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The Official Pioneer 9G Kuro Settings/Issues Thread - Page 352

post #10531 of 10755
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dust Bubble View Post

Hey Guys,

I just purchased a Pioneer Elite 151 with less than 3,000 hours and in mint condition. I've been watching it now for about a month and have noticed the picture seems slightly blurry and pixel looking compared to my Panasonic V10. The black are incredibly dark compared to the V10 but the sharpness just doesn’t seem to be there. Do you think this is something that can be fixed or is it possible something is wrong with the panel. I was thinking about getting it calibrated but don’t know if that’s the right thing to do either. If I do get it calibrated who would you guys recommend as I live in Calgary Alberta Canada.

Thanks in advance
Brett.
You provided zero information about the source material that you're watching, settings and what and how your display is connected. Also it would help to know how far you're sitting from the screen.

You can check the link that's located in the signature area of my post for information about calibrators who work in your area. You can also send a PM to "turbe" for calibrator information.
post #10532 of 10755
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dust Bubble View Post

I was thinking about getting it calibrated but don’t know if that’s the right thing to do either. If I do get it calibrated who would you guys recommend as I live in Calgary Alberta Canada.
Thanks in advance
Brett.

Actually, I suggest you get a Calibrator from this List for the Pioneers.


.
post #10533 of 10755
smile.gif
post #10534 of 10755
Thanks for the list, I noticed 2 guys from my area Michael Chen and Jeff Davis who do you recommend?
post #10535 of 10755
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dust Bubble View Post

Thanks for the list, I noticed 2 guys from my area Michael Chen and Jeff Davis who do you recommend?
I've read good things about Michael Chen (Michael TLV at AVS), and he has a good reputation here at AVS. You can read some of his reviews from owners that are linked in the signature area at the bottom of my post. You can also do a search on "Michael Chen" in the display devices forum.

I don't recall Jeff Davis. Maybe he also has an AVS user name.
Edited by htwaits - 8/31/12 at 2:25pm
post #10536 of 10755
I have owned the 6020 since it came out and had it calibrated. To this day the TV stills has me in awe . I recently bought a 5010 off some one who had the power failure problem and just didnt want to deal with it getting fixed. I got the tv fixed and the tv is mint. My question should I still get it calibrated or is it just not worth it. The only problem that I am having is some blu ray movies look like crap on the tv. With the settings I am using which D-nice put up way back when. My question is it my blu ray player or does the tv need to be calibrated to match my blu ray player. Before I got the 5010, I had the 4280 and the blu rays look nice on it using the blu ray player I am using now with the 5010. Any advice would be helpful.
post #10537 of 10755
Quote:
Originally Posted by info_dan View Post

The difference i can see between the PC input and the other ones is that PC data is already in RGB format. The other formats are encoded in some way (HDMI is usually YUV). If there is an intermediary frame buffer in which these formats are decoded in RGB, then I believe you could get these kind of stripes if a memory chip of that frame buffer went bad.

If you have access to a PS3, or a pc with HDMI output (or DVI with a DVI=>HDMI adapter), I'd be curious to see what the image is when you set the HDMI input type to RGB instead of YUV (You probably cannot change the output format of your blu-ray players, right?). If the stripes diseappear, it would go a long way to confirm this theory. If it does not, then it does not prove that much, the intermediary frame buffer might always be used for HDMI inputs.

My 0.02....

Dan.

Hi Dan

 

I promised to update you. I have connected an RGB source via HDMI to the Kuro and you were right - the stripes are no longer there and the picture is perfect. What I need to do now is to see if I can identify the part required to fix the problem. Google has not helped so far and of course professional TV repair guys aren't going to help me fix the problem myself, so it make take some time to track down the board I need. Thanks for your help in identifying the problem - if the set is fed RGB it works just fine.

post #10538 of 10755
This may have been discussed elsewhere but has anyone found a detailed description of what the advanced picture adjustments such as intelligent mode, cti, dre, black level, acl, enhancer mode etc ... ?
post #10539 of 10755
Quote:
Originally Posted by gunhed View Post

This may have been discussed elsewhere but has anyone found a detailed description of what the advanced picture adjustments such as intelligent mode, cti, dre, black level, acl, enhancer mode etc ... ?

Yes, in the operating instructions. starting around page 56....

