*Official* Denon AVR 1909/789 Thread - Page 357

yes. 6 speakers (3 pairs) is too much for 2 amp channels. at the minimum, get an impedance matching speaker switch and hook up the 3 pairs to the switch, then hook the switch to the Denon's speaker terminals.

or you could just find a cheap receiver on craigslist for $50 and use that for amplification.

Hi,
I just popped back in here looking for exactly this issue. I see this was the last post about the subject, so I wonder if anyone has any insight into this.

Here is my situation:
When using a boxee box (mkvs or bd iso) or using my PS3 for BD, if I pause a movie I usually lose sound after pressing play. I have to fast forward, rewind, press pause, etc...randomly, until the audio comes back. At first I thought it was my boxes box, but since it happens with the PS3 also, it must be a problem with the Denon (using 2 different HDMI inputs). What could be causing this? I believe the blue HD audio light stays on even with no sound, so I can't figure it out.

Thanks!

^^
It seems the issue is resolved if you set the PS3 to LPCM vice bitstream.

I turned off support for all DTS and DD on the ps3, and really noticed that the dialogue wasn't nearly as clear with LPCM. I'm surprised, and this doesn't make sense, they should be the same. I checked my Denon and I've got the old firmware (with the bug) but the strange thing is that the dialogue is better with bitstreaming (which is where the problem is, I think). I didn't know what to do except turn it back to bitstreaming and just mess with ff and rw after every pause until the sound pops back on.

I have a similar issue on my AVR-889 (2309). If I start a Blu-Ray on my LG Blu-Ray player, the audio works fine. Then, when I get past the menus and the real movie starts playing, it flips to uncompessed audio (I get the blue light on the Denon, btw setting is bitstreaming the audio to Denon for processing), and then the audio drops out. So after the actual movie starts, I always have to go and cycle inputs on the Denon to get the HDMI to re-handshake, and the audio comes back.

Besides switching to PCM, any ideas to fix this? Quite annoying.

Is there a Secondary Audio setting? If yes, set it to OFF.

For the DTS-HD cut-out issue, have you guys tried using the mode standard remote button to restore the audio. I often have to use that function with by Sammy BD-UP5000 if I chapter skip or ff/rw. It does not happen on all discs and seems to be studio/mastering dependent. The large studio discs do it more often and the small studio discs hardly ever do it (Summit, Overture, etc.). This happens with my 1909, but did not happen on a 1610 I had for a few weeks. I always thought it was my player, until it did not happen on other AVRs. I suspect this is related to the issue with the PS3 that you describe.

The button is I think on the remote on the bottom under the door (as most useful functions are). I can't recall exactly since I just use my Harmony and have programed a soft button for that and also I have wrote a script for the ^ and v buttons to send the code after the chapter skip so I don't have to push the button all the time.

Mr kludge. Thanks. I'll try that. I don't know where my demon remote is, but I'll program it into my harmony. It is called "mode standard"?

^^
It's the "STD" button, just above the "SIMU" button under the back panel.

Got it. Thanks!

And it is ModeStandard code in the Harmony remote setup program. Also I believe there is a button on the front panel of the 1909/789 that does the same function if you don't have your remote handy or want to take the time to program in the code. I think it is one of the standard codes in the long list of functions that gets loaded into your harmony and you access using the device button.

Thanks for your help, guys/girls....that did the trick!
Now, is this an issue with this model year (xx09), or is it still common. I'm wondering if I upgrade if I'll have to deal with this...it is a pain. Does anyone who keeps up on Denons know if this still happens on the xx12 models?

Not an issue with a 1610, so I assume that it is corrected going forward? You might want to check the ps3 forums to see what other AVRs, if any, have had this issue. I have heard of it rarely, so I think is is an anomaly with the 1909/789 only and only with a small number of devices.

Thanks! Yeah, what led me to realize that it was a Denon issue is that it was happening with my Boxee Box as well. I guess this gives me a reason to upgrade next summer with the xx13s!

Ya, I've been thinking of upgrading also, but there really isn't anything wrong with my 1909 so I'm keeping it until the HDMI board goes out on it, then I will upgrade. The slight inconvenience of restoring audio once in a while outweighs the expense of a new AVR at the moment. Also would be a ton of work to swap out, reconnect stuff and program everything again.

