AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Rear Projection Units › If you had your choice..... Mitsubishi WD-73736 or Samsung HL67A750.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

If you had your choice..... Mitsubishi WD-73736 or Samsung HL67A750. - Page 3

post #61 of 113
Quote:
Originally Posted by nicholc2 View Post

Oddly enough you guys brought that up. I actually emailed the editor and asked about them referring to something they haven't even reviewed. He said they had reviewed it, but it won't be on the site for another week or so. However, if you look who sponsers CNET, it's Samsung and not Mitsubishi, so I take their Mitsubishi review with a grain of salt. From my experience, both companies produce a very fine RPTV when calibrated.

I think the main thing that jumps out at me with the LED set, is it's off angle viewing is much worse than a lamp based set. I'm sure this will change as the tech gets better, but for now lamp based sets look better off angle than LED sets. But if you don't have to worry about off angle viewing, then that isn't a big deal.

Agreed that Cnet reviews should be taken with a grain of salt. I have found them to be flat out wrong on too many occasions. The fact the the Mitsibishi has DC4 should lend some validity to it's better contrast and black levels. If the Samsung has better black levels then the Mitsubishi 735/736, you might confuse it with a Kuro.
post #62 of 113
Well, I made my choice and bought the Samsung 67"--Got a good deal, and I don't want a bulb based set, and I'm not going to wait for the laservues that will probably beway too pricey, at least at first, for what will only be a marginal improvement in image quality.
post #63 of 113
I've got the Sammy HL67A750 and I'm taking it back tomorrow. It's what appears to be the convergence problems that I'm disgusted with on this set. White type literally has red bleed 3/16 of a inch below and a equal amount of cyan to the top. Had the service man come out and they replaced some parts and it didn't fix the problem. He told me he needed to go back and call the Samsung engineer. The service man then called me back and said that if the problem wasn't something I could live with to take it back as it couldn't be fixed. This tells me they have a problem with more than just some bad sets, systemic anyone? I'm dropping it back off at Best Buy tomorrow.

Also to note is that I will no longer be buying anything from Best Buy as I will be out $100 in cost getting this TV back and forth to Best Buy and I didn't use them as delivery. They were going to take 4 days to deliver and charge $75 so I had a buddy help pick it up using his truck. With the cost of gas these days and for his time I gave him $50. Now, because of this faulty set I've got to flush another $50 bucks down the toilet. Tried to reason with Best Buy, but they have their policies. Well Best Buy, I've got my policies too.
post #64 of 113
This was the reason I paid for BestBuy delivery. If I had any problems the delivery cost and warranty covered picking it up and delivering a new one.
post #65 of 113
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronwt View Post

This was the reason I paid for BestBuy delivery. If I had any problems the delivery cost and warranty covered picking it up and delivering a new one.

If it wasn't for the 4 days it was going to take to have it delivered I would have used their delivery. However my problem with Best Buy is that now I'm out $100 because I purchased a product from them that was defective (conformed by the service technician) when it left their store. My point is that I've incurred this expense thru no fault of my own, but thru fault of Best Buy. I man-up when I've done something wrong and I expect to be treated the same way by people I do business with.

I'm just FYI'n everyone so that it is clear what type of company they are dealing with if they choose to purchase their TV's at Best Buy. If this attitude by a company is not a problem for you then by all means knock yourself out.
post #66 of 113
The reason I got the LED is for the consistent light output. The lamp based RP set shifts over time requiring yearly calibrations. I'm hoping the LED sets won't drift like my lamp based ones have always done.
I really would have liked a 72" or 73" set, but the consistency of the LED is what I want now after dealing with lamp based sets the last 3 years.
post #67 of 113
Quote:


It's what appears to be the convergence problems that I'm disgusted with on this set.

Single chip DLP's can't have convergence problems. That would probably be a optic problem solved by a LE replacement.
As far as delivery costs, that's no digfferent than mail ordering a product including serts as these that many have done in this forum including myself. Not just once, but twice. I had no additional delivery costs. The first set was exchanged with no cost to me.
Quote:


My point is that I've incurred this expense thru no fault of my own, but thru fault of Best Buy.

