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Official REL Subwoofer thread... - Page 2

post #31 of 762
Thread Starter 
No matter what design of speaker or subwoofer is used, there will always be some sort of compromise. Performance? Size? Cost? Something has to give. With all the brilliant minds in this industry, if there was a way to have a subwoofer perform with ruler-flat frequency response @ 125dB, with the physical size of a Bose jewel cube for $99, every other manufacturer would be out of business.

Agreed that if anything is used within its design constraints it should perform properly. However, from time to time, I'm sure we're all guilty of pushing some sort of product or service beyond its design constraints.

This reminds me of the race car-building world. Nitrous, superchargers, turbos or N/A engines all have their pros and cons. Some guys are diehard Nitrous junkies, while others swear by forced induction and some guys experiment with all combinations to find what works best for them.

I did not say "every other passive radiator design on the planet". I said "lots of times". I'm sure we can all agree that it would be quite easy to throw a plate amp, some sort of box, a woofer and a passive radiator together all ordered from Madisound and make it work for cheap. But how would it really perform?

Welcome to the world of compromise.
post #32 of 762
My main theater room is about 3500 cubic feet - which includes a vaulted ceiling running from 8 feet to 16 feet. The high end of the room opens on one end to a 2-story hallway as well as a second story balcony. I am running a set of bi-amped Kappa 8's, which are about 17 years old, as the mains. 75% music / 25% home theater.

I auditioned a B1 - not in my home - seemed like too much; I also auditioned a B3 - it came up a bit short for my taste. So, that's why I am thinking of a B2.

Alternatively I am thinking of an Outlaw LFM-1 EX for a whole lot less money or a SVS 20-39 Plus - still a lot less than the B2 but more than the Outlaw sub. I have had several folks tell me to get the cylindrical SVS sub, and I will not be disappointed.

Seeking input and advice.
post #33 of 762
Quote:
Originally Posted by rasmaxwell View Post

My main theater room is about 3500 cubic feet - which includes a vaulted ceiling running from 8 feet to 16 feet. The high end of the room opens on one end to a 2-story hallway as well as a second story balcony. I am running a set of bi-amped Kappa 8's, which are about 17 years old, as the mains. 75% music / 25% home theater.

I auditioned a B1 - not in my home - seemed like too much; I also auditioned a B3 - it came up a bit short for my taste. So, that's why I am thinking of a B2.

Alternatively I am thinking of an Outlaw LFM-1 EX for a whole lot less money or a SVS 20-39 Plus - still a lot less than the B2 but more than the Outlaw sub. I have had several folks tell me to get the cylindrical SVS sub, and I will not be disappointed.

Seeking input and advice.

The cylinder subs take up less floor space, that's the main difference. If you are open to suggestions, there are both box subs and cylinder subs that should satisfy you. Some people don't mind a 39 inch cylinder, others prefer a shorter box sub. Even the $600 SVS PB-12 NSD has gotten good reviews with its new driver and amp. The PB-12 NSD would at least equal the Outlaw LFM-1EX. Given the size of your room the 20-39PC Plus seems like a good way to go. Have you spoken to anyone at SVS? They won't oversell you.
post #34 of 762
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rasmaxwell View Post

My main theater room is about 3500 cubic feet - which includes a vaulted ceiling running from 8 feet to 16 feet. The high end of the room opens on one end to a 2-story hallway as well as a second story balcony. I am running a set of bi-amped Kappa 8's, which are about 17 years old, as the mains. 75% music / 25% home theater.

I auditioned a B1 - not in my home - seemed like too much; I also auditioned a B3 - it came up a bit short for my taste. So, that's why I am thinking of a B2.

Alternatively I am thinking of an Outlaw LFM-1 EX for a whole lot less money or a SVS 20-39 Plus - still a lot less than the B2 but more than the Outlaw sub. I have had several folks tell me to get the cylindrical SVS sub, and I will not be disappointed.

Seeking input and advice.

