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Official REL Subwoofer thread... - Page 17

post #481 of 732
anyone use an Anti-mode 8033 C/S or 2.0 with their REL?

obviously, you'll not use the REL high level inputs anymore, so you'll manually find the crossover point
post #482 of 732
Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceTripper View Post

I brought home a R328 to try out this afternoon (as a possible replacement for my T-7). My speakers are rated down to 35 Hz. If I set the REL crossover to 35 Hz (or higher), I loose definition in the midrange and the bass is slightly too boomy (a recording of J.S. Bach's Toccata and Fugue for organ exposes that pretty quickly). I have the R328 at 30 Hz right now. It sounds really good. I was just playing some Renaissance music, with a lot of plucked strings and not much bass, but when I turned the REL off the soundstage dropped out and sounded flatter, less three-dimensional. Then I put on Charles Mingus, "Mingus Ah Um" and when Mingus is picking the bass really quickly I can hear every note very distinctly. The T-7 didn't seem to be able to keep up as well.

I really like what I am hearing so far. The R328 might have to stay home with me. smile.gif

I bought the REL R-328 today, trading in my old T-7. I really like the improvement. It sounds so much better and brings a improved overall balance to my speakers and room. This is an unplanned upgrade but I'm glad I did it.
post #483 of 732
Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceTripper View Post

I bought the REL R-328 today, trading in my old T-7. I really like the improvement. It sounds so much better and brings a improved overall balance to my speakers and room. This is an unplanned upgrade but I'm glad I did it.

Congrats. Sub woofers are so tough to buy from price and specs. You have to try in your room. With the exponential price jumps in the REL family it makes choices even harder.

I am itching for a second r218 now.

Looking at the DAC as my next upgrade. But now I am Thinking a second sub and a valued DAC upgrade is better improvement than a more expensive DAC.
post #484 of 732
All I have left to do now is upgrade my phono stage and I'll feel like I'm in the sweet spot of the range for all my gear. There's nothing else I really desire changing. smile.gif
post #485 of 732
Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceTripper View Post

All I have left to do now is upgrade my phono stage and I'll feel like I'm in the sweet spot of the range for all my gear. There's nothing else I really desire changing. smile.gif

how nice a phono stage are you looking at? there's some Simaudio 310LP selling for just over $1k used that I came across.

I'm eyeing the Simaudio 300D as my "valued" DAC. The limitation on the USB for high resolution keeps prices down. The 300D and another R218 should be killer next upgrade. Better than just getting the Chord QuteHD DAC for the same money.

I do notice in my room the one R218 definitely is not ideal for dispersion, but I've got it pretty good in the sweet spot.

Dynamics sure are an addictive addition.
post #486 of 732
Quote:
Originally Posted by poopiehead View Post

how nice a phono stage are you looking at? there's some Simaudio 310LP selling for just over $1k used that I came across.

I'm eyeing the Simaudio 300D as my "valued" DAC. The limitation on the USB for high resolution keeps prices down. The 300D and another R218 should be killer next upgrade. Better than just getting the Chord QuteHD DAC for the same money.

I do notice in my room the one R218 definitely is not ideal for dispersion, but I've got it pretty good in the sweet spot.

Dynamics sure are an addictive addition.

I have the Musical Surroundings Nova Phonomena and have heard the Sim 310LP. The latter is not a big improvement, unless you add the $1500 external PSU to it.

I am thinking more in the $2500-3000 range, perhaps a tube phono preamp, like the Fosgate Signature v2 or similar.
post #487 of 732
Here's a nice review from SoundStage Magazine on the R-328. It does a good job of setting it up correctly, and the reviewer discovers some of the benefits of integrating a sub in two-channel system that go beyond the reproduction of bass notes. When I first auditioned a REL sub, my wife became convinced about getting one when I turned it off while playing the Bach Partitas and Sonatas for Solo Violin.
Edited by RaceTripper - 6/23/13 at 4:13pm
post #488 of 732
Can't agree more. The REL's make your main speakers transform into huge floor standers, it's almost as if it mimics the quality of your main speakers. Thats mainly because REL doesn't focus on stuff like 'slam' or 'high Q' to give the feeling of more detailed and louder bass. Even the smallest REL's produce pure low deep bass. Not something that pressurizes your ears, but a bass you experience.
post #489 of 732
All this discussion about owners not knowing the optimal settings for blending the bass highlights my frustration. I've been a Rel owner for years. I have a Storm III. My stereo speakers low range is 38 hz at -3 dB. I have the Storm roll-off frequency set at 34 hz. Is that optimal? Not sure. Does it sound good? I guess, but my only reference is to listen until it becomes "boomy." I just moved it to 34 hz from 32 hz to see if I can tell a difference. So far, I can't.
post #490 of 732
so with the speakon connection, the front speakers run full range and are simply buttressed by the REL? Or can the fronts be cut, say at 50, and then the REL low-passed at 50?
post #491 of 732
With Speakon your speakers run full range and the REL will pick up the exact same signal as the main speakers. In general the results with the Speakon connection seems a lot better then just cutting it off using a LFE channel.

