The Official Pioneer 9G Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 188

Originally Posted by ptipa

Thanks for confirming what I've been saying all along.

Originally Posted by PARASITE

Are you getting brighter whites at 42ftl. Honestly does the image look too hot at that high of light output?

My 1150 was at 37ftl which I thought looked great even in the daytime. If you increase the light output to higher then say 37ftl without clipping or overdriving the panel, would you get an increase in black level?

Would this higher dynamic range have an impact on shadow detail?

Lastly if isfccc is still using the same cms, how are you able to get closer color points?

Is the more accurate color just because of a better grayscale?

I agreed to let Jeff use my tv as a guinea pig to try all this out on. I wouldnt mind brighter image in the daytime, just so I could open a few windows, but at night there is no way I want to stare at a 42flt unless it wouldnt hurt my eyes or effect the image quality.
Ah feels good to have something to talk about again on these boards!

Originally Posted by turbe

I believe Jeff will give you the option, ISFccc or Pure... which way do you think you are going to go (or perhaps both)?

Originally Posted by PARASITE

Jeff is going to be doing a few before he gets to me. If he can verify the improvements of isfccc, especially the ability to go higher then 30ftl, then its a no brainer I will go with isfccc, one for day and one for night. Just out of curiosity are most lcd displays you see at the store around 50ftl, or higher? Trying to get a feel for bright that is.

Originally Posted by D-Nice

If you have not seen and compared Pure mode vs and ISF mode on a 9G Elite, you are doing nothing more than speculating on what you assume. I now have information from my Pioneer contact and had a forum member experiment with one aspect of the differences between Pure and the ISF modes yesterday. There is a difference and there is data to prove that difference from multiple sources.

And please, don't attempt to compare the 8G ISFccc profile to the 9Gs profile. They are completely different.....specifically on the 8Gs, the ISFccc modes are carbon copies of Pure mode and use the same firmware encoded offsets.

Originally Posted by ptipa

You don't have to convince me of anything. It's the calibrators who have told some of us of their findings. If you have valuable data to contradict their advice, present it to them. You may very well be right and as I stated in an earlier post, I'd be interested in seeing data on a side by side comparison.

Originally Posted by ptipa

You don't have to convince me of anything. It's the calibrators who have told some of us of their findings. If you have valuable data to contradict their advice, present it to them. You may very well be right and as I stated in an earlier post, I'd be interested in seeing data on a side by side comparison.

Originally Posted by D-Nice

LCDs in stores routinely go beyond 80fL.

Originally Posted by PARASITE

Would running a 151 at 42ftl increase the possibility of image retention?

Originally Posted by NYC Guy

Is the Energy saving mode on the 111FD the same as the Power saving mode you have listed as "off" in your breakin settings? If not, where is it located?

If I am playing a Blu-ray movie is it ok to use Zoom for the screen size if it is a 2.40:1 aspect ratio during the 150 hour breakin period?

Also when playing Blu-ray movies that are being transmitted in 24 FPS is it ok to use the 111FD's Pure Cinema mode that triples the signal during the first 150 hours?

Is there a significant difference in the picture after the 150 hours between Elite Kuros when you use the breakin disc as opposed to those that don't use it and are doing normal viewing like I am ?

When my speakers are delivered by Robert in about 10 days (special order) and everything is connected to the VSX-01 THX receiver, will the HD DVR cable box signal pass through the VSX-01 THX receiver if the power is turned off to the 111FD? There will be programming where I just want to listen to the 111FD's speakers and not the big Polk's I have on order and still get a picture though my HDMI cables going in and out of the receiver without having to turn the receiver on? If not, what do you suggest for the necessary wiring connections to achieve this?

Originally Posted by NYC Guy

First of all I want to sincerely thank you for your many posts that I have read. They were very helpful and sincerely appreciated by a newbie in plasmas like me.

I did all of your settings and have a few questions.

Is the Energy saving mode on the 111FD the same as the Power saving mode you have listed as "off" in your breakin settings? If not, where is it located?

If I am playing a Blu-ray movie is it ok to use Zoom for the screen size if it is a 2.40:1 aspect ratio during the 150 hour breakin period?

Also when playing Blu-ray movies that are being transmitted in 24 FPS is it ok to use the 111FD's Pure Cinema mode that triples the signal during the first 150 hours?

Is there a significant difference in the picture after the 150 hours between Elite Kuros when you use the breakin disc as opposed to those that don't use it and are doing normal viewing like I am ?

