The Official Pioneer 9G Kuro Settings/Issues Thread - Page 349

amen

I look at a 70"Sharp Elite LED LCD at BB and the sale man was telling this man it was Pioneer Elite,and I had to say isn't that a Sharp,it only say Elite on the TV.My Pioneer Elite PRO 151 9G with D-Nice setting look 10X better than 70" Sharp Elite LED LCD TV.

Agreed. I happen to see a 70 Sharp the other day. It doesn't even come close to my 151.

But didn't Pioneer partner with Sharp to develop this TV?

No offense, I have the 151FD in my HT and love it. But the Sharp 80" has me wondering... if I should move the 151FD into the bedroom, and put the 80" in the HT.

Only if size is more important than quality

If something approaches the quality of my 141, in a larger size - I'd go for it. This one is not even close.

I know, I know, I was joking on that 80"-er. I am going to CES in a few weeks, and I don't expect to be impressed by any screen tech.

There is a procedure to reset the black levels on the Kuro if you are game enough to try.

Check the Kuro Red Tint thread.

KURO black is back on my set!


It can give the Sharp Elite a good run when measuring the MLL. Not bad for a TV designed back in 2008 eh?

I'm a kuro 5090H (european) owner. I got an oppo 93 and just wondering if it's better to use qdeo or skip it using source direct?
And what about color space and deep color? Any feedback from oppo owners will be really appreciated, thanks

Why not ask your questions in the OPPO 93 owner's thread?

I use the OPPO 93 (HDMI1/QDEO) for all video processing with our Kuro. Our home theater was calibrated by UMR (Jeff Meier). You can read about his work in post number two of the link at the bottom of my post.

Simple question regarding setting brightness on my 5020FD...

When I have a blank (black) signal in a dark room I notice that when I set the brightness to +1, there is dot crawl/shimmering. When I take it down just one value to 0 it disappears and the screen is jet black with no dot crawl. Is this where I should have it?

I ask because I did the service menu tweaks with control cal a couple years ago. I've since moved with the tv and had unplugged many times and not even sure if it defaulted back. But 0 and -1 look the same to me.. it's only when I'm at +1 the screen brightens with dot crawl. I figure by taking it down to -1 I may be loosing detail so I've kept it at 0.

The same goes for Contrast. On my Disney Wow disc I notice white clipping beginning at 41. 40 and below doesn't clip detail. Does this mean I should leave it at 40? I've been using 38 all along but bumping it to 40 seemed to nothing detrimental to the tests. Perhaps I should meet in the middle with 39? Ah I'm so confused.. but mainly because I'm anal about these things.

What do you think?

Well I think I have the basics down as far as using ControlCAL. Did not know I had to "donate" to get the 111 profile, just waiting to get my email back. The tv was unlocked by the previous owner, I'm just trying to see what the settings were. Hopefully everything is set to the d-nice settings and I don't have to touch a thing.

Has anybody had their 151FD re-calibrated? My 151FD was a store demo so I could not execute the break-in DVD that D-Nice recommended. I may be wrong but I would think that eventually (say after 5000 hours) that the set would converge to a similar state as to one that initially used the break-in DVD that also has 5000 hours on it. I did use the ISF-Night and ISF-Day settings that D-Nice recommended in his October 24, 2008 post. I know that the break-in DVD is supposed to stabilize the set before it is calibrated but now that these sets have been used for a few years I would be curious to know if these initial settings are still the optimum. If anybody has had their 151FD re-calibrated I would be interested in knowing what the resultant settings ended up being. Thanks.

D-Nice, did you get around to doing whatever it was you had planned? Were the results good?

Played with ControlCAL. Had the TV on the input I was using while entering my settings, do the inputs in ControlCAL save just day night or for the input the TVs in?

Look for HT Waits posts and his links to such reviews. My 151FD was calibrated by UMR and it was great!

Have I got a link for you!

Use the one at the bottom of my post and got to the second page. You'll find links to calibration reports for flat panel displays organized by manufacturer, model, and the calibrators AVS screen names.


If you get your display calibrated, disregard these thoughts that you are having.

Knowing other people's settings will not benefit you in any way.

Enjoy you display.

How is everyone feel about the day and night settings? To me it looks like the night settings have a more natural look, while the day settings have that "lcd'ish" pop. Both look fantastic, I'll have to see how the night settings fare during the day.

i noticed no diference from isf night, to isf day, so my set was only calibrated in night setting

My ISF Night is what I use for movies in a dark setting, my ISF Day was calibrated for a brighter picture to overcome reflections, with the shadows opened up a bit. For TV viewing and gaming, I usually use ISF Auto.

The templates from which ISF-Night and ISF-Day are constructed are exactly the same. The only differences are the changes you make during calibrations. If you set every parameter to the same value in both, they both will (should) look identical.

I may have mis-worded my initial post, I was referring to the d-nice isf day/night settings.

Oh, Ok... sorry, I can't help you there. Speculating, I think he gave the day setting a little more luminance, to compensate for the ambient light vs. using in a dark(er) room... at night. Just guessing, but my suspicions are that the other parameters are pretty much the same. Maybe a twiddle or so on the color, to compensate for accuracy with changes in brightness/contrast.

I calibrated my 141 for day/night and the the only real differences were contrast & brightness - both pushed up a tad in day. I think I bumped the RH a notch, to keep greyscale in line, but I don't remember. I find I almost never change from night, though. That's more because I'm just being lazy

My BD player clips above white signals in YCbCr color space. It can output RGB in an 'enhanced' mode to give more signal range. I wonder if this will pass above white. Does anyone know if the 151 has a preferred HDMI input mode? Does it care if the signal is YCbCr or RGB?

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So is it safe to say, 16-235 is labeled "Limited" on the ps3?

At this point I'm a bit confused on what the 111 supports? lol

Same with the 360, with the 360 it is either standard, expanded etc, not quite sure what that translates to.

Replace it with a properly functioning player.

I did some long sessions using controlcal on my kuro 5090h and now I have noticed image retention due to controlcal OSD (I didn't disable it...). I have orbiter set to 2 but I'm unsure orbiter has effect on this kind of OSD.
Is there any chance it can be burn-in? It's noticeable with a white background. I run procedure several times and pionwas too for several hours but so far I didn't fix it. Any advise would be great. Just to be sure it cannot be burn-in...Thanks