Setting it up high level is a big pain though, since you have to find the crossover point yourself, keeping in mind that neither your main speakers and the REL don't just cut off at a certain frequency, but they roll off. Then there will be the problem of room modes that will introduce huge peaks and nulls in you bass response, which will be determinded by the size of your room (mostly the lengt). In my case my main speakers are spaced at 45Hz, but their response peaks at 33Hz due to my room. Therefor the REL is crossed at 28Hz. The best way to solves kind of problems is investing in room treatments that will avarage out the peaks and nulls. EQ's won't really solves these problems, because peaks and nulls can go as far as + 30dB. Recently I've installed just 4 bass traps in the corner resulting in a lot more clarity.

The hardest part about the high level setup is getting the phase right. This is because the REL and main speakers have a part where their signal overlaps. If the phase isn't the same, the bass response in the area will be poor and the Integration won't feel seemless

Doing this by ear is hard (nearly impossible). I am think about getting myself a measuring mic to solve that.
post #492 of 732
I tuned it by specs on the main speakers. I figured, some day, I'll have an enlightenment and tune it properly with tools. it'll be like another upgrade. At this point, very happy with the results and cannot wait to save up for another R-218 smile.gif

I have bigger fish to fry in my upgraditis. DAC first and then another REL. Then enjoy the system as is for another 4-8 years. saner heads must prevail. I spent my dining table money on my stereo this time. Cannot live with a folding plastic table for my guests for ever...hahahaha biggrin.gif
post #493 of 732
I hope I am posting my question in the right place here and apologies if not, but I do need some help. I am about to replace my current receiver with a Denon AVR-1913. My current set up is: Pioneer VSX-1020, 6 Definitive pro800s, a Definitive Pro 1000 for center and REL T3 Sub with Neutrik and .LFE both connected. T3 location and settings are optimized for my room per REL instructions. I have never used Audyssey set up before. Should I connect Neutrik before running Audyssey or after? Also should I use the settings I made when adjusting the REL to my room per the REL instructions, such as volume and crossover setting, or change to settings suggested in Denon manual for Audyssey set up? Finally, if Audyssey ends up setting my speakers to small, do I need to override and change to large to get the advantage of Neutrik connection. My goal: my current connection and settings work GREAT for movies and I don't want to loose that sound! Thanks very much.
post #494 of 732
Quote:
Originally Posted by miketh54 View Post

I hope I am posting my question in the right place here and apologies if not, but I do need some help. I am about to replace my current receiver with a Denon AVR-1913. My current set up is: Pioneer VSX-1020, 6 Definitive pro800s, a Definitive Pro 1000 for center and REL T3 Sub with Neutrik and .LFE both connected. T3 location and settings are optimized for my room per REL instructions. I have never used Audyssey set up before. Should I connect Neutrik before running Audyssey or after? Also should I use the settings I made when adjusting the REL to my room per the REL instructions, such as volume and crossover setting, or change to settings suggested in Denon manual for Audyssey set up? Finally, if Audyssey ends up setting my speakers to small, do I need to override and change to large to get the advantage of Neutrik connection. My goal: my current connection and settings work GREAT for movies and I don't want to loose that sound! Thanks very much.

When running the REL HI-level, you MUST run the front speakers in full range and run the receiver in stereo mode to set it up the HI level connection. Else it won't be working. You should see the HI-level as an extension of your front speakers. Make sure you setup up the HI-level connection the best way possible (like stated before: don't setup the REL based on specs of your main speakers. Usually you can cross it lower because of room gain and both the REL and the main speakers roll off, not cut off). After that you can start the Audyssey setup.

