*Official* Denon AVR 1909/789 Thread - Page 360

Thank you x2, JD! I didn't know that about the second quotation, and unfortunately, mine doesn't, but a cool feature, for sure.

Again, thanks!

I was having the exact same problem and tried the tip on inserting and removing a headphone jack into the headphone connector and this fixed my sound issue. Is this being caused by dust buildup or what is causing this problem and is there anything you can do to help prevent it? Thank you for your help. This saved me a lot of trouble.

^^
Yes, AFAIK, it is dust build-up which usually presents after a couple of years of ownership (esp. when the headphone jack is not utilized). However, once the fix is done, generally won't present again for awhile.

Does 1909 decode bitstream 7.1 (from BD or Netflix (rare) stream)?

I am trying to decide on a new streaming BD player between the Panasonic DMP BDT 110 and 210.

The BDT 210 has PCM 7.1, which I think means it can decode raw (bitstream?) signal into PCM 7.1 to send to the 1909 (then out to my 7.1 speakers. Do I have this correct?

Is there any advantage (or disadvantage) in having BD player/streamer do the decoding instead of the 1909? Assuming the 1909 CAN decode bitstream, would Audisey prefer the decoding be done by the 1909?

So, does 210's PCM 7.1 and extra cost buy me any advantage?
Thanks

the 1909 can decode any audio format that a movie could possibly have, and will have no limitations with Audyssey whether it's 7.1 bitstream or PCM.

Been a long time since I have been here. Thanks as always for your help.

I was trying to decode the Denon manual, but alas, I could not locate the Denon secret decoding ring. ;o)

Will the 1909 automatically decode bitstream or accept PCM, or are there 1909 setting I need to adjust? If so, where in the manual would I look for those menu settings?

Cool, now I have narrowed my BD player choice down to the Panasonic BD-DMT110. That feels good to settle that.

Thanks Again
PS. the Harmony 670 I got from you a few years ago is still going strong. )

No settings needed. It's auto-magical.

That's ALWAYS the best!

Have a great Sunday evening Batpig.

I think my 1909 bit the dust. Only had it for 2 years. It turns on and I can cruise through the menu on the unit but I get no display to the tv or audio output. I tried the microprocessor reset with no luck.

^^
Try unplugging the AVR for 10 minutes and then plug back in and reset the microprocessor again, ensuring you press/hold the buttons for at least 4-5 seconds before releasing. If still no joy, the AVR has a 2 year warranty if purchased from an authorized reseller, so depending on when you purchased it, it may still be under warranty. If not, and you purchased with a credit card, check with your provider, as they may add an additional year of warranty (Amex does this for sure).

on the bright side, you get to upgrade to a new model now I have a 2309 and am looking at replacing it to get extra HDMI ports and support for 3D.

Thanks jdsmoothie, I will try that. This actually happened a few months ago and it's been sitting unplugged for quite awhile. I just haven't had a chance to mess with it. I'll play with it more tonight. It is definitely out of the 2yr warranty unfortunately.

Hah No, If this is really dead after 2 years I think I'll likely go with a different brand. I'm sure I just got a 1% lemon but I don't want to be fooled twice. Have my eye on the Yamaha 667 or 571 or....Denon 891 (yes, I know what I just said lol).

Edit: Just ordered a Yamaha a700, big river had too good of a price to pass up. If I get the Denon 1909 working it's going straight to craigs'.

I plugged it back in and did the microprocessor reset a couple times last night in between trying a couple different things.

If I have the 1909 connected to the TV by HDMI with nothing else connected, No speakers or sources connected to it, and press the menu button. The on-screen menu should display right?

I also tried using an old composite/rca cable to connect the 1909 to the tv to see if maybe it was just a problem with the HDMI board, but I still didn't get the on-screen menu to display when pushing the menu button. It should display shouldn't it?

The TV detects that there is something connected to its HDMI port because the source (HDMI 1) becomes a selectable option, but when I switch to it it says "No Signal". This was with an xbox 360 connected to the HDMI (VCR) port and dialed into that source. I'll try connecting the xbox by component cable tonight and see if I get any output. But if I can't get the onscreen menu for the 1909 to display I know it is definitely not outputting a signal.

Many posts in this thread have confirmed the manual's fine print: you can't send digital audio to Zone 2. So would it make any sense to use the "Front B" connections instead, if I want to drive a set of stereo speakers in a second room? I don't have a second amp and I have no need to play music in both rooms simultaneously. I just want to switch easily between one room and another.

A little background on my setup: Currently the 1909 is driving a 5.1 home theater with all speakers set to "small," so low bass is handled exclusively by the sub. In a few days I'm expecting a set of 2 larger speakers so I can play stereo music in the next room (without a sub). I suppose if I use the "Front B" connections I'll have to set all the fronts to large, since I don't think I can set A to small and B to large.

My top priority is being able to switch easily between movies in one room and stereo music in the other, via the Quick Select function. (My wife has to be able to do it without touching the other settings! I may even put a color-coded label over the Quick Select button . . .) And I need to prevent the sub from playing in the home theater when I'm listening to 2-channel music in the room next door. If possible, I'd prefer to stick with my digital input rather than switch to analog as required by Zone 2.

Does anyone have thoughts on the ideal connection and settings? Thanks so much!

