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If you had your choice..... Mitsubishi WD-73736 or Samsung HL67A750.

post #1 of 113
Thread Starter 
I'm stuck between these two DLP's.

I like them equally.

Mits is about $500 more

Please help me make up my mind.

Will be used mainly to watch Blu-Ray movies and Sports (NFL Football).
post #2 of 113
Samsung HL67A750 is LED based...so no lamp to replace ever...Samsung wins on this alone!
post #3 of 113
I chose the Mitsubishi.

Brighter more natural looking picture
Brighter Whites and Deeper Blacks
Better anti reflective screen
Wider viewing angles and better edge detail
No apparent geometry issues
The 73 is significantly larger viewing.

I guess it depends on what your needs and values are. A tough call.
post #4 of 113
I have a similar choise, but it seems that price difference is close to $700.
Can you hint us where 736 is sold below $2700?

Major problem with LED is viewing angle. I almost put a trigger on it, but one review stated that putting 67" LED TV (750) on 28" stand made heavily compromized PQ.
That dude raised the coach 5" and picture got superb. At the end he just purchased new stand.

But the point is if the sweet spot is so small how can you enjoy your TV laying down, dancing around or sitting at the same time?
post #5 of 113
This was the main reason I opted for the Mitsu. There is a definite sweet spot with the Samsung and viewingfrom a 45 degree angle is poor. This is not an issue in many people's setups, but it was in mine. I have 2 couches. One which is properly in front of the tv(12 ft away) and the side couch which is 7 feet away off to the side. The Samsung would not work well in this setup. The Mitsubishi has an acceptable viewing angle off to the side, better then my sony CRT rear projection.

I guess it all depends on your setup. My Sony frustrated me when I would sit on the side couch. I don't want this to be an issue anymore. So I will have to deal with the wheel and bulb.
post #6 of 113
1. The older Samsungs (lamp based) had a better image (sharper, less noise) than Mits,
2. The LED Samsungs have poorer blacks according to many on-line tests,
3. Mits has a issue with dust migrating into the lens assembly that some owners had to have changed out (blooming effect).
4. Mits was the last to have 2 RF inputs and TVGOS. Samsung dropped these features. Extreamly important to me since I won't bother with upper tiered cable and have many OTA stations that aren't on cable available to me.
5. Samsungs are less power hungry than Mits especially the LED based. On and off, the Sammy is green, the Mits
6. Mits has a 'auto iris' that can't be turned off (even in the SM). It causes flashing with certain scenes. Many times it isn't noticeable, but others it is and very annoying.
7. Samsung's cabinet is more 'flimsy' than Mits. The weight of the two sets (same size) shows the difference. The Sammy 'flexes' much more with the associated creaking as the set warms up.
8. The fan noise from the Mits is much noiser than Samsung.

I use to have a 50" Sammy, but now a 56" Mits.
I would say a Sammy LED, but the poor blacks, reported to be worse than a LCD would be a deal killer (at least a strong show stopper).

BTW; the poorer blacks wouldn't be much a issue with sports, but surely would be a major issue with movies!
post #7 of 113
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

2. The LED Samsungs have poorer blacks according to many on-line tests,


Is that with the current LED sets or last years models? I haven't seen any reviews of the new sets yet, other than hearing that it calibrates very well, while last years models were terrible.
post #8 of 113
I haven't seen any reviews for this years models either. Unless they added a gimmick similar to Mits with the 'auto iris' that can't be defeated, I can't imagine the problem going away like that.

I added one more to the above list that I forgot.
post #9 of 113
Trying to decide on one myself. I was thinking either one of these two 73" mitz
Mitsubishi WD-73835 Mitsubishi WD73735

I don't see much of a difference between the two? Does the extra money on the 835 make a difference?


Main problem I have is I'm more familar with samsung, I have one now and did a lot of research on it. Main reason I want to upgrade is I've moved it to a different room and well its too small.
post #10 of 113
I was in the same boat as yourself about a week ago.