I've never bothered with the Audyssey stuff. I think my AVR also came with a mic.


Anyway something else:
I just got my 4 bass traps almost a week ago. I have to say I am impressed with the results of just 4 bass traps in the corners. The bass actually became louder and I had to set the crossover (27Hz) and the gain (9 o clock) even lower. The bass response overall is much flatter throughout the room. Besides better bass response, I also gained a lot of clarity and detail in the upper ranges. This is probably due to less ringing and less sound wave reflexions interfering with the signal.

It looks something like this:


The beast:


I can strongly recommend to look into room treatments. The improvement compared to the price is hard to beat with any other equipment upgrade.
post #495 of 732
Thanks, I had never heard of a bass trap but will look into them
post #496 of 732
Quote:
Originally Posted by miketh54 View Post

Thanks, I had never heard of a bass trap but will look into them

Try looking for GIK or Realtraps. Both have great info and some videos about room treatments.
post #497 of 732
I would like to preface this by explaining I get VERY nice base with my current setup. The only thing I wish to change is when I watch a movie I want to feel like I am in the middle of the explosion rather than the explosion being forward of me so my thought is to place a subwoofer on either side of the sofa.

I just had an interesting conversation with a Rythmik representative discussing my room and my desire to achieve a more fuller bass. I am contemplating purchasing a second T-9 and placing them both next to the sofa and maybe a R-528SE behind the television (where the T-9 is now) or possibly keeping the T-9 in its current location and looking into a pair of Rythmik D15SE's. http://www.rythmikaudio.com/D15SE.html
The Rythmik rep in SoCal made some profound statements I do not necessarily agree with such as:
using a high level connection is like double amplifying the sound since your tapping off from the speaker output, amplified and the sub has its own amplifier causing phase issues and distortion.
use the subwoofer output (LFE) from my Integra, allow Audyssey to set the crossover on the REL to approx 80 Hz and dont use the high level connection at all.
a front firing sub vs a down firing sub makes no difference other than cosmetics.
the REL T-9 may play to 30 Hz but at a low db level.
the Rythmik is pretty flat down to 14Hz.
a 3 db increase is like doubling the sub volume.

These are just a few comments I found controvercial. The way I understand is the high level connection is only using millivolts of power so ther is no "double amplification" going on. Further since your tapping off the speaker output terminals the subwoofer physicly must be in phase with the main speakers since they are both receiving the same signal. Also my Paradigm Signature S2's are rated down to 52 Hz so I set my REL's crossover to about 45 Hz and its very musical. Sounds awesome!
Am I off here, missinformed or did I talk to someone who knows more or less than I? rolleyes.gif

What I would like is to discuss in detail my room, set-up and what I'm attempting to achieve with no bias to any specific brand.

Below is a scale diagram of my room followed by photographs showing what the room accoustics are like. The numbers in the diagram are decible levels from the subwoofer in those locations with the microphone placed in my "sweet spot" in the middle of the sofa. The microphone stayed in the one location and I moved the subwoofer around the room.

05-25-2013 06;25;00PM.JPG 1045k .JPG file 007.JPG 260k .JPG file 008.JPG 258k .JPG file 011.JPG 257k .JPG file 012.JPG 258k .JPG file 013.JPG 261k .JPG file
post #498 of 732
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Oldschool View Post

I would like to preface this by explaining I get VERY nice base with my current setup. The only thing I wish to change is when I watch a movie I want to feel like I am in the middle of the explosion rather than the explosion being forward of me so my thought is to place a subwoofer on either side of the sofa.

I just had an interesting conversation with a Rythmik representative discussing my room and my desire to achieve a more fuller bass. I am contemplating purchasing a second T-9 and placing them both next to the sofa and maybe a R-528SE behind the television (where the T-9 is now) or possibly keeping the T-9 in its current location and looking into a pair of Rythmik D15SE's. http://www.rythmikaudio.com/D15SE.html
The Rythmik rep in SoCal made some profound statements I do not necessarily agree with such as:
using a high level connection is like double amplifying the sound since your tapping off from the speaker output, amplified and the sub has its own amplifier causing phase issues and distortion.
use the subwoofer output (LFE) from my Integra, allow Audyssey to set the crossover on the REL to approx 80 Hz and dont use the high level connection at all.
a front firing sub vs a down firing sub makes no difference other than cosmetics.
the REL T-9 may play to 30 Hz but at a low db level.
the Rythmik is pretty flat down to 14Hz.
a 3 db increase is like doubling the sub volume.

