*Official* Denon AVR 1909/789 Thread - Page 283

You don't need a battery back-up for your AVR , The same money is better spent on all surge protection. Buy the best one you can afford .. I can't really tell whats good or bad , so far all of the ones I have are working good and none have failed me, I have off brand cheapos and high priced name brands , but going with the best you can buy is cheap insurance in the long run. Maybe buy the one the LOCAL retailer likes, this way if something goes bad you can throw it in someones face !! I looked into the BIG GUYS $10000000000.00 hardware Replacement / Repair Guarantee this how it works, You send the protection unit back to them , the maker , they test it , if it passes THIER test you are out of luck !!! Not Good !!!!

+1

At the very least, get something with EMI/RFI filtering. Compare joule ratings and look at the warranty provided for damaged equipment.

Sure I paid a decent amount for my monster but that was because I had the stipulation of needing it to be rack-mountable. Throw in the fact that the deal amazon had going was cheaper than anything comparable and it was a no brainer to me. Sure I think monster stuff is over hyped and not worth the premium often charged for it, but I am also not going to say that they make junk, especially when it comes to their power equipment.

Please read my updated last post for more info..

Granted, your chances of actually cashing in are not that great, just another number to take into consideration. I would in no way base your decision solely on it.

Another thing, pick it up (if we are still talking just surge protectors), if it has some heft to it compared to other models it is probably made with better components. Maybe look at cyberpower and tripp lite models, they seem to make decent stuff for the money.

Does anybody know what remote code to try to control my Samsung bd-p3600 blu ray player with my 1909 remote? The crazy crazy manual does not list any Samsung blu ray or DVD codes in it. Thanks

I believe the code is "H_A_R_M_O_N_Y"

LOL..! I know! I am am waiting until my B_I_R_T_H_D_A_Y to hit my wife up for one and then swipe all your setup stuff! BTW, thanks Batpig, your posts and expertise has made my AVR something I love when it SO wants to be hated.
Seriously, though, until harmony happens, I would like to try and get this trap door working.

Tripp lite and APC are old names in this field , I would say a good choice for starters , cyberpower is ok , I know someone who has one , good for the money.

funny you should say that, because I just scored a used one from my work. I think it was attached to a server or something. anyway, it has good spec's, even has the AVR that was mentioned.
Link.

Not sure what you consider "out of my budget" as IMHO a quality surge protector/line filter/conditioner is one of the most important pieces in my setup considering the total cost of all the equipment it is protecting. I use the Belkin PF60 and am pleased with the power filtering it provides. It comes with a 10' cable that is about 3/4" thick, weighs about as much as the 1909!


Have you tried all of the Samsung codes listed for other components? I'd also check the codes listed in the 1910 remote code guide here.

My quick 2 cnts on surge protection. After the warranty was long gone on my monster cable unit it died. I gave them a call hoping to get it repaired. They gave me a return number and said send it back and we'll send You a new one. That's customer service. Their cables are too high but Power Centers can be crucial.

I just got some Energy speakers, (RC-mini, RC-10s, C-100s) and a Denon 1909. I am ready to hook everything up and wanted to know what your advice would be on some banana plugs and wire? Does the type of wire and plug matter to much? Does the size really matter? It will be a fairly small room, so the length wont be too much. Will either run along the wall or ceiling.
So can you suggest a set of banana plugs and speaker wire?

banana plugs will be very helpful on the receiver side, because the binding posts are spaced so tightly. on the speaker side, they are really optional, just if like the convenience / aesthetics.

so I would grab 10 banana plugs (2 each for 5 speakers to connect to the back of the AVR):
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

and then some 16-gauge speaker wire:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

there is no need for anything heavier than 16-gauge in a small room, it will do 30-40 feet no problem with your easy 8-ohm speakers. frankly, for short runs you can get away with 18-gauge but the 16-gauge is so friggin' cheap you may as well spend an extra two dollars or whatever. you can bookmark this handy speaker wire chart for future reference:
http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm#wiretable

Interesting read about speaker wire BP. I bottle wine for a living. Many studies have proven the perceived quality or lack there of, is directly related to the price. The more it costs the better it will taste. People are funny animals huh?

Ron

need some reassurance from the experts

i just bought an Energy s10.3 sub (great deal from vann's). my dilemma is that audyssey set the sub distance at around 25 ft. i kinda know (from reading some prior posts) that this 'distance' is more of acoustic. but i feel that it's quite far for a sub that is about 10 ft away from me, physically. furthermore, the s10.3 replaced a energy 8" sub that was set at around 12 ft by audyssey. i ran audyssey auto setup 3x and the results are quite similar at 25ft.

yes, i followed the directions of setting audyssey from the audyssey thread found here. during setup, i had the sub turned 'on', phase at 0, xover at 'off' (b position). the volume control knob was adjusted a bit lower than halfway so that audyssey set db at or close to 0.

help, am i missing something or is audyssey auto setting correct. i feel that the bass response is a bit weaker than the energy esw-hg 8" i replaced. any comment is greatly appreciated.

