Official REL Subwoofer thread... - Page 13

I'm setting up a small home theater room where I can't place individual speakers, so I had to get a soundbar (Yamaha's big 47" wide ysp-5100). The soundbar has an automated calibration microphone setup that detects the presence of your subwoofer and then integrates the sub with the soundbar. Yamaha wants the sub preset to a default medium volume level and the crossover to the maximum (120 hz on the T-7) before you start the calibration. Also, the soundbar will be communicating wirelessly (with no signal compression) to the subwoofer via a special adapter into which the sub is connected via RCA cable.

So, which Rel T-7 RCA input do you use with the soundbar: Low Level Input or .1/LFE Input? I assume that the soundbar calibration results in the sub being used for both the LFE channel in movies plus any speaker frequencies below the soundbar's lower end range of ~75Hz.

Thanks in advance to anyone who can help me on this one!

Has anyone bought the REL T9? I haven't seen much mention of it on AVF....I need a sub and I'm going between the T9 and a Rythmik f12se. I'm looking primarily for a clean musical sounding sub, but I obviously watch movies as well.

The REL doesn't have near the frequency extention compared to the F12.

I have listened to the REL at the local store, but obviously I can't audition the f12.

Mains: B&W CM8
Center: B&W CM Centre 2
AVR: Rotel RSX 1550

Thanks!

I have a T-7. I am thinking about trading it in for a T-9. I use the T-7 for music only, but at that it excels.

Hi, has someone heard both the G2 and B2? I would like to know how they stack up against each other

Does anybody knows what size of spikes I need for the T7 subwoofer?
I have tried Atacama M8, but they are too thin to fit the hole.

REL recommends not to use spikes if you don't really have to.

I have a T-7, but don't know what size the spikes are. They are bigger diameter than I normally see for speakers.

I think that I need to try it with spikes. I have some unpleasent vibrations from my floor - laminated parquet.
I have tested before T2 that comes with spikes on the same place and there was a little improvement.

If you have vibration problems you might try using Sorbothane. You can get it at reasonable prices if go to Amazon and avoid the audiophile repackaging.

You mean to use this bumpers under the subwoofer's legs?

I would try that. You said there was only little improvement with spikes. These are designed to help with vibration problems. I can't promise they will solve your problem, but they are cheap enough to take the chance they will. On the other hand, they might solve the vibration problem, and change the sound of the sub for the worse. It's just something to try.

Hi, I have cm9 tower and cm centre2. My room is 26 ft. by 14 ft. Is the rel 328 enough for the room or should I be looking for a different rel? New to the board and would appreciate input.

I recently upgraded from a REL Strata III to a R-328. The 328 is a great sub and has lots of output. My room is much smaller than yours ( 16 x 14 ), but I have the volume set at 9 o'clock and adjusted -4db in my processor to match my main speakers. Even at this setting you can really feel the low notes when the movie or music calls for it. It is a significant upgrade over the older Strata III, but I can't say how much better a R528 would be over an R328.

Hi Fi + reviewed the R328 in their January issue. If you can find a copy of that it could be interesting

I need some advice. I'm thinking of getting a pair of REL T2's. They fit my budget, but I'm not sure if they fit my room.

I have a fairly large kitchen/dining/living room combo. The dimensions are 37' x 18' with a cathedral ceiling that runs the length of the room peaking at 15'. The living room takes up a little less than half the room. I'd estimate the entire room's volume is ~6000-6500 cu. ft.

Since this is my living area I have a limited number of locations where I can place the subs. I've read that the RELs can be picky about where they are located. I'm hoping that having two will mitigate this issue.

I have a Denon 4311 and I'm planning on adding a pair of Epos Epic 2s to go with the RELs. I'll probably add a center later for a 3.2 system. My primary listening concern is music, but the system needs to be able to work well for movies, too.

Any advice would be appreciated as I am fairly new to this. Thank you.