These are just a few comments I found controvercial. The way I understand is the high level connection is only using millivolts of power so ther is no "double amplification" going on. Further since your tapping off the speaker output terminals the subwoofer physicly must be in phase with the main speakers since they are both receiving the same signal. Also my Paradigm Signature S2's are rated down to 52 Hz so I set my REL's crossover to about 45 Hz and its very musical. Sounds awesome!
Am I off here, missinformed or did I talk to someone who knows more or less than I? rolleyes.gif

What I would like is to discuss in detail my room, set-up and what I'm attempting to achieve with no bias to any specific brand.

Below is a scale diagram of my room followed by photographs showing what the room accoustics are like. The numbers in the diagram are decible levels from the subwoofer in those locations with the microphone placed in my "sweet spot" in the middle of the sofa. The microphone stayed in the one location and I moved the subwoofer around the room.

05-25-2013 06;25;00PM.JPG 1045k .JPG file 007.JPG 260k .JPG file 008.JPG 258k .JPG file 011.JPG 257k .JPG file 012.JPG 258k .JPG file 013.JPG 261k .JPG file

I would run the current sub high level in on the L/R channels. Set receiver to full-range fronts. Then get a large sub and place by your couch and run from the LFE.

B.
post #499 of 732
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B View Post

I would run the current sub high level in on the L/R channels. Set receiver to full-range fronts. Then get a large sub and place by your couch and run from the LFE.

B.

Its currently connected this way (high level and LFE) and the fronts are set to full range.

Thats pretty much what I was thinking but leaving the REL connected with both the high level and LFE and placing two subs, one each side of the sofa and connect them just to LFE. This way the REL will give me all the wonderful benefits of complimenting the S2's and I would have LFE info in the whole room like a triangle and I would be sitting between the two adjacent to the sofa and of course the REL in front. I'd be truly engulfed in the movie experience.
If this becomes the final verdict then all I need to do is select the right subwoofer for the job. Thinking the Rythmik D15SE...
post #500 of 732
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Oldschool View Post

I would like to preface this by explaining I get VERY nice base with my current setup. The only thing I wish to change is when I watch a movie I want to feel like I am in the middle of the explosion rather than the explosion being forward of me so my thought is to place a subwoofer on either side of the sofa.

I just had an interesting conversation with a Rythmik representative discussing my room and my desire to achieve a more fuller bass. I am contemplating purchasing a second T-9 and placing them both next to the sofa and maybe a R-528SE behind the television (where the T-9 is now) or possibly keeping the T-9 in its current location and looking into a pair of Rythmik D15SE's. http://www.rythmikaudio.com/D15SE.html
The Rythmik rep in SoCal made some profound statements I do not necessarily agree with such as:
using a high level connection is like double amplifying the sound since your tapping off from the speaker output, amplified and the sub has its own amplifier causing phase issues and distortion.
use the subwoofer output (LFE) from my Integra, allow Audyssey to set the crossover on the REL to approx 80 Hz and dont use the high level connection at all.
a front firing sub vs a down firing sub makes no difference other than cosmetics.
the REL T-9 may play to 30 Hz but at a low db level.
the Rythmik is pretty flat down to 14Hz.
a 3 db increase is like doubling the sub volume.

These are just a few comments I found controvercial. The way I understand is the high level connection is only using millivolts of power so ther is no "double amplification" going on. Further since your tapping off the speaker output terminals the subwoofer physicly must be in phase with the main speakers since they are both receiving the same signal. Also my Paradigm Signature S2's are rated down to 52 Hz so I set my REL's crossover to about 45 Hz and its very musical. Sounds awesome!
Am I off here, missinformed or did I talk to someone who knows more or less than I? rolleyes.gif

What I would like is to discuss in detail my room, set-up and what I'm attempting to achieve with no bias to any specific brand.

Below is a scale diagram of my room followed by photographs showing what the room accoustics are like. The numbers in the diagram are decible levels from the subwoofer in those locations with the microphone placed in my "sweet spot" in the middle of the sofa. The microphone stayed in the one location and I moved the subwoofer around the room.