When you auditioned the B1 and the B3, were they in the same room, (Or similar sized rooms)? If not, that coupled with something as simple as different volume settings could change the outcome. For example, maybe the B3 just needed another click or 2 on the volume knob. (?)

Can your local REL dealer demo one or more units in your home for you? That may help you make your decision. What's nice is that Rel's have always been known for seamless integration to mains which is one reason they are preferred by so many 2-channel folk. That, plus the ability to easily add more of them as your system grows and absolute top-notch build quality make them great all-around performers.

Speak to your dealer and see if maybe he could swing by and demo them in your home. It should be fun and you may find that a B3 will do just fine.
post #35 of 762
I had a demo of the B1 and B3 in the same room at my local dealer - and in the same physical position within the room, as I asked for such.

The dealer told me that he had just attended a Sumiko training class, but it appeared that he had trouble dialing in both of the subs. Neither sounded particularly impressive with either music or movies. I also listened to the R505, and to me it sounded considerably looser and less clean than either the B1 or the B3. Did not like it at all. I am not looking for slam with a sub, but I do want depth and clarity with music, as well as some sonic authority with a 5.1 DTS movie sound track. We were using an Integra 8.8 to drive some mid size Focals for the mains. The room was 14x14 and well damped with a sofa as well in the room center about 8 feet back from the sub in the left corner of the room out about 2 feet from the back wall. Thinking that the over square, damped room did not help.

With a B2 going for 2 large plus, I am having some trouble justifying the performance and quality differential versus say a SVS PB12 Plus, 20-39 Plus or an Outlaw LFM-1 EX.

FYI - thinking of replacing my mains with Ohm Walsh 200 MKIII's. I have the Ohm Micro Walsh Talls in my small den - unbelievably good sound! I heard nothing that could touch them under 2 large per pair.
post #36 of 762
Thread Starter 
It sounds as though there was a problem with the setup of the units, rather than the units, themselves. I'll be the first to admit that the proper setup on these can be picky, so perhaps they just weren't dialed in properly. Each room can be different. But, 2' out from the corner sounds a bit too far imo. Also, as the manual suggests, the orientation of the sub can also have an impact on the performance. IMO, to properly demo both subs in the same room, in the same corner of that room, 2 separate setups should have been performed, which can take some time switching from sub A to sub B. Rather than if both subs were sitting side-by-side and A-B switching between them. How were they demo'd to you?
post #37 of 762
The B1 was placed in the corner and supposedly dialed in. The B1 was then disconnected and moved to a rear corner of the room. The B3 was put in its place and supposedly dialed in. Ditto for the R505. The R505 was the weak sister by a good margin - some of which was probably due to the not-so-good Class D amp.

I provided feedback to the dealer rep as he was trying to dial it in.

Assuming that the B2 is dialed in correctly - I have high expectations for a $2k+ sub. Is this sub going to meet my expectations for great music and authoritative DTS playback? That is literally the $2K question.
post #38 of 762
Quote:
Originally Posted by rasmaxwell View Post

The B1 was placed in the corner and supposedly dialed in. The B1 was then disconnected and moved to a rear corner of the room. The B3 was put in its place and supposedly dialed in. Ditto for the R505. The R505 was the weak sister by a good margin - some of which was probably due to the not-so-good Class D amp.

I provided feedback to the dealer rep as he was trying to dial it in.

Assuming that the B2 is dialed in correctly - I have high expectations for a $2k+ sub. Is this sub going to meet my expectations for great music and authoritative DTS playback? That is literally the $2K question.

You have every right to have high expectations at over 2K. There are lots of good choices. With that kind of budget, I would be looking at the J L Audio F 112. People with extensive experience with a variety of subs have found the F 112 to be superior. Flexibility in blending in with a wide variety of mains seems to be a strong point of the F 112.
post #39 of 762
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rasmaxwell View Post

The B1 was placed in the corner and supposedly dialed in. The B1 was then disconnected and moved to a rear corner of the room. The B3 was put in its place and supposedly dialed in. Ditto for the R505. The R505 was the weak sister by a good margin - some of which was probably due to the not-so-good Class D amp.

