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The Official Pioneer 9G Kuro Settings/Issues Thread - Page 354

post #10591 of 10771
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonyboy View Post

Yes you do sir!! Hurry! biggrin.gif

I was looking at the controlcal forum and it seems a little confusing getting it setup.
post #10592 of 10771
Quote:
Originally Posted by saprano View Post

I was looking at the controlcal forum and it seems a little confusing getting it setup.

Make contact with Turbe when you decide to do it . He walked me through the install and made it very smooth to install. Without him I would have been lost.
post #10593 of 10771
Quote:
Originally Posted by saprano View Post

I was looking at the controlcal forum and it seems a little confusing getting it setup.

It's a piece of cake, but yes Turbe is very helpful. Great little piece of software imo
post #10594 of 10771
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonyboy View Post

Make contact with Turbe when you decide to do it . He walked me through the install and made it very smooth to install. Without him I would have been lost.

He walked you through it over the phone?

I'm going to try it myself first following the instructions on the site. If i get stuck i'll contact him. The thing that confuses me is that the controlcal site has links into links of instructions of how to set it up. It's not really in any order.

Going to check if my laptop has the right serial port.
post #10595 of 10771
When I first used it, I found printing out each link first, and having them all in front of me, was easier than trying to open links while you're calibrating.
post #10596 of 10771
I might do that.

It says the Female DB9 serial cable has to be configured. Does that mean i can't buy any cable? i have to buy it from CC?
post #10597 of 10771
Some have had luck with Rat Shack, some not. I bought mine from Turbe of Control Cal.
post #10598 of 10771
Quote:
Originally Posted by saprano View Post

He walked you through it over the phone?

I'm going to try it myself first following the instructions on the site. If i get stuck i'll contact him. The thing that confuses me is that the controlcal site has links into links of instructions of how to set it up. It's not really in any order.

Going to check if my laptop has the right serial port.

I have in the past called to help, sometimes it's needed to get a user on the right footing... smile.gif

feel free to PM / email me with any questions but I'll pm you some now
post #10599 of 10771
Hello everyone,

I recently bought a KRP-500m from a local seller in Los Angeles. I activated the ISF modes and am attempting to calibrate them. I bought an Eye One Pro spectrophotometer and I am using ColorHCFR software.

I got brightness, contrast and the grayscale to be pretty much perfect. Now, however, I am having trouble adjusting the color and CMS. Can any of you give me some advice on how to get the color points as close to perfect as they can be?

I have no idea how to use the CMS controls. I played around with them and I got some changes, but not really substantial improvements overall.

What kind of Delta E errors should I be shooting for? The colors that are off the most seem to be blue and magenta.

I am getting red with a delta E of 1.5, green with a delta E of 3.0 and blue with a delta E of 6.5 to 7.

As for the secondaries, I can get both yellow and cyan to have delta E's under 2 but magenta is WAY off, usually with a delta E of 9 or 10. There seems to be almost NOTHING I can do to get the delta E on magenta under 8.


I want to know how calibrators like D-Nice are able to get their color points so close? What type of results should I be able to expect on a KRP-500m?

Is it more important to have delta E errors that are roughly equal or is it more important that certain colors are accurate at the expense of others?


Can you clue me in on what results I can achieve and what the best method is to set the color points? I am sure there is some secret or quirk in these displays that I am missing to get the color closer.


Second, I am a bit confused on the gamma. I was trying for a higher gamma at night, like 2.4 instead of 2.2. I want to see how that would look. However, I don't really know how to adjust the gamma. As it is, I have a pretty flat 2.2 gamma but I wanted to change it to see if a slightly higher setting would be beneficial in a dark environment. But how do I do it?

It probably involves the "ISF gamma" controls, but I have no idea how to use them. Could you help me out here? I was under the impression that a KRP-500m could be calibrated to produce a flat gamma line pretty much anywhere from 2.2 to 2.5. I want to compare the different target gammas and see which looks best in different lighting conditions.