05-25-2013 06;25;00PM.JPG 1045k .JPG file 007.JPG 260k .JPG file 008.JPG 258k .JPG file 011.JPG 257k .JPG file 012.JPG 258k .JPG file 013.JPG 261k .JPG file

I can tell you this....I had a t-9 for a couple weeks for use mostly with movies and some music. It was hooked up both ways and I thought it provided good bass but completely agree with your complaints. My thought was to buy a second or buy a bigger sub. I ended up buying the r-528 SE and it made all the difference in the world. The sub is very clean in its bass production-feel more than you hear. I will probably add another in a while (just purchased separates and the 65zt60 TV). Those are my two cents!
post #501 of 732
@1Oldschool:

I also have quite a bad experience with dealers when it comes to subwoofers. They usually try to sell this one brand that gets them the most money (usually some exclusive brand to their shop).

What helps with a sub is getting one with a large woofer.

Also like I stated before to a few people: try treating your room first where possible (usually the visual part is the problem.. Haha). When it comes to peaks, nulls, ringing and localizing your sub, has mostly to do with your room. Solving it with an EQ is artificial and only 'works' for just one listening position. Room treatments will give you a stable response, in your entire room and also fixes the ringing and reflections of all frequency, increasing clarity drastically.

It's just that visual part you need to solve. For corner traps you can try putting things in front of them like a plant or curtains. For wall traps they have nice options to put a photo or painting on top of it. I am going for 'art traps' on my front and back walls :-)

If treatments really are a no no, multiple subs or a different sub might help. RELs are known for their great performance when connected HI level in a 2 channel music listening setup. RELs go deep without all of the 'boom', 'slam' and high SPLs.

For HT (LFE) it's a different story. While the RELs aren't bad, it's not they are not the best in this part. RELs perform best around 40Hz and below, while for HT the usual crossover point is set to 80Hz. You might wanna look into using the REL connected HI level to te mains and a fridge of a sub connected to the LFE for the 'slam'
post #502 of 732
I have a Rel T-9 sub. I was persuaded to purchase the sub by BB Magnolia due to how it connects with LR speakers. I had not done much research before I purchased the sub. Fast forward 2 years and I am evaluating my overall system and determining what upgrades I might like to make. A few questions for the group:

1 My impression of this forum is that most favor ID brands. Rel is not well regarded, particularly, in value category. Why is this and do you agree?

2. If I was to upgrade, would I be better served getting another Rel T-9 to work with my existing Rel T-9, get a larger Rel sub, or go with another sub mfg? I use the sub with both 5.1 HT and 2 channel listening. I have in-ceiling speakers at the moment so I need the sub with two channel.

3. How does the R series compare with T series for Rel?

Thanks
post #503 of 732
Would like to get Neutrik cable advice. I currently have a Quake II and just decided to make my own Neutrik cable. I bought a neutrik 4-pole NL4FX and would like to use 2 pairs of 16 gauge speaker wires. Left + & - to +1 & -1 respectively, and Right + & - to +2 & -2 respectively. I understand the oem Neutrik from Rel only uses 3 wires. Any harm or ill effects by using 4 wires?
post #504 of 732
post #505 of 732

That's one of the best reviews I've read or using a sub in a two-channel music system.
post #506 of 732
Quote:
Originally Posted by deeda View Post

I have a Rel T-9 sub. I was persuaded to purchase the sub by BB Magnolia due to how it connects with LR speakers. I had not done much research before I purchased the sub. Fast forward 2 years and I am evaluating my overall system and determining what upgrades I might like to make. A few questions for the group:

1 My impression of this forum is that most favor ID brands. Rel is not well regarded, particularly, in value category. Why is this and do you agree?

2. If I was to upgrade, would I be better served getting another Rel T-9 to work with my existing Rel T-9, get a larger Rel sub, or go with another sub mfg? I use the sub with both 5.1 HT and 2 channel listening. I have in-ceiling speakers at the moment so I need the sub with two channel.

3. How does the R series compare with T series for Rel?

Thanks

1. I can imagine. On paper RELs give less specs per buck. Smaller cabinets, smaller speaker cones and less powerful amps for twice the price. That's hard to sell. Especially when it comes to HT, REL aren't the grunty type of subs that will give a lot of boom and slam and since most people that look for a sub are going for HT use, not 2 channel stereo use, it makes sense no one recommends them.

