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How To Connect A Subwoofer To A Receiver 101 - Page 2

post #31 of 71
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by lalakersfan34 View Post

Even if you aren't demanding your towers to reproduce 30hz, they can still be beneficial. Large towers with proper amplification are capable of much better dynamics at high output levels than are bookshelf/monitor speakers. This will especially be true in the mid/upper bass. Let's say you have a very big, powerful subwoofer in your HT and enjoy watching movies at reference level. If you use an 80hz crossover with bookshelf speakers that use a single 6" driver with a -3dB point at 60hz, they'll struggle to keep up with the sub at high output levels. You'll have tons of <80hz bass, with a significant loss in dynamic headroom in the ~80-120hz range. Now swap out the bookshelf speakers for towers with dual 8" drivers, rated to 35hz and they'll be much better able to keep up if you like to listen at reference level.

Just thought I'd stir the pot more...though I can certainly understand where you're coming from, Erik. And I agree that it's best for people to experiment with their setups to find the settings they like best.

+1 what he said
post #32 of 71
I'm only tossing out the notion that there is NO HARD rule for connecting a subwoofer and speakers to a HT system.

There are many good quality towers that do an admirable job of deep bass, and so following a 'rule' to set them to smalls is like neutering them and so is a waste of money.

There are also instances of users who wish only for their subs to 'augment' their bass, not be the primary source for their bass - and so yet again, another exception to the rule.

There are other users, like me, who are not out to have the US Geological Society detect my HT system as a seismic disturbance detectable on the Richter scale and, at moderate volumes, setting mains to Large offers a better sonic experience.

And yet again, for those who prefer 2-channel listening, while still getting subwoofer output, that utilizes their avr feature to 'bypass' DSP and present 2-channel sources as pure as possible this requires a different way of connecting the subwoofer (btw, the link to audioholics qa faq is not a good source imho where questions are answered with questions challenging users on the practicality of subwoofer hookups that are clearly stated by subwoofer vendors as acceptable and sometimes preferrable).

Let your own ears decide what is best for you....

To me, the Rules for Subwoofers are more what you'd call "guidelines" than actual rules...arrrrrrr....

Erik
post #33 of 71
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik Tracy View Post

(btw, the link to audioholics qa faq is not a good source imho where questions are answered with questions challenging users on the practicality of subwoofer hookups that are clearly stated by subwoofer vendors as acceptable and sometimes preferrable).

To me, the Rules for Subwoofers are more what you'd call "guidelines" than actual rules...arrrrrrr....

Erik

which link?

what rules?
post #34 of 71
Unfortunately, some receivers prohibit sending LFE to both the mains and sub outputs, so a certain flexibility in connection may be called for...

Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundChex View Post

My configuration issues are probably the reverse of [...] most people's...

My mains are [nominally] rated 28 Hz - 20 kHz, matched with a powered sub 35 Hz - 150 Hz capable...

I have a Yamaha AST-A10/YST-A10 2-channel amp and a powered sub both Y-connected to the receiver's L and R main pre-out terminals, and nothing attached to the sub RCA terminal. This is the only way to route LFE to both a sub and the L/R mains from my Yamaha HTR-5860 (rebadged RX-V657).

The Yamaha AST-A10/YST-A10 2-channel amp and complementary AST-S1/YST-S1 speakers use the same bass/LFE reproduction technology as do Yamaha subs, but the speakers are difficult to place. Except in a dedicated listening room/home theater, placing the speakers for correct Front L/R imaging usually compromises bass/LFE room surface coupling [my speakers must invariably be placed on bookshelves rather than on ("recommended height") 22" floor stands!] [This is probably one of the reasons Yamaha stopped using Active Servo Technology (AST) aka Yamaha Servo Technology (YST) except in subs...] So I've added a [conventional] sub for a little 'in fill'... In some ways, this is more like a 3 sub configuration problem.

As an aside: One consequence of NOT using the receiver's sub terminal is that ALL redirected bass is also routed to the front main channels. However, with my crossover set to 80 Hz, there is no sense of inappropriately redirected rear bass being played through the front speakers!
post #35 of 71
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik Tracy View Post

There are other users, like me, who are not out to have the US Geological Society detect my HT system as a seismic disturbance detectable on the Richter scale
Erik

Erik, this makes me sad , lol. Actually, your points are well taken. I think setting all speakers to small is a good starting point, but depending on the system, its uses, and most importantly the preferences of its listeners, tweaking is certainly a viable option .
post #36 of 71
Quote:
Originally Posted by lalakersfan34 View Post

Erik, this makes me sad , lol. Actually, your points are well taken. I think setting all speakers to small is a good starting point, but depending on the system, its uses, and most importantly the preferences of its listeners, tweaking is certainly a viable option .

If/when I can appease my domestic goddess of diverting funds for my super HT configuration - I will have to woefully accept my meager setup and keep hope in my heart when I can shout to the heavens..."I have the POWER".. sorry...

Then I will be able to secretly smirk when the local news reports that the USGS reported a disturbance in my area registering a 4.0.

Erik
post #37 of 71
Thread Starter 
bump
post #38 of 71
Thread Starter 
bump, sorry
post #39 of 71
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik Tracy View Post

If/when I can appease my domestic goddess of diverting funds for my super HT configuration - I will have to woefully accept my meager setup and keep hope in my heart when I can shout to the heavens..."I have the POWER".. sorry...

Then I will be able to secretly smirk when the local news reports that the USGS reported a disturbance in my area registering a 4.0.

