New DVDO EDGE !! - Page 217

Then I believe your display must be telling the DVDO (and anybody else that is connected to it) that it is a 1080p display. I've never understood why 720p displays do this, but they often them seem to do so. You can still get 720p projectors, but actual 720p displays are rare. Often they are 1366x768, and perhaps this causes them to claim they are 1080p.

EDIT: I just read a previous post that said essentially the same thing...sorry.

How do you tell the DVDO to output 36-bits? All I see is an option for 30 or 36-bit True Color, but my projector loses its picture when I turn it on. My projector accepts 36-bits, and if I leave the True Color setting to 'Auto', I get 36-bit output...but I don't know how to turn on or off more than 24-bit output.

I'm using the most recent firmware, by the way.

Menu-settings-advanced controls-output deep color. Manually select 36bit and hit ok. If your projector accepts it, it will display a picture.

I force the Edge to output 720p. You're right, when I had the output set for "auto," it output 1080p. But I changed to 720p because when I used the Edge test patterns, the horizontal lines test did not show the lines properly on my panel. They only show up when the Edge output is set to 720p.

Even though I have a pro plasma, it is a 37", and its output is 1040x720, not 1366x768. So when I force the Edge to output 720p, it is giving the panel its native resolution -- although I have to adjust the overscan, because 1040x720 is not true 16:9. In fact, having these capabilities is one of the main reasons I got the Edge.

Edit: As a side note, I find it curious that the Edge "auto" setting returned 1080p from the panel. These monitors use a separate HDMI card, which is HDMI 1.2a, not HDMI 1.3. And according to the specs for the card, it won't pass through 1080p; it only goes as high as 1080i. So the panel should not have been returning 1080p in the first place. Go figure...

Hyrax, see my reply to Pia-chan.

I have the TY-FB10HMD Dual HDMI board, which can pass 1080p to an 11 Series 720p display. But you are right, 10 Series and earlier 720p displays are supposed to max out at 1080i input through this board.

Of course, I wish that the EDGE would output 1366 x 768, but Josh explained a long time ago why it doesn't. I'm 'graduating' to a 1080p panel soon anyway, so it won't matter (for me).

Don't get rid of your Panny pro monitor. Put it in its box (if you still have it) and store it. I think they are one of the best made. The Metropolitan has two 37" 8 series in their lobby, putting out video 7 days a week, probably 14-16 hours a day. They've been doing this for at least five years, and they're still going strong, still look great. That's what pushed me to the 10 series that was still available. I even bought a spare.

Not a chance. It will be put into storage (in the original packaging) next to its older brother, a 42" 8 Series.

The odd thing is that if I set Deep Color to 'Auto', it outputs a fine picture, and the information panel tells me it is 36-bit. If I try to set Deep COlor to 36-bit, I get no picture. If I set Deep Color 'Off', the info panel tells me it is 24-bit. Is deep color the only method for sending 36-bit data to the projector?

So I was leaving it at 'Auto'. However, I have noticed that about once ever half an hour I get an extremely fast flicker on my screen if I use anything except 'Off' for Deep Color. By fast, I mean it is almost to fast to notice. Sometimes it is a horizontal, single pixel, line that is only there for a 60th of a second. Sometimes it is a larger area that resembles a HDMI sync problem - and it again lasts a 60th of a second. Problem goes away if i turn off deep color.

I'm trying to decide if this could be a problem with the Edge's 36-bit Deep Color output, or my projector's input. I tend to think it is the Edge, but I'm not sure how I'd know for sure.

Strange why it works on auto but not forced manual. I have read that cable quality and length can effect deep color. What length run do you have?

Thanks! Good point. I have an 8 meter HDMI cable connected to a HDMI Active Equalizer Extender Repeater, followed by a very short HDMI cable to the projector. The extender supposedly allows me to have HDMI runs up to 100', however I reread the specs and it doesn't seem to support Deep Color. I'll replace it and if that doesn't work, I'll replace the HDMI cable. I've actually been thinking of replacing my HDMI cables with an HDMI over Cat6 extender anyway.

