I thought I would update everyone on my power supply research..
Quote:
Originally Posted by
audiodane 
CINCON ELECTRONICS CO, LTD
PN: CFM60S050
INPUT: 100-240V~
1.4A, 47-63Hz
OUTPUT: 5Vdc/8A
LEVEL 3
Quick google reveals that
Mouser has 134pcs on-hand for $35+sh in small qty.
Well, how frustrating. The cincon part is only rated to 25% of its max power rating at 70C. For anyone whose DVDO Edge is always on because of a persistent input signal like a Tivo or DVR, you know the DVDO gets pretty hot over time, especially if its in a rack.
Anyhoo, I hooked up the DVDO to my bench power supply (with a current meter) and also went through my Fluke 189 in current mode (as a second opinion), and the highest current mode I could muster between 480i, 1080i, 1080p24, and 1080p60 input (output always set to 1080p60) was in 1080p60 mode coming from my Oppo BDP80. PReP was enabled in that mode which may have been that last little bit of power needed. In that mode (1080p60 input, 1080p60 output), the power draw was right at 2.5A at 5VDC, or, just under 15W.
Looking on Mouser, Jameco, Newark, Digikey, and a few other places, it turns out there is a better AND cheaper power supply out there, the Mean Well
EPS-45-5. It's a 45W power supply, but before you get all huffy and puffy, note that in the part's datasheet the derating curve is on a 10% derating per 10degC above 40C. That puts it at 50% rated max at 70C. The original Cincon part
CFM60S050 derates at 25% per 10C rise above 40C! That means that by 70C it's only rated at 25% of its original power rating!
AND the EPS-45-5 part is about $10 LESS expensive! That means the Cincon part is rated only at 2A @ 70C, while the Mean Well part is rated at 3A @ 70C. And my tests clearly indicate that the DVDO operates at 2.5A while PReP'ing 1080p60 content from a 1080p24 source destined for a 1080p60 downstream display device. (There was nearly zero change in current when adding an audio-only output load to my AVR)
But... the better power supply has different connectors. And with different connectors come different contacts (pins). And with different connectors and different contacts come either a lot of headache (pliers and wire strippers and soldering iron) or a *very* expensive crimp tool.
IF it wasn't approaching Christmas, and IF I had a spare DVDO available to handle it while I did the work on the other, I would be ALL OVER that Mean Well 45W booger. It's such a better power supply-- (slightly) more typical efficiency, and better temperature derating. Alas, I don't have time with the holidays approaching to undergo that kind of surgery. There goes the "better for less money" option..

Back to Mouser--- Turns out if you look a little ways down, there is a Medical rated version of the Cincon part..
CFM60M050 .. costs about $10 more than the already pricier CFM60S050 part (compared to the Mean Well), but it has a slightly better derating curve than the "S" family. It is still 25% per 10degC that doesn't start until 50C instead of 40C. That gives you another 10C headroom in a hot equipment rack before the part approaches its inability to deliver the necessary current. Still not as good as the Mean Well power supply, but there's no worrying about connectors and crimp pins.
So, I've ordered one of the medical versions of the cincon part.
I've wanted for a while now to get one of those "energy saving" power strips and connect it to my TV so when the TV's off, the DVDO is turned off, but the TV is on the other side of the room-- the DVDO is in an equipment rack in a closet under the stairs. Grrr... I've been trying very hard to figure out a way to hook something like that up without going and designing something myself, but it looks like I'll have to do JUST that. Now that my DVDO Edge's power supply bit the dust (which I'm sure was due in no small part to the power supply overheating in the cramped equipment rack due to never getting a "break" but instead being on 24/7 for the past three years), I think it will be worth my while to create a remotely-controlled smart power strip. I have some ideas, just nothing CHEAP..

I will come back and report more after I get the new power supply in the mail..
EDIT1-- it looks like the medical version has a swapped pinout-- I will verify when I receive it. If that's the case I will detail the very simple instructions how to swap pins on the connector for others that may go the medical supply route..EDIT2-- I failed to take pictures, I'm sorry. The pin order is actually identical between the two models. The difference is that they use a different type of connector lock that has a plastic "tab" on the one side of the standard product, and the other side of the medical product. (To be clear, some would say it is a rotated connector, and to be fair, it is. But it's a rotated connector with a swapped pinout, so the net result is that the "power" pin is in the same physical location in relation to the power supply board itself, but the "plastic tab" that the other connector uses is now on the opposite side of the connector housing.) Anyway, all I ended up doing was taking a very sharp knife (exacto blade or box cutters) and cutting off the tab. Pin spacing is the same, old cable fits on new prongs just fine. I actually ended up making myself a new power connector because I happened to have that molex connector in stock and the terminals and the crimp tool. I did not have the right terminals and crimper on-hand for the Mean Well power supply, however. sigh. My old power cable was very stiff and brittle from whatever had happened to the old power supply, which is why I had to make a new one. Anyway, trimming off the header tab from the power supply PCB (both the input power header and the output power header) worked just fine.. Careful with forcing an extremely sharp blade through tough molded plastic, though- a quick slip and off goes your head! (or thumb) --> Just be sure the cable you hookup is connecting to "+5V" on the large, green, DVDO video board and to "+Vout (or Vo+ or something like that) on the power supply board. Likewise, "GND" on the DVDO circuit board should connect to the "Vo-" or "-Vout" on the power supply board.
cheers,
..dane
Edited by audiodane - 1/7/13 at 11:10am