And well, maybe they are right. I haven't truly heard any other sub of the popular brands, so we indeed might be trowing away our money biggrin.gif

2. If you feel the T9 is lacking in performance, get a bigger sub. I think there are quite a few other brands that have main speaker connectivity options, so you could do some research to that and maybe try to audition the highly recommended brands. Maybe their sound fits you better.

3. I think there were a few guys here that recently upgraded from de T to the R. I only have a quake2 (smallest REL sub) , which I upgraded to the B1 (largest REL sub)
post #507 of 732
Help. There is no sound coming out from my Rel T2. I'm not sure if my wrong connection was the reason. I mistakenly attached the yellow cable to the left negative. (Red in left positive, Black in right negative). I check the cable and there is no breakage. I checked it using my voltmeter.

I actually heard a very short distortion sound a day ago but I thought it was just from the recording.

The connection was corrected (Yellow to left positive, Red to right positive, Black to right negative)

The power lights up but still no sound. Was the wrong connection the reason? What can be the part inside that got busted?

Thanks.
post #508 of 732
Quote:
Originally Posted by ebug View Post

Help. There is no sound coming out from my Rel T2. I'm not sure if my wrong connection was the reason. I mistakenly attached the yellow cable to the left negative. (Red in left positive, Black in right negative). I check the cable and there is no breakage. I checked it using my voltmeter.

I actually heard a very short distortion sound a day ago but I thought it was just from the recording.

The connection was corrected (Yellow to left positive, Red to right positive, Black to right negative)

The power lights up but still no sound. Was the wrong connection the reason? What can be the part inside that got busted?

Thanks.

I would think that reversing the leads would only screw up the phase of the signals going to the sub. Have you tried connecting one of the low level inputs to a source to see if it works with that?
post #509 of 732
Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceTripper View Post

I brought home a R328 to try out this afternoon (as a possible replacement for my T-7). My speakers are rated down to 35 Hz. If I set the REL crossover to 35 Hz (or higher), I loose definition in the midrange and the bass is slightly too boomy (a recording of J.S. Bach's Toccata and Fugue for organ exposes that pretty quickly). I have the R328 at 30 Hz right now. It sounds really good. I was just playing some Renaissance music, with a lot of plucked strings and not much bass, but when I turned the REL off the soundstage dropped out and sounded flatter, less three-dimensional. Then I put on Charles Mingus, "Mingus Ah Um" and when Mingus is picking the bass really quickly I can hear every note very distinctly. The T-7 didn't seem to be able to keep up as well.

I really like what I am hearing so far. The R328 might have to stay home with me. smile.gif

I bought a R328 about a month ago and I am loving it.I've had Definitive Technology x 2 ,Monitor Audio Fast Bass,Energy Microstar,and a few cheap subs and the Rel beats them all for musicality.
Originally I was looking at the R218 but was concerned that it wasn't a good enough fit for my setup and wanted to be able to grow a bit without upgrading the sub down the road.
My speakers go down to 30hz and I have found in my room the sub sounds best with the crossover set 2-3 clicks from the lowest setting.The R328 is effectively making what I like about my speakers, sound so much better.It isn't really taking me down lower, just enhancing what is already there.Fabulous sub and a very satisfying purchase.
post #510 of 732
Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceTripper View Post

I would think that reversing the leads would only screw up the phase of the signals going to the sub. Have you tried connecting one of the low level inputs to a source to see if it works with that?

Thanks for the suggestion. It's been three days and my rel is totally quiet.

I tried your suggestion. Since I no longer have a home theater receiver but a stereo preamp and amp, I don't have the usual subwoofer out. But, I remember my Pioneer BDP-23FD bluray player has a subwoofer out. So I attached the LFE of REL to the bluray player subwoofer out. Went thru the speaker Channel Level setup and tried the test tones. In the first try nothing happened at any level. Totally quiet. Then after less than a minute or two, REL suddenly woke up when I applied the SW test tone. It was like it woke up from a coma. (Ok, so it is alive!). I played TRON movie, so far it was playing the sub. So I removed the LFE. Setup my amp and cd player, connected the Neutrik and played a music. It played the sub for a minute then suddenly Rel made a straight 3-second hum and immediately went back to "coma".

Did it triggered a safety fuse inside or some components are failing or busted?

The blue light is still on, so the power still supplies. But the Rel is now (again) totally quiet.

Anybody with the same experience?

Need HELP. Thanks.
Edited by ebug - 7/26/13 at 9:22pm
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