You elected to transport it yourself. You can't hold the store responsible for that because you didn't want to wait. What is a few more days??
Where do you live that it takes four days to deliver something locally?

I'm not a fan of Best Buy, but with what you described, it isn't their fault. Why don't you just exchange it for another since you have that guys truck?
post #68 of 113
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronwt View Post

The reason I got the LED is for the consistent light output. The lamp based RP set shifts over time requiring yearly calibrations. I'm hoping the LED sets won't drift like my lamp based ones have always done.
I really would have liked a 72" or 73" set, but the consistency of the LED is what I want now after dealing with lamp based sets the last 3 years.

When you say calibrate yearly, do you mean professionally or by yourself?

Reason I ask is that I've had a 50" Toshiba for 6+ years and never replaced the bulb. I occasionally recalibrate it myself, but have never had it professionally done. To me, it still has a great picture, but I'm in the market for something bigger. So I'm interested in the LEDs, but am worried about the angle, the colors I've been reading about, and the fact that there are no 70+ inchers.

Curious if any of you who bought the LED Sammy considered a Sharp or Olevia LCD?
post #69 of 113
Quote:
Originally Posted by sixfoot View Post

I'm interested in the LEDs, but am worried about the angle, the colors I've been reading about, and the fact that there are no 70+ inchers.

Can't help you as far as size goes, but I doubt you'll have issues with colors and angle. Of course, it depends on your situation, but most ownere report being pleasantly surprised.

Most issues have been resolved with an exchange, so make sure of the return/exchange policy before you buy.
post #70 of 113
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

Single chip DLP's can't have convergence problems. That would probably be a optic problem solved by a LE replacement.

Hence the use the words "appears to be". I was describing what the problem looked like. I'm aware DLP's don't suffer from convergence as old CRT sets. Also, it was the Samsung engineer that said the set was unrepairable not me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

You can't hold the store responsible for that because you didn't want to wait.

I'm holding Best Buy responsible for selling me a defective product and the additional cost of rectifying that issue that I'm now going to incur.

Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

I'm not a fan of Best Buy, but with what you described, it isn't their fault. Why don't you just exchange it for another since you have that guys truck?

Actually, I think selling me a product that does not preform as advertised is the sellers fault and they should do what is necessary to rectify the issue with the utmost transparency. I don't have that other guys truck, he does. He is coming today to help take this TV back. 60 mile round trip for him. I'll pay for his time and gas as it is simply the right thing to do.

Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

Where do you live that it takes four days to deliver something locally?

Metro Atl.

Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

As far as delivery costs, that's no digfferent than mail ordering a product including serts as these that many have done in this forum including myself. Not just once, but twice. I had no additional delivery costs. The first set was exchanged with no cost to me.

Then we are in agreement and that is all I was asking Best Buy for.
post #71 of 113
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

Single chip DLP's can't have convergence problems.

Single chip DLPs with a single light source can't have convergence problems. But if there is something off in the way the three LEDs are combined into a single beam, causing the three colors to hit the DLP at slightly different angles, there can be convergence issues. I have to say, when I looked at these at BB, I noticed some convergence issues.
post #72 of 113
Quote:
Originally Posted by sixfoot View Post

When you say calibrate yearly, do you mean professionally or by yourself?

Reason I ask is that I've had a 50" Toshiba for 6+ years and never replaced the bulb. I occasionally recalibrate it myself, but have never had it professionally done. To me, it still has a great picture, but I'm in the market for something bigger. So I'm interested in the LEDs, but am worried about the angle, the colors I've been reading about, and the fact that there are no 70+ inchers.

Curious if any of you who bought the LED Sammy considered a Sharp or Olevia LCD?

Yes professionally. I've been getting my main display professionally calibrated at least once a year since 2001.
post #73 of 113
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronwt View Post

Yes professionally. I've been getting my main display professionally calibrated at least once a year since 2001.

How much does that usually cost? Is this somethign you think only the trained eyed would benefit from?
post #74 of 113
Quote:
Originally Posted by sixfoot View Post

How much does that usually cost? Is this somethign you think only the trained eyed would benefit from?

