or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Receivers, Amps, and Processors › *Official* Denon AVR 1909/789 Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

*Official* Denon AVR 1909/789 Thread - Page 366

post #10951 of 11322
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

^^
Try programming in a longer delay for the TV to fully power ON before powering on the AVR.

I added the delays but it didn't fix the problem. Any other ideas?
post #10952 of 11322
^^
Are you waiting an additional few seconds before powering on the source after powering on the AVR?

You also might want to try an HDMI HDCP reset ---> http://www.avsforum.com/t/1334369/the-official-denon-avr-xx12-model-owners-thread/0_50#user_L11
post #10953 of 11322
I leave the Fios box on all the time. The Harmony One powers on the TV and then the AVR. It just started doing this a week ago. Until then it was fine.
post #10954 of 11322
^^
Understood. However, try rebooting the Fios box and see if that resolves your issue.
post #10955 of 11322
Hey guys, I've had my 1909 for a bit over 3 years now. Just recently started having an issue when switching channels with Directv HR23 receiver. There is a very long delay (~5 seconds) with a black screen when I switch channels. Occasionally the switch is quick and the video/sound is there, but after a couple seconds it still goes blank. I haven't changed my setup at all, I reset the HR23, made sure "Native" mode is off and nothing helps. If I connect the satellite box straight to the TV (bypassing the 1909) the issue goes away. Any ideas on what is causing this and how I might fix it?

Thanks for any help, this is driving me nuts.
post #10956 of 11322
Quote:
Originally Posted by acurax View Post

Any ideas on what is causing this and how I might fix it?
Thanks for any help, this is driving me nuts.

Hi acurax, read this here.
post #10957 of 11322
I posted the same question just recently. It seems that DirecTV sent a firmware upgrade that is causing all these issues. Its happening to lots of us with Denon recievers.
post #10958 of 11322
Thanks fellas! Hopefully this is resolved soon. Appreciate the info.
post #10959 of 11322
Set-up update. Got my new center and sub Monday and set it up Tuesday morning. Took me a while but I got my sub trim at 0db, 1st time I have been able to pull that off. I do need to clean things up, re-aim some speakers etc. but it should be ok for now. I have ran into one issue, which I don't think is much of a problem. For some reason when I only calibrate position 1 the sub measures out just about exactly how far it is away. But when I do all six positions it measures ~4-5' CLOSER than it really is. Not a great difference, but I want to work on that. It is probably since I have it kinda in a corner. I can't put it right in the corner and don't really want it there. I know that bass output is better in a corner, but there is plenty of bass output so far. I tried out some scenes in How to Train Your Dragon that caused my old Yammy sub to bottom out and did not have any issues with the new sub.

I am used to my old sub measuring out at double+ distance due to the delay with the xover and processing etc. But I am not used to the sub measuring out closer than it actually is. Is this much of a problem? I will check the Aud. guide and refresh myself again.

I must say that the new center is much, much, much better than the old Bose. The 1909 did a very good job at rounding out the rough edges, but it is hard to make a silk purse out of a sows ear. The Bose had better low end by a smidgen, but the combo of the new center and sub seems to work well. The overall sound of the system is much better and I knew it would be. The boss will be away with some stuff Thursday night and also most of the weekend so I'm going to have to crank it up and see what I get.

BTW - for those wondering I had to set the volume knob at just about 10 o'clock give or take to arrive at a zero trim. The gain on this sucker is much greater than the old one. 12 o'clock gets me a -6 which was way off by my standards and 9 O'clock got me +6 if I remember. A little change on that dial makes a big difference, much more than the other one. I like to have things as close to 0 as possible. My other 7 channels are all over the place, but well within and not close to any max levels. I think my FR is clocking in at 10.5 and all the others are way under +10 except for FL which is presently at +9.5. Oh and the center is now at a more tame +6 rather than the almost maxed out trim that the Bose had. I know it does not matter what Aud. puts the trims at, but still I don't like to see high levels. I think my next upgrade is going to be floor standing fronts that can double for music listening. Def. Tech makes some that look pretty good.