Answered in the 2309 thread where you first posted.

jdsmoothie on 04/05/09:

There is an update on Uverse ATT box on Digital Audio Output. You can now get 5.1 over HDMI. From Menu screen look under Audio/Language Options. This update should also correct audio drop out.

Thanks. Now let's hope the OP who owns the ATT Uverse box has figured that out as well.

I'm sorry if the solution to my problem has been posted already. If so, if you could give me the thread # I'd appreciate.

I've been battling the power switch off problem for some time now and am turning to you guys with the hopes of an answer. I get the power switch off and flashing red power indicator at 0.5 internals during loud scenes even though the master volume is around -15 dB during loud scenes.

I've added banana plugs to all of the wires to ensure the wires are connected to their terminals.

The speakers I am using are ONKYO HTIB speakers with an impedance of 8 ohms.

Is there a checklist of steps I can take to isolate and correct the problem?

Any guidance is greatly appreciated.

Ensure adequate air flow around the unit...

I have the 1909 model and I just picked up a Def Tech ProSub 8000. I'm quite please with it. I ran Audyssey set-up again and it sounds great!

My question is.... can I plug the subwoofer power cord into the outlet on the back of my 1909 so that it goes on and off with the receiver? I know it seems like a stupid question but I thought there might be the chance of interference or something like that. My other idea was to pick up one of those monster green power surge protectors that saves energy by turning off switched outlets when the "control component" is turned off.

Thanks.

NO. from what I understand, subwoofers draw way too much current, those little switched outlets are not rated for that kind of power usage.

Your sub should have an auto on/off function so it shouldn't matter if it isn't switched with the receiver, it will kick on once the sound starts and turn itself off after a few minutes of idling.

Hmm... That is what I suspected. My sub does have an auto on/off feature, but I guess I don't fully trust it. I worry about phantom power and such.

Thanks for your advice.

I guess it is time for me to shop for a decent surge protector. I am considering dropping a bit of money for a decent one from monster with the stage 2 filtering since I am getting a little bit of hum/hiss from my components. Any advice?

Thanks again.

I have the Monster HTS 3600 MKII. It has switched outlets that can be triggered on or off by either a 12 volt trigger (which the 1909 does not have) or the power outlet on the back of the receiver. It does not draw a significant amount of power from the outlet, it just uses it as a signal to turn the outlets on/off. One note though, you would need HDMI control turned off in the 1909 for this to work.

Also, I don't think the filtering will remove the hum/hiss. The isolated power blocks in the unit might help. I think it does have a grounding peg on the back, finding a good ground might help as well.

I posed this question in the sub forum and those in the know there seemed to like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Panamax-M-2C-O.../dp/B00006JPWS as a good choice for a sub that will be located away from your main surge supressor.

Thanks for the tip HellerBrewing and BeckMule. BeckMule, unfortunately my subwoofer is located on my main surge protector. The room layout kinda dictates that.

Hellerbrewing, Your link for the HTS 3600 MKII actually goes to a Samsung TV but I easily found the correct one with a quick search. I was actually looking at a model a few steps down from the HTS 3600 MKII since I am poor. The one I am looking at is the Monster HTS 1000 MKIII or the Monster HTS 950 8 With the first one being on sale right now, it seems like the obvious choice.

I guess my question is this. If I am not spending enough money to get something like the HTS 3600 MKII, am I just wasting my money?

I personally own and HIGHLY recommend this unit:

http://www.amazon.com/APC-H15-Theate.../dp/B000AHVGA6

A power indicator flashing "red" at 0.5 sec intervals (as opposed to 2 sec intervals indicating a protection circuit issue) generally means that there is either an impedance issue with the speakers (eg. biwiring) or possibly speaker wires are crossing somewhere.

I've got an issue that I think is a bit different from the typical "taming the bass" problem. I have noticed that, uniformly, during baseball games (alright, I'll admit it, Cubs games) the Dolby Digital soundtrack sends a very significant amount of booming bass to my speakers - including during commercials. This only occurs while using the DD soundtrack; switching to the 2-channel input and using Dolby PL IIz sounds great (thanks for that suggestion jd).

Through experimentation, I have learned that this has NOTHING to do with the subwoofer. In fact, it still happens even when I turn the subwoofer channel off and keep the fronts (Aperion 5T's) set to "small." So basically I'm getting a lot of boomy bass coming from my "small" fronts. It doesn't seem to matter whether I am using Audyssey regular or flat, although it does seem to help if I use "matrix."

Any explanations as to why this might be happening? I'm assuming this is an Audyssey issue.

Thank you. I am looking into it. It seems like great quality, but it is still a bit out of my price range. I see that it was at $100 a few months ago on amazon. That would be in my price range so perhaps I will just keep watching for another price drop.