I provided feedback to the dealer rep as he was trying to dial it in.

Assuming that the B2 is dialed in correctly - I have high expectations for a $2k+ sub. Is this sub going to meet my expectations for great music and authoritative DTS playback? That is literally the $2K question.

Ok...I'd see if the dealer could schedule an in-home demo for you. Regardless of which manufacturer you decide to go with, toys in this price range should perform well. The problem with your dealers demo could have even been a problem with how the room was constructed, (who knows?). Which, no matter what sub was running in there, it could have given poor results. Having it setup at your home with your gear would be the most realistic test drive possible.
post #40 of 762
Thanks for everyone's feedback. I have decided to turn away from the potential purchase of an REL B2. When you are looking at subs north of $2k, the dealer should nail the demo and know how to dial in a sub in their own listening room. The dealer should also offer an in-home demo without the customer asking for such, if the customer is serious about a potential, big bucks sub purchase.

Lastly, I reached my limit on high price coupled with "made in China" for a premium AV brand. Seriously, a large number of premium AV brands are making very healthy margins by using "made in China", and I for one am becoming disgusted with this trend. If this is the path that the AV brands want to follow, then your prices are out of line. I have noticed a significant decline in the build quality (and weight of AVR components in particular) since about 2001. AVR brands putting out gear with "issues" is a whole 'nother topic.
post #41 of 762
Got some Rel questions

Thinking about putting together a system with the Dynaudio new Excite line
x32 fronts.........x22 center......42sats for sides and rear
what model do you suggest ........room is 14x31x8....with an opening into the
hallway to the back of house...do you think the b3 in enough for room
also what is the dif between b3 and b2 besides 100 watts I guess what I mean is
difference in sound.........thanks in advance for any advice
post #42 of 762
Thread Starter 
Randy,

Looks like a very nice system, so far. The differences between the B3 and B2 other than the amplifier is that the driver on the B2 has a bit more stroke and a bit beefier basket (frame). The cabinet for the B2 is also larger with a larger port outlet on the bottom. So, the B2 is just scaled up a little bit over the B3. These changes will give the B2 not only more output, but a bit more extension.

Usually what I suggest is that if you are on the fence, and you don't have a strict budget, just err towards the larger model, (it can't hurt ). It also looks as though Dynaudio and the REL B Series have very similar veneers so that will also be a nice match!
post #43 of 762
Thanks kwkshift for the quick replay
just a couple more questions ............
I understand about 2ch setup but for HT I was wondering how I would run the b2
since my sides and rear on go down to 85hz and my center to 58hz what would I set
my crossovers to on the low pass.......would I set speakers to large with no sub and
crossover to 80 and let all low go to mains and sub or set speakers to small and let
sub handle all the speakers below 80
thanks again
post #44 of 762
hello everyone,

before today I didn't even know there is a REL dedicated forum on AVS.
I have been asking around unsuccessfully so far, and I hope to get some sort of feedback here.

I have a question about REL Studio III: I don't plan to use a REL sub through speaker level connection (its a long story), I need to connect the sub through low level. Now, I know that Studio goes cleanly down, so it seems anyway, but would it perform as well when crossed at 60 or 80hz? Would it reproduce those upper frequencies as they should be reproduced? Did anyone experienced such a set up?
Thank you
post #45 of 762
Thread Starter 
BD1300: Are you referring to the crossover on the B2, itself? Or are you referring to the settings in the receiver/ processor? I have my speakers set as large, subwoofer 'yes'. Then you'll have to set up the B2 to mate up to where your mains roll off at. It takes some time to set them up, but they are a true set-and-forget piece of equipment so it's worth the time invested.