I ended up comparing the 61" and 67" A750 Samsung's to the Mitsubishi 65" 65735 / 6. Everybody has listed good points in previous posts. Also, I want to say upfront that this is my opinion and mine only. You need to take all of this advice and go out there and do a physical comparison.

If this next paragraph is irrelevant to you then skip ahead to the next one. You mentioned a $500 difference between the models that you are considering. So I figured this might be a factor. Of course, you are paying $500 premium for 6" of diagonal real estate. If you compared the Samsung 67" to a Mitsubishi 65" then the dollar amounts almost reverse in Mitsubishi's favor. So if money is a dominant factor then you might consider the 65735 / 6.

I started the process by reading here first. I was convinced that the Samsung LED 67/61A750 was the TV for me. I wasn't even going to consider any Mitsubishi based on the complaints I read about the early 2007 models.

I went to various B&M and checked them out. I first noticed that the picture on the Samsung lamp models looked a little nicer to me than their LED versions. At one store they had a 67A750 setup right beside a 65735. My wife noticed the picture quality difference right away and pointed it out to me. This is from a person who generally thinks a TV picture is a TV picture and doesn't understand the big deal about it. I looked at them myself and I thought the picture on the Mitsubishi had a better picture with more pop and richer colors as well. Also, the viewing angle was definitely better on the Mitsubishi than the Samsung LED. I went back the following day and adjusted some settings and the results were the same to my eyes.

So I had to decide and for me it basically came down to this:

A) I could have a better picture with more pop and richer colors possibly because of a Dark Chip 4. The big drawback is I would have to put up with the lamp maintenance and hope that Mitsubishi has worked out their lamp issues. Price was signifcantly less, although a couple of non-warranty bulb changes could negate this over time.

B) I could have a lesser quality but acceptable picture with a LED light source and a little greener (electricity). I would have to hope that the LED maintenance (lack of) is true and not hype. Price was more too than the 65736.

I ended up ordering a 65736 because of the picture and price. Ultimately, I couldn't make the decision on LED alone. Although it was a major positive factor for the Samsung. If I wouldn't have priced, seen and played with the 65735 right beside the 67A750 I probably would have gotten the 67A750 and been happy. Unless, it arrived and had geometry issues mentioned in the Samsung threads.
post #11 of 113
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

...
3. Mits has a issue with dust migrating into the lens assembly that some owners had to have changed out (blooming effect).
...
8. The fan noise from the Mits is much noiser than Samsung.
...

I thought both of these issues were resolved in the current Mitsubishi line up. I sure hope so since I went with the Mitsubishi.
post #12 of 113
I decided that the benefits of LED outweighed the supposedly darker blacks of the Mitsubishi. I also noticed, at least in the showroom, that the Mitsubishi screen seems much more subject to glare. I honestly couldn't see much difference in the grayscale, though I don't deny that Mitsubishi has darker blacks, just that the difference (if any) is not that big.
As I see it, the only significant drawback of the LED Samsungs is the limited optimal viewing angle. To me this is not a big deal, I just sit in the exact center; but this could be a concern for others.
post #13 of 113
They were selling the Mit. on one of the home shopping networks over the weekend. They kept going on and on about how the Mit. has x.v.Color/deep color and the 3D mode (looks like the samsung also h as the 3d mode). Anyone know if the Samsung has the x.v. color, when I did a search all I found listed was "x.v.Color support".

For me the deciding factor would be the led, even if it did mean I had to rearrange my furniture to accommodate the poor viewing angle. Nothing worse than shelling out more $$$ for replacement bulbs.
post #14 of 113
Quote:
Originally Posted by sunwaterpool View Post

They were selling the Mit. on one of the home shopping networks over the weekend. They kept going on and on about how the Mit. has x.v.Color/deep color and the 3D mode (looks like the samsung also h as the 3d mode). Anyone know if the Samsung has the x.v. color, when I did a search all I found listed was "x.v.Color support".

For me the deciding factor would be the led, even if it did mean I had to rearrange my furniture to accommodate the poor viewing angle. Nothing worse than shelling out more $$$ for replacement bulbs.