I can't really comment on the sub until I get a chance to watch Star Wars and some more recent released with insane soundtracks. Any suggestions on titles to try. I haven't really paid attention to the movies with ultra low bass since my old sub was so wimpy (actually it was pretty good, but for some reason would bottom out and slam around with very low intense notes and LFE

Also, even though these were S-n-D stock from Crutchfield the units themselves are flawless. The boxes however look like they have been to heck and back. Nothing seems damaged, blemished etc. and came complete with all the original paperwork, hardware and packing material etc. They don't seem used much at all if any and I suspect they may have been demo stock or a buyers remorse return? Not bad for an under $13 investment.
post #10960 of 11322
Okay boys and girls... I am taking the plunge of upgrading my AVR-1909...but not in the way some may think. Rather than replacing my unit, (which most take as 'upgrading') I will be doing an extreme makover on my current unit. Since the AVR-1909 has been a very solid unit for these past few years, and really does have the power needed and the options I want to retain, I have chosen to go off the deep end and perform my own mods to turn what could best be catagorized as 'run of the mill' or 'so-so' audio performance from the analog side, I will be doing an entire signal path capacitor upgrade to ELNA SILMIC II (undoubtedly the sweetest sounding capacitor sold today, in comparison to the cheapest SAMYOUNG on the market) and TI\Burr-Brown OPA-1602 op amps (ultra low noise 2.5nV/√Hz at 1kHz, with THD @ 0.00003% and slew rates at 20V/μs vs. the fairly noisy 0.56μV/√Hz at 1kHz, 0.001% THD and slew of 6V/μs JRC offering) throughout. This should bring THD levels down from what is a mediocre 0.08% to a very respectable level of audiophile quality of in the region of 0.0005% or better, and slew rates that can and more than likely will stomp even the most expensive of AVR offerings. What has prompted this insanity is the raunchy, tinny and dead SACD performance in the analog chain in Direct mode. However, this will also greatly improve all of the digital path as well. Now to plug in the WaveTek...... I can't wait to get this done this weekend and hear it. (yes, the SONY SACD is getting the same treatment, and is even worse and was originally fitted with STMicro 4558's) And all of this for less than $70.00 in parts, including shipping...
Edited by DMBox - 6/14/12 at 5:48pm
post #10961 of 11322
Quote:
Originally Posted by DMBox View Post

Okay boys and girls... I am taking the plunge of upgrading my AVR-1909...but not in the way some may think. Rather than replacing my unit, (which most take as 'upgrading') I will be doing an extreme makover on my current unit. Since the AVR-1909 has been a very solid unit for these past few years, and really does have the power needed and the options I want to retain, I have chosen to go off the deep end and perform my own mods to turn what could best be catagorized as 'run of the mill' or 'so-so' audio performance from the analog side, I will be doing an entire signal path capacitor upgrade to ELNA SILMIC II (undoubtedly the sweetest sounding capacitor sold today, in comparison to the cheapest SAMYOUNG on the market) and TI\Burr-Brown OPA-1602 op amps (ultra low noise 2.5nV/√Hz at 1kHz, with THD @ 0.00003% and slew rates at 20V/μs vs. the fairly noisy 0.56μV/√Hz at 1kHz, 0.001% THD and slew of 6V/μs JRC offering) throughout. This should bring THD levels down from what is a mediocre 0.08% to a very respectable level of audiophile quality of in the region of 0.0005% or better, and slew rates that can and more than likely will stomp even the most expensive of AVR offerings. What has prompted this insanity is the raunchy, tinny and dead SACD performance in the analog chain in Direct mode. However, this will also greatly improve all of the digital path as well. Now to plug in the WaveTek...... I can't wait to get this done this weekend and hear it. (yes, the SONY SACD is getting the same treatment, and is even worse and was originally fitted with STMicro 4558's) And all of this for less than $70.00 in parts, including shipping...