Erik

only a 4.0 ?
post #40 of 71
Thread Starter 
bumping it
post #41 of 71
Found my answer....
post #42 of 71
thanks so much for this thread. for a noob like me, this helped a lot!
post #43 of 71
Newbie here!!!I had received my replaced Cerwin-Vega CVHD subwoofer. Just want to know is it batter to switch off the sub woofer every time after use or i can keep it always on. Please guide. Thanks in advance.
post #44 of 71
Thread Starter 
BUMP
post #45 of 71
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrPainMD View Post

BUMP

good idea
post #46 of 71
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrPainMD View Post

good idea

post #47 of 71
Thread Starter 
boom boom pow bump
post #48 of 71
Thread Starter 
bumping like a grasshopper
post #49 of 71
just got mine system setup with a pioneer vsx819hk receiver, bookshelf paradigms, and a polkaudio pw505. I don't think i've set it up right because im not getting the results i was expecting.
Seems the bass is only apparent in the obvious situations. Not even that loud at MAX volume. I put the low freq on my sub at 0Hz and 80hz in the MCACC settings.

in the manual it says that subwoofer has a PLUS option, but it doesnt give me that option is the osd. Plus supposedly gives continuous bass.

Lastly where can I set the -5db?
post #50 of 71
actually at max vol all it does is make the booms muddier.
that's all i get are booms.

For example there is no bass when there is some orchestral arrangements in a movie
post #51 of 71
Quote:
Originally Posted by geestring View Post

I put the low freq on my sub at 0Hz and 80hz in the MCACC settings.

If, by low freq on the sub, you mean the crossover (Low Pass) is set to zero, then you want to turn that up to max (160). As it only goes down to 60, I assume you are looking at the phase switch. It has a 0 and 180 position. Leave this at 0 for now.
post #52 of 71
ok yes the low pass thing goes to 120... i was confused by the guide where it said set to OFF ...

I guess it's ok. MAybe my expectations were a little high. Not bad for a $300 sub. Err im not going to like this expensive hobby I already want to replace the sub!
post #53 of 71
actually it is super annoying because the sub just surprises you with action sequences.
Music the bass is non existent.
post #54 of 71
Quote:
Originally Posted by geestring View Post

actually it is super annoying because the sub just surprises you with action sequences.
Music the bass is non existent.

Double check your speaker settings. All satellites should be set to small, the XO set to 80Hz and the sub set to on. You may be getting just the LFE if your bass management is not setup correctly. Then you wouldn't get any bass in music as it usually doesn't have an LFE channel. On the sub, set the Low Pass to it's max setting.

The new model shows the low pass going to 160. Does yours have the LFE and low level inputs?

If your receiver has a LPF for LFE, set that to 120. If it has a setting for LFE+mains, which you shouldn't see if the mains are set to small, then set it to LFE only.
post #55 of 71
I have a Kappa 210 powered sub. It has two ten inch subs in a very smart looking oak cabinet. The unit is large and heavy. I have hooked it up correctly but have noticed over the years that sometimes movie sounds will come out somewhat distored. I took my sub into a approved Infinity repair facility and they replaced the chip that acts as the amp. However I still sometimes hear the distortion. I have had three different AVRs all Denon with the current unit the 5308CI. Still I have some distortion. I will hear it while watching TV as well. If I send low level signal through to the sub it comes out perfect. I have felt the foam surrounds and they are still soft and pliable. Any ideas as to what I can check for?? I have the sub located in a corner of the room and I have the volume on the sub turned up about 1/3 the way with the frequency turned on all the way. I use the AVR to control the sub.

My thinking is perhaps it is the source either TV or Movie soundtrack. But even when I play a bluray movie with lossless sound I can sometimes pick up distortion. I would really appreciate some ideas here on what I could do to check this out.

Thanks,
Manny
post #56 of 71
So I'm about to buy a SVS PB10-NSD and the picture of the back has both the Low-Level In/Out (Right+Left) as well as two channels of High Level In/Out (Right+Left). So my noob question is why are there High Level inputs if this is a powered sub? Reasons that come to mind are:
  1. to bi-amp your mains
  2. to bi-amp the sub
  3. to use a dedicated amp (sub unplugged)
  4. to let the sub do the crossover

I'm fairly new to the concept of bi-amping so perhaps some of these options don't make any sense, but did I at least hit on one?
post #57 of 71
The speaker level inputs/outputs are there for those with an older AVR or just an amp without a "Sub-out" or "LFE" connection.

Typically you would use your R/L main speakers to the sub from the amp/AVR then on out to the main speakers, using the sub's crossover setting to integrate the sub with the mains.

If you have the LFE out of your AVR/amp, use that connection ONLY.


Bill C
post #58 of 71
I see. So lets say I had an older AVR without a pre-out sub connection and all my speakers & sub have an 8-ohm nominal impedance. If I connect the L/R channels from the AVR to the High Level In on the sub and then from the High Level Out on the sub to the actual L/R speakers, would the AVR see a 4-ohm load?

Speaking of Bi-amping, I now realize that the High Level Out is not internally powered by the sub, but what of the Low Level Out connector? Could I use those to Bi-amp?

Thanks
post #59 of 71
You would only connect the L/R MAINS (FRONT speakers)! NOT the surrounds.

Forget about Bi-amping anything! It has been proven not to do anything but increase the sales of speaker wire.

Bill C
post #60 of 71
What if I have an amp with only a pair of left / right pre-outs rather than a block of 8 preouts with one marked for subwoofer? Should I use a y adapter on both sides (amp side to one wire and sub side back to 2 inputs)? Or can I just use the left pre-out on the amp, one wire, and the left input on the sub?
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