Each calibrator charges a different rate, but you definitely do NOT need a trained eye to see the benefits of a calibration. A good calibration is almost always a night and day difference in picture quality.
post #75 of 113
Quote:
Originally Posted by nicholc2 View Post

Each calibrator charges a different rate, but you definitely do NOT need a trained eye to see the benefits of a calibration. A good calibration is almost always a night and day difference in picture quality.

Worth the $300 - $400 a year? I assume there is no calibration equivalent for an LCD or Plasma? If not, then those seem to be cheaper over the lifetime of the set compared to a RP. Is that right?
post #76 of 113
ANy set can benefit from a professional calibration. If my main display was a plasma or an LCD I would still be getting it professionally calibrated.
post #77 of 113
Quote:
Originally Posted by sixfoot View Post

Worth the $300 - $400 a year? I assume there is no calibration equivalent for an LCD or Plasma? If not, then those seem to be cheaper over the lifetime of the set compared to a RP. Is that right?


It's only $300-$400 a year with a bulb based set (Well, I'm not actually sure about plasmas or LCDs), but with Samsung LED based DLPs, the bulb output does not fade or drift over time, so once should do it.

This may well be true of the Mits Laservues as well, if they ever come to market.
post #78 of 113
Quote:
Originally Posted by sixfoot View Post

Worth the $300 - $400 a year? I assume there is no calibration equivalent for an LCD or Plasma? If not, then those seem to be cheaper over the lifetime of the set compared to a RP. Is that right?

Worth is means different things to different people. I don't charge that much, but I don't do calibrations for a living. I do it on the side because it's something I like to do. LCDs and Plasma's can definitely be calibrated and benefit just as much from calibration as a RPTV does. Plasma's and LCDs do change over their lifetime, but much less than a bulb based RPTV does. So a calibration on those will last longer than a bulb based RPTV. At a minimum, if you really feel calibration is worth it, then you should get your RPTV calibrated with each bulb replacement because each bulb is different and changes color reproduction.
post #79 of 113
Thanks for the info. I had no idea you could calibrate an LCD/Plasma other than brightness, contrast, etc.

So along those lines, how do you know when it is time to replace a bulb? Does it have to burn out? I've had a 50" RP for over 6 years and never replaced the bulb.
post #80 of 113
Quote:
Originally Posted by sixfoot View Post

Thanks for the info. I had no idea you could calibrate an LCD/Plasma other than brightness, contrast, etc.

So along those lines, how do you know when it is time to replace a bulb? Does it have to burn out? I've had a 50" RP for over 6 years and never replaced the bulb.

It's more about hours than it is years, but I'd say it's time for a new bulb.
I replaced mine after 3 years, but after seeing the difference it made, I'll only go a maximum of 2, if not every year.
post #81 of 113
Quote:
Originally Posted by nicholc2 View Post

It's more about hours than it is years, but I'd say it's time for a new bulb.
I replaced mine after 3 years, but after seeing the difference it made, I'll only go a maximum of 2, if not every year.

I'm planning on replacing the whole TV this time, but thanks for the info.
post #82 of 113
First I had the Samsung 67A750 and went with the Mitsubishi 73735 for size.
Although I had some issues with the LED set's white being a bit blue, upon working with it, the accuracy was there in the end
-once I got some odd green in a Discovery HD show, but then it went away.
The LEDs on the Samsung that supposedly last longer than the Mitsubishi's lamps are a plus, too, but in the end, its performance and features.

The Mitsubishi 73735 is bigger for my viewing distance, but it suffers on three levels I will have to live with, now that I swapped it out on-trial:

1) Horrible HDMI setup problems that plague you from day one:
IF you aren't careful with the CEC devices connected to your AVR, it does battle with you and forgets your Video settings, too.

2) Colours are not as accurate, if you trust the cnet review of the WD-65735 from 7/31, reds are way off vs. the Samsung set.
Here, the Samsung 61A750 got a 8.0 overall rating to the Mitsubishi 65735's 6.5 due to color inaccuracies, somewhat helped by a calibrator, but poor (according to cnet), nevertheless...the reds are very odd, no matter how much I tweak their "Perfectcolor" settings.
Maybe most people won't notice this.