Orologio: The Studio will do just about anything you ask it to do. What speakers do you have for mains?
post #46 of 762
My mains are the VA Mahlers. They go low but in my listening room, because of positioning, lthe subs would have a flatter FR.
post #47 of 762
hey kwkswift it looks like your online
my question was I got how the 2ch is hooked up high pass and letting the b2 do the
bass management with there crossovers plus i would put my arcam 350 in direct mode
and take all digital out of pic and run pure stereo to mains and crossove down low
since mains go down to 37hz.................

now what I'm not sure about is the hometheater part.. my sides and surrounds only go
down to 85hz and center to 58hz so in 5.1 mode would i use the low pass to let
receiver to bass management ...........and would i set crossover to 80 because of
center and surrounds and with the receiver set to fronts large with no sub
receiver would send all bass below 80 hz to front speakers which in turn would
kick in the b2 below its crossover so mains and sub would be handling all bass below
80...............or if i set receiver to all speakers to small then all bass below 80 would
be sent to b2 using lowpass and sort of taking the high pass out of picture
is that correct and would 80 be a good crossover because the center and surrounds
dont go down that low......i hope that makes sense if i sort of have this right do you
think 80 is a good crossover for center and surrounds
post #48 of 762
sorry about all this typing but i pressed the button before i reread what i typed
i meant to say set front to large and center and surrounds to small with no sub
and let fronts get full signal and all bass from center and surrounds below 80 would
go to mains which in turn would use b2s crossover...meaning mains would handle mid
and upper bass till it got low enough for b2 to take over ............or

is the better way to go is set front to large and center and surrounds to small
with sub and let anything below 80 from the center and surrounds go straight to sub
and do you think 80 is to high or to low for center and surrounds
thanks for all you patience I'm just an old 2ch guy trying to get into hometheater
and still have a nice 2ch sound

and the way it sounds don't set all speakers to small and use 80 hz crossover

once again thanks for all your help and patience
post #49 of 762
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by orologio View Post

My mains are the VA Mahlers. They go low but in my listening room, because of positioning, lthe subs would have a flatter FR.

I'm sure you could set your crossover in your processor to 60 or 80Hz and have phenominal results. You could also tie in the REL at the back of the speakers, to the high-level input, too. I'm obviously not familiar with your setup but that may be another option, as well. If you could do that, you could also look into a pair of Stentors, one for each Mahler. (?) A set of Mahlers and a Studio?
post #50 of 762
Thread Starter 
Randy: The REL's can perform "double duty" so that's where you may be confused. For surround sound, you would just connect up the LFE RCA cable to the "Low Level" input on the sub just like any other sub. Then, your setup in your receiver/ proc. would be similar to any other surround setup with the bass management active and you can set your crossover to 80, if you like or whatever sounds best to you. There is no hard-fast rule about this stuff, as so many people make it out to, imo. We're not disarming bombs or curing cancer, so feel free to try different settings, different speaker/ sub positions seating positions, etc. until you get it set up where it sound good to you.

I strongly suggest reading through the manual: http://www.sumikoaudio.net/rel/manua...ies_manual.pdf as it will help you become more familiarized with the setup procedure and they even list a demo CD in there to help you along.

Hopefully that answered your questions. If you have any others, feel free to ask.

Greg
post #51 of 762
Quote:
Originally Posted by kwkshift View Post

I'm sure you could set your crossover in your processor to 60 or 80Hz and have phenominal results. You could also tie in the REL at the back of the speakers, to the high-level input, too. I'm obviously not familiar with your setup but that may be another option, as well. If you could do that, you could also look into a pair of Stentors, one for each Mahler. (?) A set of Mahlers and a Studio?

Thanks for your suggestions. I have one stentor already, and unlike what Sumiko says, by connecting a REL through high-level in my room it results in cancellation where the port of the mahler meets the sub above 20hz. Meaning when I switch the sub's phase from 0 to 180 I get cancellation either below 25hz or above that. But never a smooth transition. To me there is a bad phase interaction. I am no expert, but this is what happens in my room and that is the reason why I can't use high level.

Are you surpriced by the Mahler - Studio combo , why?
post #52 of 762
Thread Starter 
Ahh, I see. So as it sits now, with your existing Stentor connected via the high level input and the crossover in your proc. set where it needs to be, does it perform to your liking (other than just needing more output from the sub)?

Not suprised, more impressed than anything. That would be a nice setup, I'm sure.
post #53 of 762
Glad to find this REL forum.

I've been using a older Stadium II for some years now without any problems hooked up to my old Adcom amp. The old Stadium II does not do .1 sub channels, it's only designed for music.

Ok, fast forward to today. I went out and bought a Pioneer SC-07 receiver (that has a Class "D" amp). I'm now told NOT to have my old Stadium II hooked up to it UNLESS I use a very particular wire called a "High Level Digital Cable". I'm also told I was lucky to not have white smoke coming out of my audio equipment while having it hooked up with the old three wire connection (Red, Yellow, Black).

This REL "High Level Digital Cable" is available from REL for what I'm told is about $130. And I would still only use it for the main (high level) two channel output not the .1 sub channel with my current old Stadium II.

From what I understand, it has everything to do with how Class D amps "ground" or don't "ground". This "High Level Digital Cable" is suppose to have three wires, and one of them would have the old RCA connector to be hooked up to ANY unused RCA input on my new Pioneer SC-07 receiver...that being the way it provides "ground" and would make it safe to operate.

I'm told even if I connected a RCA type connection on the black wire of my current "regular" three wired cable, and hooked it up to any unused RCA connection on the back of my SC-07 amp, it would not work in the same way.

I'm getting mixed signals. One sales person says (from another company) it's all marketing hype, and another says (from another company) not to use my Stadium II at all till I have it hooked up correctly. Does anyone know if this is "marketing hype" or something I should really be concerned about. Currently my Stadium II sits unconnected and will continue to do so till I really find out what's going on. I want to be on the safe side.
post #54 of 762
I'm now thinking in addition to my old Stadium II sub bass system, I would like to get one of the new (what I like to call) the B1 Bomber! I'd like to get the B1 for the .1 channel and have my old Stadium II hooked up to the mains (front left and right). I think how it works (in how I would like to hook it up) is while a movie is on, the Stadium II would only be used as a sub base system for the two front mains while the B1 would be used only for the .1 signal.

The Pioneer SC-07 has a feature (I would like to use) that allows the .1 output channel to also be used as a pass through while listening to regular 2 channels sources (CD etc). In this way, I would be using two REL subs at the same time. I would wonder however if the B1 could ever be as musical as my older Stadium II as the B1 is "probably" designed more for movie .1 very high level bass.

I'm only questioning this as "made in China" has made one salesperson (from a totally different company) say that my older Stadium II is a better built sub bass system.

Thanks for everyone's input!
post #55 of 762
Are you sure that your sub cannot be connected hi and low level in the same time? I thought that is the pride of RELs. I can't help you in regard to the cable but I am starting to wonder the same thing as more and more amp's on the market are class d. Did you contact Sumiko? Let us know your findings, please.
Regards
post #56 of 762
Thread Starter 
Thebarnman, I'm working on finding an answer for you regarding connecting your Stadium to your new receiver.

As far as the B1 vs/ the Stadium comparison is concerened, the B1 is built like all of the other REL's I've seen... Built like tanks with no excuses. I run a B1 and I have it serving double-duty with my .1 LFE connected and the high level Speakon tied to my mains. You have a couple of options for connectivity of the 2 different subs depending upon your room layout and existing gear that we can go over.
post #57 of 762
Quote:
Originally Posted by orologio View Post

Are you sure that your sub cannot be connected hi and low level in the same time? I thought that is the pride of RELs. I can't help you in regard to the cable but I am starting to wonder the same thing as more and more amp's on the market are class d. Did you contact Sumiko? Let us know your findings, please.
Regards


Wow, I'm impressed, you guys are good! Not that I'm too surprised. I've been on these boards for over five years now. It's always interesting who I run into.

It was Kendra from Sumiko who told me to unhook my Stadium II from my Pioneer SC-07 (class "D" amp). After what she had told me (about the grounding issues) I was worried that I may have caused damage not only to my Stadium II, but also to my new Pioneer SC-07 receiver. She told as long as I did not see "white smoke" coming from my equipment, I'm probably fine.

She was very serious as to how my Stadium II was being hooked up to the new receiver so that's why I'm being very cautious about this. She seemed very informed. So informed, at one point I asked her if she was a engineer. That's when she told me she was the head sales rep.

She said when I order the cable, I needed to stress the word "Digital" within the description "High Level Digital Cable". Otherwise I might end up with the wrong cable. She gave me a number to a company in Tempe AZ to call to order the cable, however when I called, the number was disconnected.

By the way folks, when I discovered all of this, it was Christmas Eve. I was simply very lucky to get a hold of ANYONE that afternoon. Luckally for me, I had only had my new Pioneer SC-07 receiver for only about a couple days and may have only operated it with the Stadium II for maybe about a couple hours at the most.

I will say, when the Stadium II was switched from my old Adcom amp to the new class D receiver, I noticed almost right away that the Stadium II was outputting at a MUCH lower level. I did not think much of it at the time as I was thinking it probably had to do with the differences in electronics with the new receiver. I then turned up the volume control on the Stadium II so the level could be about the same as it was when it was hooked up to my older Adcom amp. However the reproduction from the Stadium II did not seem the same. It did not seem very musical. It really was not producing a smooth low frequency response. It seems "choppy"...or "stressed". What ever the description, it did not seem to play effortlessly like it did when it was hooked up to my Adcom amp.

Still, I did not think much of it as it was a new receiver and I have not even set up all the parameters (distant settings, audio levels, small big speaker settings etc). The only reason I called Sumiko was to search out a REL dealer in my area to buy a 2nd sub for my system.

The reason I was looking for a 2nd sub is because when I had UMR out to my home to do a Video and Audio calibration, he noticed a low frequency hump in my room. He mentioned getting a 2nd sub could help smooth things out. He also mentioned that the 2nd sub would not have to be very big, it could be used simply to help smooth out the low frequency "hump" in my room. Sooo, in my attempt to find a REL dealer in my area, I called Sumiko and ended up with Kendra. That's when all hell broke loose!

Kendra was great. She educated me about my Pioneer SC-07 and it's D class status and why it was so important to "ground" the Stadium II properly. Explained why using my "old" wires for the Stadium II was not a good idea (with the SC-07) and why it was so important that I get this "High Level Digital Cable".

I finally found a dealer in my area called "Artisan Cinema" in Scottsdale. When I described the "High Level Digital Cable" and my conversation with Kendra, they were fascinated and wanted to learn more. They understood about proper grounding however were not sure how a "High Level Digital Cable" would work. They finally found the cable from REL so at least that's set. Still, I have not ordered anything till I really learn what's going on.

Then I get a call from another sales person (and I won't say where, however it was in my area) who made the remark about the "High Level Digital Cables" calling it "Hype" and "Marketing" and that the cables I currently have would work. But then I start to question what does this guy really know?

Kendra seemed really knowledgeable and was really wanting to point me in the right direction.

My problem with this whole situation is if Class "D" amps are more common now than they used to be, I would think the whole matter of proper connection to a REL using a Class "D" amp would be much more common knowledge with everyone and not a few privileged in the "know".

Unless of course, this is a fairly new situation that people need to be educated about. And so it's probably a good thing I'm posting about this situation. I'm sure we will get to the bottom of this issue and when it's over, at least it will be a reference for those with REL and class D amps.
post #58 of 762
Quote:
Originally Posted by orologio View Post

Are you sure that your sub cannot be connected hi and low level in the same time? I thought that is the pride of RELs. I can't help you in regard to the cable but I am starting to wonder the same thing as more and more amp's on the market are class d. Did you contact Sumiko? Let us know your findings, please.
Regards


Sorry Orologio, I did not answer your first question! Image that. I got so caught up with what's going on, I forgot!

First, my Stadium II does have a high and low level input. Actually, it even has another input, but I won't go there.

However, about hooking up my Stadium II to a Hi and Low level at the same time. This is a older REL sub bass system that was designed ONLY to be used as part of a music system, not a movie system. (This is what I've been recently told)

After further research, I learned that my Stadium II does not have the "extended" area for the "driver" to travel while producing low frequencies at higher levels. If I try to use the Stadium II for .1 signals, doing so will "bottom" out my low frequency driver as it tries to reproduce explosions and that sort of thing at higher levels.

I understand that the NEWER RELs are designed to help reproduce music (when using regular two channel audio like a CD etc) and then switch automatically to a .1 signal when a movie is being played (DVD, Blu-ray etc). I think that's where using Hi and Low level connections at the same time come into play.


I even questioned Kendra at Sumiko about using my Stadium II for both (music and movie reproduction) since my Pioneer SC-07 receiver has a function allowing a subwoofer to be hooked up to the .1 connection and it switching automatically between low frequency info (while listening to CDs) and then to the .1 signals while watching movies. That's when I was informed, that

A: My Stadium II is not designed for .1 signal reproduction

AND

B: My old three wire connection with my new Pioneer SC-07 (Class D amp) could harm my equipment because of a grounding issue.

You could say I really learned a lot about REL on the 11th hour on Christmas Eve! It's a mind blower for sure, however something I feel could be very important for everyone to know if more people end up with a Class D amp.

Another thing I would like to share is when I originally bought my Stadium II, I was never educated about the fact that this particular sub bass system was never designed for .1 audio. Then again, Dolby Digital was JUST coming out (that's how old my Stadium II is) and so it's possible that the sales person who I bought this from was never informed about the differences. Plus, the Stadium II was never deigned with .1 movie signals in mind. It's strictly a music system. Not a bad thing after all. The newer RELs are designed with .1 signals in mind.

Another mind blower? I was also told that when my Stadium II was designed, Dolby Digital was not even around (at least for home reproduction) and therefore, never considered in it's design.
post #59 of 762
Quote:
Originally Posted by kwkshift View Post

Thebarnman, I'm working on finding an answer for you regarding connecting your Stadium to your new receiver.

As far as the B1 vs/ the Stadium comparison is concerned, the B1 is built like all of the other REL's I've seen... Built like tanks with no excuses. I run a B1 and I have it serving double-duty with my .1 LFE connected and the high level Speakon tied to my mains. You have a couple of options for connectivity of the 2 different subs depending upon your room layout and existing gear that we can go over.

Hi,

Thanks for all your help. It will be interesting to see if your idea of hooking up the black wire (of my current REL Red, Yellow and Black wire) to the phono ground on my new receiver would work in the same manner as if it was a "High Level Digital Cable". After all, that IS a ground.

Of course, we won't do anything to "test" this out till we hear back from the people at Sumiko. If getting this "High Level Digital Cable" is the only solution when connecting a REL to a Class "D" amp, we should make it a prominent post so others can act accordingly, prevent damage and achieve better performance from their equipment.
post #60 of 762
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thebarnman View Post

Hi,

Thanks for all your help. It will be interesting to see if your idea of hooking up the black wire (of my current REL Red, Yellow and Black wire) to the phono ground on my new receiver would work in the same manner as if it was a "High Level Digital Cable". After all, that IS a ground.

Of course, we won't do anything to "test" this out till we hear back from the people at Sumiko. If getting this "High Level Digital Cable" is the only solution when connecting a REL to a Class "D" amp, we should make it a prominent post so others can act accordingly, prevent damage and achieve better performance from their equipment.

Agreed.
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