I will be looking forward to the report on how easy/difficult this was and the improvement in sound quality. I am tempted at the Amazon deal of the day for the 3312Ci at $550. More HDMI including a front jack and some other features would be nice. Even has a phono jack, but has one major flaw, no analog ins. I'm too scotch to upgrade my SACD/DVD-Audio player, but eventually I will end up with some kind of Oppo to replace it and then I can upgrade from the 1909. I hardly ever use the analog section anyhow so no big deal. I would however find myself wanting to listen to my large SACD and DVD-Audio collection if I were to upgrade the AVR and not be able to play them anymore. I may be interested be interested in doing the same mods on my 1909 since it has plenty of power for me, I like it and it was cheep. I could buy 2 of them for todays price of the 3312 compared to what I paid.
post #10962 of 11322
It's been a while since I had read/reviewed the Aud. FAQ. Much improved with info on many things I have wondered about over the years. I had the carpets cleaned yesterday and now have to put things back together and re-calibrate etc. I am hoping to get the distance on the new sub correct without having to do too may calibrations. I am curious why most of the time the distance is correct, but the other day when I did all the positions it messed up. None of the conditions listed are applicable to me. Area is way quiet, even during the day and there is no spurious noise etc. It may be since the Def. Tech has a passive radiator that points to the floor with a front facing woofer? My old sub was way consistent with levels and distance with almost all of the calibrations I have done. It has a large amount of delay so it always clocked in about double the distance.

What has been the experience of others that have the ProSub 1000 and distance? Tonight if it clocks in short, I'm going to force the actual distance into it and see how it sounds. It sounds fine being set a few feet short...but I'm a perfectionist. Like I said I did probably 3-4 "sweet spot" calibrations and I think all but one of those clocked in at the actual distance, give or take a smidgen. I know that delay will cause it to clock in long, but coming up short is a concern. I use a very good tripod and the floor is carpet on concrete and my three initial measurements are with the pod on the couch and the next two in front of the couch and the last behind it. My understanding is that distance is only supposed to be set with the initial measurement and only EQ, channel level etc. are tweaked to fit the "bubble". I need to dive back into the FAQ before I do this again tonight (assuming that the carpets are dry, they were not before I went to bed last night).
post #10963 of 11322
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.kludge View Post

It sounds fine being set a few feet short...but I'm a perfectionist. Like I said I did probably 3-4 "sweet spot" calibrations and I think all but one of those clocked in at the actual distance, give or take a smidgen. I know that delay will cause it to clock in long, but coming up short is a concern. I use a very good tripod and the floor is carpet on concrete and my three initial measurements are with the pod on the couch and the next two in front of the couch and the last behind it. My understanding is that distance is only supposed to be set with the initial measurement and only EQ, channel level etc. are tweaked to fit the "bubble". I need to dive back into the FAQ before I do this again tonight (assuming that the carpets are dry, they were not before I went to bed last night).

A note on subs that may give you a little insight. If the Aud. cal is coming up totally wrong with it's sub calc, you are getting reflected waves returning to the cal mic which may upset it's ability to judge distance. I too have a ProSub-1000 and love it, however I have heard of cases where a passive radiator time alignment can fool Aud. calc, and I have found that to be true on mains w/powered subs that have passives on the side of the cabinet. Keep in mind a couple of things. One, carpet is not a subs friend, especially a floor firing passive radiator like the ProSub-1000, contrary to popular belief. Most studios have wood covered floors with a carpet here and there to save wear and tear. Second, treatment of a room for subs and the placement of them plays a crucial role. I actually use a very large ceramic 2' x 2' tile underneath mine. Concerning placement, I use my iPhone and a free wave generator and sweep at low volume levels from 20~80Hz and set at the mic location, (better said, seating location) and you will, if you are plagued by standing waves, a frequency or a range of them which varies greatly in volume. move the sub to another location and keep trying this until you have found your rooms 'sweet spot' where the sweep sound the best with no major volume peaks or dips. If you cannot find a good placement point, then room treatment might be required.

In smaller rooms, a wave can bounce off the rear wall and collide with the next oncoming wave, and that some times ends up being the mic location or close to that point. Aud. cal will attempt to overcome the standing wave or placement of sub by using complex calcs to 'tune' the distance to have the wave arrive at the correct time. Remember, Aud. calc knows nothing of distance, it operates in the time realm. It's all about time, not distance. If carpet is a must in the room, (which it is in my home theater room) you can use treatements at the corners of the room, and even maybe heavy drapery as adornment on the back wall, (if you have a better-half, let her select fabric color and design) or on side walls, as long as you find something to break up the wave. Always setup your system's symmetry at 90 degree angles to the room, not at 45 degree angles. (I'm not speaking of 'pointing' the mains or rears for example, but the overall setup)
Edited by DMBox - 6/15/12 at 10:06am
post #10964 of 11322
Thanks much for the insight and advice. I had only about an hour to set up my new center and sub the other morning and hurried through things so who knows what happened. None of the issues mentioned pertain to my room. It is a large room and I only use a little over 1/3 of my "man cave" for the theater. I would expect reflections to be longer in time if they were reflecting off the back wall and actually in my case carpet is my friend. The HT is directly below our walk-in closet and bathroom and the boss complains about the bass (she actually hates the effects that bass does to her, interesting dynamics since I am a bass freak and she would prefer none). So having the carpet dampen things a little before it hits the corners and up to our is a good thing for me. Years ago when my 1909 suffered from the boomy bass issue and my daughter was still at home in our old house the bass was much more intense in her room directly above the HT than in the HT itself. She thanked me when I got it fixed since it no longer rocked her bedroom late at night (even set to midnight). I thought that it was poorly mastered TV sound, which was part of it and also that TV is mixed lower so Aud. would would reduce its affects somewhat and boost output making things even worse. Movies generally always sounded great since I always use HD codecs if possible and available on the soundtracks. Anyhow I digress. I am confident that my calibration this evening will be fine. And a bonus the boss is out running a 2-day race and won't be home until later tomorrow. I might have to glue the fur back on the cat after this evening ;-)
post #10965 of 11322
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.kludge View Post

I will be looking forward to the report on how easy/difficult this was and the improvement in sound quality. I am tempted at the Amazon deal of the day for the 3312Ci at $550. More HDMI including a front jack and some other features would be nice. Even has a phono jack, but has one major flaw, no analog ins. I'm too scotch to upgrade my SACD/DVD-Audio player, but eventually I will end up with some kind of Oppo to replace it and then I can upgrade from the 1909. I hardly ever use the analog section anyhow so no big deal. I would however find myself wanting to listen to my large SACD and DVD-Audio collection if I were to upgrade the AVR and not be able to play them anymore. I may be interested be interested in doing the same mods on my 1909 since it has plenty of power for me, I like it and it was cheep. I could buy 2 of them for todays price of the 3312 compared to what I paid.

The OPPO is way too rich for my blood, although they did a fine job in the 83SE analog chain. (they used quality op amps in unison to drive them into class 'A' operation, but really is unrequired if you are not trying to drive headphones with it's output) My older SONY DVD/CD/SACD player really does have a pretty good transport and feature set, and SONY is the designer of SACD and their CXD-2753 DSD chip in mine is a top notch choice for SACD. However, SACD cannot be sent over TOSLINK or S/PDIF, and they used the cheapest of the cheap in it's analog path. I'm very certain the upgrade the SONY will yield the exact resolution I am seeking for my SACD woes.
post #10966 of 11322
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.kludge View Post

Thanks much for the insight and advice. I had only about an hour to set up my new center and sub the other morning and hurried through things so who knows what happened. None of the issues mentioned pertain to my room. It is a large room and I only use a little over 1/3 of my "man cave" for the theater. I would expect reflections to be longer in time if they were reflecting off the back wall and actually in my case carpet is my friend. The HT is directly below our walk-in closet and bathroom and the boss complains about the bass (she actually hates the effects that bass does to her, interesting dynamics since I am a bass freak and she would prefer none). So having the carpet dampen things a little before it hits the corners and up to our is a good thing for me. Years ago when my 1909 suffered from the boomy bass issue and my daughter was still at home in our old house the bass was much more intense in her room directly above the HT than in the HT itself. She thanked me when I got it fixed since it no longer rocked her bedroom late at night (even set to midnight). I thought that it was poorly mastered TV sound, which was part of it and also that TV is mixed lower so Aud. would would reduce its affects somewhat and boost output making things even worse. Movies generally always sounded great since I always use HD codecs if possible and available on the soundtracks. Anyhow I digress. I am confident that my calibration this evening will be fine. And a bonus the boss is out running a 2-day race and won't be home until later tomorrow. I might have to glue the fur back on the cat after this evening ;-)

Just remember, one half of the ProSub-1000's effective radiator surface area is lost when fired into carpet. Just sayin'
post #10967 of 11322
Posted under the Energy thread but now think I should have dropped the question here.

Sub woofer not working - no sound.

AVR-789 and Energy Take Classic

Front, center and surround speakers are working. Sub is connected with a male - male like these.