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/Manuals/Home/PRO-151FD_OperatingInstructions0905.pdf
post #10540 of 10755
Can someone explain what exactly does the pure cinema setting smooth does? It seems from this post, nothing-

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1124457/curiousity-flicker-and-default-grayscale-in-standard-mode-at-1080p-24-on-5020fd/240#post_16445764

But im very sensitive to the settings and i can easily tell when it's on or off. From what i observed, smooth is not like standard or advanced where the whole image takes a light soap opera effect. It's more for camera pans. I noticed when there is a hard pan smooth handles it VERY smoothly. It's a weird look. Everything else looks like normal 60hz video.

I never seen anybody talk about smooth being used for this. Maby some don't notice it like i do. It works on broadcast, im using verizon fios, and BD's.

EDIT- That link looks to be for the non elites. But the elite settings are the same- http://www.avsforum.com/t/1053444/the-official-pioneer-9g-kuro-settings-issues-thread/6810#post_16989774
Edited by saprano - 10/8/12 at 11:57am
post #10541 of 10755
post #10542 of 10755
And should a 151FD be fed a 24Hz video or a 60Hz video?

There are two devices I can set this way, and right now both are 24Hz video.
post #10543 of 10755
See which looks best to you.
post #10544 of 10755
Can't see much of a difference. So what does the TV like best?
post #10545 of 10755
I didn't see much of a difference when watching BD, but broadcast cable didn't like it being on.

My setup utilizes my receiver as the switcher, with one HDMI out to the display, I utilize the same display input for both BD and cable.

So since there wasn't a noticeable difference for BD with it on or off, and the fact that I didn't want to keep switching back and forth (on or off) dependant on material, I left it off.
post #10546 of 10755
I have one HDMI out to the TV, as well, from my receiver (AVR), but the AVR does not have a 24/60 setting. I can set the HTPC that way, or a streamer box (soon to be unhooked, as the PC does a lot more).

If I set the HTPC to 60Hz, my video player loves it (Splash Pro EX), but the BD player does not (PowerDVD 12 Ultra). The latter asks if I wish to change the resolution, so I leave the TV on 24Hz and then I don't see that.

One thing about this is the LG BD unit has the latest firmware, and PowerDVD plays any BD. My old Sony BD unit (now in another room) does not. Still, I am using Splash 10 to 1 over PowerDVD (I have a lot of file storage). If the trend continues, I will no longer use PowerDVD, and then a 60Hz setting may stay.
post #10547 of 10755
Hi there,

I am new to the forum as well new to the Kuro. I just bought me a used Pioneer KRP-500M,
It looked fantastic and was only used for 420 hours. One thing though i have noticed that there is one purple stuck
pixel on it and another one flashing. Has anyone experienced this and did it unstuck it self later on?
I have tried flashing the screen from youtube videos and also the JscreenFix but that didnt work.
Any advise would be highly appreciated!
post #10548 of 10755
I have a 6020FD, and I'm getting ready to calibrate (again).

To set the proper Color/Tint levels, is there a "Show Blue Content Only" Factory Service Screen I can use with my AVS HD 709 test pattern disk?

I'm trying to avoid looking through one of my two blue plastic filters (which are slightly different, and give different results).

Thanks,

AzJazz
Edited by AzJazz - 10/11/12 at 1:24am
post #10549 of 10755
I've got a display model KRP 500M that has around 300 hours for it, would it make any sense to run the d-nice break-in slides to use his reference settings as a starting point now? Or would that be a complete waste of time?
post #10550 of 10755
No, using D-Nice break-in settings need to utilized with the display fresh out of the box, and follow the directions to a "T" so that the phosphers aged the way D-Nice aged the phosphors. This is the only chance you'd have of chieving anything similar to the results that D-Nice achieved when he performed the calibration with his listed settings.

Since this is not the case, it will be a crap shoot.

Your best options are:
  • have it professionally calibrated
  • buy the gear yourself, learn about calibration, and try your hand at fully calibrating it yourself.
  • buy a calibration disk to set the black & white levels, color & tint.

-Best,
John

Congratulations on your purchase by the way.
post #10551 of 10755
Thanks a lot for replying., saved me some time lol!

I've got DVE:HD Basics blu-ray disc and I've played with the Kuro 9G settings for a few years so I have a decent idea about doing a basic calibration for it.

There are no professional calibrators where I live so that's out of the question (I live in Bahrain), I plan to get some good calibration gear one day and split the cost with my friend who also has a Kuro so I'd calibrate all of our displays, but for the time being, other than my DVE HD Basic, are there any patterns (freeware or not) that I should be looking at to get a more accurate calibration without having any tools?
post #10552 of 10755
Quote:
Originally Posted by metallicaband View Post

Thanks a lot for replying., saved me some time lol!
I've got DVE:HD Basics blu-ray disc and I've played with the Kuro 9G settings for a few years so I have a decent idea about doing a basic calibration for it.
There are no professional calibrators where I live so that's out of the question (I live in Bahrain), I plan to get some good calibration gear one day and split the cost with my friend who also has a Kuro so I'd calibrate all of our displays, but for the time being, other than my DVE HD Basic, are there any patterns (freeware or not) that I should be looking at to get a more accurate calibration without having any tools?