I would really appreciate if someone could help me here. Thanks.
post #10600 of 10771
Hi guys, I have a 141, and all of a sudden, HDMI input 6 stopped working. When it's selected, even when there is an input signal like Blu Ray or Cable, it says that there isn't one. I switched to HDMI input 7, and it works. Do you guys have any idea how to fix this? Thanks!
post #10601 of 10771
Quote:
Originally Posted by caunyd View Post

Hi guys, I have a 141, and all of a sudden, HDMI input 6 stopped working. When it's selected, even when there is an input signal like Blu Ray or Cable, it says that there isn't one. I switched to HDMI input 7, and it works. Do you guys have any idea how to fix this? Thanks!
If you have tried different sources & cables unfortunately it sounds like you may have a faulty main board (HDMI board).
post #10602 of 10771
Jano, well if I have a faulty main board (HDMI board), then why does Input 7 which is HDMI still work? Input 6, which is HDMI, worked just fine, and all of a sudden, it just stopped working. Can you think of any other possible causes and maybe solution to this problem?
post #10603 of 10771
caunyd, please test and report on the status of HDMI inputs 5, 6, 7 and 8. I'll tell you why after you provide the information. But Jano18 is probably correct that you will need a new main board (HDMI connectors are soldered on the main board).

Dan.
post #10604 of 10771
Jano and Dan, thanks for your help. As I was checking the other inputs as Dan told me to, the darnedest thing happened and Input 6 started working again. So I'm happy. You guys rock.

But what you were you going to tell me Dan? I'm curious just for knowledge's sake.
post #10605 of 10771
Hi fellas,
It's been a long time since I really dug into this thread. I purchased my 151 and 111 back in 08/09. At that time D-Nice had some nice VERY nice , I guess basic, settings that one could use to get more picture out of there set than with the presets. Also I purchased Turbe's software and got the ISF stuff open to use D-Nice settings. I had set if and definitely had forget it and just went through these years of enjoying my sets. Can't believe after all these years this set still amazes me like the first day I bought it. The depth, biggrin.gif
But like I said I've come back to the thread and maybe read the few last posts but really haven't dug into it. So basically I just wanted to know were there any goodies, Easter Eggs, "WOW I just found out..."'s, press this magic setting button and be seated when you do it, and kinda of updates in the last 5 years I might have missed out on.

Thanks for any help guys.
Also, if anyone is willing to buy a used 151 and 111 then.... don't ask me! LOL Couldn't be happier with my purchases.
post #10606 of 10771
Quote:
Originally Posted by totalownership View Post

Also, if anyone is willing to buy a used 151 and 111 then.... don't ask me! LOL Couldn't be happier with my purchases.
Why not have D-Nice or UMR calibrate your Kuros. That would give you some WoW. smile.gif
post #10607 of 10771
Quote:
Originally Posted by caunyd View Post

Hi guys, I have a 141, and all of a sudden, HDMI input 6 stopped working. When it's selected, even when there is an input signal like Blu Ray or Cable, it says that there isn't one. I switched to HDMI input 7, and it works. Do you guys have any idea how to fix this? Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by caunyd View Post

Jano and Dan, thanks for your help. As I was checking the other inputs as Dan told me to, the darnedest thing happened and Input 6 started working again. So I'm happy. You guys rock.

But what you were you going to tell me Dan? I'm curious just for knowledge's sake.

My request was two-folds:

1) inputs 5 & 6 go to one mux (multiplexer) chip, and inputs 7 & 8 go to another mux chip. The output of each goes to the main chip. With 6 not working, and 7 working, I was wondering on the status of 5 and 8. That could have helped pinpoint the possible location of a failed component. But I preferred not to give the knowledge beforehand, to avoid any possibility of it tainting the answers. (this knowledge comes from the diagrams in the service manual, but can be clearly seen in the right side of this photo of the 141FD main board)

2) By making you double check the status, there was always the possibility of it "starting to work" again, for many possible reasons. Looks like this was the winner....

When your input stopped working, did you try to disconnect and reconnect in the same input, or did you simply move straight to 7 and posted your question? With time, contacts can oxidize and cause issues. Re-seating the connector sometimes does wonder in the high speed digital world, as you seem to have observed.

Dan.
post #10608 of 10771
Calibration Report

D-Nice calibrated my made in February 2009 151-FD. Black level in ISF-Night is 0.0002 (at least I hope I read that correctly).