3) Video noise is more noticable on the 73735 due to Mitsubishi's reduction techniques, so details can, at times, come up short:
I found the Samsung's pictures to be much more sharp and detailed, at least to me and my family members, too.

So what I would do if I could do it all over again:
Live with the Samsungs' 18% approx. smaller overall screen size, no colour/sharpness errors and HMDI setup nightmares!
post #83 of 113
I don't use HDMI at all because of the banding issue. Much, much worse with HDMI than it is with component.

I agree with you, Mits is noisey and it is softer than Samsung. Did I understand it correctly that you can't disable the overscan in the SM any more with Samsung as you use to?
post #84 of 113
I use HDMI because I have my Blu-ray player, HD DVD and DVD upconversion changer are all hooked up to the Denon AVR, I have no choice, unless I want to go backwards (for me) on the advanced audio codecs for BD and HD DVD and no DVD upconversion, which the Sony changer does rather well, BTW.
But what bothers me is the overall cnet ratings of my Sony SXRD I have in another room that got a cnet 8.0 rating (thay I agree with), as well as the Samsung HL6xA750 series getting that 8.0 also.

-So the Mits is going to be tweaked and tweaked for colour errors, until I am satisfied...if ever, as I thought there was something that bothered me and it started with the poor reds after the HDMI battles.

-Even the "good" rating at 6.5 is a drop for the WD-65735 (should be same for the WD-73735), even for cnet's rating vs. for what, the WD-73734 of last year, that was much higher!
post #85 of 113
Quote:
Originally Posted by gparris View Post

First I had the Samsung 67A750 and went with the Mitsubishi 73735 for size.
Although I had some issues with the LED set's white being a bit blue, upon working with it, the accuracy was there in the end
-once I got some odd green in a Discovery HD show, but then it went away.
The LEDs on the Samsung that supposedly last longer than the Mitsubishi's lamps are a plus, too, but in the end, its performance and features.

The Mitsubishi 73735 is bigger for my viewing distance, but it suffers on three levels I will have to live with, now that I swapped it out on-trial:

1) Horrible HDMI setup problems that plague you from day one:
IF you aren't careful with the CEC devices connected to your AVR, it does battle with you and forgets your Video settings, too.

2) Colours are not as accurate, if you trust the cnet review of the WD-65735 from 7/31, reds are way off vs. the Samsung set.
Here, the Samsung 61A750 got a 8.0 overall rating to the Mitsubishi 65735's 6.5 due to color inaccuracies, somewhat helped by a calibrator, but poor (according to cnet), nevertheless...the reds are very odd, no matter how much I tweak their "Perfectcolor" settings.
Maybe most people won't notice this.

3) Video noise is more noticable on the 73735 due to Mitsubishi's reduction techniques, so details can, at times, come up short:
I found the Samsung's pictures to be much more sharp and detailed, at least to me and my family members, too.

So what I would do if I could do it all over again:
Live with the Samsungs' 18% approx. smaller overall screen size, no colour/sharpness errors and HMDI setup nightmares!


Don't forget the geometry issues and random green tint.

"-Even the "good" rating at 6.5 is a drop for the WD-65735 (should be same for the WD-73735), even for cnet's rating vs. for what, the WD-73734 of last year, that was much higher!"

Regardless of score, do you think because of this cnet review last years model is better then the current model?
post #86 of 113
Quote:
Originally Posted by roccol View Post

Don't forget the geometry issues and random green tint.

"-Even the "good" rating at 6.5 is a drop for the WD-65735 (should be same for the WD-73735), even for cnet's rating vs. for what, the WD-73734 of last year, that was much higher!"

Regardless of score, do you think because of this cnet review last years model is better then the current model?