Yes, Samsung TVs also support the extended gamut color space. However, it is irrelevant since nothing (currently) uses this color space, including newly released Blu-ray movies. Right now this is just marketing hype. For more info, see: http://www.hometheatermag.com/gearworks/207gear/
post #15 of 113
Also the LED samsung is 120 hz where the mits you have to buy the 65835 or73835 the diamond version to get the 120 hz. I compare the samsung LED with the new mits 735 and 736. Samsung held it owns the mits was a little britter. But when samsungs adds the dc4 chip it will be as bright and have the same viewing angle.
post #16 of 113
Quote:


Samsung TVs also support the extended gamut color space.

That's just another useless marketing ploy.
As I have said before, they take away useful features, for stupid gimmicks!
Quote:


Also the LED samsung is 120 hz where the mits you have to buy the 65835 or73835

See my above comment about mostly useless & questionable features. Every test I have read with sets that have this 120Hz option, the majority were negitive.
post #17 of 113
My brother-in-law has a Mitsubishi DLP, and the picture is truly horrible. I'm not sure of the model, other than he bought it last year. He was showing it off to me like it was great, but the picture IMO was terrible. The "blacks" weren't even black. They were gray. I played around with his settings, but could not correct the problem. Maybe I'm just spoiled by my Samsung LED, because he seemed happy with his TV.
post #18 of 113
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

That's just another useless marketing ploy.
As I have said before, they take away useful features, for stupid gimmicks! See my above comment about mostly useless & questionable features. Every test I have read with sets that have this 120Hz option, the majority were negitive.

I go on to state that the extended gamut color space is "marketing hype", since movies (currently) do not support it; but someone asked if Samsung had this feature, so I gave him the answer.
The theoretical benefit of 120Hz is that by using 5:5 pulldown instead of 3:2 pulldown, you can avoid the problem of "judder". In the owners thread I explained that the Samsung is not capable of 5:5 pulldown and that the 120Hz feature is designed to support the 3D capability, so that each eye can see images independently at 60Hz.
post #19 of 113
Coming back to original point of the tread.
Mitsu 73736 bulb with DC4 chip or 67A750 LED with DC3 chip.

1+. Picture quality is better on Mitsu.
2+. Real estate is 19% larger.
3+. Better viewing angles.
4+. Lack of shadowing ("missconvergence" of edges especially on white text) of LED models as recently reported.

1-. Maintenence is higher (Bulb and more moving parts)
2-. More money due to size difference.

Both models would need extended warranty, which somewhat minimize difference in bulb expense.

This forum is not about money , but Picture Quality and exciting movie experience - thus Mitsu got my vote.
Today Big River price decrease finally pushed me over the edge.
post #20 of 113
justlou; That's a first. A Mits with poorer blacks than a LED Sammy which has been reviewed as having poorer blacks than LCD flat panels.
post #21 of 113
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

justlou; That's a first. A Mits with poorer blacks than a LED Sammy which has been reviewed as having poorer blacks than LCD flat panels.

videobruce,
Where did you see that review? I would be interested in seeing it. If you can provide a link, that would be great.
Thanks.
post #22 of 113
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

justlou; That's a first. A Mits with poorer blacks than a LED Sammy which has been reviewed as having poorer blacks than LCD flat panels.

Link? ...Not that it really matters to me. The blacks on my LED are superb. Not only does it blow away the Mitsubishi I saw, it blows away the Samsung "S" series DLP that it replaced.
post #23 of 113
Quote:
Originally Posted by Al_HiFi View Post

Coming back to original point of the tread.
Mitsu 73736 bulb with DC4 chip or 67A750 LED with DC3 chip.

1+. Picture quality is better on Mitsu.
2+. Real estate is 19% larger.
3+. Better viewing angles.
4+. Lack of shadowing ("missconvergence" of edges especially on white text) of LED models as recently reported.

1-. Maintenence is higher (Bulb and more moving parts)
2-. More money due to size difference.

Both models would need extended warranty, which somewhat minimize difference in bulb expense.

This forum is not about money , but Picture Quality and exciting movie experience - thus Mitsu got my vote.
Today Big River price decrease finally pushed me over the edge.


Samsung sets have always had a more accurate color decoder. This is the main reason I didn't really consider the Mitsubishi. The 73" size of the Mitsubishi is really a plus. I would have really like something 8" larger than what I have but in the end decided to go back to Samsung and get 2" larger than my current Toshiba and also get the better color decoder and wider color gamut in the LED.

I just always hate gettinga new set becasue you never know what problems there might be with it. That's why I went local after getting all my HD sets online between 2001 and 2006, while the last few have been locally. I don't want to have to worry about delivery schedules and return problems.
post #24 of 113
This is an opinion coming from an amateur, not a videophile. When it comes to technical knowledge about TVs, I'm probably way below your average AVS Forum poster.

I'm in a very similar situation to yours. I want to upgrade to a big screen TV, and, after doing lots of research, am torn between the Mitsubishi lamp DLPs and the Samsung LED DLPs.

Price-wise, the LED is a bit more expensive than the lamp. However, over the life of the TV, the cost of lamp replacement is likely to eliminate the price advantage of the lamp. Thus, I initially decided to go with the LED.

Then I went to a bunch of local stores to compare them side by side. I went to several Ken Cranes, Video & Audio, Best Buy, Circuit City, Magnolia, and Paul's TV. I must have looked at over 50 DLPs easily in both kinds and in various sizes. Although some stores did not have both kinds, most had the LEDs and lamps close to each other (and many literally side by side). On a few occasions, my girlfriend (also an amateur) came alone with me.

Our layperson's opinion (based on me and her) is that, overall, the Mits lamp is consistently better in picture quality than the Samsung LED. The lamp is usually brighter and the colors more lifelike. Most importantly, I consistently felt that the LEDs looked bluer than the lamps. This is especially apparent when I focused on white images. The lamps just had whiter whites. The LEDs vary in the extent of their blue tint. Some sets were pretty bad - you could tell even without comparing to another TV that the color was too blue. At one Best Buy even the salesguy admitted so. Some were not as bad; you could only tell it was bluer when next to a lamp. I tried adjusting settings like picture mode, color, tint, and white balance, but they didn't seem to help much. Maybe there is a way to fix this with careful calibration, but I don't know how. But even if you could fix this on the LED, I feel that a TV's default should look good out-of-the-box since the lamp achieves this (so why can't the LED?). And do I really want a TV that is that difficult to set?

So my conclusion is that, because picture quality is very important to me, I'd rather go with the lamp, even though the lamp is probably not as sensible from a financial standpoint. Just because the lamp looks better. And I've now seen enough to get a pretty good idea of how they look out-of-the-box. Maybe I'm just being too sensitive about the blue tint (it doesn't bother my girlfriend quite as much), but now that I've seen it I can't seem to get over it. If you don't see the blue, then maybe the LED will be just fine for you. This is actually a bit disappointing to me because I really wanted to go with the LED to avoid the cost and hassle of lamp replacement.

I still haven't bought one yet. One idea is that I may just buy a cheaper, smaller "temporary" TV for now (maybe like a 50" 720p plasma like the Panasonic TH50PX80U or Samsung PN50A450 - both seem like solid choices with cheap prices). And wait for maybe a couple years - when either the cost of a big 65" plasma/LCD becomes a lot cheaper or Mitsubishi's Laservue turns out to be a good product at a competitive price. Then at that time I can finally buy a big 65"-75" TV that I've been wanting for a long itme. This seems to be a sensible route, but I've been waiting for so long that my patience is a bit thin these days.

I've already decided what else to buy *once* I buy my TV. But now my indecision about TV is holding everything else up. I currently have an Energy Take-5 5.1 speaker setup (several years old), and am planning on adding a new Onkyo TXSR606 receiver and a PlayStation 3 (for BluRay movies; I don't even game). I'll be very excited when everything finally comes together (hopefully someday soon!).

Anyway, I hope my rambling is somewhat helpful. I'd be curious to know what you decide. And of course if anyone has any comments I'd be happy to hear them.
post #25 of 113
Ironically it's the lamp that will change over time affecting the color output. The LED is more consistent over the life. Once it's calibrated properly, white, will look as it supposed to while a lamp will degrade over time and change the color as well. That's one of the reasons a yearly professional calibration is a good idea to adjust for any color shifts. This happened with my current Toshiba DLP. It had shifted toward the green in the year between the initial calibration and when I had it re-calibrated. OF course the re-calibration set everything right again, but as the bulb ages it will probably shift again. Although I'm selling it and replacing it with the Samsung LED DLP.
post #26 of 113
The odd thing about the Samsung LED based DLP is many say it has poorer blacks and no very white whites (kinda a blue-ish white) even though Samsung reports Contrast is 10,000:1 while the Samsung Lamp based DLP only has 2500:1. You would think the LED based would have superior blacks and whites over the Lamps based DLPs but that is generally not what is reported by AVS folks. Is Samsung somehow deceiving us with the 10,000:1 figure?

Do we know what contrast ratio the Mit is reporting? I see it has something called a Dark Detailer under Dynamic Contract but no actual contrast ratio.
post #27 of 113
I owned a Samsung lamp DLP and an LED DLP. The LED has much more accurate color, whiter whites, and deeper blacks. After only a year, my lamp set was also dimmer.
JMO, YMMV.
post #28 of 113
Quote:


Samsung reports Contrast is 10,000:1

Samsung has a dynamic iris that use to be able to be turned off in the SM. I don't think you can do so any more.

justlou; Search through CNet and HT Magazine/Perfect Vision.
post #29 of 113
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

I haven't seen any reviews for this years models either. Unless they added a gimmick similar to Mits with the 'auto iris' that can't be defeated, I can't imagine the problem going away like that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamers View Post

The odd thing about the Samsung LED based DLP is many say it has poorer blacks and no very white whites (kinda a blue-ish white) even though Samsung reports Contrast is 10,000:1 while the Samsung Lamp based DLP only has 2500:1. You would think the LED based would have superior blacks and whites over the Lamps based DLPs but that is generally not what is reported by AVS folks. Is Samsung somehow deceiving us with the 10,000:1 figure?

Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

Samsung has a dynamic iris that use to be able to be turned off in the SM. I don't think you can do so any more.

My understanding of the LED sets is that they do have an equivelantof a dynamic iris, but it's not really an iris like the lamp based sets. Since the LEDs, by their nature, flash on and off extremely fast, they are able to have a specific light output that is needed for each screen refresh, as opposed to an iris throttling light from a constant brightness lamp, which responds MUCH slower. So I wouldn't expect the LED sets to have a way of disabling that function, because it's inherent to their operation, and there's really no downside to it's use, only benefits. The Mits has the better imager (Darkchip 4) that has more native contrast ratio, but the Samsung has the superior light technology that should be able to produce greater overall contrast ratio from the dimmest scenes to the brightest. So in theory, the Mits should be able to produce a wider range of black to white within a single, static image, but the Samsung should be able to produce a wider range from a completely black screen to a completely white screen, if counting from multiple images (or at least be able to have this benefit without the delay inherent from a mechanical iris).

I found a really good deal on a 67A750, and came really close to biting. But I decided the prudent thing to do (for me, since I don't really need a new set right now) is to wait until the advantges Darkchip 4 and LED lighting are combined into one display. There are (unsubstantiated) rumors that Samsung will have an "850" series that will have the Darkchip 4. I don't know if Mits is going to have LED sets, or is just going to go straight to laser (which is rumored to be out of my price range). But someone is bound to combine advanced lighting and Darkchip 4 into a single affordable set some time in the next year.
post #30 of 113
My bad, I forgot we were talking about LED based sets.
Doesn't the Sammy have local dimming whereas specific areas of LEDS go dark in dark scenes to reduce the light output in those areas?
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