacceptable.
Reply
Reply
post #5419 of 28692
9/18/08 at 7:41am
Quote:
Originally Posted by highheater View Post

I think there is a lot of evidence that an individual's hearing, home setup, ambient noise, and tolerance for the problem are just as important, if not more so, than individual set variabilty to determine whether someone believe the buzzing is a problem.

I realize that you believe the set variability is the reason because you have come to possess a set which seems improved over your first one. And there are other reports of similar circumstances as the populataion of people owning two Kuros increases.

My experience is having three sets in front of me at one time all with the same level of buzzing. Quite a different experience.

But there are many more reports of people continuing to be dissatisfied on subsequent sets if they are unhappy on the first one. Can you fish through several returns and find one? Maybe, but the odds aren't on your side. So if you are unhappy, move on.

People want to believe this is some quality control issue that needs to be fixed rather than a consequence of design features (no second glass, firing sequence) that are responsible for the beautiful picture produced by the Kuro.

I was told by a Pio engineer that the buzzing problem could be improved if the firing sequence was changed but probably would have bad effects for the picture. Shudder to think that maybe those non-buzzers might be modified in some way.

How about adding the second piece of glass?

Would those be acceptable solutions?

Not for me because the I see the great picture 100% of the time and only hear a buzz 1% of the time with normal content.

I think every potential owner has to weigh whether the buzz level is acceptable. But if you find it unacceptable, its very likely that your individual tolerance level will find the next Kuro you hear unacceptable.

One other variable would be if the set is being plugged into a power conditioner/surge protector device. I have mine connected to a good quality power cleaner/surge protector made by Transparent and I am also plugged into an upgraded a/c wall plug. I can barely hear any buzzing.
Mike
Reply
Reply
post #5420 of 28692
9/18/08 at 7:56am
Have you plugged the TV into the wall directly? Is there an increase in buzz? Right now I'm using an audiophile grade plug but no surge protector as I have a whole house protector. I believe I read that most people think power conditioners don't help, but I'd be willing to give it a shot.
Reply
Reply
post #5421 of 28692
9/18/08 at 8:32am
Quote:
Originally Posted by platinumpapi View Post

WHich website can i purchase it from?

Everytime I see a request for wall mount recommendations I always point them to the Peerless ST670. I have my 151 mounted on it. It is not a cheap flimsy POS. It is heavy and steardy and is very practical (easy to mount and gets secured with a hex screw from underneath). It was slightly above $100 and could be mounted to three studs. Here's the link from where I got it:

http://www.bestpricemounts.com/

At this link you just input the Plasma model number (I typed in the 150 because at the time they did not have the 151 loaded in the database yet). The wizard then gives you recommendations of the various mounts that would fit your TV. What's also cool is that you can get specs on the mount which gives you pictures, dimensions and weight limits, etc.

The mount has worked out perfectly and allows enough space in the back to connect my Monoprice HDMI cables (which I paid about $15 a piece by the way) without too much bending. Good luck!
Reply
Reply
post #5422 of 28692
9/18/08 at 9:21am
Maybe this is a crazy idea or it has already been tried, but here it goes: I am fascinated by the buzz phenomena. The biggest issue I see is how do we measure it? What is the difference between too loud/annoying and negligible?

So here's my idea: If someone could set-up a file, just like the break-in (white screen) but include a test tone that runs for say 1 minute. Using the TV volume (you would need the TV speakers to do this), each one of us can start at zero and start to increase the volume until you feel it is about as loud as the buzz. You then note the volume level (say "2" or "5" or God forbid "15") and report back to the forum. You would also need to state whether you consider the buzz as "negligible", "border-line annoying", "annoying" or unacceptable.

We can all then compare our findings and finally see if you have Bionic hearing or if you really have a problem. I see something like this as also very valuable when you have to argue with a dealer or Pioneer techs - you would have a good case if 20 people have a buzz at a volume level of "1" but yours is at "5". The key however is getting someone to create the "Buzz-level test file", which I know can be done.

Not perfect but I think this may help.
Reply
Reply
post #5423 of 28692
9/18/08 at 9:41am
[quote=gus738;14686230]audioboy i wrote in a "does break in really make a difference or inprove picture" something along those lines its a few threads down... i'll edit this and post it once i find it.


Thanks man I've found it.
Reply
Reply
post #5424 of 28692
9/18/08 at 9:57am
Quote:
Originally Posted by platinumpapi View Post

What brand is this, and how do i know that this mount is reliable?