He listed a few Reference movies, I watched The Matrix - wow!

BTW, with nothing playing, the only way to tell the set is on, is the blue LED.
Edited by jmmesch - 4/15/13 at 11:56pm
post #10609 of 10771
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmmesch View Post

Calibration Report

D-Nice calibrated my made in February 2009 151-FD. Black level in ISF-Night is 0.0002 (at least I hope I read that correctly).
Thanks for your calibration report. It's been a while since the last 151 report. I've included a link to your report in the flat panel (post number 2) lists that are linked in the signature area at the bottom of my post.

How long have you owned your Elite Kuro?

Enjoy. smile.gif
post #10610 of 10771
The 151-FD was acquired in April 2009 from Pioneer after my 2007 150-FD went dead w/in warranty.
post #10611 of 10771
About those 0.0002 and such numbers that are related to black level, what type of adjustments one has to do to tweak it? Whether via controlcal or the display's picture settings, what are the main things that will effect it (e.g Gamma?)

Sorry for the random question, just curious about the calibration process since there's no professionals around me to get it done.
post #10612 of 10771
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmmesch View Post

The 151-FD was acquired in April 2009 from Pioneer after my 2007 150-FD went dead w/in warranty.
You're good for a long time. wink.gif
post #10613 of 10771
Quote:
Originally Posted by metallicaband View Post

About those 0.0002 and such numbers that are related to black level, what type of adjustments one has to do to tweak it? Whether via controlcal or the display's picture settings, what are the main things that will effect it (e.g Gamma?)

Sorry for the random question, just curious about the calibration process since there's no professionals around me to get it done.
Those adjustments are proprietary, and D-Nice is the only person I'm aware of who applies them. You'll need to make an appointment with D-Nice if you want it done.
post #10614 of 10771
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

You're good for a long time. wink.gif

I hope so. The 151-FD is almost a year older than the 150-FD lasted.
post #10615 of 10771
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmmesch View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

You're good for a long time. wink.gif

I hope so. The 151-FD is almost a year older than the 150-FD lasted.
Our 6010 is at 5.5 years now. The odds are with you at this point, but I know how you feel. I'm not excited about anything I could replace ours with.
post #10616 of 10771
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Our 6010 is at 5.5 years now. The odds are with you at this point, but I know how you feel. I'm not excited about anything I could replace ours with.
At this point if something happened to my Kuro that couldn't be fixed such as the panel itself, I would replace it with another Kuro.
post #10617 of 10771
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jano18 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Our 6010 is at 5.5 years now. The odds are with you at this point, but I know how you feel. I'm not excited about anything I could replace ours with.
At this point if something happened to my Kuro that couldn't be fixed such as the panel itself, I would replace it with another Kuro.
Me too if there was one in good condition, close by, and up and running. smile.gif

I'm always amazed when someone with a 151 gets bored and "just wants something new".
post #10618 of 10771
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Me too if there was one in good condition, close by, and up and running. smile.gif

I'm always amazed when someone with a 151 gets bored and "just wants something new".
Me too, I could only justify it if you had to have a panel larger than 60" &/or 3D. I am content with 60" although 70" would be nice. I also have minimal interest in 3D at this point. Maybe once reference quality, glasses free 3D panels are available I might reconsider.

I usually change or upgrade my gear yearly, but for the past four years one thing I haven't changed has been my Kuro.
post #10619 of 10771
I am not giving up on on the 151 until it dies. Keep 3D, I cannot watch it due to very different myopia/astigmatism prescriptions in my eyes.

As for Smart TV, I have an HTPC HDMI into the AVR that feeds the 151. It is the BD player, and movie player, and streamer all in one,
post #10620 of 10771
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Why not have D-Nice or UMR calibrate your Kuros. That would give you some WoW. smile.gif
At the moment D-Nice/UMR money eludes me and will be eluding me for quite a while. Money flow ain't quite what it used to be.
Gotta wait for these companies to get out of their fake "The financial world is going to end" mode.
Overtime etc all dried up. They act like if two Snicker bars fall out the vending machine at one time they'll have to file Chapter 11 before the candy hits the tray.

But I was just wondering if there were any new developments since my last visit.
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