It was just that cnet was less forgiving over the colour inaccuracy this time around vs. last year, it could have possibly led to a lower score than last year as to ratings, but they are right about the set otherwise with the good things are right about it...and there are some.
As for geometry issues, I haven't noticed any, it could be the seating distance, viewing angle or the fact this set is bigger than the one it replaced.
post #87 of 113
Quote:
Originally Posted by gparris View Post

It was just that cnet was less forgiving over the colour inaccuracy this time around vs. last year, it could have possibly led to a lower score than last year as to ratings, but they are right about the set otherwise with the good things are right about it...and there are some.
As for geometry issues, I haven't noticed any, it could be the seating distance, viewing angle or the fact this set is bigger than the one it replaced.

I was actually referring to some of the Samsung issues. The green thing you spotted is not an aberration. I have seen it on 2 of the 67 sets and I believe it has been noted by several people on this forum. It was hard for me to compare these sets. I compared the 61, 65, 67 sets. To me, the Samsung 61 inch looked much better then the 67 inch set. I assume some of this has to do with 67 inch pushing the current led envelope. In the end I chose the 65736. I do not like distracting shinny bezels(Have a samsung in my kitchen) and I thought the picture was more natural and without question a better viewing angle. I was already thinking of painting the Samsung bezel as I had it for a few days.
post #88 of 113
Also, if you look at CNETs review, they don't take the time to calibrate the grayscale just because it's in the SM as opposed to the UM. The Samsung, they do calibrate grayscale since it's in the UM. IMO, they should have calibrated the Mits too, to give an accurate review regardless of where the settings are. Also, the new Mits models have the ability to adjust the color coordinates in the SM now as well, so that could have changed the entire review.

I think cnet tends to favor Samsung as they are a sponser. Not saying that the Samsung isn't a good set, it is, but still you have to keep things in perspective.
post #89 of 113
Quote:
Originally Posted by roccol View Post

I was actually referring to some of the Samsung issues. The green thing you spotted is not an aberration. I have seen it on 2 of the 67 sets and I believe it has been noted by several people on this forum. It was hard for me to compare these sets. I compared the 61, 65, 67 sets. To me, the Samsung 61 inch looked much better then the 67 inch set. I assume some of this has to do with 67 inch pushing the current led envelope. In the end I chose the 65736. I do not like distracting shinny bezels(Have a samsung in my kitchen) and I thought the picture was more natural and without question a better viewing angle. I was already thinking of painting the Samsung bezel as I had it for a few days.

Thanks, I had with the Samsung what I call a "psychdelic green" on the HL67A750 on an HD channel that is noted for good HD delivery.
It was jungle scene with a river next to it, all the plants on the right side of the screen were a very weird green and it just bothered me very much.
That sort of did it for me, otherwise, the geometry seemed okay to me.
Cnet could have had a bad WD-65735 set or not one representative of all sets of its kind and the 73" set, not tested at all, could be much better.
The 61" LED set vs. its 67" model are different indeed, so unless cnet wants to test the 73" (and the 67" LED set), it could be a different story.

In the interim, I have tweaked the "Perfect Color" setting on the WD-73735 and found the moving the magneta and cyan a bit produces better over colours than before, including adjustments to the contrast and brightess.
I actually thought the colours were an improvement over the Samsung, but the reds needed some improvement and these did, once I worked with the other 3 colour adjustments.
post #90 of 113
Quote:
Originally Posted by nicholc2 View Post

Also, if you look at CNETs review, they don't take the time to calibrate the grayscale just because it's in the SM as opposed to the UM. The Samsung, they do calibrate grayscale since it's in the UM. IMO, they should have calibrated the Mits too, to give an accurate review regardless of where the settings are. Also, the new Mits models have the ability to adjust the color coordinates in the SM now as well, so that could have changed the entire review.

I think cnet tends to favor Samsung as they are a sponser. Not saying that the Samsung isn't a good set, it is, but still you have to keep things in perspective.

of all the websites with pro and user reviews, it is my opinion (yes MY opinion) that CNET is uterly worthless in all regards.
sorry, I dont feel like expanding on why, but it has been my growing opinion for many years now.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Rear Projection Units
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Rear Projection Units › If you had your choice..... Mitsubishi WD-73736 or Samsung HL67A750.