The one I linked for you is the Peerless ST660 (Costco carries a variety of Peerless mounts), which is the the 37-60" version of the mount referenced in other posts.
Reply
Reply
post #5425 of 28692
9/18/08 at 10:13am
Quote:
Originally Posted by progprog View Post

The one I linked for you is the Peerless ST660 (Costco carries a variety of Peerless mounts), which is the the 37-60" version of the mount referenced in other posts.

How do know that its a peerles?
Reply
Reply
post #5426 of 28692
9/18/08 at 10:24am
First, let me qualify all of this by letting you know that I have little experience in the field of monitors. I am involved in broadcast TV field production, but I am not directly involved in the engineering side of the business.
I have a 151 that I finally had calibrated after a couple of months of break in. All of my viewing was in the "Standard" mode, which produces a sharp and contrasty picture...although not accurate, it was my choice of the modes offered. Pure mode seemed dull and soft to my eye.
During the calibration, it was clear to me that the calibrator was completely knowedgeable and I was convinced that the adjustments made, left me with a totally accurate picture. Here is my dilemma...again, to my eye, the picture seems dull, soft and at times, flat and lifeless.
Now, I know that I am seeing a compeletely accurate picture, however from what I'm used to seeing, there's no pop, no punch, no sharpness. In real life, things have sharp and definite edges or so I thought.
What I'm looking for is for someone to educate me in what I'm seeing so that I can truly appreciate what this newly calibrated 151 is giving me. Help me to see the light.
Reply
Reply
post #5427 of 28692
9/18/08 at 10:29am
if the 151 was properly calibrated you are seeing the standards of D65k kelvin (daylight) 6,500 kelvin. the higher the number the clooer (blue) the tv is, the lower the number the the warmer it gets (red) and d65k is netrual.

that puchy look must be from lcd feel that extra sharp is edge enhancement.

what mode did he calibrate? did he do Isfccc or pure mode? (behind isfccc pure is the most accurate)

Quote:
Originally Posted by darita View Post

First, let me qualify all of this by letting you know that I have little experience in the field of monitors. I am involved in broadcast TV field production, but I am not directly involved in the engineering side of the business.
I have a 151 that I finally had calibrated after a couple of months of break in. All of my viewing was in the "Standard" mode, which produces a sharp and contrasty picture...although not accurate, it was my choice of the modes offered. Pure mode seemed dull and soft to my eye.
During the calibration, it was clear to me that the calibrator was completely knowedgeable and I was convinced that the adjustments made, left me with a totally accurate picture. Here is my dilemma...again, to my eye, the picture seems dull, soft and at times, flat and lifeless.
Now, I know that I am seeing a compeletely accurate picture, however from what I'm used to seeing, there's no pop, no punch, no sharpness. In real life, things have sharp and definite edges or so I thought.
What I'm looking for is for someone to educate me in what I'm seeing so that I can truly appreciate what this newly calibrated 151 is giving me. Help me to see the light.
Reply
Reply
post #5428 of 28692
9/18/08 at 10:51am
Quote:
Originally Posted by platinumpapi View Post

How do know that its a peerles?

Because it's listed under the "Peerless Mounts" section. If you go to Costco's site, and navigate to Electronics>Televisions>Mounts>Peerless, you'll see the Peerless offerings, including that one. You can also find the same mount at Amazon, if you want to compare:
http://www.amazon.com/Peerless-Unive...1760212&sr=8-1
Reply
Reply
post #5429 of 28692
9/18/08 at 10:56am
when i do the exact steps you say it doesnt have name brands it just shows all mounts, are you watching a diffrent link beside us? like .ca for canada?

Quote:
Originally Posted by progprog View Post

Because it's listed under the "Peerless Mounts" section. If you go to Costco's site, and navigate to Electronics>Televisions>Mounts>Peerless, you'll see the Peerless offerings, including that one. You can also find the same mount at Amazon, if you want to compare:
http://www.amazon.com/Peerless-Unive...1760212&sr=8-1
Reply
Reply
post #5430 of 28692
9/18/08 at 10:58am
Quote:
Originally Posted by darita View Post

Now, I know that I am seeing a compeletely accurate picture, however from what I'm used to seeing, there's no pop, no punch, no sharpness.

Then clearly your calibrator did not access the ISF memories (modes) that your 151 is capable of unleashing If this was done via the only software that is capable of activating the ISF mode(s), which I believe is Cal Man, then I can assure you that you would get all the POP, PUNCH, and DETAILyou should ever want while giving you the most accurate picture possible on your 151. Was this calibrator reputable or ISF certified?
Reply
Reply
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Plasma Flat Panel Displays

Gear mentioned in this thread:

AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Plasma Flat Panel Displays › The Official Pioneer 9G Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread