Official REL Subwoofer thread... - Page 11

According to the specs my Dynaudio BM6P's go down to 43Hz @±3dB. So a roll off of B5 should be okay with the REL.

Just for the heck of it, I tried to run a bass test on my main speakers while turning the B1 off.

Then I noticed something: My dynaudio's seem to peak @ 33Hz and produce a lot of 'sound/pressure' from 30 - 40Hz when I am either in the front of my room (my current listening position since they are nearfield) or the back of my room. They are at least 25cm (if not more) away from the back wall.

I don't have any dB/SPL meter, but I tried it with a dB meter app for my iPhone, and the 33Hz tone is measured @ 75dB while the 43Hz tone measures 65dB.

Could the weird peak of my main speakers be the cause of the problem?

I will try to get rid of the peak first, since the pressure my main speakers make in the 30-40hz range isn't very pleasant (read: it sounds very boomy). I'd rather have the B1 to produce these tones.

After that I will try to follow the setup manual using test tones and my own ears to determine the crossover frequency, instead of the numbers on paper. I'll be sure to share my results.

Thanks for the help so far.

Well, I couldn't remove the peak in my current set up (there is no other way for me to place the speakers differently). I took your advice to set the crossover lower. I decided to set it to B-2 (which is almost ridiculous considering my main speakers are bookshelves with 6.5" woofers). Then I almost doubled the gain.. and WOW! The bass goes incredibly low (I listen a lot of 'electronic' music with very low frequencies).

But something amazed me even more then just the earth shaking bass: Parts of music that don't contain any real bass at all, sounds a lot more spacious and clear.

I am still thrilled with how good it sounds! I can't thank you enough for your advice! I will probably fiddle a bit with the crossover and gain the next few days.

I will try to give the Quake II in the HT room the same treatment.

I'd like to connect two T5 subs to Denon AVR-4311 (9.2ch receiver).

If I could, I want the 2 subs to be connected to both the high level input and the .1/LFE phono interconnect for stereo and home theater use. If possible, for high level, I want the 2 subs to be extension of left and right main speakers, and for LFE connection front main & center channel.

How do I accomplish connecting the two T5s to the 9.2ch receiver both ways, please? What other cables and/or connectors are needed beside the supplied Neutrik Speakon cable?

Thank you very much in advance!

Michael

Please bear with me, and can you elaborate? That is, this will be my first time dealing with subs.

FYI, Denon AVR-4311 has two sub outputs: SW1 & SW2.

1. For LFE connections, should SW1 output of the receiver be connected to T5(1st) and SW2 to T5(2nd)? Should I connect the subwoofer output of Denon to ".1/LFE Input" or "Low Level Input" of T5? Do I need a digital audio coaxial cable something like the below to connect the T5s to the Denon receiver?

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

2. For high level input, how do I sum the red and yellow leads of the high-level cables? Do I need some kind of "Subwoofer Y-Splitter" to sum the red and yellow leads?

Sorry about asking too many basic questions. HT setup is still foreign to me. So, even though I am going to get Geek Squad to setup everything for me, I should be able to purchase right parts/materials, to say the very least, before their arrival. Who knows if the Geek Squad people are not so familiar with REL T5 connections?

Anyway, you wrote "One T5 would connect to the right speaker terminal and the other would connect to the Left. The black lead would still get connected to the - terminal like normal". Aren't the right and left speaker terminals already in use, having connected to main speakers? I've been looking at the back of the receiver to find clues, but to no avail.

Thank you very much in advance!

Michael

You will want to connect SW1 to the ".1/LFE Input" of the T5. It seems likely that you can connect SW2 to the other sub, I'd have to read the manual for your receiver to be 100% sure. The cable you linked will do this well. You don't have to use coax but for any run more than about 6' it's a good idea and it never hurts.


By sum he simply means connect together. You don't need any extra cables to do this as you can put all the wires on one of the terminals on the back of the receiver. So in this configuration you will have the wire that goes to the speaker and both the red and yellow wires from the high level cable connected to the positive (red) terminal on the back of the receiver. A bit of care has too be taken to make sure all the wires are captured securely and make a good connection but it shouldn't be too hard. If you use a banana plug for the speaker connection then it gets a bit easier since then you only have to get two wires in the lug part of the terminal. If you're not familiar with the style of terminal the plastic colored (red for the positive terminals) part screws up and down so one can put wire(s) under it and then tighten it to secure them, the center post that the plastic part surrounds has a hole in it for a banana plug connection. Hope this clears things up for you some.

hi michaelhryu,

where do you purchase the T5? how much did you pay for it?

how is it? do you like it?

thanks

I purchased them at AudioVision in San Francisco and paid $499 each, total of $1,092.81 including 9.5% sales tax. Their phone number is 415-614-1118; ask for Tom or Randy, please.

In fact, I haven't opened the boxes yet, waiting for the Geek Squad people to open them for me. This indicates how experienced I am when it comes to HT setup and such, and why I keep asking basic questions.

By the way, I was told by a Sumiko representative that T3 would be discontinued soon, and that T5 would in effect replace T3 and its price would be increased. So, it looks as if you would need to grab T5 at current price as soon as you locate one.

Michael

Hello all
I originally asked this question in the 2 channel forum but figured putting it in the Rel thread might get me some new answers

I am running a NAD 3400 integrated amp (200W) to a pair of Snell J/III speakers ($1400 per pair in 1989, Power Rating in Watts: 15-150 Frequency Response: 48Hz-20kHz Impedance: 8 ohm Sensitivity: 91 dB) . Source is either a cable box or an Oppo-BDP-83.
I was interested in upgrading to a home theater set up but found that they sound horrible (for music at least in my price range). I probably play the system 50/50 TV and movies/music, but I was always more interested in a great music sound experience (I’ll often watch TV / movies with just the TV speakers on). The warmth and sound accuracy I get from my current set up is something I do not want to lose. I mostly listen to Jazz and Blues with some Rock, Electronica or Acid Jazz thrown in. To increase the movie experience I purchased a Simaudio moon dac100-d and use the optical cable from the TV to the dac and then regular rca’s to the NAD’s video connection rca’s. I am now interested in getting some more bass.

The room is 16x22 carpeted 8 ft. ceilings, the TV and stereo is set up in the long direction so I sit approx. 12 feet from the TV with the 2 speakers 2-3 feet away on each side of the TV making approx. 16 ft. to my listening position. However, I don't actually have access to the corners, when facing the TV on one side there is an “L” stair going down. The left main is in this corner up against the railing figure about 3 1/2 feet to each wall. The right main is actually in front of a wall unit against the right wall and a closet door at the back wall. The wall unit cannot be moved as it will then block a window. I was hoping to put the sub either under an end table or somewhere in between the L/R mains behind the TV. Behind me is a similar story there is a 3 ft. walking space behind the main listening position and then a full height wall unit filled with books.

The store I got the dac from recommended a Rel T3, my budget is currently $600 -$800 (all included, cables etc.) but I would go up to $1000 if the sub was worth it.
Is the T3 large enough for this space (approx. 2800 sq. ft.)? I am more interested in music than HT. By the standards of many on this forum my Snell J/III’s aren’t powerful enough and yet they sound incredible. So I need to know is the T3 the right choice or go to a T2 or T1 or something completely different?

Please help, Thanks

jerryo,

I have a similar size living space with a similar layout and I have a Rel B3 sitting in the left corner when viewing the TV. I find that the B3 produces adequate enough bass for my tastes for both music and movies. I have the gain set about 35-40%, I could go higher but that setting produces sufficient enough low end fill for both music and movies for my tastes. The one weakness in my setup/layout is that for some music I can really hear that the bass is heavier on the left than it is on the right. I imagine a second B3 would be ideal.

All that said, I'm not sure if a T3 on it's own would be enough for that size room. Would suggest you consider a T1 at minimum or a pair of T3 possibly.

Hope that helps.

Due to the very limited feedback for the G1, thought i'd share .

In the process of breaking in mine...set at 80hz to get the woofer moving during 1st 24hrs but spectacular at 30hz. Probably one of the single most impactful additions to my system (aside from my mains). Very seamless/transparent...visceral but very quick. The remote makes tuning effortless (that is, once you set the brute in it's sweet spot). Had to check it was actually on several times as it never draws attention to itself...but turn it off and, like i said, very evident the impact.

Only draw back is ironically the remote capability...adjustments can only be made via the remote...no hardwire adjustments available.

Fit/finish is stunning. Auditioned Velodyne & JL Fathom 113 but none side by side. For music, REL hands down. For everything else...because you have best of both worlds (HI Pass/LFE)...I'd still take the REL.

I am wondering how it compares to other REL subs, since the G1 seems to be quite different when it comes to shape and woofer material. I am still happy with my B1, though I wish it had a nice remote and I wish I had a larger room to make it breath. I had to bring the gain and crossover down even further since I got my Dynaudio Confidence C1's.

This place needs more love for REL subs hehe.. I am still wondering what the T5 sounds like compared to the old Quake2.

T5 sounds alright to me. For LFE, it performs quite well for its size. I have no way of comparing it to Quake2 because I've got no experience with the latter.

By the way, can I connect a T5 to one of the rear speakers using Hi-Level SpeakOn cable, rather than a speaker termianl on the receiver? That is because the SpeakOn cable does not reach the receiver.

I have a Quake2 in my own HT setup and it works great for music and does a great job when it comes to LFE. The bass that comes out of that small box is simple amazing, though at higher volumes it starts to fall behind the main speakers. I was wondering if the T5 could give this little extra performance (and it looks gorgeous )

Just a question: my B1 doesn't seem to have much output below 27Hz, even at the sweetspot in the room. I was wondering what kind of room is needed to go down to the specified 13Hz?

Looks like Rel updated the R-series

My dealer has 2 of them (12's) hooked up to a pair of JBL Everest II's...yes, the massive Everest II's. Very impressive considering the room was about 7000 cu/ft. Paired with the smaller B&W 802Di's in a 2000 cu/ft room, much better. Aesthetically, very impressive as well.

They were the R-528's

Out of curiosity, I opened the Speakon Connector last night. And I discovered that only the black wire was connected to a long needle-like pin, but the red and yellow wires not connected to any point. I was wondering if the red/yellow wires were also supposed to be connected to somewhere.

Could anyone please help me reassemble the Speakon Connector? What harm could be done if incorrectly-wired Speakon cabe is used with a REL sub?

Thanks a lot! I might have to take it to the dealer, though.

I have two Rel T2. One for each fronts. This is for stereo. I removed the stock Black/Red/Yellow wire and replace it with a regular 6ft 12AWG speaker wire. One wire goes to where the original black terminal was connected in Speakon. The other wire goes to where the Yellow wire was connected. The terminal which originally has the Red wire is just left empty. Some previous post says use the stock wire and join yellow and red wire together. But I don't want to use the stock wire. What is the effect of letting the red terminal empty? Is there a difference with my simpler connection of just the yellow and black terminal of speakon? I don't want to open Rel to find out the inside connection but I'm assuming that red and yellow line are just connected as one inside the sub. However, if the red terminal has a separate role, then I will just put a jumper from Yellow to Red terminal before closing the speakon connector (just to get a signal to the red terminal). Thank you to anyone with a definite answer.

I need settings recommendation for my REL Strata III please. I placed it at the corner and a couple foots away/behind the front speakers.
The manual is too complicated for me to understand :-)

What settings do you have?

I am running the REL Strata III with the Yammy A2000 receiver; two VA mozart grands, Maestro and two haydns.

Thanks