Well, without a meter, software and a laptop, it's near impossible to properly set grayscale, and each color primary. DVE Basics should be enough, as I said before to set black level, contract, and basic color & tint. You could try an use the grayscale ramp, to determine how far out your grayscale is, and possible touch the white balance controls to eliminate color contamination, but that is extremely difficult without the proper equipment.
post #10553 of 10755
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsskid View Post

Well, without a meter, software and a laptop, it's near impossible to properly set grayscale, and each color primary. DVE Basics should be enough, as I said before to set black level, contract, and basic color & tint. You could try an use the grayscale ramp, to determine how far out your grayscale is, and possible touch the white balance controls to eliminate color contamination, but that is extremely difficult without the proper equipment.

Thanks again for replying, I've already bothered you enough with my questions but would you mind telling me what kind of gear would be enough to do a 80%-90% accurate calibrations? I don't need 100% or 99% accuracy rates as I assume those will require very expensive gear and I'm still a total beginner at this, just the absolute essential hardware/software to achieve pretty accurate calibrations without spending a fortune.
post #10554 of 10755
Quote:
Originally Posted by metallicaband View Post

Thanks again for replying, I've already bothered you enough with my questions but would you mind telling me what kind of gear would be enough to do a 80%-90% accurate calibrations? I don't need 100% or 99% accuracy rates as I assume those will require very expensive gear and I'm still a total beginner at this, just the absolute essential hardware/software to achieve pretty accurate calibrations without spending a fortune.

If you can find a used i1 pro rev D, some ave found them for around $250 on , use your Dve Hd disc, or download the free pattern disc from AVS, download HFCR software (free), or buy calman or chroma pure beginner, and a laptop, that would be an economical start. Then look up Calibration For Dummies, do a lot of reading, ask questions, and practice.
post #10555 of 10755
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsskid View Post

No, using D-Nice break-in settings need to utilized with the display fresh out of the box, and follow the directions to a "T" so that the phosphers aged the way D-Nice aged the phosphors. This is the only chance you'd have of chieving anything similar to the results that D-Nice achieved when he performed the calibration with his listed settings.
Since this is not the case, it will be a crap shoot.
Your best options are:
  • have it professionally calibrated
  • buy the gear yourself, learn about calibration, and try your hand at fully calibrating it yourself.
  • buy a calibration disk to set the black & white levels, color & tint.
-Best,
John
Congratulations on your purchase by the way.

Well, this crapshoot you speak of was in my favor as i never followed the break in procedure 100% and im using these old settings for pure and movie mode. They look absolutely fantastic on my 151. Pure is even more natural than before with a hint of coolness. Movie mode is very warm.
post #10556 of 10755
Good, I'm glad you're happy with them.

From D-Nice's instructions in the first page of this thread....
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

*****Note: This procedure is designed to be performed only during the first 150 hours of the display's lifespan. This procedure is designed to equally and evenly age all pixels and ensure the reference settings listed below provide maximum satisfaction. This procedure is NOT designed nor recommended to be used as Image Retention and/or Burn-in prevention. If a setting is not listed in the settings below, please leave it at its default value*****
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

Pioneer KRP-500M Pure Mode Reference Settings (ONLY use these settings after the 150 hour break-in period!!!!!!!!!)

He has been pretty explicit on his instructions many times,

Again, if you are satisfied with the results after not following his instructions, great.
post #10557 of 10755
Yes im happy with them. You didn't need to post all that. I know how it works. Im just saying on my display his settings look fine.
post #10558 of 10755
Sorry, I misinterpreted your tone"
post #10559 of 10755
Quote:
Originally Posted by AzJazz View Post

I have a 6020FD, and I'm getting ready to calibrate (again).
To set the proper Color/Tint levels, is there a "Show Blue Content Only" Factory Service Screen I can use with my AVS HD 709 test pattern disk?
I'm trying to avoid looking through one of my two blue plastic filters (which are slightly different, and give different results).
Thanks,
AzJazz

Ummm ... Any help? Pretty please? confused.gif
post #10560 of 10755
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsskid View Post

Sorry, I misinterpreted your tone"

Tone from words? lol. It's cool.

@AzJazz

Are you asking if the 6020 has a built in blue screen???????????
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