How well do these hold their value? Got one 3 years ago, it has had light use, considering getting rid of it, but I'm just curious how much of its value I can assume it has held. Thanks for any help.

^^
You could probably sell it for about $250.

Hey all, hoping for some advice.

Bought my 789 two and half years ago, new at Circuit City during their demise. A year later my HDMI went out. I was traveling and came back to a inop cable box and no HDMI on my receiver. I suspected a possible lightening strike (???).

Anyway, the shop in Aurora, IL warrantied it. About a year later my center channel would occasionally produce some static and volume would fluctuate a bit. Took it back to Aurora (I live in Denver, but fly for a living), IL only to find out Denon listed a different shop in Lincoln Park that was more convenient to my trip. Still covered by warranty.

He repaired it, citing a "blown center channel amplifier." Now about a year and half later the problem returns and I'm out of warranty coverage. Before I take it in does someone have an estimate on the repair cost? If it's more than a couple hundred I suppose it's time to consider an upgrade... As a side question, I'm running 5.1 in my living room at 8 ohms and just noticed my Zone 2 Kefs are 6 ohm. Does this create a conflict that may result in repeatedly trashing amplifiers?

Thanks for any advice.

Cheers,
Gavin

^^
Repair cost is likely to be at least $200-$300 so better to upgrade to something newer, especially as the 1912 has networking. Give AV Science and Electronics Expo a call for their best pricing as it shouldn't be much more than that. The combination of 6Ω and 8Ω speakers should not cause any problems.

I have an Alienware M17XR2 and a VIZIO 42inch SV370XVT. I am trying to hook the two together via my 789 through the DVD HDMI connection on the back of the 789 so I can stream Netflix to the TV and get the audio out of my 789.

Typically when I connect the M17X via HDMI directly to the VIZIO I immediately see my desktop on the TV. I thought I setup the 789 properly by renaming a quick select button to "STREAMING", setting it to the #1 DVD HDMI and assigning it to HDMI3 but when I connect the M17X to the 789 via HDMI cable and change the VIZIO to HDMI3 I get nothing but a blue screen.

What did I miss or is this not possible?

^^
You likely missing nothing ... rather HTPCs often have issues due to incorrect EDID readings passed through the AVR. Give the solutions suggested in this post, para 12(e) and 12(f), focusing on the EDID override procedure in 12(f).

I just had the dust in the headphone jack issue. A search of this thread sure saved me a lot of time, trouble & $$. Thanks all.

Just sold my 1909 which was in like new mint condition, it really looked like it was just pulled out of the box. The best I could get was $200 on craigslist, this AVR like most audio / video, and computers hardware just doesn't hold its value, if you hold on to it to long, its really a bad investment. You got to flip this stuff every year before the new models and then you just may break even only if you got a great deal when you bought.

I paid $400 new for this unit so its a 50% loss for me.. I would think that $200 is about rock bottem for this unit.

^^
Still better than a computer purchase, which after the same period of time would be almost worthless.

consumer electronics should NEVER be considered an "investment"!

My strategy is to always buy last years model (goes for cars as well) that way you always get the best possible price and if and when you sell it you won't loose that much. If their are features in the new models you just can't live without best to hold out till they go on clearance. I only paid $275 for mine new so only loosing $75 at this point is not that bad. At those buying and selling prices better to hold onto your last avr to use as backup if the new one needs to go I for repair during the warranty period.

The ONLY reason the value is not higher is the HDMI being 1.3 vs 1.4...But as Batpig stated,

JChin, you just saved me hundreds of dollars! I had already bought a new AVR1612 to replace my AVR1909, thinking it was dead. I can't believe your low-tech solution brought it back from the [apparently] dead! Thanks a million! The 1612 is going back to Best Buy tomorrow!

^Hmmm...I have a theory that JChin is the dustbunny and somehow his very existance is dependant on such expressions of gratitude.

Hey, stranger things have happened....

If you cycle through the audio options (in the disk menu), it fixes as well. But again this too is a workaround.
Also as someone mentioned it does not happen with all disks.