I just finished running in-wall speaker wire for the front and surrounds. The sub worked before I removed everything from the room. I took pictures of the back of the AVR to make sure I reconnected all wires properly so I am frustrated why the sub is not working. Power is on, cable is connected from sub left to AVR Pre Out. I don't think I changed any settings on the AVR.

Any suggestions???
post #10968 of 11322
Quote:
Originally Posted by darkerhelmet View Post

Posted under the Energy thread but now think I should have dropped the question here.
Sub woofer not working - no sound.
AVR-789 and Energy Take Classic
Front, center and surround speakers are working. Sub is connected with a male - male.
I just finished running in-wall speaker wire for the front and surrounds. The sub worked before I removed everything from the room. I took pictures of the back of the AVR to make sure I reconnected all wires properly so I am frustrated why the sub is not working. Power is on, cable is connected from sub left to AVR Pre Out. I don't think I changed any settings on the AVR.
Any suggestions???

First, try another known good cable. If you don't have one long enough, move the sub close to the AVR and connect. There are so many variables, but usually it is something simple. Good luck in your quest...
post #10969 of 11322
HA DMBox I was just getting ready to post a reply!

No offense to any Monster Cable lovers out there, but Monster quality strikes again. I actually searched Amazon and a few other sites before posting the link for the Monster Cable I was using to connect my Energy sub woofer to my AVR. I saw a lot of bad reviews and thought, c'mon people, not everything is perfect. Well turns out I am now a believer - Monster Cable is way over priced and typically sucks. Buy generic and save your money for dog food.

Drove down to the local Radio Shock, picked up a generic male-male cable for about 3 bucks, plugged it into my sub and BAM! The Creed CD I left in the player earlier for testing almost pushed my hand, which I placed under the sub, through the floor.
post #10970 of 11322
Quote:
Originally Posted by darkerhelmet View Post

HA DMBox I was just getting ready to post a reply!
No offense to any Monster Cable lovers out there, but Monster quality strikes again. I actually searched Amazon and a few other sites before posting the link for the Monster Cable I was using to connect my Energy sub woofer to my AVR. I saw a lot of bad reviews and thought, c'mon people, not everything is perfect. Well turns out I am now a believer - Monster Cable is way over priced and typically sucks. Buy generic and save your money for dog food.
Drove down to the local Radio Shock, picked up a generic male-male cable for about 3 bucks, plugged it into my sub and BAM! The Creed CD I left in the player earlier for testing almost pushed my hand, which I placed under the sub, through the floor.

I'm glad you found what I had suspected. Concerning cables, OFC cable hype and Monster's slick marketing ploys do extract untold dollars from folks pockets. However, there are differences in cables. A cables construction and velocity factor and true gauge do play a role in how a cable perfoms. Most good quality cables do cost more, but the Carnival Barker sales ploys do prove P.T. Barnum's words, (eloquently called the 'Barnum effect' by psychologists) to be true that, "There's a sucker born every minute"
post #10971 of 11322
I apologize for if this is the wrong way to post to the 1909 thread, but previous 'new thread' try got me under Amps (not 1909).

I think I fried my LFE channel on my 1909! redface.gif(

I was threading a (now unused) subwoofer cable back thru an electrical outlet box and the metal end touched the screws on the side of the (120v) electrical outlet. Immediately a loud hum was coming from my two remaining sub woofers. Note: AVR 1909 was in normal standby (off) when this occurred. Plugging the sub(s) from the sub outlet on the 1909 gets a loud hum. UNplug from LFE output on 1909 and no hum from subs. To test the sub, I did plug the Paradigm 15" sub into a second (old Sony 5.1) receiver I use for outside speakers, and the green power light did come on on front. I was tuned to a radio station, which I am not sure if that would out put and LFE signal?? I could not tell if there was sound from the sub or not.

Crap, did I fry my 1909's LFE channel? If so, any idea if this is repairable? Did I maybe fry my nice Paradigm sub too? I did post to Denon's support thread yesterday, but no word back yet.