Sounds like you found the culprit.

8 meters, lets see, that converts to 45 inkel moms/fort-nite.. divide by 3.1416... oh you mean 26 feet! I would keep it simple and toss the hyper active extender repeater thingy and get a single decent Monoprice 50 ft HDMI cable for $50 or $60 bucks. Works with my Edge to JVC projector, your mileage may vary.

Has anyone experience where connecting a projector just refuses to accept anything from the Edge?

I am replacing my Epson 6100 with the 8350, which is a newer model of the same PJ, but when connected to the Edge nothing will display at all. I verified the line works by bypassing the Edge and connecting my Xbox 360 and it worked fine.

I have yet to run across something that the Edge refuses to work with at all - until now.

very unusual. I use the 8350 with the Edge and the picture is awesome; especially after turning the brightness control down. I used the Edge with Panasonic as well with no problem. I would try to connect the edge to a tv as well to see if it outputs

I've changed projectors frequently and the only time I ever got absolutely nothing was when the HDMI connector became lose (I don't want to mention the time I connected the projector to the wrong HDMI output...). If you press 'Guide' on your remote, the Edge goes into a default settings mode that every projector should be able to handle. If you see nothing when you press 'Guide' then I believe something is wrong physically. Your Edge may have completely died, a cable problem, something like that.

It may not have anything to do with your problem, but as was discussed above, my Edge is suddenly much more sensitive about requiring Deep Color compatible cables with my new projector.

I switch between the PJ and a small LCD when I don't want to fire everything up and the Edge still works perfectly with the LCD. So I know the Edge outputs and the HDMI cable works fine. No luck with the Guide button and even re-did the firmware just to make sure.

I guess this is why you should always test the connection before mounting something new on the ceiling.

Hyrax - Did anything come of your cable issue? My run includes a 50' cable and two shorter cables on each end. Of course never had an issue until this swap today.

After messing around with everything for another hour or so I tried another factory reset on the edge (this time using the menu instead of the button, which apparently did nothing) and everything started working. Of course this was after overnighting an hdmi amplifier thinking it might have to do with the distance of the run.

Sorry I was away for a couple of days and missed this question. I'm still trying to figure out if I'm going to replace my cable or get a better HDMI amp. I really like the idea of using HDMI->Ethernet->HDMI systems because it is so much easier to run Ethernet wires. I lived without Deep Color for years, the projector looks fine with 24-bit output from the Edge, so I'm taking my time trying to decide.

Which Amp did you buy? With a 50 foot run it is probably a good idea to use it.

Not sure if you'd even call it an amp, but it is a Tripp-lite HDMI Extender B122-000. It says it supports up to 150' so I guess if nothing else it can't really hurt things.

This is the first time in 2 years I've had any problems with this run, but I do know when I had it running through a regular HDMI switch before getting the Edge that it would have trouble sending a picture that didn't cut out every few seconds.

I've never really messed with any of the deep color options or anything else since the documentation on the details of the features is kind of lacking and I didn't want to go turning on a bunch of things and having the picture get worse.

The Edge has Deep Color turned to 'Auto' by default. If your projector supports Deep COlor, it will therefore be turned on. This was causing occasional dropouts, apparently because of my cable. So I have had to specifically turn off Deep Color until I get a cable that can handle it. I wonder if the 'Auto' setting was causing you problems as well.

I have a question for you guys. For 4:3 SD content on a 16:9 screen, how much better would the Edge be compared to most HDTVs in stretching the 4:3 image to fill a 16:9 screen?

Goosey-
They both destroy the picture (this is probably sounding snob-ish, didn't mean it that way). If you're going to be doing a lot of that, I'd not bother using an Edge. Some TVs may do a better job than the Edge, but the edge does a very good job scaling 4:3 DVDs to my screen and I suspect it will do a good stretch as well. . I believe the Edge has a non-linear stretch that you can access from the OSD, but not directly from the remote - I've never used it. Also note that there are an increasing number of 4:3 SD cable/dish stations that are digital and cannot be stretched on many TVs.