I have CM7, which is a step down from CM9. I have a similar-sized room. I have a Rel R-218, and it is definitely "enough". If I were to do something more, I would get a second one and run them in stereo.

I just tried to measure the power consumption my Rel Serie R-218 demands when it senses no input.

It seems to be about 50 Watts. It also runs warm to the touch when idle.

I was under the impression in should be about 1 or 2 Watt.

Is this normal?

I guess not. It is now a paper-weight.

Hello, Just joined this forum looking for some advice.

I am connecting up a REL Quake Sub to a Marantz Amp (SR4400 - quite old but still working ). I am using the high level Neutrik connection. Wired up the Neutrik connector as follows :

+2 : Right Channel Speaker positive
-2 : Left Channel Speaker positive
-1: Right Channel speaker Negative

connect the bare ends to the speaker outputs as above.

Connect and power on - all ok, no bangs.

PLaying first CD and the level of the music from the left channel is very quiet.

I have hi-fi test CD ( from the UK Hi-Fi News and Record Review magazine ) that gives a stereo check. A male voice speaking in the following positions.

1. Full Left 2. Half Left 3. Centre 4. Half Right 5. Full Right and find that even the full left is coming from the right speaker???

I tried disconnecting the Neutrik connect from the Sub and everything is fine - normal stereo restored.

Can anyone advise / confirm that I have the wiring for the Neurik connector correct. The REL manual doesn't give guidance and I got the above from a another forum.

Any help much appreciated.

Simon

could someone help explain to me the hierarchy of the REL subs ?

http://www.rel.net/index2.htm

Based on the above site, TOTL is Gibraltar, then Reference, R Series, and lastly, T Series. I use a couple T-3s myself

m looking for a sub for music and read many places that REL is great for music. Seems the "Serie T" and "T Series" will be within my budget.

Can someone explain me the difference between these 2 ranges... Is one series designed for Music and the other for HT....?!?

The T3 from "T Series" is priced $ 598 and T5 from "Serie T" is priced $ 699

http://www.sumikoaudio.net/rel/prod_t3.htm

http://www.sumikoaudio.net/rel/prod_t5.htm

Both within $ 100 of each other and then the T2 from the "T Series" is priced $ 798. So you can see i'm a bit confused here...

Reference is still top of the line. Gibraltar has much lower MSRP then Reference.

May i request you to expand on that a bit....

1. What are the design/technology changes in the new new Serie T over the older T Series ?

2. What improvements have been made in the new series as far as the sound goes ?

3. In what ways has the Sound changed with the new Serie T ?

4. Is the older T series T1,2,3 still in production and how long will they be available for purchase ?

5. Does the T5 replace T3 ? The T7 replace the T2 ? and the T9 replace the T1 ? Would that be correct...?

As you can see i'm a man of details and i'll really appreciate your detailed reply on this.

Warm Regards.

This would be a good discussion to have with your dealer, or via an email to the REL or their distributor.

I have a pair of Serie T-7. I don't have answers to your questions, but you might do some reading on their website. That might answer some things.

Question: I am trying to integrate my REL Strata II sub into my HT setup, with an Onkyo TX-NR709 running as a pre-pro.

Should I connect the Speakon cable and the line-level inputs and then run Audyssey?

Currently I'm running with only the line-level inputs connected, but I'm wondering if the sub would integrate better with the Speakon (high-level) input connected as well?

Thanks,
Ken

Does the phase adjustment pertain to the high-level connection, the LFE input, or both?

I'm about to purchase an REL T5. It will be hooked up to an Onkyo tx-nr709 to complete a 5.1 system. The cable run will be about 25'.

Aside from the supplied 'Neutrik Speakon' cable, what other cable do I need to purchase? I would prefer to purchase this cable at monoprice.

Thanks in advance for the advice.

A high quality subwoofer/RCA/digital coax cable for your ".1" or LFE signal.

Is this what you are talking about?

Thanks.

Yes, that would work fine. That's what I used to hook up my REL Strata II.

No need to spend more on a chi-chi cable.