( posted a similar question yesterday to the parent amp thread and got no response, so thought I'd come to my old stomping grounds here on the 1909 thread.)
post #10972 of 11322
Hmm...I am sure the output might be more if I did not have carpet, but I like carpet and not willing to change that. Output is way adequate, in fact it is a good thing that my new house is well insulated and built. If I had done what I did this weekend at my old house I'm sure the neighbors would have been complaining about the noise. While playing the Blue Man Group concert I went upstairs to do something or the other in the middle of the night and throughout the entire house I could hear all the music and bass just fine. I am way happy with my set-up now. Once I can get some better front channels for better music playback things should be just about perfect. I am still getting used to my new found very easy to hear dialogue from the new center. What a difference. I wish I had the room in front of the TV for a larger center, but that will have to wait for later on when I re-do the furniture and get a better audio cabinet. I knew the Bose was bad, but....

I think I did 3 Aud. calibrations. I was somewhat happy with the first that I listed to a whole lot of loud music with and sampled a bunch of movies with low bass and intense LFE and watched a movie I got from Redbox. I did another and was not happy with the results due to the seat positions I chose. I have finally settled on one I did Saturday morning after I got up at 10a after being up until 5:30 or so (24 hours without sleep). Every time I do all positions my sub clocks in at ~7' and it is actually more like 12' away. When I do just the first position it clocks in at just under 12'. I did everything Saturday morning to insure that nothing was interfering and I can only think that the passive radiator is what is causing this along with sub placement and and some other factors. I don't understand why the main position only always works. Perhaps it was just dumb luck those 3 times I did that to get a feel and dial in the sub. I have settled on -3.5 so I can crank it and still have plenty of room to turn it down if needed. I think I bumped the control when moving it for the carpet cleaners and I have placed it closer to the wall and to a bookcase that is in the corner. The cal. I did 2nd was because I could not figure out why the sub dialed in at -4 when it had been 0.0. The control on that sub is way sensitive and a very slight change makes a big difference.

I just added a few feet to the sub. distance and things sound just fine. With it set at what it measured it did not sound right at all. I did not think that a few feet there would make a detectible difference, but it does.

I am also way happy with the sub. I played a bunch of stuff that the old Yammy would bottom out on and slam around. I heard nothing like that from the Pro Sub and even at reference volume I did not hear any ill effects etc. I however could not take reference volume for very long. I have a somewhat largeish room, at least by my standards, but it is not so large that I need to go out and buy a more powerful AVR. The 1909 even at -10 to -20 is plenty loud. I have found that late at night that -40 to -45 is plenty to hear everything including dialogue just fine. I can even turn dynamic volume off now and actually hear the center. Something I could not do with the Bose at all.

Someone please remind me. I don't think the 1909 has a dynamic eq/volume or reference level offset. I think I recall to accomplish the same thing you just lower the source volume by the same amount of what you would set for the offset in order to fool Aud. since you have to turn up the volume to attain the same sound level? Correct? Then you can tame out the effect of dynamic EQ and possibly some of Dynamic Volume?
post #10973 of 11322
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.kludge View Post

Someone please remind me. I don't think the 1909 has a dynamic eq/volume or reference level offset

Hi mr.kludge, don't believe 1909 have reference level offset but it does have dynamic eq & volume (Menu -> Parameter -> Audyssey Settings).
post #10974 of 11322
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.kludge View Post

Hmm...I am sure the output might be more if I did not have carpet, but I like carpet and not willing to change that. Output is way adequate, in fact it is a good thing that my new house is well insulated and built.

It's not about the volume of the output, per se, it's about wave propagation, time alignment and design of the sub. You're decoupling the relationship of the passive radiator and it's design firing it into carpet. That's why I use a sound reflective material under mine, (2' x 2' ceramic tile) because I too have wall to wall carpet. In fact, you may be able to reduce gain and enjoy the same sound pressure levels desired which would reduce your problem. I worked for Altec-Lansing (there is a reason they were acclaimed 'Voice of the Theater') here in OKC for a decade and know from an engineering and sound perspective what I'm saying here. Floor fired passive radiators NEED to be fired off of a hard surface...its half of your sub. If this method is objectionable to you, then you need to find a different design like a sealed box, ported, slot loaded, transmission line, side or rear fired passive...or possibly finding a way to elevate your sub away from the carpet a foot or so.

I would still suggest a low frequency sweep as stated before to help you in your placement, and you are correct in that small adjustments will make a difference to your ears...your brain does have an amazing way of doing that. Good luck...
Edited by DMBox - 6/18/12 at 7:03am
post #10975 of 11322
Quote:
Originally Posted by davekro View Post

Crap, did I fry my 1909's LFE channel? If so, any idea if this is repairable? Did I maybe fry my nice Paradigm sub too?