When my speakers are delivered by Robert in about 10 days (special order) and everything is connected to the VSX-01 THX receiver, will the HD DVR cable box signal pass through the VSX-01 THX receiver if the power is turned off to the 111FD? There will be programming where I just want to listen to the 111FD's speakers and not the big Polk's I have on order and still get a picture though my HDMI cables going in and out of the receiver without having to turn the receiver on? If not, what do you suggest for the necessary wiring connections to achieve this?

Originally Posted by PARASITE

Jeff is going to be doing a few before he gets to me. If he can verify the improvements of isfccc, especially the ability to go higher then 30ftl, then its a no brainer I will go with isfccc, one for day and one for night. Just out of curiosity are most lcd displays you see at the store around 50ftl, or higher? Trying to get a feel for bright that is.

Originally Posted by progprog


Many recievers will not pass through an HDMI signal when they are off, and even in the ones that do (as a function of the HDMI control system), it tends to be quirky and more trouble than it's worth. Here's the common solution, which I use as well. Run the HDMI from your STB directly to the Kuro, and run optical out from the STB to your receiver. This way, you can get TV audio through the full surround setup when you want it that way, but also just through the TV when that's what you want. (When using audio through the receiver, you'll need to mute the TV.)

Originally Posted by NYC Guy

I really won't know if it passes through the signal until the speakers are delivered. In addition to your solution is their any advantage and improvement to either the video or audio if I run two different connections from the DVR?

#1 - either HDMI or component cables for the video from the DVR to the Kuro and also optical from the DVR to the receiver for when the receiver is not turned on.

#2 HDMI from the DVR to the receiver and then HDMI from the receiver to the 111FD for when the receiver is turned on.

Will something like this work and also serve a purpose or will one override the other?

Originally Posted by gregdpw

hey where do i attach the zip ties for the color sensor on the back of the 151?

Originally Posted by platinumpapi

Without the speakers what is the length and hight of the pro 151fd?

Originally Posted by platinumpapi

lol, im not too good with those demensions, so basically 57 wide, and how about the hight?

Originally Posted by Saturn94

After going back and forth between the 151 and 141 (also the Panasonics), reading and re-reading countless posts, agonizing over "would I get a buzzer" and such, I finally broke down and ordered a 151!

Hopefully I'll have good things to post when it gets here. Then I'll have to read and re-read countless posts on how to get the best out of it!

Thanks to all here who have helped with this process.

Originally Posted by scooper750

Myself & D-Nice have already showed the 151FD will exceed 30 ftl in ISFccc mode. But feel free to get confirmation.

Originally Posted by progprog

The first scenario is what I described in my previous response. It does involve running two different connections from your DVR. The optical out to the receiver is the second connection, but it's for when the receiver IS turned on- it wouldn't be doing anything when the receiver is off. Maybe I'm not understanding exactly what you're asking here....

The component vs HDMI from STB to Kuro question could be significant, though. Many users have found that when a source signal changes resolution, for example when your STB changes channels or goes to commercial, there can be an annoying lag when using HDMI. Sometimes this is accommpanied by video flashes and audio clicks that drive many people nuts. Using component usually resolves much if not all of this switching delay. The other solution, which is the one I use myself, is to have the STB do all the upconverting. I have my TiVo output everything at 1080i.

Originally Posted by NYC Guy

I think where I was headed in my first scenario (I'm not sure myself ) is whether I am losing anything doing optical vs. HDMI for the audio connection from the DVR to the receiver? Ideally the signal will pass through the receiver and it will be a moot point.

When the installer from Value Electronics was here yesterday he switched the output on the DVR from 720p to 1080i.

Originally Posted by progprog

Turbe,

All this talk is essentially about dynamic range of brightness. right? You guys are talking about getting a very wide range on the Kuros without distorting colors, etc.?

For those of us that need to use PowerSave Mode 2 to mitigate our panel buzz, does this whole conversation become moot? My set is basically unwatchable to me with PowerSave off, so would it even be worth it for me to get this type of calibration?

Originally Posted by gregdpw

when you mount the 151 and you run the cables in the wall. do you use the holes in the middle of mount or should you just cut a hole a few inches below the mount for the cables? cuz with the peerless st670 if i go through the holes in the middle of the wall plate i will have to then run the cables downward in order to plus them into the tv. would it be a better idea to just run the cables stright up?