Front B is your only option if you must pass digital audio.

note that the easiest way to do this (as long as you don't need both playing simultaneously) is to use the "Front Speaker Setup" menu (pg 31 in the manual) to designate the "B" speakers for 2ch modes (DIRECT/STEREO).

if you do this, whenever the receiver is in a multich mode it will play on the normal 5.1 rig in the main room, and if you press the D/ST button to engage stereo or direct mode, it will automatically mute the main zone speakers and activate the 2ch "B" speakers.

then, by going into the "2ch DIRECT/STEREO" menu (pg 33) you can configure the bass management separately for 2ch modes, e.g. setting them to LARGE with no subwoofer.

that will allow you keep them as "small" for main zone with sub playing, and automatically mute the 5.1 setup and activate the "B" speakers as "large" with no sub just by switching to STEREO mode.

Thanks Batpig, that ought to do the trick! I'd missed the instructions in the manual on those 2-channel settings. But I wonder: If I set all stereo and direct playback to go automatically to the B speakers, what happens if I'm watching a DVD movie that just happens to have a stereo soundtrack? Does it go to the wrong room? If that's a problem, I guess I can just switch manually between the A and B speakers (or via Quick Select), and still take the rest of your advice about setting front speakers to "Large" for 2-channel playback.

what matters is that the OUTPUT is multich not the input signal. So in your hypothetical, that 2ch audio from a video source (e.g. old DVD in stereo, standard def channel from the cable box) you would use DOLBY PLII CINEMA to matrix the 2ch input to 5.1 output, and everything is peachy.

Got it, thank you again!

Anyone experience less bass output from only the LEFT channel inputs on their receiver? I just noticed this, only by putting my ear smack dab next to my bass drivers. It's sort of subtle, but not to audiophiles. I tried everything from switching cables around, and for some reason, only the LEFT input, including the "amp assign/surround" LEFT input produces less bass.

?

is Audyssey on or off? there could be a different correction filter for the left vs. right main channels.

it is certainly not a problem that anyone has ever reported, and frankly this is really something that you would have to measure to demonstrate. TONS of variables involved.

also I am still somewhat confused as to what the exact problem is, for example "including the "amp assign/surround" LEFT input" makes no sense, there is no INPUT that is labeled "amp assign", that is an OUTPUT.

I tried everything from Audyssey on/off, Direct mode, Stereo, etc. The louder and deeper the bass material, the more pronounced the differentiation, though again, no one could tell listening from sitting on your couch...I have to put my ear next to the side-firing woofer which is close to the floor.

Everything I tried, the problem follows the LEFT terminal in the back of the receiver. Yes, there are terminals for "Surr back/Amp assign", which I use for Bi-amping my 2 fronts. (I have tried NOT bi-amping to see if problem still exists and it does)

Since new, I have experienced a couple minor quality issues with the Denon, like the volume control not stepping up/down incrementally evenly like it should, which makes volume adjustment a little tricky. So I wouldn't be surprised if something's wrong with the LEFT output internally with the Denon.

I've definitely isolated this to the Denon 1909.

I have a little Zotac nano with XBMC on it. At all other resolutions, it's fine. But at 1080p60, when going through the Denon 1909, I get sparklies.

I've simply removed the Denon from the equation by leaving everything else the same and just bypassing the Denon, and I get no sparklies. I even used the same cables and just put an HDMI coupler in the middle, so I know it's not the cables.

Any ideas? Is this a common problem with the 1909 and 1080p60x32? Is it time to upgrade?

Thanks in advance for any help... I've spent many hours diagnosing this, until it occurred to me it might be the Denon.

^^
Sparkles generally means an issue with the cable ... just because it works without issue bypassing the AVR doesn't always mean there isn't an issue with the cable .... try replacing it.

Okay. I figured out finally what was going on with mine...

It was the Denon, only no defect...I found out (after 3 years of ownership) that when I perform the Audyssey auto setup, which employs the microphone, it automatically sets the EQ for each channel. On my set up, I saw the graphs for L and R, and the RIGHT channel's bass was adjusted much lower than the LEFT's.

The only way to get around this is to not use Audyssey

I now have it set to Audyssey: manual, which employs the manual EQ, which I set myself. Problem solved.

Electronic Laboratory in Pompano Beach, FL just told me I don't need the firmware update. From what I have read here I definitely have the AVR 1909 with the bug.

They said my problem is probably the earphone jack.

What in the hell are they talking about?

^^
The headphone jack issue results in intermittent or loss of audio all together so not sure what they mean if you believe your only issue is "boomy bass" with bitstreamed lossy DD/DTS audio. However, as your unit is likely out of warranty, even a firmware update is likely to cost at least $75. You may be better off avoiding the issue by simply letting the player decode the lossy DD/DTS to PCM rather than sending bitstream to the AVR.

I am interested in getting wireless headphones for this receiver. Once connected will the speakers be turned off? Is there a way to have the headphones and the regular speakers working at the same time?

Thanks

^^
Depends. If you plug them into the headphone jack, then yes, speakers get turned off. If you plug them into the VCR Out jacks or Zone 2 preouts, then no. Simply connect the source you want to listen to with analog RCA cables (as well as HDMI for the surround speakers) and when that source is selected in the main zone, or if it is selected for Zone 2, you'll also hear the audio in the headphones.

WHY would you want BOTH at the SAME time??? Pretty much defeats the purpose of headphone usage...