Dave, running any low voltage cables in the same conduit/box that has 120v is VERY dangerous and unsafe, and violates building codes.

Did you damage the AVR-1909? Yes. Can it be repaired? More than likely. But who knows what you have damaged. It would have to opened up and bench tested. It could range from a single cap @ $0.30 or as severe as the input board and HDMI board costing you hundreds. I have no idea about your sub.

Best of luck to you...
Edited by DMBox - 6/18/12 at 4:47am
post #10976 of 11322
Quote:
Originally Posted by JChin View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.kludge View Post

Someone please remind me. I don't think the 1909 has a dynamic eq/volume or reference level offset

Hi mr.kludge, don't believe 1909 have reference level offset but it does have dynamic eq & volume (Menu -> Parameter -> Audyssey Settings).

the Ref Level Offset setting was introduced on the xx10 models.

mr. kludge -- yes, you can accomplish the same thing using the source level (input trim) setting as I describe in my FAQ: http://batpigworld.com/fadq.html#audyssey

this offset only affects Dynamic EQ, not Dynamic Volume (although because Dyn Vol layers "on top" of Dyn EQ it will sound different after adjustment). If you lower the input level, you will have to turn up the volume more making Dyn EQ less "aggressive" in its boosting of freq response and surround volume.
post #10977 of 11322
DMBox,
Thanks for the reply. I guess I'll look for a local Denon repair facility to have it checked out.

Thanks, Dave
post #10978 of 11322
Quote:
Originally Posted by DMBox View Post

Dave, running any low voltage cables in the same conduit/box that has 120v is VERY dangerous and unsafe, and violates building codes.
Did you damage the AVR-1909? Yes. Can it be repaired? More than likely. But who knows what you have damaged. It would have to opened up and bench tested. It could range from a single cap @ $0.30 or as severe as the input board and HDMI board costing you hundreds. I have no idea about your sub.
Best of luck to you...

DMBox,
The AVR seems to work as usual (right sound coming from the right places ;o), except for the LOUD hum from the LFE channel. Might that info rule out problems with "the input board and HDMI board costing you hundreds"? If damage was limited to the LFE circuit, any guesses as to what parts might be affected and associated price range to get repaired? The closest 'authorized' Denon repair facilities are 45 miles away and charge $100 and $110 respectively to check it out. I have a call in to a somewhat closer repair place recommended by a local AV shop. I am trying to avoid spending $100 to find out the repair would cost $500 when I paid ≈$700 in 2008.

Thanks,
Dave
post #10979 of 11322
Quote:
Originally Posted by davekro View Post

Might that info rule out problems with "the input board and HDMI board costing you hundreds"? If damage was limited to the LFE circuit, any guesses as to what parts might be affected and associated price range to get repaired?

Simple answer, 'nope'. Until you get it opened and a tech to examine it, you can 'rule out' nothing. I'm sorry dude, but please don't ask me to diagnose and repair your AVR without the benefit of examining it with test equipment on the bench. I cannot see electrons in your AVR from here. (grin) I don't mean to be repetative, but I already told you what parts might be affected.
Edited by DMBox - 6/18/12 at 1:28pm
post #10980 of 11322
Quote:
Originally Posted by DMBox View Post

Simple answer, 'nope'. Until you get it opened and a tech to examine it, you can 'rule out' nothing. I'm sorry dude, but please don't ask me to diagnose and repair your AVR without the benefit of examining it with test equipment on the bench. I cannot see electrons in your AVR from here. (grin) I don't mean to be repetative, but I already told you what parts might be affected.

DMBox,
Well I appreciate the heads up to prepare me for more than a simple fix. Sorry for the repeat inquiry. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. It has been helpful. You know the stages of mourning (for doing something dumb that will cost you!). 1)Denial, 2)Anger, 3)Bargaining, 4)Depression, 5)Acceptance.
Well, you have helped me get through 1 & 3 and working on 5. I guess my inquiries here were stage 1 & 2. ;o)

Thanks again for your time and willingness to share your knowledge.

Dave
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Receivers, Amps, and Processors
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Receivers, Amps, and Processors › *Official* Denon AVR 1909/789 Thread