I use this extensively. It does a much better job, as long as you use the Panorama settinng, which is not available as a button. You have to go into Settings>aspect to turn it on (but see the NB note below). My plasma monitor has a similar feature called Just. What they both do is stretch the sides more than the middle; that way faces in the center of the screen still look normal. Zippers at the bottom of the screen look a bit strange, because the letters are farther apart at the sides than they are at the center.

Viewing in Panorama means what it says. If the camera is panning from side to side, you see a bigger scan effect than you do in the normal 4:3 -- something like an extreme wide-angle lens. But I find this acceptable.

Even though my monitor on Just is good enough for some things, I much prefer the Panorama setting on the Edge. It has better metrics. The reason it is hard to access is that trying to invoke it with an HDMI signal coming off a BD player will distort the image or render it unviewable. They have made the feature hard to access deliberately, I believe.

NB: This works best with component, S-video, or CV inputs. If you're only using HDMI, I suggest you find a way to run a component cable from your BD player and/or your set-top box. That way you can use the alternate routing if you want to expand a 4:3 image, and stick with HDMI for 16:9 images.

Frankly, I hate any distortion and prefer to just leave it in 4:3. However, we have a plasma (i.e., burn-in potential) and if watching many consecutive hours of 4:3 programming; my preference is to "zoom" for a full screen picture. I would rather tolerate loss of what is normally "non essential" picture that put up with distortions. The edge does a great job of maintaining a good picture while zooming.

Hello,

I was wondering if anyone here has SUCESSFULLY used an Edge unit specifically to split a Blu-Ray 3D input signal via HDMI to separate 3D video passed to a display and separate audio to a non-3D compatible AVR via the Edge unit's HDMI outputs.

Thanks!

Works fine for 3D input from the PS3. Audio goes to a Integra 9.8 (non-3D compatible pre/pro) and video to a Panasonic vt25. Also works fine for 3D input from my DVR/HR24 (although that isn't Blu Ray).

Now, as I understand it, the PS3 uses a somewhat unique process for 3D; so there might be some risk about the results being applicable to another component. However, the Integra 9.8 definitely would not take HDMI 3D input direct from either of the above components and give me any results.

Thanks for the input...the PS3 is what I have also, although I will probably upgrade to an Oppo BDP-93 since the PS3 doesn't support hd-audio during 3D Blu-Ray playback. Anyone else have experience with other 3D Blu-Ray players???

I just got my hands on a CD changer that includes both coax/toslink digital audio outputs. Remembering that firmware v1.50 was supposed to include support for audio-only sources, I got excited...

I'm running firmware 1.50 (never took the time to go to 1.51 or 1.6), and have tried connecting the CD player's toslink output to input 1 and then input 3, but no matter what I try it does not auto-switch to the CD player when it starts playing.

I have checked the input priority settings, and have manually switched to the proper input and told that input to use the proper digital toslink input for audio. WHen manually selecting the input the audio comes through just fine. When set to auto-input-switcher mode however, no luck.

Has anyone used this feature?

thanks!
..dane

Haven't used the feature, but as I recall from the 1.5 manual supplement, you have to use a dedicated input with no video input to use the audio-only feature. So you could use, say, HDMI 5 with no video and set it to use optical or coax out. I don't think the switching is automatic, though. I think you still have to select the input manually. (But I haven't even bothered with trying the input priority feature.)

Once you select the input, assuming you haven't changed any of its parameters, then the audio will be routed the way you want. What they changed from previous versions is the fact that if there was no video input, there would be no audio output at all (except from the HDMI audio-only output).

I do switch back and forth between toslink and HDMI audio on my Blue-Ray player often. Sometimes, if I'm just watching a documentary with people talking, I don't feel like using the fancy audio, and just want to route the audio through the TV speakers via HDMI. I have to make that change manually in the audio settings every time. When I put the audio on Auto Select it never works, so I don't even bother trying anymore.

Hope this helps. Someone else may have more experience with your exact situation. And go to the DVDO site and download all the manual supplements. (there isn't one for 1.6). They have a lot of useful update information.